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Includes mounting brackets only (gooseneck hitch sold separately)
Capacity limited to lowest-rated towing component
Includes mounting brackets only (gooseneck hitch sold separately)
Warranty: Limited Lifetime Warranty (One-Year Finish, One-Year Parts)
Finish: A-COAT
Installation Time Exact (Minutes): 0
Choosing the right gooseneck hitch is only half the battle in preparing your pickup truck for towing a gooseneck trailer. CURT gooseneck hitches are a premium option in the heavy-duty towing industry, but they are only one of the members in the heavyweight tag team that is CURT gooseneck towing. While a gooseneck hitch gets all the glory above the floor of your truck bed, gooseneck installation brackets provide sure footing and a solid foundation for that oversized gooseneck trailer. Gooseneck installation brackets work by bolting onto the frame of your truck, typically using pre-existing holes. With a set of brackets firmly bolted on, a gooseneck hitch is able to be attached and is given the strength it needs to manage the massive amount of weight of a gooseneck trailer. With so many gooseneck hitch options available from CURT, we wanted to make sure we offered the gooseneck installation products needed to give you a complete towing package. Our installation brackets fit multiple vehicles and hitch heads. This particular set of gooseneck installation brackets is able to work with certain CURT Double Lock and Quick Goose II gooseneck hitches. It is rated to the vehicle's maximum gross trailer weight capacity and provides a custom fit for certain years of the Dodge Ram 1500, 2500 or 3500 (see application info to verify fitment). With each set of CURT gooseneck installation brackets, we provide the necessary hardware for an easier installation, and we coat our gooseneck brackets in a liquid A-coat to make sure rust and other potential damages are not a problem.
CURT offers a variety of high-quality trailer hitches and accessories for select vehicle models. Find the perfect fit for your towing needs at TowUniverse.
CURT, a Lippert brand, offers a complete line of towing products and is the leading manufacturer of custom-fit trailer hitches. We offer the broadest selection of custom-fit hitches, and each one is designed, welded, and coated in Wisconsin.
CURT is also a leader in flat towing products, as well as 5th wheel, gooseneck, and weight distribution hitches, ball mounts, electrical components, cargo solutions, and other towing accessories.
For everything from passenger cars and vans to full-size pickups and SUVs, CURT is 'The First Name in Towing Products®.'
Experts available to answer your questions
Call 888-634-94941 compatible vehicles
| Year | Make & Model | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| 2002 - 2008 | Dodge Ram 1500 | No Drilling Required |
The CURT 60659 Under-Bed Gooseneck Installation Brackets, Fits Select Dodge Ram 1500 (Part #BKDK60659) fits 2002-2008 Dodge Ram 1500 models. The 2008 model year is the last year covered by this part number. For newer models, check for an updated version.
Yes, the CURT 60659 Under-Bed Gooseneck Installation Brackets, Fits Select Dodge Ram 1500 (Part #BKDK60659) is designed to fit the 2002-2008 Dodge Ram 1500.
The CURT 60659 Under-Bed Gooseneck Installation Brackets, Fits Select Dodge Ram 1500 (Part #BKDK60659) fits the following vehicles: 2002-2008 Dodge Ram 1500. Always verify your specific year, make, and model before ordering.
The CURT 60659 Under-Bed Gooseneck Installation Brackets, Fits Select Dodge Ram 1500 (Part #BKDK60659) Drilling is not required for installation. Basic hand tools are typically all you need.
Yes, the 60659 SUBKIT is designed for 2002-2008 Dodge Ram 1500 models, including Mega Cab short bed configurations. However, you must verify that your truck meets the installation requirements: heat shields must be modified or removed, brake and fuel lines may need repositioning, and on short bed models you must check for adequate turning clearance between the front of all trailers and the truck cab before towing.
Yes, the 60659 SUBKIT will fit Mega Cab short bed models. However, on short bed models you must check for adequate turning clearance between the front of all trailers and the truck cab. The hitch ball will be positioned 4–5 inches in front of the axle, and the hole location is measured 45½ inches from the tailgate end of the truck bed.
Yes, the 60659 SUBKIT fits long bed models. The hole location is measured 47½ inches from the tailgate end of the truck bed, which will position the hitch ball 4–5 inches in front of the axle.
Yes. On two-wheel drive trucks, a clearance check must be performed when the truck is both loaded and unloaded to verify that the inverted ball will not interfere with the top of the differential. This is a critical safety check before towing.
The manual does not specify interference with spare tires. However, the installation requires a 4-inch hole to be drilled in the truck bed floor, and the round hitch receiver protrudes through this hole. Brake, fuel, and electrical lines may need to be loosened or repositioned, and heat shields must be modified or removed on all models. You should verify clearance with your specific truck configuration before installation.
The manual specifies the following tools: a 4-inch hole saw or a saber saw equipped with a metal cutting blade (for drilling the truck bed), a tape measure, and standard wrenches and sockets for fastener installation. An overhead lifting device such as chain falls, an engine hoist, or a cable come-a-long is recommended to lift the center section into position, though not strictly required.
No, an overhead lifting device is not required, but it is recommended. The manual states that a chain falls, engine hoist, or cable come-a-long can be used to lift the center section into position by looping rope or chain through the hole in the truck bed floor and attaching it to the round hitch receiver tube. The lifting device should be disconnected before squaring the center section across the frame and installing the side plates.
The kit includes: two U-bolts (CM-1204-UBS and CM-1205-UBS), eight 1/2-inch hex head cap screws, eight 1/2-inch flat washers, six 1/2-inch serrated flange nuts, four 1/2-inch carriage bolts, one 5/16-inch carriage bolt, one 5/16-inch flange nut, ten 1/2-inch lock washers, four 1/2-inch hex nuts, two 5/8-inch hex head cap screws, two 5/8-inch flat washers, two 5/8-inch serrated flange nuts, one exhaust hanger (CM-C655-EH), one 1/4-inch brake line spacer (CM-C659-BLS), two CM-SP24 spacers, and six CM-SP9 spacers. See the parts list on page 4 for complete details.
No, the truck bed does not need to be removed. However, a 4-inch hole must be drilled in the truck bed floor, and the round hitch receiver tube protrudes through this hole. The cross arms are installed by sliding them between the truck frame and truck bed above the tires.
Yes. The manual states that all models require modification or removal of heat shields. The specific procedure for heat shield modification is not detailed in the manual; you should consult the vehicle manufacturer's service manual or a qualified technician for the exact procedure.
Possibly. The manual states that brake, fuel, and electrical lines may need to be loosened or repositioned to provide clearance for new hardware. The U-bolt must be placed against the frame staying under the wiring harness and brake line. If the brake line interferes with the U-bolt, a brake line spacer (CM-C659-BLS) is included in the bolt kit and can be used to clamp the U-bolt over the top of the brake line.
Yes, on the driver side. Step 6 states: 'Remove the emergency brake cable bracket on the driver side frame if the brake cable interferes. This will be reattached to the side plate at a later time.' The bracket is reattached in step 8 using a 5/16-inch carriage bolt.
Yes. A 4-inch hole must be drilled in the truck bed floor. The hole location is critical and is measured from the tailgate end of the truck bed: 45½ inches for short bed models and 47½ inches for long bed models. The hole can be made using a 4-inch hole saw or by cutting a 4-inch circle with a saber saw equipped with a metal cutting blade. If the truck has a plastic bed liner, you may drill through both, but it is more difficult to accurately locate the midpoint between the wheel wells.
A 4-inch hole is required in the truck bed floor. This hole is made using a 4-inch hole saw or by cutting a 4-inch circle with a saber saw equipped with a metal cutting blade. The hole location is measured from the tailgate end of the truck bed: 45½ inches for short bed models and 47½ inches for long bed models, centered between the wheel wells.
Yes. On the passenger side of the truck, a notch must be made in the 1-inch sheet metal flange that hangs down from the bed. Locate the 7/16-inch hole in the flange above the axle and remove the metal below the hole. This notch allows for the rear cross arm installation. The notch location is shown in Figure 1 of the manual.
No, the manual does not mention welding as a requirement for installation.
Yes. The rear most stock exhaust bracket is removed and replaced with the exhaust bracket supplied in the bolt kit (CM-C655-EH). The new bracket is installed using the lower most hole, which drops the exhaust to provide clearance for the cross arm installation on the Mega Cab and clearance for the 5/8-inch by 7¾-inch bolt through the bottom of the frame.
Torque all 1/2-inch fasteners to 110 ft.-lbs., all U-bolts to 75 ft.-lbs., and 5/8-inch fasteners to 210 ft.-lbs. When torquing the U-bolts, tighten them slowly, alternating between the top and bottom of the U-bolt until equally tightened to a maximum of 40 ft.-lbs. Torque in this order: first, the center section to the front and rear cross arms; second, the side plates to the truck frame on both sides; third, the side plate flanges to the front and rear cross arms.
All 1/2-inch fasteners should be torqued to 110 ft.-lbs. This includes the bolts attaching the center section to the cross arms and the side plates to the truck frame.
U-bolts should be torqued to 75 ft.-lbs. When torquing, tighten them slowly, alternating between the top and bottom of the U-bolt until equally tightened to a maximum of 40 ft.-lbs. per end.
All 5/8-inch fasteners should be torqued to 210 ft.-lbs.
The 5/8-inch hex bolt is 7¾ inches long (5/8-inch by 7¾-inch). It is placed through the bottom side plate flange and clamped with three CM-SP9 spacers between the side plate and frame, then attached to the top of the frame with a CM-SP24 spacer and a 5/8-inch nut.
The hitch ball will be positioned 4–5 inches in front of the axle. This is achieved by measuring the hole location from the tailgate end of the truck bed: 45½ inches for short bed models and 47½ inches for long bed models.
The manual does not specify a maximum towing weight for the 60659 SUBKIT. However, it repeatedly warns: 'Do not exceed recommended vehicle towing weight' and 'Do not exceed vehicle manufacturer's recommended towing capacity.' You must consult your vehicle manufacturer's documentation for the maximum towing capacity of your specific Dodge Ram 1500 model.
On short bed models, you must check for adequate turning clearance between the front of all trailers and the truck cab. The manual provides a clearance calculation formula on page 5: (cab to ball center) minus (coupler overhang, if any) minus (half the trailer width) equals the minimum clearance. If the result is positive, the trailer will not interfere with the cab. If negative, the trailer will interfere. The manual includes example calculations and a worksheet for your specific trailer.
Before each use, perform the following checks: (1) Keep the hitch ball lubricated regularly using silicone spray or equivalent to prevent wear and rust. (2) Keep the hitch assembly free of dirt and other foreign debris. (3) Check for proper torque on all nuts and bolts. (4) Check for excessive wear. (5) Check ball wear before each use. Do not tow a trailer with worn or damaged parts.
The manual states that removal of rear window accessories may be required, but does not specify which accessories or under what conditions. You should verify clearance with your specific truck configuration and trailer before towing.
After installation, verify that all fasteners are tight and all structural components are sound. The manual states: 'Periodically check this receiver hitch to ensure that all fasteners are tight and that all structural components are sound.' Before each use, check for proper torque on all nuts and bolts, check for excessive wear, and check ball wear. Do not tow a trailer with worn or damaged parts.
Maintenance is required every 30 days or prior to use. The maintenance tasks are: (1) Keep the hitch ball lubricated regularly using silicone spray or equivalent to prevent wear and rust. (2) Keep the hitch assembly free of dirt and other foreign debris. (3) Check for proper torque on all nuts and bolts and check for excessive wear. (4) Check ball wear before each use. Do not tow a trailer with worn or damaged parts.
Keep the hitch ball lubricated regularly using silicone spray or equivalent to prevent wear and rust. This maintenance is required every 30 days or prior to use.
The manual requires that you check for proper torque on all nuts and bolts before each use. A full retorque procedure and interval are not specified; however, the manual states that maintenance checks are required every 30 days or prior to use.
You need a 4-inch hole saw or saber saw with metal cutting blade, tape measure, and standard wrenches and sockets. An overhead lifting device (chain falls, engine hoist, or cable come-a-long) is recommended but not required.
Yes. All models require modification or removal of heat shields. Consult your vehicle manufacturer's service manual for the specific procedure.
Torque 1/2-inch fasteners to 110 ft.-lbs., U-bolts to 75 ft.-lbs. (alternating top and bottom to max 40 ft.-lbs. per end), and 5/8-inch fasteners to 210 ft.-lbs. Torque in order: center section to cross arms, side plates to frame, then side plate flanges to cross arms.
Every 30 days or before use: lubricate the hitch ball with silicone spray, keep the assembly clean, check all fastener torque, and inspect for wear. Do not tow with worn or damaged parts.
Yes. On short bed models, verify adequate turning clearance between the front of all trailers and the truck cab. Use the clearance calculation formula on page 5: (cab to ball center) minus (coupler overhang, if any) minus (half trailer width). Result must be positive.
Use the brake line spacer (CM-C659-BLS) included in the bolt kit. The spacer clamps the U-bolt over the top of the brake line, as shown in Figure 3 of the manual. Place the U-bolt against the frame staying under the wiring harness and brake line, then use the spacer to secure it.
The manual requires a clearance check on two-wheel drive trucks when the truck is both loaded and unloaded to verify the inverted ball will not interfere with the top of the differential. If interference is found, do not proceed with towing. Consult the vehicle manufacturer or a qualified technician for guidance on resolving the clearance issue.
On the passenger side, a notch must be made in the 1-inch sheet metal flange that hangs down from the bed. Locate the 7/16-inch hole in the flange above the axle and remove the metal below the hole. This notch allows the rear cross arm to be installed. See Figure 1 in the manual for the notch location.
Remove the emergency brake cable bracket on the driver side frame if the brake cable interferes (step 6). The bracket will be reattached to the side plate at a later time using a 5/16-inch carriage bolt (step 8).
On the driver side, it is necessary to remove a wiring harness frame clip before installing the U-bolts. Place the U-bolt against the frame staying under the wiring harness and brake line. After fastening the U-bolt to the side plates, replace the wiring harness frame clip.
On the passenger side, pull the exhaust sideways to allow ample clearance for the 7¾-inch hex bolt installation. The exhaust bracket has already been replaced with the supplied bracket (CM-C655-EH) in step 2, which drops the exhaust to provide clearance.
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