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Complete CURT Class 3 2" trailer hitch and 4-flat custom wiring kit engineered for the 2014 - 2021 Jeep Grand Cherokee Excluding SRT, SRT8 or Trackhawk. Vehicle-specific fit, plug-and-play installation, all hardware and instructions included.
This custom kit fits the following vehicles:
All Hardware and Installation Instructions Included!
Whatever your task at hand -- whether it's launching that boat before daybreak, setting up your camper before the rush or getting a final load to the dump before close -- CURT class 3 trailer hitches offer the strength needed for serious towing. They make it easy to hitch up and Bring It, offering a vehicle-specific fit and the weight capacity to handle a variety of trailers. Custom class 3 hitches are the most common type of receiver hitch for pickup trucks and SUVs. Because of their weight range, they are also found on full-size cars, crossovers and minivans. Each custom-fit class 3 hitch package is made for vehicle-specific mounting. This particular kit fits certain years of the Dodge Durango and Jeep Grand Cherokee WK2 (see application info to verify vehicle compatibility). It provides a weight carrying capacity of 6,000 lbs. GTW and 600 lbs. TW. It is also compatible with a weight distribution hitch for level towing and a rating of 7,500 lbs. WD and 750 lbs. WDTW. CURT class 3 trailer hitches are typically used to attach and haul utility trailers, boat trailers, campers, snowmobile or ATV haulers and more (NOTE: Never exceed the lowest-rated towing component). Each class 3 hitch has a 2" receiver tube and is tested in accordance with SAE J684 for safety. To ensure that CURT class 3 receiver hitches have what it takes for serious trailering, they are designed using a hands-on approach and are constructed with rugged, high-strength steel and precise welding. We also protect our class 3 hitches in a co-cured finish of liquid A-coat and black powder coat for superior resistance to rust, chipping and UV damage.
If your vehicle is not equipped with wiring for towing a trailer, CURT custom wiring is the ideal solution. A custom wiring harness -- also called a T-connector -- is a simple, plug-and-play electrical device that plugs into your automotive electric system and provides a standard, universal trailer wiring connection. This is done using two or more vehicle-specific, OEM-compatible connectors to plug into the taillight assembly, eliminating the need for cutting, splicing and soldering during installation. Custom wiring harnesses are made vehicle-specific, and while they are not available for all vehicles, they do offer one of the fastest, easiest and most secure ways to wire a vehicle for towing. This particular plug-in harness provides a 4-way flat connector socket and is designed to be a custom wiring harness to fit certain years of the Jeep Grand Cherokee (to verify your vehicle compatibility, see application info). It comes with all necessary wiring components to establish a reliable trailer wiring connection, as well as a dust cover to keep the connector clean when not in use. You have a picture in mind of your next destination -- maybe it's the boat landing at your favorite fishing spot, maybe it's a campsite that overlooks one of nature's masterpieces, or maybe it's the next big jobsite. However, turning that picture into a reality takes more than just daydreaming. It takes a solid connection and the right amount of power. CURT custom wiring is made with some of the most sophisticated technology in the industry and is designed to install with ease, giving you a long-lasting electrical connection for your towing hitch setup.

CURT offers a variety of high-quality trailer hitches and accessories for select vehicle models. Find the perfect fit for your towing needs at TowUniverse.
CURT, a Lippert brand, offers a complete line of towing products and is the leading manufacturer of custom-fit trailer hitches. We offer the broadest selection of custom-fit hitches, and each one is designed, welded, and coated in Wisconsin.
CURT is also a leader in flat towing products, as well as 5th wheel, gooseneck, and weight distribution hitches, ball mounts, electrical components, cargo solutions, and other towing accessories.
For everything from passenger cars and vans to full-size pickups and SUVs, CURT is 'The First Name in Towing Products®.'
Experts available to answer your questions
Call 888-634-94941 compatible vehicles
| Year | Make & Model | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| 2014 - 2021 | Jeep Grand Cherokee | Excluding SRT, SRT8 or Trackhawk |
Yes, this CURT Class 3 hitch kit (Part #13182) is specifically designed for 2014-2021 Jeep Grand Cherokee models, so your 2021 will be a perfect fit. Just make sure your Grand Cherokee isn't an SRT, SRT8, or Trackhawk variant, as those high-performance models are excluded from this application. The kit includes everything you need - the 2" receiver hitch, mounting hardware, and 4-way flat wiring harness.
This kit fits 2014-2021 Jeep Grand Cherokee models, excluding the SRT, SRT8, and Trackhawk variants. It's engineered with a vehicle-specific design for these particular Grand Cherokee years, ensuring a custom fit with proper mounting points. The kit provides a complete towing solution with both the Class 3 hitch and 4-flat wiring harness designed specifically for your Grand Cherokee.
Absolutely! This CURT Class 3 hitch kit is designed for 2014-2021 Jeep Grand Cherokee models, so your 2018 falls right in the compatibility range. As long as your Grand Cherokee isn't an SRT, SRT8, or Trackhawk model, you're all set. You'll get the full 6,000 lbs gross trailer weight capacity and 600 lbs tongue weight rating with this setup.
The installation is quite straightforward since this is a custom-fit kit designed specifically for your Grand Cherokee. The wiring harness uses a simple plug-and-play design that connects directly to your taillight assembly - no cutting, splicing, or soldering required. Both the hitch and wiring come with complete installation instructions and all necessary mounting hardware, making it a manageable DIY project with basic hand tools.
The CURT 13182 has a gross trailer weight (GTW) capacity of 6,000 lbs and a tongue weight (TW) capacity of 600 lbs for conventional towing. For weight distribution towing, the capacity is 7,500 lbs GTW with a weight distribution tongue weight (WDTW) of 750 lbs.
No. The CURT 13182 uses existing vehicle fasteners and weldnuts. No drilling is required.
Yes, the CURT 13182 is compatible with diesel vehicles. On diesel models, the DEF (diesel exhaust fluid) tank must be lowered during installation to access the passenger-side bolts. The DEF tank is then reinstalled and torqued after the hitch is mounted.
Required tools are: ratchet, torque wrench, 13mm socket, 21mm socket, utility knife, and safety glasses. A tools reference guide is available at curtmfg.com/trailer-hitch-installation.
The CURT 13182 uses existing vehicle hardware. Four M14 bolts are retained from the vehicle's existing fasteners and reused to mount the hitch. Any additional bolts removed are returned to the vehicle owner.
No. Do not remove the DEF tank filler pipe. The tank should be free to rotate slightly downward on the passenger side to access the bolts and weldnuts, but the filler pipe must remain attached.
The DEF tank may weigh as much as 80 lbs. It is highly recommended that the tank is well supported before removing its fasteners to prevent damage and ensure safety during the installation process.
On diesel models: (1) Lower the DEF tank by unclipping the electrical connection and removing the two rear stud posts and two forward hex bolts using a 13mm socket. (2) Remove the existing M14 bolts from the frame (four or six depending on vehicle model) and retain four for hitch installation. Remove any factory tow loop and trim excess caulk if needed. (3) Raise the hitch into position and reinstall the four M14 bolts, tightening to 126 ft-lbs. (4) Reinstall the DEF tank, torquing studs to 21 lb-ft and hex bolts to 24 lb-ft. On non-diesel models, skip the DEF tank steps.
There will be either four or six M14 bolts depending on the vehicle model. You will retain four bolts for hitch installation and return any remaining bolts to the vehicle owner.
If a factory tow loop is present on your vehicle, you will need to remove it prior to hitch installation.
Some trimming of excess caulk on the vehicle frame rails may be required if it interferes with the hitch installation. Use a utility knife to trim as needed.
All M14 hitch mounting bolts must be tightened to 126 ft-lbs.
On diesel models, torque the DEF tank studs to 21 lb-ft and the DEF tank hex bolts to 24 lb-ft.
To remove debris from weldnuts in the frame, spray lubricant or compressed air into the hole. For heavy debris, use a wire brush. Take care not to damage the threads.
Safety glasses must be worn at all times while installing this product. Never exceed the vehicle manufacturer's recommended towing capacity. The DEF tank on diesel models must be well supported before removing fasteners as it may weigh up to 80 lbs.
Periodic inspection of the trailer hitch should be performed to ensure all mounting hardware remains tight and structural components are secure.
The CURT 13182 is rated as Easy difficulty level. However, on diesel models, the DEF tank must be lowered and well supported (it may weigh up to 80 lbs), so assistance or proper equipment may be helpful.
The CURT 56426 is a powered converter wiring harness designed for SUVs and vans. It converts factory taillight signals into a 4-flat trailer connector, allowing you to tow a trailer with standard lighting. The system uses a converter box that processes the vehicle's existing taillight signals (left turn, right turn, brake, and tail/running lights) and outputs them to a 4-flat connector for the trailer.
The CURT 56426 is designed for SUVs and vans using wiring locations S1 and S2 (behind driver and passenger side taillights). It requires a 12-volt negative ground electrical system. Check your vehicle owner's manual to confirm it has a 12-volt negative ground system. For specific vehicle model compatibility, contact CURT or consult a fitment database, as the manual does not list individual vehicle years and models.
No. The converter system is designed only for 12-volt negative ground systems. If your vehicle has a positive ground system, this product is not compatible. Check your vehicle owner's manual to confirm your electrical system type.
You will need: panel trim removal tool, wire crimper, cutting tool, wire stripper, and fish wire. These are standard electrical and trim tools. The manual notes that proper tools will improve installation quality and reduce time required. Some steps may also require a drill with a 3/32" bit if you need to create a grounding point on the vehicle frame.
The kit includes: custom wiring harness with yellow and green wire ends, black converter box, double-sided tape for mounting the converter box, cable ties for securing wires, white ground wire with ring terminal, ground screw, 4-flat dust cover, and a fuse holder with 10-amp fuse. The fuse should be installed after all other installation steps are complete.
Yes. Step 1 requires you to disconnect the negative battery terminal before beginning installation. Be sure to fasten this wire down and away from the battery during the installation process. Reconnect the negative battery terminal only after all other installation steps are complete and before testing the system.
Open the vehicle hatch and use the panel trim removal tool to remove the push fasteners securing the taillight in place. Carefully pull the taillight straight back from the vehicle. Separate all three connectors, taking care not to damage the locking tabs on the factory wiring. Repeat this process on both the driver and passenger sides.
The fish wire is used to route the custom wiring harness down between the vehicle body and the bumper cover. You secure the custom wiring harness end to the fish wire and pull the harness up through the opening. This allows you to run the wiring without removing the bumper. You may need to flex the bumper cover slightly to get the harness connectors through the opening.
Insert the custom wiring harness end (yellow wire for driver side, green wire for passenger side) fully into the factory wiring connector. Make sure the connectors are fully inserted with the locking tabs in place. The locking tabs secure the connection and prevent accidental disconnection.
Locate a flat, clean surface that is out of the path of spray and debris from the rear wheels and road. Mount the black converter box using the provided double-sided tape. Failure to mount the box in a protected area can cause loss of warranty, product failure, overheating and potential fire. The box must be positioned where it will not be exposed to water spray or road debris.
Locate a grounding point near the converter box, such as an existing screw or bolt in the vehicle frame. The area should be free from rust, dirt, and paint—use an abrasive pad or paper to clean it if necessary. Secure the white ground wire with its ring terminal to the existing fastener, or drill a 3/32" pilot hole and use the provided ground screw. Before drilling, check for hidden items behind or under any surface to avoid damage.
Route the black 12-gauge power wire from the vehicle battery to the converter box, taking care to avoid pinch points and hot or rotating components. When passing the power wire through sheet metal, use an existing grommet, add a new grommet, or use silicone to protect the wire from sharp edges. Secure the power wire to the vehicle chassis using the provided cable ties. The power wire must be connected to the positive battery terminal through a fuse holder with a 10-amp fuse (install the fuse after all other steps are complete).
Use 12-gauge wire or larger for the power connection from the vehicle battery to the converter box. The manual specifies "12 GA wire or larger" on the powered converter lead instruction sheet.
The wiring harness uses the following color scheme: Yellow = Left turn signal, Green = Right turn signal, Red = Brake signal, Brown = Tail/Running lights. The custom harness ends are color-coded: yellow for the driver side and green for the passenger side. The converter box outputs these signals to the 4-flat trailer connector.
The battery connection must be fuse-protected with a 10-amp maximum fuse. Do not exceed this rating. Exceeding the product rating can cause loss of warranty, overheating and potential fire. Install the fuse after all other installation steps are complete.
Signal circuits (left and right turn signals) are rated at 3.0 amps per side. Tail and running light circuits are rated at 6.0 amps total. Do not exceed these ratings or the product rating, whichever is lower. Exceeding the product rating can cause loss of warranty, overheating and potential fire.
Before drilling any holes, check for miscellaneous items that may be hidden behind or under any surface to avoid damage and personal injury. When routing the power wire, avoid pinch points and hot or rotating components. Use an existing grommet, add a grommet, or use silicone when passing the power wire through sheet metal to protect it from sharp edges. Disconnect the negative battery terminal before beginning installation. Mount the converter box in a protected area away from wheel spray and debris to prevent overheating and fire.
Once the 12-volt power wire is connected to the harness, verify that the harness is functioning by attaching the battery and testing with a test light, 4-flat tester, or a functioning trailer. This confirms that all signal circuits (left turn, right turn, brake, and tail/running lights) are working correctly before using the system.
When not in use, roll up the 4-flat connector and store it in a convenient, out-of-the-way location inside the trunk. Install the provided 4-flat dust cover to help prevent corrosion. When in use, route the 4-flat to the center of the vehicle and out of the trunk.
Perform periodic inspection of all wires and connections to ensure there is no visible damage or loose connections. Check the converter box mounting to confirm the double-sided tape is still secure. Verify that cable ties are holding wires in place and that no wires have shifted or become pinched. If you notice any damage or loose connections, address them immediately to prevent electrical failure or fire hazard.
CURT Group stands behind their products with industry-leading warranties. To register your purchase and access warranty information, visit warranty.curtgroup.com/surveys. Warranty may be voided if the product rating is exceeded, if the battery connection fuse exceeds 10 amps, or if the converter box is not mounted in a protected area away from wheel spray and debris.
The CURT 56426 is designed for SUVs and vans with factory taillights at locations S1 and S2 (behind driver and passenger side taillights). It requires a 12-volt negative ground electrical system. Check your vehicle owner's manual to confirm compatibility, or contact CURT for specific vehicle model fitment.
Yes. Disconnect the negative battery terminal before beginning installation and reconnect it only after all other steps are complete. This is a required safety step.
Drilling is not required if you can locate an existing screw or bolt on the vehicle frame to ground the converter box. If no suitable grounding point exists, you will need to drill a 3/32" pilot hole. Before drilling, check for hidden items behind or under any surface to avoid damage.
The battery connection must use a 10-amp maximum fuse. Do not exceed this rating, as it can cause loss of warranty, overheating and potential fire.
Mount the converter box in a flat, clean, protected location away from wheel spray and debris. Use the provided double-sided tape. Failure to mount in a protected area can cause loss of warranty, product failure, overheating and potential fire.
First, verify that the negative battery terminal is reconnected and the 10-amp fuse is installed in the fuse holder. Check that all three factory taillight connectors are fully inserted with locking tabs in place on both the driver and passenger sides. Verify that the custom wiring harness ends (yellow and green) are fully inserted into the factory connectors. Test with a test light, 4-flat tester, or functioning trailer to confirm all signals are present. If signals are still absent, check that the converter box is properly mounted and the white ground wire is securely attached to a clean metal grounding point on the vehicle frame.
Check that all three factory taillight connectors are fully inserted with locking tabs in place. Verify that the custom wiring harness ends are fully seated in the factory connectors—a partially inserted connector will cause some signals to work and others to fail. Inspect all wire connections for damage or loose crimps. If only one side (driver or passenger) is not working, check that the fish wire routing was successful and that the harness end was pulled completely through the opening between the vehicle body and bumper cover. You may need to flex the bumper cover to ensure the connectors passed through fully.
Stop using the system immediately. Overheating can cause product failure and potential fire. Check that the converter box is mounted in a protected location away from wheel spray and debris as required in Step 5. If the box is mounted in an exposed location, remount it in a clean, protected area using new double-sided tape. Verify that the electrical load is not exceeding the product rating (3.0 amps per signal circuit, 6.0 amps total for tail/running circuits) or the tow vehicle lamp load rating. Ensure the 10-amp fuse is installed and has not blown. If overheating persists, the product may be defective and should be replaced.
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