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LoadLifter 5000 Leaf Spring Leveling Kit.
Air Lift adjustable air helper springs level your load, and give your truck, van, or SUV a safer, more comfortable ride. Air springs are easy to install between your existing springs and the vehicle frame. Just add air when towing or hauling a heavy load, and reduce air pressure when unloaded, they are fully adjustable for a great ride. Air Lift air springs eliminate sag, sway, and bottoming out. They are made with rugged, durable components for long, reliable service. LoadLifter 5000 kits are Air Lift's heaviest-rated kits for hauling or towing heavy loads. They have up to 5,000 pounds of leveling capacity, right up to the manufacturer's recommended Gross Vehicle Weight Rating, and are air adjustable from 5 to 100 PSI. LoadLifter 5000 kits fit such popular vehicles as ton and one-ton pickup trucks, many Class A, B & C motor homes, and commercial trucks and other severe uses. They also come standard with a limited lifetime warranty and an exclusive 60 day ride satisfaction guarantee.

Air Lift Company has developed dependable air spring suspension products since our inception in 1949. Our original product, a rubber air spring inserted into a car’s factory coil spring, was created and patented in 1950. We’ve come a long way since 1949 and are proud to be a dedicated suspension specialist company.
Today, Air Lift load support products are sold worldwide and are engineered to fit over 540 vehicles. Our extensive product line offers air helper springs for trucks, RVs, SUVs, CUVs, and vans, as well as the most technologically advanced on-board air compressor systems for on-the-go air spring control.
Air Lift leads the industry in no-drill applications – kits that bolt onto your vehicle’s frame, speeding the installation process. Our teams work constantly to bring innovative products to you and upgrade existing products with the latest technology.
All of our efforts are spent ensuring your safety and comfort by designing, engineering, and manufacturing the highest quality suspension products. We are a family-owned business based in Lansing, Michigan, and make your family and cargo’s safety our top priority.
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4 compatible vehicles
| Year | Make & Model | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| 1999, 2001 - 2004 | Ford F-250 Super Duty | Does not fit cab & chassis applications |
| 2000 | Ford F-250 Super Duty | Will not fit cab & chassis applications |
| 1999 - 2002, 2004 | Ford F-350 Super Duty | Does not fit cab & chassis applications |
| 2003 | Ford F-350 Super Duty | Will not fit cab & chassis applications |
The Air Lift LOADLIFTER 5000 57390 (Part #BBCG57390) fits 2000 Ford F-250 Super Duty models. The 2003 model year is the last year covered by this part number. For newer models, check for an updated version.
The Air Lift LOADLIFTER 5000 57390 (Part #BBCG57390) fits the following vehicles: 2000 Ford F-250 Super Duty; 2003 Ford F-350 Super Duty. Always verify your specific year, make, and model before ordering.
Yes, the Air Lift LOADLIFTER 5000 57390 (Part #BBCG57390) is designed to fit the 2000 Ford F-250 Super Duty.
The Air Lift LOADLIFTER 5000 57390 (Part #BBCG57390) Refer to the included instructions for installation details. Basic hand tools are typically all you need.
Yes. Kits 57390 and 88390 are designed for 1999-2004 Ford F-250 and F-350 Super Duty 4WD vehicles with single or dual rear wheels. The kit does not alter the vehicle's GVWR or payload, so you must still comply with the manufacturer's weight limits.
The standard LoadLifter 5000 (kit 57390) has zinc-plated silver roll plates and air springs without a jounce bumper. The LoadLifter 5000 Ultimate (kit 88390) has black powder-coated roll plates and includes an internal jounce bumper in the air springs. Both provide up to 5,000 pounds of load-leveling support with air adjustability from 5–100 PSI.
Required tools include: standard and metric open-end or box wrenches, adjustable wrench, ratchet with 3/8", 9/16", and 1/2" deep well sockets, 5/16" (8mm) sharp drill bits, standard hex keys, die grinder, hacksaw, heavy duty drill, torque wrench, standard/metric/SAE sockets and wrenches, hose cutter or sharp knife, hoist or floor jacks, safety stands, safety glasses, air compressor or compressed air source, and a spray bottle with dish soap and water solution.
Yes. The jounce bumpers must be removed from under the frame over the axle as part of the Getting Started procedure. The kit includes spacers (BB or CC) to replace them in the jounce bumper bracket.
Drilling may be required depending on your vehicle's configuration. If you have a fifth-wheel hitch with a bracket plate that does not use the frame slot for attachment, you must drill a 1/2" hole through the plate. Air line Schrader valve installation requires drilling a 5/16" (8mm) hole. Use very sharp drill bits.
Air spring mounting screws: 20 lb.-ft. (27 Nm). Upper bracket to frame (3/8" hardware): 35 lb.-ft. (47 Nm). Upper brace to frame (1/2" or 3/4" hardware): 44 lb.-ft. (60 Nm). Axle clamp bar bolts: 16 lb.-ft. (22 Nm). Leaf spring U-bolt nuts: 10 lb.-ft. (13 Nm).
The maximum air pressure is 100 PSI (7 BAR). The minimum recommended pressure is 5 PSI (0.34 BAR). Operating below the minimum pressure voids the Air Lift warranty. Do not exceed your vehicle's GVWR regardless of air spring pressure.
Perform a clearance test at 40–50 PSI, a leak test at 40–50 PSI, a heat test (minimum 6" clearance from heat sources), a fastener torque recheck, a 10-mile road test, and an overnight leak-down test after 24 hours. A 2–4 PSI loss is normal; more than 5 PSI indicates a leak. Recheck the system after 30 days or 500 miles, whichever comes first.
Check air pressure weekly. Always maintain normal ride height. For loaded vehicles (heavy bed load, trailer, or both), maintain at least 25 PSI (1.7 BAR). Never exceed 100 PSI (7 BAR).
The LoadLifter 5000 Series provides up to 5,000 pounds (2,268 kg) of combined load-leveling support. The springs support approximately 40 pounds (18 kg) of load per 1 PSI (0.07 BAR) of pressure across both springs. The actual load support depends on the air pressure and the state of the original suspension.
No. The installation of the LoadLifter 5000 Series does not alter the gross vehicle weight rating (GVWR) or payload of the vehicle. You must check your vehicle's owner's manual and never exceed the maximum load listed for your vehicle. Exceeding the GVWR is dangerous and voids the Air Lift warranty.
Yes, but the installation procedure varies depending on your hitch type. If you have no hitch or a hitch with an "L" bracket forward and behind the axle (leaving the middle frame open), use the standard installation. If your hitch has a bracket plate running alongside the frame, you may need to remove the hitch hardware temporarily and either reuse it or drill a 1/2" hole through the plate. Refer to the Upper Brace Installation section for your specific hitch configuration.
Yes. If your truck has emissions lines running along the inside frame rail on the driver's (left) side, you must carefully move the line holder out of the frame above the axle to create space for the upper brace. The kit includes an L-bracket (part I) to reattach the line holder to the upper brace after installation. You may also need to remove additional line holders forward or rearward of the axle to aid in repositioning.
For dual-rear-wheel (DRW) vehicles, it may be necessary to remove the sway bar bolts and straps holding the sway bar to the axle if they interfere with the air spring assembly's lower bracket. If removed, retain the hardware for reinstallation. If the sway bar straps interfere when reinstalling, you may need to slot the straps before reinstalling them.
Yes. You must disconnect the wiring harness from the driver's (left) side frame rail to gain clearance for the upper brace installation. This is part of the Getting Started procedure.
Yes. To obtain clearance between the upper brace and the emergency brake cable bolt on the inside of the frame, you must remove the bolt and reinsert it through the emergency cable bracket from the outside of the frame. Install a 7/16" spacer (part DD) on the bolt and cap with an M10-1.5 nylon lock nut (part EE). Tighten the hardware securely.
The radiused (rounded) edge of the roll plate (part F) must face toward the air spring so that the air spring is seated inside both roll plates. The roll plates go over the top and bottom of the air spring (part G).
Install the swivel elbow fitting (part GG) into the top of the air spring finger tight plus 1½ turns. Do not over-tighten.
Tighten the 5/16"-18 thin lock nut (part AA) and 5/16" washer (part V) only tight enough so that the cup swivels on the lower bracket main plate. This allows the bracket to move and adjust properly during installation.
Torque the 3/8"-24 x 3/4" flat-head socket cap screws (part HH) that attach the air spring to the lower bracket to no more than 20 lb.-ft. (27 Nm).
For single-rear-wheel (SRW) trucks, use the inside holes. For dual-rear-wheel (DRW) trucks, use the outside holes. The 3/8"-16 x 10" carriage bolts (part P) are positioned based on the truck type.
Push the lower bracket (part B) up against the stock U-bolts so that the flanges are locked into position around the stock U-bolts. The lower bracket flanges must be locked on the front and rear of the stock U-bolts that hold the leaf springs to the axle. It may be necessary to rotate the lower bracket cup (part A) on the jounce bumper strike plate to achieve proper positioning.
Torque the leaf spring U-bolt nuts to 10 lb.-ft. (13 Nm). Once tight, the upper and lower brackets will not be parallel and may look out of alignment. This condition is normal because of the way the lower bracket and upper bracket mounts are designed.
Torque the axle clamp bar bolts to 16 lb.-ft. (22 Nm). Tighten the bolts evenly until the clamp bar touches the axle. Trim the 3/8"-16 x 10" carriage bolts below the nylon lock nuts if necessary.
Torque all 3/8" hardware attaching the upper bracket to the frame to 35 lb.-ft. (47 Nm). This includes the bolts (part O) that connect the upper bracket to the upper brace.
Torque the 1/2" or 3/4" hardware that holds the upper brace (part C) to the frame to 44 lb.-ft. (60 Nm). This is done after the spacers are tight to the bottom of the frame and the braces are tight to the upper bracket.
Two spacer lengths are supplied: BB and CC. Use the spacer that can be inserted where the stock jounce bumper was removed. When butted against the frame, it should be flush (or close to) the bottom of the jounce bumper bracket that is riveted to the frame. If the spacer is too short, use the longer one. If it is too long, use the shorter one. A stock spacer may remain in the jounce bumper bracket and can be left there and reused.
Use zip ties to secure the air line to fixed points along the chassis. Do not pinch or kink the air line. The minimum bend radius for the air line is 1" (25 mm). Leave at least 2" (50 mm) of slack in the air line to allow for any movement that might pull on the air line. Keep at least 6" (150 mm) of clearance between all air lines and the exhaust system. Avoid sharp bends and edges.
Cut the air line in half with clean, square cuts using a razor blade or hose cutter. Do not use scissors or wire cutters, as these will crush the line and create a bad cut. A good cut is straight and clean; a bad cut is jagged or angled.
Choose a location for the Schrader valve and drill a 5/16" (8 mm) hole if necessary. The manual shows three suggested locations: inside the fuel tank filler door (A), inside rear wheel wells (B), or in the license plate or rear bumper area (C). Drill the hole before installing the valve.
Attach the metal heat shield to the exhaust where it is closest to the air spring. Slide the air line thermal sleeve over the air line and place it where the air line is closest to the exhaust. Maintain at least 1/2" (13 mm) of dead air space between the shield and exhaust. Bend the tabs on the shield and use double hose clamps if necessary.
No. Air pressure can be adjusted with any type of compressor as long as it can produce sufficient pressure to service the springs. Even a bicycle tire pump can be used, although it requires significant effort. The kit does not require an on-board compressor system.
The recommended minimum air pressure is 5 PSI (0.34 BAR). The air springs can safely be run at zero air pressure when unladen (no load). However, for loaded vehicles (heavy bed load, trailer, or both), maintain at least 25 PSI (1.7 BAR). Operating below the minimum air spring pressure of 5 PSI voids the Air Lift warranty.
Maintain at least 1/2" (13 mm) clearance from anything that might rub against each air spring sleeve. Check the tire, brakes, frame, shock absorbers and brake cables. Keep at least 6" (150 mm) of clearance between all air lines and the exhaust system. If a heat shield is included in the kit, install it. If there is no heat shield but one is required, contact Air Lift customer service at (800) 248-0892.
Yes, the vehicle can be lifted on a hoist for short-term service work such as tire rotation or oil changes. However, if the vehicle will be on the hoist for a prolonged period of time, support the axle with jack stands to take the tension off of the air springs. When raising the vehicle by the frame for service, make sure the system is at minimum pressure (5 PSI [0.34 BAR]) to reduce tension on the suspension and brake components.
Make sure the air spring system is at minimum pressure (5 PSI [0.34 BAR]) to reduce the tension on the suspension and brake components. Use of on-board leveling systems do not require deflation or disconnection.
If the air springs are properly installed and maintained, they can last indefinitely. Proper maintenance includes checking air pressure weekly, maintaining normal ride height, avoiding exceeding 100 PSI, periodically checking fasteners for tightness, checking for signs of rubbing, and occasionally spraying the air springs with a garden hose to remove mud, sand, gravel or other debris.
Check air pressure weekly. Always maintain normal ride height. Never inflate beyond 100 PSI (7 BAR). Periodically check the air spring system fasteners for tightness and check the air springs for any signs of rubbing; realign if necessary. On occasion, give the air springs a hard spray with a garden hose to remove mud, sand, gravel or other debris. If the system develops an air leak, use a soapy water solution to check all air line connections and the inflation valve core before deflating and removing the air spring.
For loaded vehicles (heavy bed load, trailer, or both), maintain at least 25 PSI (1.7 BAR). The springs support approximately 40 pounds (18 kg) of load per 1 PSI (0.07 BAR) of pressure across both springs. The required air pressure will vary depending on the state of the original suspension. Never exceed your vehicle's GVWR, regardless of air spring pressure or other load assist.
When increasing load, always adjust air pressure to maintain normal ride height. Increase or decrease pressure from the system as necessary to attain normal ride height for optimal ride and handling. Remember that loads carried behind the axle (including tongue loads) require more leveling force (pressure) than those carried directly over the axle. Always add air to springs in small quantities, checking the pressure frequently.
Recheck the air spring system after 30 days or 500 miles (800 km), whichever comes first. If any part shows signs of rubbing or abrasion, identify the source and move it if possible. If it is not possible to relocate the cause of the abrasion, the air spring may need to be remounted. If professionally installed, consult the installer. Check all fasteners for tightness.
Inflate the air spring to 30 PSI (2 BAR). Spray all connections and the inflation valves with a solution of liquid dish soap and water. Spot leaks easily by looking for bubbles in the soapy water. After the test, deflate the springs to the minimum pressure required to restore the system to normal ride height (not lower than 5 PSI [0.34 BAR]). Check the air pressure again after 24 hours. A 2–4 PSI (0.14–0.28 BAR) loss after initial installation is normal. Retest for leaks if the loss is more than 5 PSI (0.34 BAR).
After the vehicle has been used for 24 hours, recheck the air pressure. A 2–4 PSI (0.14–0.28 BAR) loss is normal. If the pressure has dropped more than 5 PSI (0.34 BAR), there is a leak that must be fixed. Either fix the leak yourself or return to the installer for service.
Before road testing, perform a clearance test at 40–50 PSI, a leak test at 40–50 PSI, a heat test (minimum 6" clearance from heat sources), and a fastener torque recheck. Drive the vehicle 10 miles (16 km) and recheck for clearance, loose fasteners and air leaks. Inflate the springs to recommended driving pressures before the road test.
If there is a problem with the swivel fitting: deflate the spring, remove the line by pulling the collar against the fitting and pulling firmly on the air line. Trim 1" (25 mm) off the end of the air line with a clean, square cut (use a razor blade or hose cutter). Reinsert the air line into the push-to-connect fitting. If it still leaks, check the threaded connection by tightening the swivel fitting another half turn. If it still leaks, deflate the air spring, remove the fitting, and re-coat the threads with thread sealant. Reinstall by hand tightening as much as possible and then use a wrench for an additional two turns.
If there is a problem with the inflation valve: check the valve core by tightening it with a valve core tool. If that does not work, check the air line by removing it from the barbed fitting. Cut the air line off a few inches in front of the fitting and use a pair of pliers or vice grips to pull and twist the air line off of the fitting. Do not cut the air line off at the fitting because this could nick the barb and render the fitting useless.
If the system won't maintain pressure overnight, there is likely an improperly installed air line, or the air line has holes or cracks. Leak test the air line connections, the threaded connection into the air spring, and all fittings in the control system. Check to make sure air lines are seated in connectors. Inspect fittings with soapy water. Trim hose or re-seal fitting. Ensure lines are cut straight.
Look for a kink or fold in the air line. Replace any air line that has been kinked. If the problem persists, refer to the leak-fixing procedures or contact Air Lift customer service at (800) 248-0892.
A rough or harsh ride may be due to either too much pressure or not enough pressure. Try different pressures to determine the best ride comfort. Tuning the air pressure comes down to three things: level vehicle, ride comfort, and stability. Stability should be the priority, meaning you may need to sacrifice a perfectly level and comfortable ride.
If the vehicle's headlights are shining into the trees or the vehicle is leaning to one side, it is not level. Raise the air pressure to correct either of these problems and level the vehicle. It may be necessary to maintain different pressures on each side of the vehicle. Loads such as water, fuel, and appliances will cause the vehicle to be heavier on one side. As much as a 50 PSI (3.5 BAR) difference is not uncommon.
If the vehicle rocks and rolls, adjust the air pressure to reduce movement. Stability issues include roll control, bounce, dive during braking and sponginess. Tuning out these problems usually requires an increase in pressure.
If the front of the vehicle dives while braking, increase the pressure in the front air bags, if equipped. Stability should be the priority when tuning air pressure.
If it is ever suspected that the air bags have bottomed out, increase the pressure. Bottoming out indicates that the current pressure is insufficient for the load being carried.
Cause: Improperly installed air line, or air line has holes or cracks. Solution: Leak test the air line connections, the threaded connection into the air spring, and all fittings in the control system. Check to make sure air lines are seated in connectors. Inspect fittings with soapy water. Trim hose or re-seal fitting. Ensure lines are cut straight.
Cause: Kink or fold in the air line. Solution: Replace any air line that has been kinked.
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