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2009 - 2010 Dodge Ram 1500
Confirmed to Fit
2011 - 2018 Ram 1500
Confirmed to Fit
2019 - 2024 Ram 1500 Classic
Confirmed to Fit
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Always the correct part
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Includes mounting brackets only (gooseneck hitch sold separately)
Capacity limited to lowest-rated towing component
Includes mounting brackets only (gooseneck hitch sold separately)
Warranty: Limited Lifetime Warranty (One-Year Finish, One-Year Parts)
Finish: A-COAT
Installation Time Exact (Minutes): 0
Choosing the right gooseneck hitch is only half the battle in preparing your pickup truck for towing a gooseneck trailer. CURT gooseneck hitches are a premium option in the heavy-duty towing industry, but they are only one of the members in the heavyweight tag team that is CURT gooseneck towing. While a gooseneck hitch gets all the glory above the floor of your truck bed, gooseneck installation brackets provide sure footing and a solid foundation for that oversized gooseneck trailer. Gooseneck installation brackets work by bolting onto the frame of your truck, typically using pre-existing holes. With a set of brackets firmly bolted on, a gooseneck hitch is able to be attached and is given the strength it needs to manage the massive amount of weight of a gooseneck trailer. With so many gooseneck hitch options available from CURT, we wanted to make sure we offered the gooseneck installation products needed to give you a complete towing package. Our installation brackets fit multiple vehicles and hitch heads. This particular set of gooseneck installation brackets is able to work with certain CURT Double Lock gooseneck hitches. It is rated to the vehicle's maximum gross trailer weight capacity and provides a custom fit for certain years of the Dodge Ram 1500 (excluding air suspension) (see application info to verify fitment). With each gooseneck installation bracket sub kit, we provide the necessary hardware for an easier installation, and we coat our gooseneck brackets in a liquid A-coat to make sure rust and other potential damages are not a problem.
CURT offers a variety of high-quality trailer hitches and accessories for select vehicle models. Find the perfect fit for your towing needs at TowUniverse.
CURT, a Lippert brand, offers a complete line of towing products and is the leading manufacturer of custom-fit trailer hitches. We offer the broadest selection of custom-fit hitches, and each one is designed, welded, and coated in Wisconsin.
CURT is also a leader in flat towing products, as well as 5th wheel, gooseneck, and weight distribution hitches, ball mounts, electrical components, cargo solutions, and other towing accessories.
For everything from passenger cars and vans to full-size pickups and SUVs, CURT is 'The First Name in Towing Products®.'
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3 compatible vehicles
| Year | Make & Model | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| 2009 - 2010 | Dodge Ram 1500 | No Drilling Required Installation Time - Except Air Ride Suspension |
| 2011 - 2018 | Ram 1500 | No Drilling Required Installation Time - Except Air Ride Suspension |
| 2019 - 2024 | Ram 1500 Classic | No Drilling Required Installation Time - Except Air Ride Suspension |
Yes, the CURT Double Lock Gooseneck Install Brackets, Select Dodge, Ram 1500, w/ Coil Springs Gooseneck Trailer Hitch Mount Kit (Part #BKDK60657) is designed to fit the 2009-2010 Dodge Ram 1500.
The CURT Double Lock Gooseneck Install Brackets, Select Dodge, Ram 1500, w/ Coil Springs Gooseneck Trailer Hitch Mount Kit (Part #BKDK60657) fits the following vehicles: 2009-2010 Dodge Ram 1500; 2011-2018 Ram 1500; 2019-2024 Ram 1500 Classic. Always verify your specific year, make, and model before ordering.
The CURT Double Lock Gooseneck Install Brackets, Select Dodge, Ram 1500, w/ Coil Springs Gooseneck Trailer Hitch Mount Kit (Part #BKDK60657) fits 2009-2010 Dodge Ram 1500 models. The 2024 model year is the last year covered by this part number. For newer models, check for an updated version.
The CURT Double Lock Gooseneck Install Brackets, Select Dodge, Ram 1500, w/ Coil Springs Gooseneck Trailer Hitch Mount Kit (Part #BKDK60657) Drilling is not required for installation. Typical installation time is . Basic hand tools are typically all you need.
Part number 60657 is a Curt Manufacturing gooseneck hitch designed for the Dodge Ram 1500. It fits all model years and bed lengths of the Dodge Ram 1500, including 5'7", 6'4", and 8-foot bed configurations.
Yes, the hitch is designed for all Dodge Ram 1500 configurations. However, on two-wheel drive trucks, you must perform a clearance check to verify that the inverted ball will not interfere with the top of the differential when the truck is loaded. This is a critical safety check before use.
Yes, the hitch fits short bed models (5'7"). However, you must check for adequate turning clearance between the front of any trailer and the truck cab, as short bed trucks have less distance between the cab and the hitch ball. Use the clearance calculation provided in the manual to verify your specific trailer will not interfere with the cab during turns.
Required tools are: flat screwdriver, 3/4" and 15/16" wrenches, 3/4" and 15/16" sockets, ratchet, torque wrench, and adjustable wrench. You will also need a 4-inch hole saw or saber saw with metal cutting blade to cut the bed hole, and a rotary cutting tool or grinder to cut the slot in the inner fender liner.
The kit includes: two 1/2-13 UNC 2-1/2" hex head cap screws (part 10-10306), two 5/8-11 UNC 1-1/2" carriage bolts (part 10-10330), ten 1/2-13 UNC 1-1/2" hex head cap screws (part 10-10334), twelve 1/2-13 UNC serrated flange nuts (part 20-00062), two 5/8-11 UNC serrated flange nuts (part 20-00105), ten 1/2" lock washers (part 30-00015), twelve 1/2" flat washers (part 30-00133), two 1/2-13 x 4 1/8 x 6 x 1 1/2 square U-bolts (part CM-1208-UBS), two 0.375 x 1.25 x 2.50" square hole spacers (part CM-SP9), and two 5/8" fishwire tools (part 5_8 FISHWIRE).
No, the C-606 is recommended but not required. The manual states that using this tool is recommended to lift and hold the center section in place during installation, especially if the truck bed floor has been distorted downward from heavy use. It should be disconnected before squaring the center section across the frame and installing the sideplates.
The manual does not specify whether battery disconnection is required. Contact Curt Manufacturing technical support at 1-877-287-8634 for guidance on this.
A 4-inch hole must be cut in the truck bed floor, and four 1/2-inch holes must be drilled for safety chain installation. However, the manual states "NO DRILLING REQUIRED" in the install notes, which refers to the main hitch frame attachment—no drilling of the frame itself is needed. The bed and fender modifications are necessary.
Measure from the tailgate end of the truck bed by hooking a tape measure over the back of the truck box. For 5'7" and 6'4" bed models, the hole should be 40-1/8" from the tailgate. For 8-foot bed models, it should be 42-1/8" from the tailgate. The hole must be centered between the wheel wells, ideally in the center of a low rib in the bed floor. Mark carefully and cut using a 4-inch hole saw or saber saw with metal cutting blade. Do not measure from the edge of the tailgate.
Yes, you may drill through both the bed liner and the truck bed, but the manual notes this is more difficult. It is harder to accurately locate the midpoint between the wheel wells and to keep the bed liner from moving while cutting the hole. Take extra care with measurement and securing the liner during cutting.
Remove the eleven screws securing the inner fender liner inside the driver side wheel well. Remove the lower part of the liner up to the relief cut on the front and rear edges, then pull the liner down at the inside bottom edge to release the top edge from the lip of the wheel well. Measure 12 inches from the rear screw hole toward the front of the truck. Using a rotary cutting tool or grinder, remove a 3/4-inch wide by 1-inch tall slot to allow the pin handle rod to be installed. Trim the inner fender liner to match the slot cut in the wheel well, then reinstall the liner.
Four 1/2-inch holes must be drilled through the truck bed floor for safety chain u-bolts. These holes should match up with the two sets of holes on each side of the center section. You may drill from the bottom using the center as a guide, or drill a small pilot hole from the bottom and then drill the 1/2-inch holes from the top side of the bed.
The installation sequence is: (1) Mark and cut the 4-inch hole in the truck bed; (2) Relocate the wiring harness and axle vent tube from the rear cross member area; (3) Install the rear cross member; (4) Install the center section; (5) Install the front cross member; (6) Install the side plates; (7) Install the rear brace; (8) Tighten all hardware in the specified sequence; (9) Relocate the axle vent tube to its final position; (10) Install safety chain u-bolts and springs; (11) Install the pin handle.
Before installing the rear cross member, you must relocate the wiring harness that runs along the top of the frame cross member just behind the axle. Pull each of the four plug fasteners securing the harness and push it toward the rear of the truck. Also remove the vent tube clip from the frame rail, allowing the vent tube to hang during installation. The vent tube will be relocated to its final position after the hitch is installed.
The rear cross member (2" x 1" bar with threaded holes) is installed from the passenger side, just in front of the rear tire. Insert it between the frame and the top suspension control arm with the notch facing the rear. Slide the leading end above the exhaust and over the frame on the driver side while moving toward the rear. Raise the opposite end until both ends are positioned over the top of the frame with the cross member laying flat and notch still facing the rear. Adjust it parallel to the axle and slide it toward the rear until it is over the frame cross member where the wiring harness was attached. Rotate it from flat to vertical so the notch on the driver side faces down. Slide it rearward as far as possible while ensuring the wiring harness is not pinched. The cross member will rest on the frame and be suspended just above the frame cross member.
Position the center section so the 4-inch diameter raised area fits into the 4-inch hole in the truck bed. The round receiver will be almost directly above the vehicle's axle when installed. If the vehicle has dual exhaust, send the end of the center without the spring over the axle first, from behind the rear axle with the bottom side facing the passenger side. Send the lead end toward the front of the truck and passenger side far enough so the rear end clears the exhaust. Once clear of the exhaust, rotate and lift the center so the 4-inch raised area is toward the bottom of the truck bed. Slide it rearward over the exhaust until the 4-inch cylinder is in the 4-inch hole in the bed. If available, attach the C-606 Double Lock Gooseneck Install Tool to apply upward pressure. Slide the rear cross member forward until it contacts the center section, line up the holes with the slots, and attach using two outside slots with 1/2" x 1-1/2" bolts, lock washers, and flat washers. Hand tighten only at this time.
The rear cross member is attached to the center section using two 1/2" x 1-1/2" bolts with lock washers and flat washers, threaded into the threaded holes in the rear cross member. The front cross member is attached using two 1/2" x 2-1/4" bolts in the two center holes only, with bolt heads toward the rear of the truck, plus flat washers, lock washers, and hex nuts. All connections are hand tightened initially and fully torqued later in the sequence.
U-bolts are placed in front of each coil spring around the truck frame. Start with u-bolts pulled back so their ends are flush with the tubular frame wall. On the passenger side, position the side plate with two bends so the two round holes match up with the u-bolt and push the u-bolt into the holes. Secure with lock washers and nuts. Attach the side plate to the front cross member and center using a 1/2" x 2-1/4" bolt through all three components with lock washer, two flat washers, and hex nut. Finish with a 1/2" x 1-1/2" bolt through the cross member and side plate with flat washer, lock washer, and hex nut. Hand tighten all connections. On the driver side, maneuver the first side plate around the brake lines to line up with the u-bolt, insert the u-bolt just enough to hold it in place, then position the second side plate over the first and insert the u-bolt through both. Secure with lock washers and nuts. Fasten the two side plates together using 1/2" x 1-1/2" bolts, lock washers, and hex nuts. Attach to the front cross member and center using a 1/2" x 2-1/4" bolt with lock washer, two flat washers, and hex nut, then a 1/2" x 2-1/4" bolt through the cross member and side plates with flat washer, lock washer, and hex nut. Hand tighten all connections.
Use the 5/8-inch fishwire tools provided to insert a 5/8-11 x 1-inch carriage bolt and CM-SP9 spacer into each of the cross member holes using the slot that runs in the top of the cross member. Position the rear brace so the two large slots go over the 5/8-inch carriage bolts. Attach the rear brace to the center section and rear cross member using two 1/2-13 x 1-1/2" bolts with lock washers and flat washers. Hand tighten only at this time. Secure the rear brace to the cross member using 5/8-inch flange nuts. If the truck has dual exhaust, it may be helpful to pry the exhaust downward while installing the flange nut on the driver side bolt.
Torque the 5/8-inch flange nuts to 210 ft-lbs. Torque the nuts on the U-bolts to 40 ft-lbs, alternating between top and bottom threads to secure the u-bolt evenly. Torque all 1/2-inch hardware to 110 ft-lbs. Before tightening, ensure the center section is tight against the bottom of the truck bed and the hitch is centered and square in relation to the truck frame.
The 5/8-inch flange nuts should be torqued to 210 ft-lbs. Before tightening, ensure the rear cross member is centered across the frame and that the wiring harness is not pinched.
Torque the nuts on the U-bolts to 40 ft-lbs. Tighten them alternating between the top and bottom threads so the u-bolt is secured evenly.
All 1/2-inch hardware should be torqued to 110 ft-lbs. This includes the bolts connecting the center section to the cross members, the bolts connecting the side plates to the cross members and center, and the bolts fastening the side plates together.
The tightening sequence is: (1) Torque the 5/8-inch flange nuts to 210 ft-lbs, ensuring the rear cross member is centered and the wiring harness is not pinched; (2) Tighten the rear brace to the rear cross member and center; (3) Tighten the center to the rear cross member; (4) Tighten the center to the front cross member, ensuring it is centered; (5) Tighten both side plate u-bolts alternating between top and bottom threads, torquing to 40 ft-lbs; (6) Tighten the two bolts holding the side plates together on the driver side; (7) Tighten the side plates to the front cross member and center; (8) Torque all 1/2-inch hardware to 110 ft-lbs.
Drill four 1/2-inch holes through the truck bed floor to match up with the two sets of holes on each side of the center section. Drop a u-bolt through each pair of holes from the top side of the bed floor. Place a spring and lock nut on each of the four legs. Tighten the lock nuts until they are flush with the bottom of the u-bolts.
After the hitch is installed, locate the axle vent tube that was disconnected from the frame at the beginning of the installation. Relocate the vent by clipping the end to the frame cross member as shown in the manual figure.
On two-wheel drive trucks, you must verify that the inverted ball will not interfere with the top of the differential when the truck is loaded. This is a critical safety check that must be completed before towing any trailer.
On short bed models, you must check for adequate turning clearance between the front of all trailers and the truck cab. Use the clearance calculation provided in the manual: measure the distance from the cab to the ball center (X), subtract half the trailer width (Y), and subtract any coupler overhang (W). If the result is positive, the trailer will not interfere with the cab. If negative, the trailer will interfere and should not be used.
Do not exceed the recommended vehicle towing weight rating. The manual does not specify a particular weight limit for this hitch; refer to your Dodge Ram 1500 owner's manual or contact Curt Manufacturing at 1-877-287-8634 for the specific towing capacity of your vehicle.
Brake, fuel, and electrical lines may need to be loosened or repositioned to provide clearance for new hardware during installation. Check these lines carefully during the installation process, particularly when installing the side plates on the driver side, which must be maneuvered around the brake lines.
Before tightening the hitch hardware, ensure the center section is tight against the bottom of the truck bed and the hitch is centered and square in relation to the truck frame. After installation, verify that the rear cross member is centered across the frame and the wiring harness is not pinched. Confirm that the front cross member is centered. Check that all fasteners are tight and all structural components are sound.
Maintenance is required every 30 days or prior to use: (A) Keep the hitch ball lubricated regularly using silicone spray or equivalent to prevent wear and rust; (B) Keep the hitch assembly free of dirt and other foreign debris; (C) Check for proper torque on all nuts and bolts before each use and check for excessive wear; (D) Check ball wear before each use. Do not tow a trailer with worn or damaged parts.
Periodically check the receiver hitch to ensure that all fasteners are tight and that all structural components are sound. Specifically, check for proper torque on all nuts and bolts before each use and also check for excessive wear.
Keep the hitch ball lubricated regularly using silicone spray or equivalent to prevent wear and rust.
Yes, the Curt 60657 is designed for all Dodge Ram 1500 models with all bed lengths (5'7", 6'4", and 8-foot). On two-wheel drive trucks, verify the ball will not interfere with the differential when loaded. On short beds, check turning clearance with your trailer using the provided calculation.
A 4-inch hole must be cut in the truck bed, and four 1/2-inch holes must be drilled for safety chains. No drilling of the truck frame is required. The inner fender liner must be trimmed to accommodate the pin handle.
You need: flat screwdriver, 3/4" and 15/16" wrenches and sockets, ratchet, torque wrench, adjustable wrench, 4-inch hole saw or saber saw with metal cutting blade, and a rotary cutting tool or grinder for the fender liner slot.
Torque 5/8-inch flange nuts to 210 ft-lbs, U-bolt nuts to 40 ft-lbs (alternating top and bottom), and all 1/2-inch hardware to 110 ft-lbs.
On two-wheel drive trucks, verify the ball will not interfere with the differential when loaded. On short beds, calculate turning clearance: (cab-to-ball distance) minus (half trailer width) minus (coupler overhang if any) must be positive. Check all fasteners are tight and the ball is not worn before each use.
Every 30 days or before use: lubricate the ball with silicone spray, keep the assembly clean, check all fasteners for proper torque and wear, and inspect the ball for wear. Do not tow with worn or damaged parts.
Before tightening the hitch hardware, ensure the center section is tight against the bottom of the truck bed. If it is not flush, the truck bed floor may have been distorted downward from heavy use. The manual recommends using a Curt C-606 Double Lock Gooseneck Install Tool to lift and hold the center section in place during installation, maintaining upward pressure to facilitate fastening. If you do not have this tool, you may need to use a jack or similar lifting device to raise the center section until it is flush with the bed before tightening the fasteners.
Slide the rear cross member rearward as far as possible while making sure the wiring harness does not get pinched or smashed. The cross member should rest on the frame and be suspended just above the frame cross member. If the harness is still being pinched, you may need to reposition it further toward the rear of the truck before installing the rear cross member. Before final tightening, verify that the rear cross member is centered across the frame and that the wiring harness is not pinched.
If your truck has dual exhaust, the installation is more difficult. Send the end of the center section without the spring over the axle first, from behind the rear axle with the bottom side facing the passenger side. Send the lead end of the center toward the front of the truck and to the passenger side far enough so the end of the center toward the rear of the truck will clear the exhaust. Once the hitch is clear of the exhaust, rotate and lift it so the 4-inch raised area is toward the bottom of the truck bed, then slide it rearward over the exhaust until the 4-inch cylinder is in the 4-inch hole in the truck bed. When installing the rear brace on the driver side, it may be helpful to pry the exhaust downward while installing the flange nut.
On the driver side, use the slot provided in the side plate to maneuver the first side plate around the brake lines and line up the holes with the u-bolt. The slot is designed to allow the side plate to be positioned without interfering with the brake lines. If additional clearance is needed, you may need to loosen or reposition the brake lines as noted in the installation warnings.
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