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1995 - 2000 Ford Explorer
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These durable custom hitches are manufactured for 1991-2001 Ford Explorer, 2001-2003 Ford Explorer Sport, 1991-1994 Mazda Navajo, 1997-2001 Mercury Mountaineer and attach to your vehicle?s frame or bumper for a sleek, clean appearance. Each hitch also has a 2 inch square receiver tube opening ? the most common and versatile on the market - allowing you to attach accessories like a bike rack or cargo carrier, or hook up your pop-up, boat trailer, or utility trailer. The options are endless! DRAW-TITE Class 3 Custom Trailer Hitches come complete with all the mounting hardware needed for installation and are backed by a nationwide lifetime limited warranty. So, whether you are headed out to the campground, the lake, or the bike trails, or you are tackling a project at home and need to haul the materials home, choose DRAW-TITE and travel with confidence knowing your setup is connected with the security only DRAW-TITE can provide. DRAW-TITE: North America?s Favorite Hitch
Draw-Tite has designed custom-fit trailer hitches since 1946 and is one of North America's most widely fitted hitch brands. Receiver hitches use solid all-welded construction and low-profile designs that follow modern vehicle contours, install with minimal bumper cutting or drilling, meet or exceed V5 CSA and SAE J684 standards, and carry a limited lifetime warranty.
Draw-Tite has been leading custom-fit trailer hitch design and engineering since its founding in 1946, and it remains one of the most widely fitted hitch brands in North America. The company's stated approach is straightforward: every hitch is tested rigorously so that it performs well beyond published industry standards, a philosophy it markets as Tested Tough. It sits within the Horizon Global towing group alongside Reese, Fulton, Bulldog, Tekonsha, Bargman and Wesbar.
Custom fit is the defining characteristic. Rather than adapting a universal design, Draw-Tite engineers a trailer hitch for a specific make, model and model year, so it bolts to existing frame locations with minimal bumper cutting or drilling. Low-profile designs follow the rear contours and aerodynamic styling of modern vehicles, which matters more than it once did now that rear fascias are shaped and sensor-equipped. Construction is solid all-welded steel for maximum strength, and every hitch meets or exceeds V5 CSA and SAE J684 standards and is backed by a nationwide limited lifetime warranty.
The range spans receiver sizes and classes to suit different loads, from 1-1/4 inch receivers for bike racks, cargo carriers and light trailers up through 2 inch receivers for heavier towing. Front mount hitches add a receiver at the front of the vehicle for winch mounts, snow plows, spare carriers and precise trailer positioning.
The Hidden Hitch series takes concealment further by mounting behind the vehicle's rear fascia, so the vehicle keeps its factory appearance until a removable receiver is fitted. Each is custom designed per make and model for a no-drill installation that does not compromise ground clearance, rated for up to 3,500 pounds gross trailer weight and 350 pounds tongue weight. Matching plug-and-play wiring completes the towing system.
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Call 888-634-94941 compatible vehicles
| Year | Make & Model | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| 1995 - 2000 | Ford Explorer | — |
Yes, part number 75083 is designed for Ford Explorer, Mazda Navajo, and Mercury Mountaineer. However, it will not fit with a 16" spare tire on 1998 and later models. If your vehicle has a 16" spare tire and is a 1998 or later model, this hitch is not compatible.
No. The manual states that this hitch will not fit with a 16" spare tire on 1998 and later models. If your vehicle has a 16" spare tire, you will need a different hitch model.
The maximum towing capacity depends on the hitch type used. A Weight Distributing hitch has a maximum gross trailer weight of 6000 lb (2724 kg) and maximum tongue weight of 600 lb (272 kg). A Weight Carrying Ball Mount has a maximum gross trailer weight of 5000 lb (2270 kg) and maximum tongue weight of 500 lb (227 kg). Do not exceed the lower of the towing vehicle manufacturer's rating or the hitch type rating.
You will need wrenches in sizes 13/16", 7/8", and 15/16", a 1/2" drill bit (for 1994 and prior models only), and a torque wrench. The fastener kit F75083 is also required and should be included with the hitch.
The fastener kit F75083 includes: 2 carriage bolts 1/2-13 X 1.75, 2 bolts 9/16-12 X 2.00, 2 blocks (type 6), 2 blocks (type 3), 2 conical washers 1/2", 2 lock washers 9/16", 2 hex nuts 1/2-13, and 2 hex nuts 9/16-12. These fasteners are typical for both sides of the installation.
Yes. Step 1 of the installation instructions states: "Remove tow hooks, (if equipped) from vehicle frame and return to owner for reinstallation if hitch is removed from vehicle." If your vehicle has tow hooks, they must be removed before proceeding with hitch installation.
Drilling is required only for 1994 and prior models. For these vehicles, you must use the hitch as a template and drill a 1/2" hole in the bottom of the vehicle frame on both sides. For 1995 and later models, no drilling is required; fasteners are installed in existing hitch bracket and frame locations.
All 1/2" fasteners must be tightened to 75 lb.-ft. (102 N·m) using a torque wrench.
All 9/16" fasteners must be tightened to 110 lb.-ft. (149 N·m) using a torque wrench.
Raise the receiver into position under the vehicle, placing the upright bars against the outboard vertical surface of the frame on both sides. Align the hole in the upright bar with the existing slot in the frame on both sides before loosely installing fasteners.
Fasteners should be loosely installed first through the slot in the frame and upright bar. They are tightened to final torque specifications only after all fasteners are in place. For 1994 and prior models, this occurs after drilling the 1/2" holes. For 1995 and later models, this occurs after all fasteners are installed in the hitch bracket and frame.
After installation, check that all fasteners and the ball are properly tightened. The manual recommends checking the hitch frequently to ensure all fasteners and the ball remain properly tightened during use.
If the hitch is removed, you must plug all holes in the trunk pan or other body panels to prevent entry of water and exhaust fumes. This is important to protect the vehicle's interior and prevent damage.
Observe safety precautions when working beneath a vehicle and wear eye protection. Do not cut access or attachment holes with a torch. If the hitch or ball becomes damaged, it must be removed and replaced immediately.
The 75083 fits Ford Explorer, Mazda Navajo, and Mercury Mountaineer, but will not fit with a 16" spare tire on 1998 and later models.
You need wrenches (13/16", 7/8", 15/16"), a torque wrench, and a 1/2" drill bit for 1994 and prior models only. The fastener kit F75083 is included.
Drilling is required only for 1994 and prior models (1/2" hole in frame, both sides). 1995 and later models require no drilling.
Tighten all 1/2" fasteners to 75 lb.-ft. (102 N·m) and all 9/16" fasteners to 110 lb.-ft. (149 N·m) using a torque wrench.
Weight Distributing: 6000 lb gross trailer weight, 600 lb tongue weight. Weight Carrying: 5000 lb gross trailer weight, 500 lb tongue weight. Do not exceed the lower of the towing vehicle manufacturer's rating or hitch rating.
A damaged hitch or ball must be removed and replaced immediately. Do not continue to use a damaged hitch.
This unit is rated for 4 amps per circuit.
The manual does not specify vehicle make, model, year, cab style, or bed length compatibility. Contact the manufacturer or your retailer to confirm fitment for your specific vehicle.
The manual specifies a drill for the 3/32" hole in the metal cross brace. A screwdriver is needed to remove and reattach the taillights. No other tools are explicitly listed as required.
The kit includes: T-connector wiring harness with black box adapter, eyelet and screw for securing the white wire, ring terminal for battery connection, yellow butt connectors, foam tape for mounting the black box, cable ties for securing wires, a fuse holder with a 10 amp fuse, and a 4-flat connector. The 12 ga. black wire is included with the T-connector.
Yes. Step 8 requires you to disconnect the vehicle's negative (-) battery cable before connecting the fuse holder to the positive battery cable. The negative cable is reconnected in step 10 after the fuse is installed.
Yes. Step 2 requires opening the rear tailgate and removing both taillights by loosening the two screws on each assembly. The taillights are reattached in step 13 after all wiring connections are complete.
Stretch the T-connector wiring harness out across the bumper of the vehicle, placing the connector containing the green wire on the right (passenger's) side. Beginning on the left (driver's) side, route the black box and the connectors containing the yellow and red wires up through the access hole underneath the vehicle and out through the taillight opening.
For the driver's side: disconnect the top gray taillight socket carefully without breaking the locking tabs, then plug the T-connector containing the yellow wire between the separated halves. Next, disconnect the center black taillight socket and plug the T-connector containing the red wire between those halves. For the passenger's side: disconnect the top gray taillight socket and plug the T-connector containing the green wire between the separated halves. Ensure all connectors are fully inserted with locking tabs in place.
Yes. Step 6 requires drilling a 3/32" hole in the metal cross brace inside the taillight opening. The white wire is then secured to this hole using the eyelet and screw provided.
A 3/32" hole must be drilled in the metal cross brace inside the taillight opening to secure the white wire using the eyelet and screw provided.
Disconnect the vehicle's negative (-) battery cable first. Using the ring terminal provided, attach one end of the fuse holder to the vehicle's positive (+) battery cable. Connect the other end of the fuse holder to the black 12 ga. wire included with the T-connector using the supplied yellow butt connector. After routing the wire from the front of the vehicle along the driver's side frame rail and through the access hole, attach the black 12 ga. wire to the wire on the black box labeled "Battery +" using the butt connector provided. Finally, reconnect the vehicle's negative battery cable and install the 10 amp fuse into the fuse holder.
A 10 amp fuse is required. It is installed in the fuse holder that connects to the vehicle's positive battery cable in step 8.
Beginning from the front of the vehicle, route the 12 ga. wire rearward along the driver's side frame rail and up through the access hole from step 4. Avoid any hot pipes, heat shields, the fuel tank, or any other points that may pinch or break the wire.
The T-connector harness includes: yellow wire (connects to the top gray taillight socket on the driver's side), red wire (connects to the center black taillight socket on the driver's side), green wire (connects to the top gray taillight socket on the passenger's side), white wire (secured to the metal cross brace inside the taillight opening), and black 12 ga. wire (connects to the vehicle's positive battery through the fuse holder and to the black box labeled "Battery +").
Be careful not to break the locking tabs when disconnecting the taillight sockets. The manual emphasizes this caution in steps 5 and 7 when disconnecting both the gray and black taillight sockets.
Avoid routing the 12 ga. black wire near hot pipes, heat shields, the fuel tank, or any other points that may pinch or break the wire. The wire should be routed along the driver's side frame rail from the front of the vehicle rearward to the access hole.
Test the installation with a test light or trailer. The manual does not provide specific testing procedures beyond this statement.
Secure all loose wires with the cable ties provided. Additionally, clean a flat area near the black box using a mixture of rubbing alcohol and water, then mount the black box to the clean area using the foam tape provided.
Route the 4-flat connector down through the taillight opening access hole and secure it under the vehicle. Alternatively, you may remove the access panel exposing the vehicle's jack storage compartment, slit the grommet between the taillight opening and the jack storage compartment, and push the 4-flat connector through for storage.
Clean a flat area near where you want to mount the black box using a mixture of rubbing alcohol and water. Mount the black box to the clean area using the foam tape provided. The black box should be mounted after all wiring connections are complete and tested.
The manual does not specify vehicle compatibility. Contact the manufacturer or retailer with your vehicle's year, make, model, cab style, and bed length to confirm fitment.
You need a drill (for the 3/32" hole), a screwdriver (to remove and reattach taillights), and the hardware provided in the kit. No other special tools are required.
Yes, you must disconnect the negative battery cable before connecting the fuse holder to the positive battery cable in step 8. Reconnect it after installing the 10 amp fuse in step 10.
Yes, you must drill a 3/32" hole in the metal cross brace inside the taillight opening to secure the white wire with the provided eyelet and screw.
A 10 amp fuse is required and is installed in the fuse holder that connects to the vehicle's positive battery cable.
This unit is rated for 4 amps per circuit.
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