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Includes mounting brackets only (gooseneck hitch sold separately)
Capacity limited to lowest-rated towing component
Includes mounting brackets only (gooseneck hitch sold separately)
Warranty: Limited Lifetime Warranty (One-Year Finish, One-Year Parts)
Finish: A-COAT
Installation Time Exact (Minutes): 0
Choosing the right gooseneck hitch is only half the battle in preparing your pickup truck for towing a gooseneck trailer. CURT gooseneck hitches are a premium option in the heavy-duty towing industry, but they are only one of the members in the heavyweight tag team that is CURT gooseneck towing. While a gooseneck hitch gets all the glory above the floor of your truck bed, gooseneck installation brackets provide sure footing and a solid foundation for that oversized gooseneck trailer. Gooseneck installation brackets work by bolting onto the frame of your truck, typically using pre-existing holes. With a set of brackets firmly bolted on, a gooseneck hitch is able to be attached and is given the strength it needs to manage the massive amount of weight of a gooseneck trailer. With so many gooseneck hitch options available from CURT, we wanted to make sure we offered the gooseneck installation products needed to give you a complete towing package. Our installation brackets fit multiple vehicles and hitch heads. This particular set of gooseneck installation brackets is able to work with certain CURT Double Lock and Quick Goose II gooseneck hitches. It is rated to the vehicle's maximum gross trailer weight capacity and provides a custom fit for certain years of the Dodge Ram 2500 or 3500 (see application info to verify fitment). With each set of CURT gooseneck installation brackets, we provide the necessary hardware for an easier installation, and we coat our gooseneck brackets in a liquid A-coat to make sure rust and other potential damages are not a problem.
CURT offers a variety of high-quality trailer hitches and accessories for select vehicle models. Find the perfect fit for your towing needs at TowUniverse.
CURT, a Lippert brand, offers a complete line of towing products and is the leading manufacturer of custom-fit trailer hitches. We offer the broadest selection of custom-fit hitches, and each one is designed, welded, and coated in Wisconsin.
CURT is also a leader in flat towing products, as well as 5th wheel, gooseneck, and weight distribution hitches, ball mounts, electrical components, cargo solutions, and other towing accessories.
For everything from passenger cars and vans to full-size pickups and SUVs, CURT is 'The First Name in Towing Products®.'
Experts available to answer your questions
Call 888-634-94948 compatible vehicles
| Year | Make & Model | Style | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| 2003 - 2010 | Dodge Ram 2500 | Crew Cab Pickup · 4-Door | No Drilling Required |
| 2006 - 2010 | Dodge Ram 2500 | Extended Crew Cab Pickup | No Drilling Required |
| 2003 - 2010 | Dodge Ram 2500 | Standard Cab Pickup · 2-Door | No Drilling Required |
| 2003 - 2010 | Dodge Ram 3500 | — | No Drilling Required |
| 2011 - 2013 | Ram 2500 | — | No Drilling Required |
| 2011 - 2012 | Ram 3500 | Crew Cab Pickup · 4-Door | No Drilling Required |
| 2011 - 2012 | Ram 3500 | Extended Crew Cab Pickup · 4-Door | No Drilling Required |
| 2011 - 2012 | Ram 3500 | Standard Cab Pickup · 2-Door | No Drilling Required |
Yes, the CURT 60661 Under-Bed Gooseneck Installation Brackets, Fits Select Dodge, Ram 2500, 3500 (Part #BKDK60661) is designed to fit the 2003-2010 Dodge Ram 2500.
The CURT 60661 Under-Bed Gooseneck Installation Brackets, Fits Select Dodge, Ram 2500, 3500 (Part #BKDK60661) fits 2003-2010 Dodge Ram 2500 models. The 2013 model year is the last year covered by this part number. For newer models, check for an updated version.
The CURT 60661 Under-Bed Gooseneck Installation Brackets, Fits Select Dodge, Ram 2500, 3500 (Part #BKDK60661) fits the following vehicles: 2003-2010 Dodge Ram 2500; 2003-2010 Dodge Ram 3500; 2011-2013 Ram 2500; 2011-2012 Ram 3500. Always verify your specific year, make, and model before ordering.
The CURT 60661 Under-Bed Gooseneck Installation Brackets, Fits Select Dodge, Ram 2500, 3500 (Part #BKDK60661) Drilling is not required for installation. Basic hand tools are typically all you need.
Yes, the 60661 subkit is designed for Dodge 2500 and 3500 trucks in both short bed and long bed configurations. However, it is a subkit and must be used with the 60607 center section (not included in the subkit). The installation process and hole location differ between short bed (42½ inches from tailgate) and long bed (44½ inches from tailgate) models.
Yes, the 60661 subkit is designed for both two-wheel-drive (4x2) and four-wheel-drive (4x4) models. However, the side plate bracket attachment differs: brackets attach to the top set of holes on side plates for two-wheel-drive models and the bottom set of holes for four-wheel-drive models. Additionally, two-wheel-drive trucks require a clearance check when the truck is both loaded and unloaded to verify the inverted ball will not interfere with the top of the differential.
The 60661 subkit includes two cross arms (60661-CA), driver and passenger side plates and brackets (60661-DSWA, 60661-DSB, 60661-PSWA, 60661-PSB), spacer plates (60661-SP), an exhaust hanger (CM-C655-EH), four U-bolts (CM-1209-UBS), and a complete bolt kit with carriage bolts, hex flange nuts, washers, and spacers. The subkit weighs 90 lbs. The 60607 center section is not included and must be purchased separately.
Yes, drilling is required. You must make a 4-inch hole in the truck bed at a specific location. For short bed trucks, measure 42½ inches from the tailgate end (measured by hooking the tape measure over the rear of the truck box, not from the edge of the tailgate). For long bed trucks, measure 44½ inches. Mark the center between the wheel wells to establish the center point. If the truck has a spray-on bed liner, add approximately 1/8 inch to the measurement. If the truck has a plastic bed liner, you may drill through both, but it is more difficult to accurately locate the midpoint and keep the liner from moving.
Required tools are: safety glasses, ratchet, 15mm, 17mm, and 3/4-inch sockets, crescent wrench, and torque wrench. A 4-inch hole saw is also needed to drill the bed hole. The manual notes that a crescent wrench will be used to bend the metal flange below the bed outward to allow the cross arms to be slid into position.
Yes, you must temporarily remove the spare tire during installation. You may also need to temporarily remove plastic wheel well covers if the vehicle is equipped with them and if they are a style that prevents hitch installation.
The two cross arms (A) are inserted by sliding them between the frame and the bottom of the truck bed. The first cross arm is inserted so the leg without holes is against the bottom of the bed and the leg with holes faces the rear of the vehicle. Use a crescent wrench to bend the metal flange below the bed outward to allow the cross arms to slide into position; the cross arm can be used as a lever to add additional bend if needed. Slide the first cross arm forward until it is next to the forward bed support. The second cross arm is inserted in the same location and slid until it spans the frame rails, with the leg without holes against the bed and the leg with holes facing the front of the vehicle.
The U-bolts must be positioned under all brake lines and wires. The forward U-bolt is placed on the inside of the driver side frame rail (see Figure B for approximate location). One or two wire harness clips may need to be unfastened from the inside of the driver side frame rail on some models for the U-bolt to be positioned. The rearward U-bolt is inserted over the inside of the driver side frame rail after the rubber bump stop is removed.
The center section is raised into position and loosely attached to the forward cross arm by placing four 1/2-inch by 1½-inch carriage bolts (part 2) with four CM-SP12 spacers (part 8) through the forward cross arm and attaching with four 1/2-inch hex flange nuts (part 5). The rearward cross arm is then slid forward and loosely attached to the center section by inserting four 1/2-inch by 1½-inch carriage bolts (part 2) through the center and out the rearward cross arm, attached with four 1/2-inch hex flange nuts (part 5). All fasteners are left loose until the final torque sequence in step 15.
The side plates are loosely assembled with their brackets using 1/2-inch by 1-inch carriage bolts (part 3) and 1/2-inch hex flange nuts (part 5). The brackets attach to the top set of holes on the side plates for two-wheel-drive models and the bottom set of holes for four-wheel-drive models. These assemblies are left loose until the final torque sequence.
The rubber bump stops are removed from underneath each frame rail by removing two M10 bolts from each. The rubber bump stops must be saved for reinstallation, but the hardware removed will not be reinstalled. Later, the side plate assembly is clamped between the rubber bump stop and frame rail using new 7/16-inch conical toothed washers and M10 bolts.
Yes. On 2012 and earlier models, the ground wire on the outside of the driver side frame rail must not be pinched between the driver side plate (B) and frame. This ground wire may need to be loosened, rotated slightly, and retightened for the plate to be put into position.
The spacer (F) is positioned between the plate and frame rail during installation of the rearward U-bolt on the driver side. It is positioned in the orientation shown on page 1 of the manual. A similar process is repeated on the passenger side.
All 1/2-inch fasteners are torqued to 110 ft-lbs. M10 hardware is torqued to 45 ft-lbs. When torquing the U-bolts, tighten them slowly, alternating between the top and bottom of the U-bolt until equally tightened to a maximum of 40 ft-lbs. Fasteners must be torqued in a specific order: first, torque the center section to the front and rear cross arms; second, torque the side plates to the truck frame and U-bolts on both sides; third, torque the side plates to the front and rear cross arms.
Torque fasteners in this order: First, torque the center section to the front and rear cross arms. Second, torque the side plates to the truck frame and U-bolts on both sides (tighten U-bolts slowly, alternating between top and bottom until equally tightened to maximum 40 ft-lbs). Third, torque the side plates to the front and rear cross arms. All 1/2-inch fasteners are torqued to 110 ft-lbs and M10 hardware to 45 ft-lbs.
Yes, on some models the rearmost rubber exhaust isolator may need to be replaced with the included isolator (CM-C655-EH) for additional clearance between the exhaust and the hitch. This will only be needed on models with specific exhaust styles shown in Figure C of the manual. The manual also notes that some models may require modification or removal of heat shields.
On short bed models, you must check for adequate turning clearance between the front of all trailers and the truck cab. The manual provides a clearance calculation method on page 4: measure the distance from the cab to the ball center (X), subtract half the trailer width (Y), and if using a trailer with coupler overhang, subtract the overhang (W). The result must be positive for the trailer not to interfere with the cab. Short bed installations place the hole 42½ inches from the tailgate.
On two-wheel-drive trucks, a clearance check must be performed when the truck is both loaded and unloaded to verify the inverted ball will not interfere with the top of the differential. This is a critical safety check because the ball position changes relative to the differential as the truck's suspension compresses and extends with load.
Do not exceed the vehicle manufacturer's recommended towing capacity. The manual emphasizes 'DO NOT EXCEED RECOMMENDED VEHICLE TOWING WEIGHT' but does not specify a weight limit itself; you must refer to your Dodge truck's manufacturer specifications.
Periodically check the gooseneck hitch to ensure that all fasteners are tight and that all structural components are sound. The manual does not specify an interval but emphasizes this as an ongoing maintenance requirement.
The subkit weighs 90 lbs.
No. The 60661 subkit is designed for use with the 60607 center section, which is not included in the subkit. The center section must be purchased separately and is required for complete installation.
Brake, fuel, and electrical lines may need to be loosened or repositioned to provide clearance for new hardware. The manual does not provide specific procedures for these modifications; they depend on the individual truck's configuration. Wire harness clips may need to be unfastened from the inside of the driver side frame rail on some models to position the U-bolts.
The ball will be positioned approximately 3 inches in front of the axle. This is achieved by measuring from the tailgate end of the truck bed: 42½ inches for short bed models and 44½ inches for long bed models.
Yes, the 60661 subkit fits Dodge 2500 and 3500 trucks in both short bed and long bed configurations, and works with both two-wheel-drive and four-wheel-drive models. It must be used with the 60607 center section (sold separately).
Yes, you must drill a 4-inch hole in the truck bed. For short bed trucks, measure 42½ inches from the tailgate; for long bed trucks, measure 44½ inches. Mark the center between the wheel wells for the hole location.
You need a ratchet, 15mm, 17mm, and 3/4-inch sockets, crescent wrench, torque wrench, safety glasses, and a 4-inch hole saw for drilling the bed hole.
Torque all 1/2-inch fasteners to 110 ft-lbs and M10 hardware to 45 ft-lbs. U-bolts are torqued to a maximum of 40 ft-lbs, alternating between top and bottom. Torque in order: center section to cross arms first, then side plates to frame and U-bolts, then side plates to cross arms.
On short bed models, verify adequate turning clearance between the front of all trailers and the truck cab using the clearance calculation on page 4. On two-wheel-drive trucks, check clearance when both loaded and unloaded to ensure the ball does not interfere with the differential.
Yes, temporarily remove the spare tire and any plastic wheel well covers that prevent hitch installation.
Periodically check that all fasteners are tight and all structural components are sound.
Use a crescent wrench to bend the metal flange below the bed outward to allow the cross arms to slide into position. The cross arm itself can be used as a lever to add additional bend to the flange if needed. Once the flange is bent sufficiently, the cross arms should slide into position between the frame and bed.
One or two of the wire harness clips may need to be unfastened from the inside of the driver side frame rail on some models for the U-bolt to be put into position. Unfasten these clips as needed to allow the U-bolt to be positioned. The same may apply on the passenger side when installing the rearward U-bolt.
On 2012 and earlier models, the ground wire on the outside of the driver side frame rail must not be pinched between the driver side plate (B) and frame. Loosen the ground wire, rotate it slightly, and retighten it to allow the plate to be put into position without pinching the wire.
A negative result means the trailer will interfere with the cab of the truck. You cannot safely use that trailer configuration with your truck. Refer to the clearance calculation on page 4 of the manual: (X) - (Y) = (Z), where X is the distance from cab to ball center, Y is half the trailer width, and W is any coupler overhang. If Z is negative, the trailer will interfere with the cab.
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