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CURT offers a variety of high-quality trailer hitches and accessories for select vehicle models. Find the perfect fit for your towing needs at TowUniverse.
CURT, a Lippert brand, offers a complete line of towing products and is the leading manufacturer of custom-fit trailer hitches. We offer the broadest selection of custom-fit hitches, and each one is designed, welded, and coated in Wisconsin.
CURT is also a leader in flat towing products, as well as 5th wheel, gooseneck, and weight distribution hitches, ball mounts, electrical components, cargo solutions, and other towing accessories.
For everything from passenger cars and vans to full-size pickups and SUVs, CURT is 'The First Name in Towing Products®.'
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1 compatible vehicles
| Year | Make & Model | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| 2020 - 2022 | Ford Escape | PHEV |
The Curt 56448 is a wiring converter system for SUVs and vans that converts vehicle taillight signals to a trailer connector format. It allows you to connect a trailer to your vehicle's existing lighting system. The product handles signal circuits (6.0 amps per side) and tail/running circuits (3.0 amps total).
The Curt 56448 is designed for SUVs and vans. The manual does not list specific vehicle models or years. Contact Curt Manufacturing or check a fitment database with your vehicle's year, make and model to confirm compatibility before purchasing.
No. The converter system is designed only for 12-volt negative ground electrical systems. It cannot be used on 24-volt systems or positive ground systems.
Required tools are: ratchet, 8mm socket, 10mm socket, socket extension, small flathead screwdriver, Torx bit T-25, trim panel removal tool, cutting tool, wire stripper, wire crimper, and electrical tape. Proper tools will improve installation quality and reduce time required.
The kit includes a black converter box, white ground wire with ring terminal, provided screw for grounding, double-sided tape for mounting the converter, sealant for sealing the grommet cut, cable ties for securing wires, a 4-flat dust cover, and a 15-amp fuse holder with fuse. The wiring harness includes yellow (left turn), green (right turn), red (brake), and brown (taillight) wires.
Yes. You must disconnect the negative battery terminal in the engine compartment on the driver side before beginning installation. Fasten this wire down and away from the battery while completing the installation. Reconnect it only after all other wiring steps are complete and the fuse is installed.
You must remove both taillights (using an 8mm socket), the floor board to access the spare tire, electrical components in the foam bins at the back of the rear seats, foam spare tire surrounds (four push fasteners, two per side), the scuff plate and threshold fasteners (two T-25 Torx screws and two push fasteners), and side-wall panels for access to the grommet behind each taillight.
Drilling may be required. You must locate a suitable grounding point near the converter box—either an existing screw with nut in the vehicle frame, or drill a 3/32" pilot hole if no existing point is available. Before drilling, check for miscellaneous items that may be hidden behind or under any surface to avoid damage and personal injury.
Yes. You must remove the grommet behind each taillight where the vehicle's taillight wiring passes through from inside the cabin to the taillight. Cut a slit large enough to route the new custom wiring end through. After inserting the wiring, reseat the grommet and use the provided sealant to seal the cut and around all wires.
The battery connection must be fuse-protected with a 15-amp maximum fuse. Do not exceed this rating. Exceeding the product rating or vehicle lamp load rating can cause loss of warranty, overheating and potential fire. Install the fuse after all other installation steps are complete.
Signal circuits are rated at 6.0 amps per side. Tail and running circuits are rated at 3.0 amps total. Do not exceed these product ratings or the tow vehicle lamp load rating, whichever is lower.
Use 12 GA (gauge) wire or larger for the power wire routed from the vehicle battery to the converter. Route the wire carefully to avoid pinch points and hot or rotating components. When passing the power wire through sheet metal, use an existing grommet, add a grommet, or use silicone to protect it from sharp edges.
Yellow wire = left turn signal; Green wire = right turn signal; Red wire = brake signal; Brown wire = taillight/running light. The white wire is the ground wire with a ring terminal for vehicle body connection.
Route the custom wiring end with yellow wires (driver side) out through the grommet opening and slit. Insert it between the separated taillight connectors, ensuring the connectors are fully inserted with locking tabs in place. Repeat on the passenger side with the green wire wiring end. Reseat the grommet and seal the cut with provided sealant.
Locate a flat spot inside the vehicle near the taillight and adhere the black converter box using the provided double-sided tape. The area should be clean and suitable for secure mounting.
Locate a suitable grounding point near the converter box—either an existing screw with nut in the vehicle frame, or drill a 3/32" pilot hole if necessary. The area must be free of rust, dirt and paint. Secure the white ground wire using the ring terminal and the provided screw.
When in use, route the 4-flat connector to the center of the vehicle and out of the trunk. When not in use, roll it up and store in a convenient, out-of-the-way location inside the trunk. Install the provided 4-flat dust cover to help prevent corrosion.
The installation difficulty is rated as Easy. However, installation difficulty levels are based on time and effort involved and may vary depending on the installer's level of expertise, the condition of the vehicle, and availability of proper tools and equipment.
Before drilling, check for miscellaneous items that may be hidden behind or under any surface to avoid damage and personal injury. This is especially important when drilling the 3/32" pilot hole for the ground wire screw.
Once the 12-volt power wire is connected to the harness, verify that the harness is functioning by attaching the battery and testing with a test light, 4-flat tester, or a functioning trailer. Do not exceed the product rating or vehicle lamp load rating during testing.
Periodic inspection of all wires and connections should be performed to ensure there is no visible damage or loose connections. Check the sealant around the grommet and wires for integrity, and verify that the converter box remains securely mounted with the double-sided tape.
The Curt 56448 is designed for SUVs and vans. Check your vehicle's year, make and model against a fitment database or contact Curt Manufacturing to confirm compatibility before purchasing.
No, the Curt 56448 is designed only for 12-volt negative ground systems.
Yes, disconnect the negative battery terminal before starting installation and reconnect it only after all wiring is complete and the fuse is installed.
The battery connection must use a 15-amp maximum fuse. Exceeding this rating can cause loss of warranty, overheating and potential fire.
Use 12 GA (gauge) wire or larger for the power wire from the vehicle battery to the converter.
Gross trailer weight (GTW) is 2,000 lbs. and tongue weight (TW) is 200 lbs. Never exceed your vehicle manufacturer's recommended towing capacity.
Required tools: ratchet, torque wrench, 3/4" socket, 10mm socket, 11mm socket, 6" socket extension, paint marker, die grinder, and 1/2" fishwire (qty. 4 included). A tools reference guide is available at curtmfg.com/trailer-hitch-installation.
Yes. The exhaust must be lowered during installation. Use an 11mm socket to remove the hose clip from the passenger side exhaust hanger stud, then remove the exhaust hanger bolts on both sides using a 10mm socket. Place jack stands or supports under the exhaust to prevent damage. The exhaust is reinstalled in Step 7.
Yes. The vehicle mounting holes must be enlarged using a die grinder. The hitch is temporarily positioned to align the rearmost mounting holes, then the forwardmost mounting holes are marked and enlarged with a die grinder.
All 1/2" hardware must be torqued to 110 ft-lb using a 3/4" socket.
Yes. The EVAP canister heat shield must be temporarily removed. Using a 10mm socket, remove the three fasteners on the driver side, remove the heat shield, and set it aside. The three 10mm nuts for the EVAP canister mounting bracket should be loosened (not removed) for additional clearance. The heat shield is reinstalled in Step 7.
The kit includes 4 carriage bolts (1/2"-13 x 1-1/4", grade 8), 4 serrated-flange nuts (1/2"-13), 4 square-hole spacers (1/4" x 1" x 2-1/2"), and 4 pieces of 1/2" fishwire.
The installation difficulty is rated as Easy. However, installation difficulty levels are based on time and effort involved and may vary depending on installer expertise, vehicle condition, and availability of proper tools and equipment.
The fishwire technique is used to guide the carriage bolts and spacers through the vehicle frame rails during mounting. The coiled end of the fishwire is inserted through the hitch mounting hole and out the access hole, passed through the spacer, and threaded into the bolt. The wire is kinked to keep the spacer separate from the bolt, then pulled to guide the hardware through the frame and out the mounting hole. This prevents loss of bolts or spacers inside the frame rail.
In Step 4, fishwire the 1" x 2-1/2" spacers and 1/2" carriage bolts through the enlarged hole and out the rearmost mounting hole on both sides. Then reverse fishwire the spacers and bolts in and out the enlarged forwardmost hole on both sides of the vehicle. The fishwire technique prevents bolts and spacers from being lost inside the frame rail.
After fishwiring the spacers and bolts in Step 4, raise the hitch into position in Step 5 and secure it using 1/2" flange nuts. Then torque all 1/2" hardware to 110 ft-lb using a 3/4" socket in Step 6.
In Step 3, temporarily raise the hitch into position, aligning the rearmost mounting holes of the hitch with the mounting holes in the vehicle frame. Use a paint marker to mark the location of the forwardmost mounting holes. Lower the hitch and enlarge the marked holes using a die grinder.
If contact occurs between the hitch and the exhaust heat shield, use a suitable pry tool to gently reshape the heat shield away from the hitch. Alternatively, as noted in Step 7, you may bend the trim of the EVAP canister heat shield to prevent contact with the hitch if necessary.
In Step 7, secure the EVAP canister that was loosened in Step 2 and reinstall the heat shield using the three 10mm bolts. Raise the exhaust into position and reinstall the bolts securing the exhaust hangers and hose clip that were removed in Step 1. Bend the trim of the EVAP canister heat shield if necessary to prevent contact with the hitch.
Safety glasses must be worn at all times during installation. When lowering the exhaust, place jack stands or other supports under the exhaust to prevent damage to the vehicle. Never exceed your vehicle manufacturer's recommended towing capacity when using the hitch.
Periodic inspection of the trailer hitch should be performed to ensure all mounting hardware remains tight and structural components are secure. To help prevent damage to the product or vehicle, refer to the specified torque specifications (110 ft-lb for all 1/2" hardware) when securing hardware.
Visit www.curtmfg.com for a full-color copy of the instruction manual, helpful videos, guides, and more. For product support, call 877.287.8634. For a tools reference guide, visit curtmfg.com/trailer-hitch-installation. For towing safety information, visit curtmfg.com/understanding-towing. To register your purchase or access warranty information, visit warranty.curtgroup.com/surveys.
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