19 - 24 Ford Edge CURT Trailer Brake Controller 7-Way Upgrade Kit 7WK808CURTOriginal price was $261.80. Current price is $239.85.In Stock
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| Material | Blank |
| Mount Type Description | Blank |
| Output Type | 4-Way Flat |
| Side Application Type Description | Blank |
| T-Connector Location | S1,S2 |
| Tail Light Circuits | 6 Amps |
| Turn and Brake Circuits | 3 Amps |
| Warranty | One-Year Limited Warranty |
| Battery-Powered | Yes |
| Converter Type | Circuit Protected, Powered, Potted |
| Electrical System Type | 3W |
| Finish | N/A |
CURT offers a variety of high-quality trailer hitches and accessories for select vehicle models. Find the perfect fit for your towing needs at TowUniverse.
CURT, a Lippert brand, offers a complete line of towing products and is the leading manufacturer of custom-fit trailer hitches. We offer the broadest selection of custom-fit hitches, and each one is designed, welded, and coated in Wisconsin.
CURT is also a leader in flat towing products, as well as 5th wheel, gooseneck, and weight distribution hitches, ball mounts, electrical components, cargo solutions, and other towing accessories.
For everything from passenger cars and vans to full-size pickups and SUVs, CURT is 'The First Name in Towing Products®.'
Experts available to answer your questions
Call 888-634-94941 compatible vehicles
| Year | Make & Model | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| 2019 | Ford Escape | Excluding S |
The 19 - 19 Ford Escape Excluding S CURT Trailer Brake Controller 7-Way Upgrade Kit 7WK816 (Part #7WK816) fits 2019 Ford Escape models. The 2019 model year is the last year covered by this part number. For newer models, check for an updated version.
Yes, the 19 - 19 Ford Escape Excluding S CURT Trailer Brake Controller 7-Way Upgrade Kit 7WK816 (Part #7WK816) is designed to fit the 2019 Ford Escape.
The 19 - 19 Ford Escape Excluding S CURT Trailer Brake Controller 7-Way Upgrade Kit 7WK816 (Part #7WK816) fits the following vehicles: 2019 Ford Escape. Always verify your specific year, make, and model before ordering.
The 19 - 19 Ford Escape Excluding S CURT Trailer Brake Controller 7-Way Upgrade Kit 7WK816 (Part #7WK816) Refer to the included instructions for installation details. Basic hand tools are typically all you need.
The kit includes: one 30 amp auto-resetting circuit breaker, two #10 ring terminals, two 3/8" ring terminals, two 1/2" ring terminals, three 12-10 gauge butt connectors, 10 feet of 10 ga black/white duplex wire, 20 feet of 10 ga blue cross-linked wire, and eight 8.5" cable ties.
Yes, but with a critical difference: these vehicles require the stop signal wire to be spliced to the light green wire on the turn signal harness connector under the dash, not to the brake pedal switch. Do NOT connect to the red wire with green stripe, as serious damage may occur. All other vehicles connect to the brake pedal switch instead.
You will need: a test light, wire stripper/cutter, crimp tool, and 3/8" box end wrench. The test light is used to identify the cold (switched) side of the brake pedal switch.
Yes. The manual cautions to disconnect the tow vehicle's negative battery cable before installation. Reconnect it only in the final step after all wiring is complete.
Mount the 30 amp circuit breaker near the tow vehicle's positive battery terminal. This keeps the power wire run as short as possible and protects the circuit.
Use 10 gauge (10 ga) black wire from the duplex wire included in the kit. Strip 3/8" of insulation from each end. Crimp a #10 ring terminal to the end that attaches to the circuit breaker stud labeled 'BAT', and a 3/8" or 1/2" ring terminal (sized to fit your battery terminal) to the end that attaches to the positive battery terminal.
Feed the 10 ga duplex wire from the brake controller in the cockpit through the firewall into the engine compartment toward the battery. Cut to length as needed. At the battery end, crimp a 3/8" or 1/2" ring terminal to the white wire and a #10 ring terminal to the black wire. Attach the black wire to the circuit breaker stud labeled 'AUX' and tighten the nut with a 3/8" box end wrench.
When passing the duplex wire through the firewall into the engine compartment, use an existing grommet, add a new grommet, or fill the hole with silicone rubber to insulate and protect the wire. The same protection applies when passing the blue cross-linked wire through any sheet metal at the rear of the vehicle.
In the cockpit, attach the black duplex wire to the brake controller's battery wire (typically black) and the white duplex wire to the brake controller's ground wire (typically white). Use either one of the supplied yellow butt connectors or solder the leads together and insulate with heat shrink tubing.
Locate the brake pedal switch on the back side of the vehicle's brake pedal. Use a test light or volt meter to identify the 'cold' or switched side—this terminal will only show power when the brake pedal is depressed. Attach the stop signal wire (typically red) from the brake controller to the cold side of the switch using a wire tap.
Locate the semi-circle turn signal harness connector on the steering column under the dash. It has two rows of wires: a row of four and a row of seven. Attach the stop signal wire (typically red) from the brake controller to the light green wire using a wire tap. Do NOT connect to the red wire with green stripe, as serious damage may occur.
Feed the 10 ga blue cross-linked wire from the brake controller to the trailer connector at the rear of the vehicle, taking up any slack in the wire. When passing through any sheet metal, use an existing grommet, add a new grommet, or fill the hole with silicone rubber to protect the wire.
Attach the blue cross-linked wire to the brake controller's electric brake wire (typically blue) using one of the supplied yellow butt connectors or by soldering and insulating with heat shrink tubing. At the rear of the vehicle, trim any loose blue wire and attach it to the trailer connector's electric brake terminal. Refer to the trailer connector's wiring diagram for the correct terminal location.
Secure any loose wires with the cable ties provided. Connect the black power wire from the circuit breaker to the positive side of the battery. Connect the white ground wire from the brake controller to the negative side of the battery. Finally, reconnect the tow vehicle's negative battery cable to the battery.
The circuit breaker is 30 amps and auto-resetting. It must be mounted near the positive battery terminal and connected directly to the positive battery terminal via the included black 10 gauge wire.
Use a 3/8" box end wrench to tighten the nuts on the circuit breaker studs labeled 'BAT' and 'AUX'.
The kit includes 10 feet of 10 gauge black/white duplex wire for the battery and brake controller connections, and 20 feet of 10 gauge blue cross-linked wire for the electric brake signal to the trailer connector.
Black wire connects to the positive battery and circuit breaker. White wire connects to the brake controller ground and negative battery. Red wire is the stop signal wire from the brake controller. Blue wire is the electric brake signal wire. The manual notes these are 'typically' these colours but recommends confirming with your brake controller documentation.
Yes. You can solder the leads together and insulate with heat shrink tubing as an alternative to using the supplied yellow butt connectors. This applies to connections between the duplex wire and the brake controller wires, and between the blue cross-linked wire and the brake controller.
The black power wire must connect directly to the positive battery terminal via the 30 amp circuit breaker. Connecting to the fuse panel or any other accessory wiring may damage vehicle wiring and cause trailer brake failure. The circuit breaker protects the circuit and must be the only protection between the battery and the brake control system.
Do NOT connect the stop signal wire to the red wire with green stripe on the turn signal harness. Serious damage may occur. Connect only to the light green wire. Also, do not connect to the brake pedal switch on these vehicles; use the turn signal harness instead.
The kit is universal but requires an existing trailer connector and brake controller. 1989-1991 Ford E & F-Series with ABS use a different stop signal connection (turn signal harness instead of brake pedal switch). Consult your brake controller documentation for compatibility.
No drilling is required. The kit connects to existing components: the battery, brake controller, brake pedal switch (or turn signal harness on 1989-1991 Ford E & F-Series with ABS), and trailer connector.
Do NOT connect the stop signal wire to the red wire with green stripe on the turn signal harness—serious damage may occur. Connect to the light green wire instead, and do not use the brake pedal switch.
Connecting to the fuse panel or accessory wiring may damage vehicle wiring and cause trailer brake failure. The 30 amp circuit breaker must be the only protection between the battery and the brake control system.
The CURT 56432 is a powered converter lead system designed for SUVs and vans. It converts the vehicle's factory taillight signals into a 4-flat trailer connector, allowing you to tow a trailer with proper lighting. The system includes a converter box, wiring harness with color-coded wires (yellow for left turn, green for right turn, red for brake, brown for taillight), and all necessary hardware for installation.
The CURT 56432 is designed for SUVs and vans with 12-volt negative ground electrical systems. Your vehicle must have this type of electrical system for the converter to function properly. Consult your vehicle owner's manual to confirm your vehicle has a 12-volt negative ground system before purchasing.
Required tools are: ratchet, 8mm and 10mm sockets, socket extension, wire crimper, wire stripper, T-25 Torx bit, cutting tool, small flathead screwdriver, panel trim removal tool, and electrical tape. A drill with a 3/32-inch bit may be needed if you do not have an existing fastener for the ground connection.
Yes. You must disconnect the negative battery terminal before beginning installation. Locate the battery using your vehicle owner's manual, disconnect the negative terminal, and fasten this wire down and away from the battery. Reconnect it only after all other installation steps are complete and you have verified the harness is functioning with a test light or trailer.
Installation follows this sequence: (1) disconnect negative battery terminal; (2) remove taillight fastener covers and fasteners from both taillights; (3) disconnect taillights from electrical harness; (4) remove trunk floor coverings and disconnect electrical components in foam bins; (5) remove foam bins using panel trim removal tool; (6) remove scuff plate using T-25 Torx bit and panel trim removal tool; (7) loosen side wall panels and rubber grommet on driver side; (8) cut grommet and route yellow T-connector wire through hole to factory wiring; (9) mount converter box using double-sided tape and secure ground wire; (10) seal grommet with silicone sealant and repeat steps 7-10 on passenger side with green wire; (11) route black power wire from battery, verify function, and reconnect battery.
Open the vehicle hatch. Using a small flathead screwdriver, remove the two fastener covers in the taillights. Using an 8mm socket, remove the two fasteners from the taillight. Carefully pull the taillight straight back from the vehicle. Disconnect the taillight from the electrical harness and set aside. You may need to use a paint-safe trim removal tool to help loosen the taillight from the vehicle body. Repeat this process on the other side.
Remove all trunk floor coverings to expose the spare tire. In the foam bins at the back of the rear seats, disconnect the electrical components. Remove the four push fasteners (two per side) in the foam bins using a panel trim removal tool and remove the foam bins. Using a T-25 Torx bit, remove two screw fasteners in the scuff plate. Using a panel trim removal tool, remove two push fasteners in the scuff plate. Remove the scuff plate by pulling straight up. This exposes the interior wiring routing areas.
Drilling may be required. You must locate a grounding point near the converter box, such as an existing screw or bolt in the vehicle frame. If no existing fastener is available, you will need to drill a 3/32-inch pilot hole. The area must be free from rust, dirt, and paint; use an abrasive pad or paper to clean it. Before drilling, check for miscellaneous items that may be hidden behind or under any surface to avoid damage and personal injury.
Yes. Using a wire cutter, carefully cut the rubber grommet located behind the taillight on the driver side. After routing the T-connector end with the yellow wire through the grommet hole and plugging it into the factory wiring, reinstall the grommet into the hole and use the provided silicone sealant to seal the cut. Repeat this process on the passenger side with the green wire.
Mount the black converter box using the provided double-sided tape on a flat, clean surface that is out of the path of spray and debris from the rear wheels and road. Failure to mount the box in a protected area can cause loss of warranty, product failure, overheating, and potential fire. The converter box should be located near a suitable grounding point such as an existing screw or bolt in the vehicle frame.
Locate a grounding point near the converter box such as an existing screw or bolt in the vehicle frame. The area should be free from rust, dirt, and paint; use an abrasive pad or paper to remove rust and paint. If no existing fastener is available, drill a 3/32-inch pilot hole. Secure the white ground wire with the ring terminal on the existing fastener or with the provided ground screw.
The CURT 56432 uses the following color-coded wires: yellow for left turn signal, green for right turn signal, red for brake signal, and brown for taillight (running lights). The T-connector end with the yellow wire connects to the driver side factory wiring, and the custom wiring harness end with the green wire routes to the passenger side. The black power wire connects to the vehicle battery positive terminal, and the white ground wire connects to the vehicle frame.
Route the black 12-gauge power wire from the vehicle battery as shown in the manual, taking care to avoid any pinch points and hot or rotating components. When passing the power wire through sheet metal, use an existing grommet, add a grommet, or use silicone to protect the power wire from sharp edges. Secure the power wire to the vehicle chassis using the provided cable ties. Use a ring terminal for the battery connection. The battery connection must be fuse-protected with a 10-amp maximum fuse; install the fuse after all other steps are complete. Do not exceed the product rating or tow vehicle lamp load rating, whichever is lower.
The battery connection must be fuse-protected with a 10-amp maximum fuse. Exceeding this rating can cause loss of warranty, overheating, and potential fire. Install the fuse after all other installation steps are complete.
The CURT 56432 has the following electrical ratings: signal circuits (left and right turn) are rated at 3.0 amps per side, and tail/running circuits are rated at 6.0 amps total. Do not exceed the product rating or the tow vehicle lamp load rating, whichever is lower.
When in use, route the 4-flat connector to the center of the vehicle and out of the trunk. When not in use, roll it up and store in a convenient, out-of-the-way location inside the trunk. Secure any loose wires with the provided cable ties.
Once the 12-volt power wire is connected to the harness, verify that the harness is functioning by attaching the battery and testing with a test light, 4-flat tester, or a functioning trailer. This should be done before completing the final installation steps and reconnecting the negative battery terminal.
After verifying the harness is functioning with a test light or trailer, reinstall all items removed during installation. If the negative battery terminal was disconnected at the beginning, reconnect it. Install the provided 4-flat dust cover to help prevent corrosion. Secure any loose wires with the provided cable ties.
Periodic inspection of all wires and connections should be performed to ensure there is no visible damage or loose connections. This helps maintain proper function and prevent electrical issues.
Do not exceed the product rating or tow vehicle lamp load rating, whichever is lower. The battery connection must be fuse-protected with a 10-amp maximum fuse; exceeding the product rating can cause loss of warranty, overheating, and potential fire. Mount the converter box in a protected area away from spray and debris from rear wheels and road; failure to do so can cause loss of warranty, product failure, overheating, and potential fire. Before drilling, check for miscellaneous items that may be hidden behind or under any surface to avoid damage and personal injury. Route the power wire to avoid pinch points and hot or rotating components. Use the converter only on 12-volt negative ground systems.
The CURT 56432 installation is rated as moderate difficulty. While it does not require professional installation, it involves multiple steps including battery disconnection, taillight removal, interior panel removal, grommet cutting, drilling (potentially), and wiring connections. Proper tools and careful attention to all instructions are required for successful installation.
The CURT 56432 is designed for SUVs and vans with 12-volt negative ground electrical systems. Confirm your vehicle has this electrical system in your owner's manual before purchasing.
Yes, you must disconnect the negative battery terminal before starting installation and reconnect it only after verifying the harness functions with a test light or trailer.
The battery connection must use a 10-amp maximum fuse. Exceeding this can cause loss of warranty, overheating, and potential fire.
Do not exceed product rating. Use 10-amp maximum fuse. Mount converter in protected area away from spray and debris. Check for hidden items before drilling. Route power wire away from pinch points and hot components.
The 4-way flat electrical adapter converts a vehicle's 4-way flat trailer connector to other trailer connector types (6-way round, 7-way RV blade, or dual 4-way flat). This allows you to tow trailers with different connector styles. Single-output models (57184, 57183, 57185, 57626, 57676) convert to one connector type; dual-output models (57604, 57624, 57672, 57674, 57102) provide two different connector outputs simultaneously.
Yes. Your vehicle must be equipped with a 4-way flat trailer connector. If your vehicle does not have one, you will need to install a custom wiring harness or other 4-way flat trailer connector before installing this adapter.
Both convert a 4-way flat connector to a 7-way RV blade. The difference is that 57185 includes a mounting bracket, while 57184 does not.
Both convert a 4-way flat connector to a 6-way round. The difference is that 57626 includes a mounting bracket, while 57183 does not.
Curt offers three dual-output models that provide both a 4-way flat and a 7-way RV blade output: part numbers 57672, 57674, and 57102. All three include a mounting bracket.
Curt offers two dual-output models that provide both a 4-way flat and a 6-way round output: part numbers 57604 and 57624. Both include a mounting bracket.
You will need: a 1/8" drill bit, drill, Phillips screwdriver, wire stripper, cutting tool, terminal crimpers, and a test light. The manual also lists three self-tapping screws (#10 - 1/2") as required, though these are not included with the product.
No. The three self-tapping screws (#10 - 1/2") used to attach the mounting bracket are not included and must be purchased separately.
Mount the combination harness in a location on the tow vehicle that is within reach of the trailer's wiring harness and near the center of the vehicle. The mounting bracket (if included) should be attached to the vehicle's bumper or other suitable surface.
Yes. You must drill two 1/8" holes: one for the grounding point and one (or more) for the mounting bracket. Before drilling, you must check for brake lines, fuel lines, wiring and other components that may be hidden behind or under the surface to avoid damage.
No. You must never attach the mounting bracket directly to the hitch by cutting, welding or drilling into the hitch. Mount it to the vehicle's bumper or other suitable surface instead.
The adapter uses four wires: Yellow (auxiliary or back-up lights), Blue (electric brakes), Black (positive power with appropriate inline fuse), and White (ground). All wires except black and white must be connected using 12 gauge (minimum) wire and butt connectors to the appropriate vehicle functions.
The white wire is the ground connection. It must be attached with a ring terminal to a 1/8" hole drilled in a suitable grounding point on the vehicle using a #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screw. This ground connection is required for the harness to work properly. The white wire on the vehicle's 4-way flat connector does not support the ground (-) functions of the combination harness.
Yes. The black wire (positive power) must be connected with an appropriate inline fuse. The manual does not specify the fuse amperage rating.
Use 12 gauge (minimum) wire for all connections. The manual specifies this minimum gauge for the remaining wires (yellow, blue, and black) when connecting to appropriate vehicle functions.
Failing to properly ground the product can cause loss of warranty, overheating and potential fire. The white wire must be securely attached to a clean grounding point using a #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screw in a 1/8" hole. The area must be clean of dirt, debris or undercoating.
Before drilling, you must check for brake lines, fuel lines, wiring and any other components that may be hidden behind or under the surface. Drilling into these components can cause damage and personal injury.
Do not exceed the product rating or the tow vehicle lamp load rating, whichever is lower. Exceeding either rating can cause damage or unsafe operation.
Confirm proper function with a test light or by using a properly functioning trailer. This verifies that all connections are working correctly before towing.
Secure any loose wires using cable ties or equivalent product to prevent them from moving, catching on components, or becoming damaged.
Your vehicle must have a 4-way flat trailer connector. If it does not, you will need to install a custom wiring harness or other 4-way flat connector first. Check the part number table to confirm the adapter converts to the connector type you need.
You must purchase three #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screws for the mounting bracket. You will also need an appropriate inline fuse for the black (positive power) wire; the manual does not specify the amperage.
Yes, you must drill two 1/8" holes: one for grounding and one for the mounting bracket. Before drilling, check for brake lines, fuel lines and wiring behind the surface. Never drill into the hitch.
Yellow = auxiliary/back-up lights; Blue = electric brakes; Black = positive power (needs inline fuse); White = ground (must be properly grounded or warranty is void and fire risk exists). Use 12 gauge minimum wire and butt connectors.
Proper grounding of the white wire is critical. Failing to ground it properly can cause loss of warranty, overheating and fire. The grounding point must be clean of dirt, debris and undercoating.
Test with a test light or by using a properly functioning trailer to confirm all connections work. Secure loose wires with cable ties.
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