97 - 97 JEEP Wrangler TJ CURT Trailer Brake Controller 7-Way Upgrade Kit 7WK1579CURT$185.85In Stock
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| Material | Blank |
| Mount Type Description | Blank |
| Output Type | 4-Way Flat |
| Side Application Type Description | Blank |
| T-Connector Location | S5,S7 |
| Warranty | One-Year Limited Warranty |
| Electrical System Type | 2W |
| Finish | N/A |
CURT offers a variety of high-quality trailer hitches and accessories for select vehicle models. Find the perfect fit for your towing needs at TowUniverse.
CURT, a Lippert brand, offers a complete line of towing products and is the leading manufacturer of custom-fit trailer hitches. We offer the broadest selection of custom-fit hitches, and each one is designed, welded, and coated in Wisconsin.
CURT is also a leader in flat towing products, as well as 5th wheel, gooseneck, and weight distribution hitches, ball mounts, electrical components, cargo solutions, and other towing accessories.
For everything from passenger cars and vans to full-size pickups and SUVs, CURT is 'The First Name in Towing Products®.'
Experts available to answer your questions
Call 888-634-94941 compatible vehicles
| Year | Make & Model | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| 1998 - 2006 | Jeep Wrangler | TJ |
Yes, the 98 - 06 JEEP Wrangler TJ CURT Trailer Brake Controller 7-Way Upgrade Kit 7WK1578 (Part #7WK1578) is designed to fit the 1998-2006 Jeep Wrangler.
The 98 - 06 JEEP Wrangler TJ CURT Trailer Brake Controller 7-Way Upgrade Kit 7WK1578 (Part #7WK1578) fits 1998-2006 Jeep Wrangler models. The 2006 model year is the last year covered by this part number. For newer models, check for an updated version.
The 98 - 06 JEEP Wrangler TJ CURT Trailer Brake Controller 7-Way Upgrade Kit 7WK1578 (Part #7WK1578) fits the following vehicles: 1998-2006 Jeep Wrangler. Always verify your specific year, make, and model before ordering.
The 98 - 06 JEEP Wrangler TJ CURT Trailer Brake Controller 7-Way Upgrade Kit 7WK1578 (Part #7WK1578) Refer to the included instructions for installation details. Basic hand tools are typically all you need.
The kit includes: one 30 amp auto-resetting circuit breaker, two #10 ring terminals, two 3/8" ring terminals, two 1/2" ring terminals, three 12-10 gauge butt connectors, 10 feet of 10 ga black/white duplex wire, 20 feet of 10 ga blue cross-linked wire, and eight 8.5" cable ties.
Yes, but with a critical difference: these vehicles require the stop signal wire to be spliced to the light green wire on the turn signal harness connector under the dash, not to the brake pedal switch. Do NOT connect to the red wire with green stripe, as serious damage may occur. All other vehicles connect to the brake pedal switch instead.
You will need: a test light, wire stripper/cutter, crimp tool, and 3/8" box end wrench. The test light is used to identify the cold (switched) side of the brake pedal switch.
Yes. The manual cautions to disconnect the tow vehicle's negative battery cable before installation. Reconnect it only in the final step after all wiring is complete.
Mount the 30 amp circuit breaker near the tow vehicle's positive battery terminal. This keeps the power wire run as short as possible and protects the circuit.
Use 10 gauge (10 ga) black wire from the duplex wire included in the kit. Strip 3/8" of insulation from each end. Crimp a #10 ring terminal to the end that attaches to the circuit breaker stud labeled 'BAT', and a 3/8" or 1/2" ring terminal (sized to fit your battery terminal) to the end that attaches to the positive battery terminal.
Feed the 10 ga duplex wire from the brake controller in the cockpit through the firewall into the engine compartment toward the battery. Cut to length as needed. At the battery end, crimp a 3/8" or 1/2" ring terminal to the white wire and a #10 ring terminal to the black wire. Attach the black wire to the circuit breaker stud labeled 'AUX' and tighten the nut with a 3/8" box end wrench.
When passing the duplex wire through the firewall into the engine compartment, use an existing grommet, add a new grommet, or fill the hole with silicone rubber to insulate and protect the wire. The same protection applies when passing the blue cross-linked wire through any sheet metal at the rear of the vehicle.
In the cockpit, attach the black duplex wire to the brake controller's battery wire (typically black) and the white duplex wire to the brake controller's ground wire (typically white). Use either one of the supplied yellow butt connectors or solder the leads together and insulate with heat shrink tubing.
Locate the brake pedal switch on the back side of the vehicle's brake pedal. Use a test light or volt meter to identify the 'cold' or switched side—this terminal will only show power when the brake pedal is depressed. Attach the stop signal wire (typically red) from the brake controller to the cold side of the switch using a wire tap.
Locate the semi-circle turn signal harness connector on the steering column under the dash. It has two rows of wires: a row of four and a row of seven. Attach the stop signal wire (typically red) from the brake controller to the light green wire using a wire tap. Do NOT connect to the red wire with green stripe, as serious damage may occur.
Feed the 10 ga blue cross-linked wire from the brake controller to the trailer connector at the rear of the vehicle, taking up any slack in the wire. When passing through any sheet metal, use an existing grommet, add a new grommet, or fill the hole with silicone rubber to protect the wire.
Attach the blue cross-linked wire to the brake controller's electric brake wire (typically blue) using one of the supplied yellow butt connectors or by soldering and insulating with heat shrink tubing. At the rear of the vehicle, trim any loose blue wire and attach it to the trailer connector's electric brake terminal. Refer to the trailer connector's wiring diagram for the correct terminal location.
Secure any loose wires with the cable ties provided. Connect the black power wire from the circuit breaker to the positive side of the battery. Connect the white ground wire from the brake controller to the negative side of the battery. Finally, reconnect the tow vehicle's negative battery cable to the battery.
The circuit breaker is 30 amps and auto-resetting. It must be mounted near the positive battery terminal and connected directly to the positive battery terminal via the included black 10 gauge wire.
Use a 3/8" box end wrench to tighten the nuts on the circuit breaker studs labeled 'BAT' and 'AUX'.
The kit includes 10 feet of 10 gauge black/white duplex wire for the battery and brake controller connections, and 20 feet of 10 gauge blue cross-linked wire for the electric brake signal to the trailer connector.
Black wire connects to the positive battery and circuit breaker. White wire connects to the brake controller ground and negative battery. Red wire is the stop signal wire from the brake controller. Blue wire is the electric brake signal wire. The manual notes these are 'typically' these colours but recommends confirming with your brake controller documentation.
Yes. You can solder the leads together and insulate with heat shrink tubing as an alternative to using the supplied yellow butt connectors. This applies to connections between the duplex wire and the brake controller wires, and between the blue cross-linked wire and the brake controller.
The black power wire must connect directly to the positive battery terminal via the 30 amp circuit breaker. Connecting to the fuse panel or any other accessory wiring may damage vehicle wiring and cause trailer brake failure. The circuit breaker protects the circuit and must be the only protection between the battery and the brake control system.
Do NOT connect the stop signal wire to the red wire with green stripe on the turn signal harness. Serious damage may occur. Connect only to the light green wire. Also, do not connect to the brake pedal switch on these vehicles; use the turn signal harness instead.
The kit is universal but requires an existing trailer connector and brake controller. 1989-1991 Ford E & F-Series with ABS use a different stop signal connection (turn signal harness instead of brake pedal switch). Consult your brake controller documentation for compatibility.
No drilling is required. The kit connects to existing components: the battery, brake controller, brake pedal switch (or turn signal harness on 1989-1991 Ford E & F-Series with ABS), and trailer connector.
Do NOT connect the stop signal wire to the red wire with green stripe on the turn signal harness—serious damage may occur. Connect to the light green wire instead, and do not use the brake pedal switch.
Connecting to the fuse panel or accessory wiring may damage vehicle wiring and cause trailer brake failure. The 30 amp circuit breaker must be the only protection between the battery and the brake control system.
Yes, the 55363 custom wiring harness is designed for Jeep Wrangler and Jeep TJ (Canada) models. It is a vehicle-specific harness that connects to the existing taillight wiring connectors located behind the rear bumper covers on both driver and passenger sides.
The 55363 is compatible with Jeep TJ (Canada) models. For other TJ variants or model years, check your vehicle owner's manual or contact the vehicle manufacturer to confirm compatibility.
The Curt 55363 custom wiring harness fits Jeep Wrangler and Jeep TJ (Canada) models. For other vehicles or model years, check your vehicle owner's manual or contact the vehicle manufacturer.
You will need a panel trim removal tool to remove the black plastic covers protecting the vehicle wiring harness at the rear bumper corners. The harness includes a provided screw and ring terminal for the ground wire, and cable ties for securing loose wires.
Yes, a panel trim removal tool is required to remove the trim fasteners securing the black plastic covers at the rear bumper corners.
The manual does not specify whether battery disconnection is required. Check your vehicle owner's manual or contact the vehicle manufacturer for guidance on electrical work safety procedures.
The vehicle taillight wiring harness connectors are located behind the black plastic covers at the rear bumper corners on both the driver and passenger sides. Remove the two trim fasteners securing each cover to access the connectors.
Remove the foam tape from the vehicle connectors and separate them carefully without damaging the locking tabs. Insert the custom wiring harness end with the yellow wire between the separated connectors on the driver side, ensuring the connectors are fully inserted with locking tabs in place. Repeat on the passenger side using the harness end with the green wire.
The yellow wire end connects to the driver-side taillight wiring harness connectors, and the green wire end connects to the passenger-side taillight wiring harness connectors. Route each end to its corresponding side of the vehicle.
Drilling is optional. You must locate a suitable grounding point near the driver-side connector, such as an existing screw with nut in the vehicle frame. If no suitable existing screw is available, you may drill a 3/32" pilot hole for the provided screw. The area must be free of rust, dirt and paint. Always check for hidden items before drilling to avoid damage and personal injury.
Drilling is not required if an existing screw with nut is available in the vehicle frame near the driver-side connector for the ground wire. If no existing screw is suitable, you may drill a 3/32" pilot hole.
If drilling is necessary, drill a 3/32" pilot hole for the provided ground wire screw. The area must be free of rust, dirt and paint. Always check for hidden items before drilling to avoid damage and personal injury.
The manual does not provide a torque specification for the ground wire screw. Consult the vehicle manufacturer or a qualified installer for the appropriate torque value.
When in use, route the 4-flat connector to the center of the vehicle and out of the trunk. When not in use, roll up the harness and store it in a convenient, out-of-the-way location inside the trunk. Secure any loose wires with the provided cable ties.
The white wire is the ground wire. Secure it using the ring terminal and provided screw to a suitable grounding point near the driver-side connector, such as an existing screw with nut in the vehicle frame or a 3/32" pilot hole you drill.
The manual states that you must not exceed the product rating or the tow vehicle lamp load rating, whichever is lower. Exceeding the rating can cause loss of warranty, overheating and potential fire. The specific product rating is not provided in the manual; contact the manufacturer for this specification.
No. Do not exceed the product rating or tow vehicle lamp load rating, whichever is lower. Exceeding the rating can cause loss of warranty, overheating and potential fire.
Before drilling, check for miscellaneous items that may be hidden behind or under any surface to avoid damage and personal injury. The grounding area should be free of rust, dirt and paint.
All steps must be followed to ensure the wiring harness functions properly. Once installed, test for proper function by using a test light or connecting a properly wired trailer.
Test for proper function by using a test light or connecting a properly wired trailer. Ensure all connectors are fully inserted with locking tabs in place and the ground wire is securely fastened.
Install the provided 4-flat dust cover to help prevent corrosion. This is done as part of the final reinstallation step after all other components are in place.
1. Remove the black plastic covers at both rear bumper corners. 2. Separate the vehicle taillight connectors on the driver side. 3. Insert the harness end with yellow wire between the separated connectors. 4. Route the harness end with green wire to the passenger side and repeat steps 2-3. 5. Secure the white ground wire to a suitable grounding point. 6. Route the 4-flat connector and secure loose wires with cable ties. 7. Reinstall all removed items and install the 4-flat dust cover.
Verify that all steps have been followed correctly. Check that: (1) the custom wiring harness connectors are fully inserted with locking tabs in place on both driver and passenger sides, (2) the white ground wire is securely fastened to a suitable grounding point, (3) the correct harness ends (yellow for driver side, green for passenger side) are connected to their respective sides, and (4) all loose wires are secured with cable ties. Test using a test light or properly wired trailer.
The 4-way flat electrical adapter converts a vehicle's 4-way flat trailer connector to other trailer connector types (6-way round, 7-way RV blade, or dual 4-way flat). This allows you to tow trailers with different connector styles. Single-output models (57184, 57183, 57185, 57626, 57676) convert to one connector type; dual-output models (57604, 57624, 57672, 57674, 57102) provide two different connector outputs simultaneously.
Yes. Your vehicle must be equipped with a 4-way flat trailer connector. If your vehicle does not have one, you will need to install a custom wiring harness or other 4-way flat trailer connector before installing this adapter.
Both convert a 4-way flat connector to a 7-way RV blade. The difference is that 57185 includes a mounting bracket, while 57184 does not.
Both convert a 4-way flat connector to a 6-way round. The difference is that 57626 includes a mounting bracket, while 57183 does not.
Curt offers three dual-output models that provide both a 4-way flat and a 7-way RV blade output: part numbers 57672, 57674, and 57102. All three include a mounting bracket.
Curt offers two dual-output models that provide both a 4-way flat and a 6-way round output: part numbers 57604 and 57624. Both include a mounting bracket.
You will need: a 1/8" drill bit, drill, Phillips screwdriver, wire stripper, cutting tool, terminal crimpers, and a test light. The manual also lists three self-tapping screws (#10 - 1/2") as required, though these are not included with the product.
No. The three self-tapping screws (#10 - 1/2") used to attach the mounting bracket are not included and must be purchased separately.
Mount the combination harness in a location on the tow vehicle that is within reach of the trailer's wiring harness and near the center of the vehicle. The mounting bracket (if included) should be attached to the vehicle's bumper or other suitable surface.
Yes. You must drill two 1/8" holes: one for the grounding point and one (or more) for the mounting bracket. Before drilling, you must check for brake lines, fuel lines, wiring and other components that may be hidden behind or under the surface to avoid damage.
No. You must never attach the mounting bracket directly to the hitch by cutting, welding or drilling into the hitch. Mount it to the vehicle's bumper or other suitable surface instead.
The adapter uses four wires: Yellow (auxiliary or back-up lights), Blue (electric brakes), Black (positive power with appropriate inline fuse), and White (ground). All wires except black and white must be connected using 12 gauge (minimum) wire and butt connectors to the appropriate vehicle functions.
The white wire is the ground connection. It must be attached with a ring terminal to a 1/8" hole drilled in a suitable grounding point on the vehicle using a #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screw. This ground connection is required for the harness to work properly. The white wire on the vehicle's 4-way flat connector does not support the ground (-) functions of the combination harness.
Yes. The black wire (positive power) must be connected with an appropriate inline fuse. The manual does not specify the fuse amperage rating.
Use 12 gauge (minimum) wire for all connections. The manual specifies this minimum gauge for the remaining wires (yellow, blue, and black) when connecting to appropriate vehicle functions.
Failing to properly ground the product can cause loss of warranty, overheating and potential fire. The white wire must be securely attached to a clean grounding point using a #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screw in a 1/8" hole. The area must be clean of dirt, debris or undercoating.
Before drilling, you must check for brake lines, fuel lines, wiring and any other components that may be hidden behind or under the surface. Drilling into these components can cause damage and personal injury.
Do not exceed the product rating or the tow vehicle lamp load rating, whichever is lower. Exceeding either rating can cause damage or unsafe operation.
Confirm proper function with a test light or by using a properly functioning trailer. This verifies that all connections are working correctly before towing.
Secure any loose wires using cable ties or equivalent product to prevent them from moving, catching on components, or becoming damaged.
Your vehicle must have a 4-way flat trailer connector. If it does not, you will need to install a custom wiring harness or other 4-way flat connector first. Check the part number table to confirm the adapter converts to the connector type you need.
You must purchase three #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screws for the mounting bracket. You will also need an appropriate inline fuse for the black (positive power) wire; the manual does not specify the amperage.
Yes, you must drill two 1/8" holes: one for grounding and one for the mounting bracket. Before drilling, check for brake lines, fuel lines and wiring behind the surface. Never drill into the hitch.
Yellow = auxiliary/back-up lights; Blue = electric brakes; Black = positive power (needs inline fuse); White = ground (must be properly grounded or warranty is void and fire risk exists). Use 12 gauge minimum wire and butt connectors.
Proper grounding of the white wire is critical. Failing to ground it properly can cause loss of warranty, overheating and fire. The grounding point must be clean of dirt, debris and undercoating.
Test with a test light or by using a properly functioning trailer to confirm all connections work. Secure loose wires with cable ties.
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