Air Lift LoadLifter 5000 ULTIMATE for Half-Ton Vehicles 88268Air LiftOriginal price was $857.99. Current price is $621.99.In Stock
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LoadLifter 5000 ULTIMATE for Half-Ton Vehicles with internal jounce bumper to absorb shock for best ride comfort
Adjustable air spring kit for leaf springs
Rear
No Drill
Safely run w/zero air pressure
LoadLifter 5000 ULTIMATE Heavy Half-Ton adjustable air spring kits feature all of the benefits of our heaviest rated air spring with the addition of an internal jounce bumper inside the spring for the ultimate in ride comfort. An Air Lift exclusive product! Fits vehicles with in-bed hitches. Tow and haul the heaviest loads with safety and comfort with LoadLifter 5000 ULTIMATE Heavy Half-Ton adjustable air spring kits. Works with vehicle's leaf springs to provide your half-ton exceptional rear load leveling capacity and keeps the vehicle riding stable, level and comfortable whether loaded or unloaded. Fully adjustable from 5 to 100 PSI. The closed-cell urethane foam jounce bumper inside the ULTIMATE Heavy Half-Ton adjustable air springs provide a cushion of air that absorbs shock, eliminates harsh jarring on rough roads and protects vehicles carrying heavy loads. Never bottom out again with the ULTIMATE! LoadLifter 5000 ULTIMATE Heavy Half-Ton adjustable air springs are maintenance free! Safely run with zero air pressure because of the internal jounce bumper. Replaces factory jounce bumper that is sometimes removed when adding air springs.
Air Lift Company has developed dependable air spring suspension products since our inception in 1949. Our original product, a rubber air spring inserted into a car’s factory coil spring, was created and patented in 1950. We’ve come a long way since 1949 and are proud to be a dedicated suspension specialist company.
Today, Air Lift load support products are sold worldwide and are engineered to fit over 540 vehicles. Our extensive product line offers air helper springs for trucks, RVs, SUVs, CUVs, and vans, as well as the most technologically advanced on-board air compressor systems for on-the-go air spring control.
Air Lift leads the industry in no-drill applications – kits that bolt onto your vehicle’s frame, speeding the installation process. Our teams work constantly to bring innovative products to you and upgrade existing products with the latest technology.
All of our efforts are spent ensuring your safety and comfort by designing, engineering, and manufacturing the highest quality suspension products. We are a family-owned business based in Lansing, Michigan, and make your family and cargo’s safety our top priority.
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1 compatible vehicles
| Year | Make & Model | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| 2004 - 2014 | Ford F-150 | Excludes Heritage models and does not fit F: 150 Raptor |
The LoadLifter 5000 Ultimate is designed for 3/4-ton and 1-ton pickups and SUVs with leaf springs, including motor home rear applications and various front applications with leaf springs. The kit has different installation procedures for 2004–2008 models and 2009 & up models. Contact Air Lift customer service at (800) 248-0892 to confirm fitment for your specific vehicle.
Required tools include: hoist or floor jacks, 2 safety stands, safety glasses, torque wrench, standard open-end combo wrenches, metric and standard sockets, #6 metric Allen wrench, 7/32 inch Allen wrench, flat head screwdriver, hack saw or grinder, 5/16 inch drill bit (very sharp), heavy duty drill, hose cutter/razor blade/sharp knife, air compressor or compressed air source, and spray bottle with dish soap/water solution.
The manual does not mention battery disconnection as a requirement for this installation.
Yes. You must drill 5/16 inch holes to install the inflation valves. The manual specifies using a very sharp 5/16 inch drill bit and a heavy duty drill. The exact location depends on where you choose to mount the inflation valves (wheel well flanges, license plate recess, under gas cap access door, or through license plate).
Yes. On the right side (passenger's side), the emergency brake cable holder is bolted to a bracket welded to the axle with a self-tapping bolt. This bolt must be cut off and/or ground flush to the bracket to make clearance for the axle strap.
Torque the upper spring bracket to no more than 20 lb.-ft. (27 Nm).
Torque the frame mount bracket (left and right) to 38 lb.-ft. (52 Nm).
Torque the lower bracket nuts evenly to 10 lb.-ft. (14 Nm).
The minimum recommended air pressure is 5 PSI. The maximum air pressure is 100 PSI. Never exceed 100 PSI. The system can safely be run at zero air pressure, but 5 PSI is recommended for normal operation.
Maintain at least 1/2 inch clearance from anything that might rub against each sleeve, including tires, brakes, frame, shock absorbers and brake cables. Air lines must maintain at least 6 inches clearance from the exhaust system.
The LoadLifter 5000 Ultimate is an adjustable air helper spring system designed for 3/4-ton and 1-ton pickups and SUVs with leaf springs. It provides up to 5,000 pounds of load leveling support with air adjustability from 5–100 PSI. The system uses reinforced, commercial-grade single or double convolute bellows manufactured like a tire with layers of rubber and cords that control growth. It is used in motor home rear applications and various front applications where leaf springs are used.
No. Adding air springs will not change the weight ratings (GAWR, GCWR and/or GVWR) of your vehicle. You must not exceed your vehicle's GVWR. Exceeding the GVWR is dangerous and voids the Air Lift warranty. Check your vehicle's owner's manual and do not exceed the maximum load listed for your vehicle.
Yes. The LoadLifter 5000 Ultimate has different installation procedures for 2004–2008 models and 2009 & up models. The main differences are in the lower bracket installation and handling of ABS/brake lines on 2009 & up models, which have RSC (Roll Stability Control) brackets and brake lines that require repositioning.
Yes. You must remove both jounce bumpers between the frame and axle. For early 2004–2008 models, you must also remove the stock Universal Nut that held the jounce bumpers in place and install a new Universal Nut (part V) with the threaded portion facing up inside the frame. For 2009 & up models, no modifications are needed after removing the jounce bumpers.
Set a roll plate (H) over the top of the bellows (G) with the radiused (rounded) edge of the roll plate facing towards the bellows so that the bellows is seated inside both roll plates.
Install the straight fitting (I) into the top of the bellows finger tight, then tighten it one and a half turns.
No. The left and right assemblies are right and left hand specific. The left assembly goes on the driver's side; the right assembly goes on the passenger's side.
Mount the frame mount bracket on the frame with the flange pointing up and as tight to the frame as you can get it while tightening the hardware. Push the bracket against the frame before torquing.
Torque the 3/8 inch hex head bolt (K) connecting the roll plate to the lower bracket to no more than 20 lb.-ft. (27 Nm). Since it will be hard to torque this bolt unless using a crow's foot wrench adapter, just tighten the hardware securely.
The lower bracket must nest in between the stock U-bolts that hold the leaf spring to the axle. Push the bracket against the leaf spring and keep it in between the stock U-bolts during the entire tightening sequence.
On the left side (driver's side), the inside square holes must be used for the carriage bolts (T).
The axle strap (O) is installed on the right side (passenger's side) under the axle in between the emergency brake cable bracket and leaf spring retainer. The flange must be above the stock spring retainer, forward of the axle. It is secured with carriage bolts (T), a sleeve spacer (P), flat washers (M), and nylon lock nuts (U).
On 2009 & up models, remove the right ABS line from the bracket by pulling it straight up. Set a clamp (W) around the left ABS and brake line, insert a hex bolt (X) and flat washer (M) through the clamp, and install the bolt through the existing hole in the lower bracket where the right side ABS line was removed. Position the clamp so the lines turn 90° coming out of the fitting. Tie off the left ABS line to the right ABS line using a tie strap (BB).
The heat shield protects the air spring from the radiant heat of the exhaust system. It is installed on the exhaust pipe at the closest point to the air spring. The installation must maintain a 'dead air' space of 1/2 inch to 1 inch between the tail pipe and the heat shield. A hose heat shield is also supplied for the right (passenger's) side hose where it enters the bellows assembly.
First, check that exhaust clearance is 2–3 inches from the air cylinder. Attach radiator clamps loosely around the exhaust pipe nearest to the spring. Bend the heat shield tabs out at a 90° angle and again half the distance up at a 90° angle to form an 'L' shape. Repeat on the other tab. Position the heat shield and insert the tabs beneath the two radiator clamps, then tighten the clamps. Bend the heat shield to form it around the tail pipe while maintaining a 1/2 inch to 1 inch dead air space. Install the hose heat shield on the right (passenger's) side hose where it enters the bellows assembly.
Popular locations for the inflation valve are: the wheel well flanges, the license plate recess in bumper, under the gas cap access door, or through the license plate. Whatever location you choose, make sure there is enough clearance around the inflation valves for an air chuck.
Drill a 5/16 inch hole. Place a 5/16 inch nut and star washer on the air valve. Leave enough of the inflation valve in front of the nut to extend through the hole and have room for the rubber washer, flat washer, and 5/16 inch nut and cap. There should be approximately 1/2 inch of valve exposed after installation to easily apply a pressure gauge or air chuck. Push the inflation valve through the hole and use the rubber washer, flat washer, and another 5/16 inch nut to secure it in place.
Route the air line along the frame to the fitting on the air spring. Keep at least 6 inches of clearance between the air line and the exhaust system. Avoid sharp bends and edges. Use plastic tie straps to secure the air line to fixed points along the chassis. Make sure the tie straps are tight but do not pinch the air line. Leave at least 2 inches of slack to allow for any movement that might pull on the air line.
Cut off the air line, leaving approximately 12 inches of extra air line. Make a clean square cut to prevent leaks. Insert the air line into the air fitting, which is a push-to-connect fitting. Simply push the air line into the 90° swivel fitting until it bottoms out. Approximately 9/16 inch of air line should be in the fitting.
Use a sharp knife or a hose cutter and make clean, square cuts. Do not use scissors or wire cutters because these tools may deform the air line, causing it to leak around fittings. Do not cut the lines at an angle. A video demonstrating proper air line cutting is available at air-lift.co/cuttingairline.
Do not bend the 1/4 inch hose at a radius of less than 1 inch or bend the 3/8 inch hose at a radius of less than 1.5 inches. Do not put side load pressure on the fitting. The hose should be straight beyond the fitting for 1 inch before bending.
Inspect hose for scratches that run lengthwise on the hose prior to installation. Contact Air Lift customer service at (800) 248-0892 if the air line is damaged.
Inflate the air spring to 30 PSI. Spray all connections and the inflation valves with a solution of 1/5 liquid dish soap and 4/5 water. Spot leaks easily by looking for bubbles in the soapy water. After the test, deflate the springs to the minimum pressure required to restore the system to normal ride height. Do not deflate to lower than 5 PSI. Check the air pressure again after 24 hours. A 2–4 PSI loss after initial installation is normal. Retest for leaks if the loss is more than 5 PSI.
Perform the following checks: (1) Clearance test — Inflate to 75–90 PSI and ensure at least 1/2 inch clearance from tires, brakes, frame, shock absorbers and brake cables. (2) Leak test — Inflate to 75–90 PSI and check all connections for leaks. (3) Heat test — Ensure at least 6 inches clearance from heat sources; install heat shield if included. (4) Fastener test — Recheck all bolts for proper torque. (5) Road test — Drive 10 miles and recheck for clearance, loose fasteners and air leaks.
Recheck air pressure after the vehicle has been used for 24 hours. If the pressure has dropped more than 5 PSI, there is a leak that must be fixed. Either fix the leak yourself or return to the installer for service.
Recheck the air spring system after 30 days or 500 miles, whichever comes first. If any part shows signs of rubbing or abrasion, identify and move the source if possible. If relocation is not possible, the air spring may need to be remounted. Check all fasteners for tightness.
Check air pressure weekly.
Loaded vehicles require at least 25 PSI. A 'loaded vehicle' refers to a vehicle with a heavy bed load, a trailer or both. Never exceed GVWR, regardless of air spring, air pressure or other load assist.
The springs in this kit will support approximately 40 pounds of load (combined on both springs) for each 1 PSI of pressure.
When increasing load, always adjust air pressure to maintain normal ride height. Increase or decrease pressure from the system as necessary to attain normal ride height for optimal ride and handling. Remember that loads carried behind the axle (including tongue loads) require more leveling force (pressure) than those carried directly over the axle.
Always add air to springs in small quantities, checking the pressure frequently.
If it becomes necessary to raise the vehicle by the frame, make sure the system is at minimum pressure (5 PSI) to reduce the tension on the suspension/brake components. Use of on-board leveling systems do not require deflation or disconnection.
On occasion, give the air springs a hard spray with a garden hose to remove mud, sand, gravel or other debris.
Pressure determination comes down to three things: level vehicle, ride comfort and stability. (1) Level vehicle — If headlights are shining into the trees or the vehicle is leaning to one side, raise the air pressure to level it. (2) Ride comfort — If the vehicle has a rough or harsh ride, try different pressures to determine the best ride comfort. (3) Stability — Stability translates into safety and should be the priority. Stability issues include roll control, bounce, dive during braking and sponginess. Tuning out these problems usually requires an increase in pressure.
If the front of the vehicle dives while braking, increase the pressure in the front air bags, if equipped.
Yes. It may be necessary to maintain different pressures on each side of the vehicle. Loads such as water, fuel, and appliances will cause the vehicle to be heavier on one side. As much as a 50 PSI difference is not uncommon.
If the air springs are properly installed and maintained, they can last indefinitely.
For LoadLifter 5000 Ultimate, the recommended minimum air pressure is 5 PSI, but it can safely be run at zero air pressure.
No. Air pressure can be adjusted with any type of compressor as long as it can produce sufficient pressure to service the springs. Even a bicycle tire pump can be used, but it's a lot of work.
No. The vehicle can be lifted on a hoist for short-term service work such as tire rotation or oil changes. However, if the vehicle will be on the hoist for a prolonged period of time, support the axle with jack stands in order to take the tension off of the air springs.
Gross vehicle weight rating (GVWR) is the maximum allowable weight of the fully loaded vehicle, including passengers and cargo. This number — along with other weight limits, tire, rim size and inflation pressure data — is shown on the vehicle's Safety Compliance Certification Label. Do not exceed your vehicle's GVWR. Exceeding the GVWR is dangerous and voids the Air Lift warranty.
Payload is the combined, maximum allowable weight of cargo and passengers that the truck is designed to carry. Payload is GVWR minus the base curb weight.
Compressed air can cause injury and damage to the vehicle and parts if it is not handled properly. Do not try to inflate the air springs until they have been properly secured to the vehicle. Raise the vehicle and support the axle with jack stands, setting the jack stands as wide as possible on the axle. Wear safety glasses during installation.
The cause is likely an improperly installed air line, or the air line has holes or cracks. Leak test the air line connections, the threaded connection into the air spring, and all fittings in the control system. Use a soapy water solution (1/5 liquid dish soap and 4/5 water) to identify leaks by looking for bubbles.
The compressor relay may be defective or there is a leak in the air lines. Replace the relay or find the air leak using a soapy water solution (1/5 liquid dish soap and 4/5 water) to identify leaks by looking for bubbles.
The fitting seal or air line may be compromised. Check to make sure air lines are seated in connectors. Inspect fittings with soapy water (1/5 liquid dish soap and 4/5 water) to identify leaks by looking for bubbles. Trim hose or re-seal fitting. Ensure lines are cut straight.
Look for a kink or fold in the air line. Replace any air line that has been kinked.
First, check the air line connection by deflating the spring and removing the line by pulling the collar against the fitting and pulling firmly on the air line. Trim 1 inch off the end of the air line. Be sure the cut is clean and square. Reinsert the air line into the push-to-connect fitting. If it still leaks, check the threaded connection by tightening the swivel fitting another half turn. If it still leaks, deflate the air spring, remove the fitting, and re-coat the threads with thread sealant. Reinstall by hand tightening as much as possible and then use a wrench for an additional two turns.
First, check the valve core by tightening it with a valve core tool. If that does not work, check the air line by removing the air line from the barbed type fitting. Cut the air line off a few inches in front of the fitting and use a pair of pliers or vice grips to pull/twist the air line off of the fitting. Do not cut off the air line completely as this will usually nick the barb and render the fitting useless.
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