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Complete CURT Class 1 1-1/4" trailer hitch and 4-flat custom wiring kit engineered for the 2019 - 2026 Mazda 3 Hatchback. Vehicle-specific fit, plug-and-play installation, all hardware and instructions included.
This custom kit fits the following vehicles:
All Hardware and Installation Instructions Included!
However you define adventure -- whether it's climbing onto the back of a mountain bike, hunting from the top of a tree stand or camping with the family a long way from nowhere -- CURT class 1 hitches provide a light-duty towing receiver to help you Bring It. Each is made to fit a specific vehicle, providing easier installation, a better fit and optimal towing capacity. Custom class 1 trailer hitches are available for a variety of smaller vehicle types, including the compact car, crossover, minivan and small SUV. This particular class 1 hitch is designed to be a custom hitch for certain years of the Mazda 3 hatchback (to verify vehicle compatibility, see the CURT application guide at curtmfg.com). Tested in accordance with SAE J684, it offers a weight carrying capacity of 2,000 lbs. GTW and 200 lbs. TW. It is equipped with 1-1/4" receiver tube opening to accept a ball mount shank or other hitch mount. This class 1 hitch also comes with all necessary mounting hardware. With its lightweight design and smaller receiver tube size, a class 1 hitch is especially useful for adding cargo space with a hitch-mounted bike rack or cargo carrier. They can also typically be used to tow small trailers such as a utility trailer, kayak trailer or teardrop camper (never exceed the lowest weight capacity of any towing component; i.e. the vehicle, hitch, trailer, etc). Though CURT class 1 trailer hitches are only intended for light-duty towing, we apply the same principles of quality as we do to the rest of our rear mount hitches. Each class 1 hitch is made with hands-on engineering, high-strength steel and precise welding. We use a co-cured finish of liquid A-coat, inside and out, and durable black powder coat to provide a lasting defense against rust, chips and UV rays.
If your vehicle is not equipped with wiring for towing a trailer, CURT custom wiring is the ideal solution. A custom wiring harness -- also called a T-connector -- is a simple, plug-and-play electrical device that plugs into your automotive electric system and provides a standard, universal trailer wiring connection. This is done using two or more vehicle-specific, OEM-compatible connectors to plug into the taillight assembly, eliminating the need for cutting, splicing and soldering during installation. Custom wiring harnesses are made vehicle-specific, and while they are not available for all vehicles, they do offer one of the fastest, easiest and most secure ways to wire a vehicle for towing. This particular plug-in harness provides a 4-way flat connector socket and is designed to be a custom wiring harness to fit certain years of the Mazda 3 (to verify your vehicle compatibility, see application info). It comes with all necessary wiring components to establish a reliable trailer wiring connection, as well as a dust cover to keep the connector clean when not in use. You have a picture in mind of your next destination -- maybe it's the boat landing at your favorite fishing spot, maybe it's a campsite that overlooks one of nature's masterpieces, or maybe it's the next big jobsite. However, turning that picture into a reality takes more than just daydreaming. It takes a solid connection and the right amount of power. CURT custom wiring is made with some of the most sophisticated technology in the industry and is designed to install with ease, giving you a long-lasting electrical connection for your towing hitch setup.
CURT offers a variety of high-quality trailer hitches and accessories for select vehicle models. Find the perfect fit for your towing needs at TowUniverse.
CURT, a Lippert brand, offers a complete line of towing products and is the leading manufacturer of custom-fit trailer hitches. We offer the broadest selection of custom-fit hitches, and each one is designed, welded, and coated in Wisconsin.
CURT is also a leader in flat towing products, as well as 5th wheel, gooseneck, and weight distribution hitches, ball mounts, electrical components, cargo solutions, and other towing accessories.
For everything from passenger cars and vans to full-size pickups and SUVs, CURT is 'The First Name in Towing Products®.'
Experts available to answer your questions
Call 888-634-94941 compatible vehicles
| Year | Make & Model | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| 2019 - 2026 | Mazda 3 | Hatchback |
The 19 - 24 Mazda 3 Hatchback Curt 1-1/4", Class 1 Trailer Tow Hitch + 4-flat Wiring Kit 11633 (Part #CHW-2217) fits 2019-2024 Mazda 3 models. The 2024 model year is the last year covered by this part number. For newer models, check for an updated version.
The 19 - 24 Mazda 3 Hatchback Curt 1-1/4", Class 1 Trailer Tow Hitch + 4-flat Wiring Kit 11633 (Part #CHW-2217) fits the following vehicles: 2019-2024 Mazda 3. Always verify your specific year, make, and model before ordering.
Yes, the 19 - 24 Mazda 3 Hatchback Curt 1-1/4", Class 1 Trailer Tow Hitch + 4-flat Wiring Kit 11633 (Part #CHW-2217) is designed to fit the 2019-2024 Mazda 3.
The 19 - 24 Mazda 3 Hatchback Curt 1-1/4", Class 1 Trailer Tow Hitch + 4-flat Wiring Kit 11633 (Part #CHW-2217) Refer to the included instructions for installation details. Basic hand tools are typically all you need.
Gross trailer weight (GTW) capacity is 2,000 lbs. Tongue weight (TW) capacity is 200 lbs. Never exceed your vehicle manufacturer's recommended towing capacity.
The kit includes 4 carriage bolts (7/16"-14 UNC, 1-1/2"), 4 serrated flange nuts (7/16"-14 UNC), and 4 square-hole spacers (0.25" × 0.88" × 2.25"). The manual also references 4 fishwire tools included with the product.
Required tools: ratchet, die grinder, 10mm and 17mm sockets, socket extension (6"), flathead screwdriver, exhaust removal pliers (or 5/8" open-end wrench as alternative), torque wrench, and 7/16" fishwire (4 included). A full tools reference guide is available at curtmfg.com/trailer-hitch-installation.
Yes. If exhaust removal pliers are not available, use a 5/8" open-end wrench instead. Slide the wrench up to the rubber isolator, cradling the hanger rod. Place the flat edge of a pry bar between the wrench and the hanger stop or rod, then rotate the pry bar toward the wrench to remove the rubber isolator. Using lubricant or soapy water on the hanger rod and isolator helps removal.
Moderate. Installation difficulty is based on time and effort involved and may vary depending on installer expertise, vehicle condition, and availability of proper tools and equipment.
Yes. Remove four rivets from the underbody panel using a flathead screwdriver, then use a 10mm socket to remove two screws. Depress a small plastic tab to release the panel from the vehicle. The panel should be returned to the vehicle owner after installation.
The exhaust does not need to be fully removed, but it must be lowered. Remove the four rearmost rubber hangers (two on each side) to lower the exhaust. Be sure to support the exhaust before removing the hangers. The exhaust is reinstalled in Step 8 after the hitch is mounted.
Yes. The access hole in each frame rail must be enlarged to approximately 1" diameter using a die grinder. This is required to allow the fishwire and hardware to pass through during installation.
Yes. The heat shield must be bent slightly away from the mounting area to avoid interference during installation. This is a minor modification performed in Step 4.
All 7/16" hardware (carriage bolts and serrated flange nuts) must be torqued to 59 ft-lbs. Use a torque wrench to ensure proper tightening and prevent damage to the product or vehicle.
The fishwire guides the 7/16" carriage bolts and square-hole spacers through the frame rail access holes without losing them inside the frame. Insert the coiled end of the fishwire through the hitch mounting hole and out the access hole. Pass the coiled end through the spacer and thread the bolt into the coil. Kink the wire to keep the spacer separate from the bolt. Pull the fishwire, spacer, and bolt through the frame and out the mounting hole. Leave the fishwire attached during hitch positioning, then remove it before securing with serrated flange nuts.
1. Remove underbody panel (rivets and screws). 2. Lower exhaust by removing four rearmost rubber hangers; support exhaust. 3. Enlarge access holes in frame rails to approximately 1" diameter using die grinder. 4. Bend heat shield away from mounting area. 5. Use fishwire to guide 7/16" carriage bolts with spacers through access holes; leave fishwire attached. 6. Raise hitch into position, feed fishwire through hitch slots, remove fishwire, and secure with serrated flange nuts. 7. Torque all 7/16" hardware to 59 ft-lbs. 8. Raise exhaust and reinstall rubber hangers.
After using fishwire to guide the carriage bolts and spacers through the frame rail access holes, raise the hitch into position. Feed each fishwire through the slots in the hitch. Remove the fishwire from the carriage bolts and secure the hitch to the vehicle frame with serrated flange nuts. Be careful not to push the hardware into the frame during this process.
Safety glasses must be worn at all times during installation. Support the exhaust before removing the rubber hangers to prevent it from dropping. Be careful not to push hardware into the frame during hitch mounting. Never exceed your vehicle manufacturer's recommended towing capacity when using the hitch.
Periodic inspection of the trailer hitch should be performed to ensure all mounting hardware remains tight and structural components are secure. The manual does not specify the inspection interval; contact CURT Product Support at 877.287.8634 for recommended maintenance schedules.
Gross trailer weight capacity is 2,000 lbs. with 200 lbs. tongue weight. Never exceed your vehicle manufacturer's recommended towing capacity, which may be lower than the hitch rating.
Yes. The 56435 is designed for both sedan and hatchback passenger cars with 12-volt negative ground electrical systems. Installation steps differ between body styles: hatchbacks follow steps 3A through 7A, and sedans follow steps 3B through 7B. Consult your vehicle owner's manual to confirm your vehicle has a 12-volt negative ground system before purchasing.
No. The converter system is designed only for 12-volt negative ground systems. Do not use on 24-volt systems or vehicles with positive ground electrical systems. Check your vehicle owner's manual to confirm the electrical system type before installation.
Signal circuits are rated at 5.0 amps per side. Tail and running circuits are rated at 7.5 amps total. Do not exceed the product rating or the tow vehicle lamp load rating, whichever is lower. Exceeding the product rating can cause loss of warranty, overheating, and potential fire.
Required tools are: ratchet, panel trim removal tool, 10 mm socket, socket extension, cutting tool, wire crimper, wire stripper, flathead screwdriver, and electrical tape. Proper tools will improve installation quality and reduce installation time.
Yes. Disconnect the negative battery terminal before beginning installation. Fasten this wire down and away from the battery during the installation process. Reconnect the negative battery terminal only after all other installation steps are complete and before testing the harness.
Open the vehicle trunk and remove the floor covering, rear cargo area cover, and both side covers. Remove the fasteners securing the rear scuff panel, then remove the scuff panel by pulling out on the bottom and then up. Take care not to damage the alignment tabs on the back.
The custom wiring end with the yellow wire connects between the separated driver-side taillight connectors. The custom wiring end with the green wire connects between the separated passenger-side taillight connectors. Both connectors must be fully inserted with locking tabs in place. Take care not to damage the locking tabs when separating the original connectors.
On the driver side, locate a flat spot behind the trunk liner. Adhere the black converter box using the provided double-sided tape. Ensure the surface is clean and dry before applying the tape for best adhesion.
12 gauge (12 GA) wire or larger is used for the power lead from the vehicle battery to the converter. Route this wire to the vehicle battery location, taking care to avoid pinch points and hot or rotating components.
A 15-amp maximum fuse is required. The battery connection must be fuse-protected with a 15-amp fuse holder. Install the fuse after all other installation steps are complete. Exceeding this fuse rating can cause loss of warranty, overheating, and potential fire.
Green = Right turn; Red = Brake; Yellow = Left turn; Brown = Taillight. These wires connect to the corresponding vehicle taillight circuits. If using the converter as a powered module for a two-wire system, the red brake wire must be grounded.
Attach the ring terminal of the white ground wire to the vehicle body using the screw provided. Drill a 3/32-inch hole if necessary. Ensure a clean, bare metal connection for proper grounding.
When not in use, roll up the 4-flat connector and store it in a convenient, out-of-the-way location inside the trunk. When in use, route the 4-flat to the center of the vehicle and out of the trunk. Install the provided 4-flat dust cover to help prevent corrosion.
When passing the power wire through sheet metal, use an existing grommet, add a new grommet, or use silicone to protect the power wire from sharp edges. This prevents the wire from being damaged and causing electrical shorts or fire.
Secure any loose wires with the provided cable ties. Route the black power wire to the vehicle battery location using cable ties to secure it to the vehicle chassis, keeping it away from pinch points and hot or rotating components.
Once the 12-volt power wire is connected to the harness, verify that the harness is functioning by attaching the battery and testing with a test light, 4-flat tester, or a functioning trailer. This confirms all circuits are working before final use.
Periodic inspection of all wires and connections should be performed to ensure there is no visible damage or loose connections. Check the 4-flat connector dust cover regularly to ensure it is in place and preventing corrosion.
The kit includes the custom wiring harness with yellow, green, red, and brown signal wires; a black converter box; a white ground wire with ring terminal; a black power wire; a 4-flat connector with dust cover; double-sided tape for mounting the converter box; cable ties for securing wires; a fuse holder with 15-amp fuse; and a mounting screw for the ground wire.
The 56435 fits passenger cars (sedans and hatchbacks) with 12-volt negative ground electrical systems. Check your vehicle owner's manual to confirm your electrical system type. Different installation steps apply to sedans versus hatchbacks.
You will need: ratchet, panel trim removal tool, 10 mm socket, socket extension, cutting tool, wire crimper, wire stripper, flathead screwdriver, and electrical tape.
Yes, disconnect the negative battery terminal before starting installation. Reconnect it only after all other steps are complete and before testing.
A 15-amp maximum fuse is required for the battery connection. Install the fuse after all other steps are complete.
12 gauge (12 GA) wire or larger is used for the power connection from the vehicle battery to the converter.
First, verify that the 12-volt power wire is properly connected to the positive battery terminal through the 15-amp fuse holder, and that the white ground wire is securely attached to the vehicle body with good metal-to-metal contact. Confirm that the yellow wire is fully inserted with locking tabs in place at the driver-side taillight connector, and the green wire is fully inserted at the passenger-side taillight connector. Test using a test light, 4-flat tester, or functioning trailer. Check that the negative battery terminal is reconnected. Inspect all wires and connections for visible damage or loose connections.
The manual warns to take care not to damage the locking tabs when separating the original taillight connectors from the taillight housing. If tabs are damaged, the connectors may not stay fully inserted, causing intermittent or complete loss of function. Consult the vehicle manufacturer or a professional installer for repair or replacement of the damaged connector assembly, as the manual does not provide a repair procedure.
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