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These dependable custom hitches are manufactured for 2011-2016 Hyundai Elantra, 2013-2014 Hyundai Elantra Coupe and attach to your vehicle?s frame or bumper for a sleek, clean appearance. Each hitch also has a 1-1/4 inch square receiver tube opening so you can easily attach accessories like a bike rack or cargo carrier, or a utility trailer. DRAW-TITE Class 1 custom trailer hitches come complete with all the mounting hardware needed for installation and are backed by a nationwide lifetime limited warranty. So, whether you are headed out to the campground and need a place for the cooler, taking the bikes to hit the trails in the park, or you are tackling a DIY project (maybe some landscaping or a home repair), choose DRAW-TITE and travel with confidence knowing your setup is connected with the security only DRAW-TITE can provide. DRAW-TITE: North America?s Favorite Hitch.
Draw-Tite has designed custom-fit trailer hitches since 1946 and is one of North America's most widely fitted hitch brands. Receiver hitches use solid all-welded construction and low-profile designs that follow modern vehicle contours, install with minimal bumper cutting or drilling, meet or exceed V5 CSA and SAE J684 standards, and carry a limited lifetime warranty.
Draw-Tite has been leading custom-fit trailer hitch design and engineering since its founding in 1946, and it remains one of the most widely fitted hitch brands in North America. The company's stated approach is straightforward: every hitch is tested rigorously so that it performs well beyond published industry standards, a philosophy it markets as Tested Tough. It sits within the Horizon Global towing group alongside Reese, Fulton, Bulldog, Tekonsha, Bargman and Wesbar.
Custom fit is the defining characteristic. Rather than adapting a universal design, Draw-Tite engineers a trailer hitch for a specific make, model and model year, so it bolts to existing frame locations with minimal bumper cutting or drilling. Low-profile designs follow the rear contours and aerodynamic styling of modern vehicles, which matters more than it once did now that rear fascias are shaped and sensor-equipped. Construction is solid all-welded steel for maximum strength, and every hitch meets or exceeds V5 CSA and SAE J684 standards and is backed by a nationwide limited lifetime warranty.
The range spans receiver sizes and classes to suit different loads, from 1-1/4 inch receivers for bike racks, cargo carriers and light trailers up through 2 inch receivers for heavier towing. Front mount hitches add a receiver at the front of the vehicle for winch mounts, snow plows, spare carriers and precise trailer positioning.
The Hidden Hitch series takes concealment further by mounting behind the vehicle's rear fascia, so the vehicle keeps its factory appearance until a removable receiver is fitted. Each is custom designed per make and model for a no-drill installation that does not compromise ground clearance, rated for up to 3,500 pounds gross trailer weight and 350 pounds tongue weight. Matching plug-and-play wiring completes the towing system.
Experts available to answer your questions
Call 888-634-94941 compatible vehicles
| Year | Make & Model | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| 1986 - 1993 | Hyundai Elantra | Sedan |
The 2011-2012 Hyundai Elantra Sedan Draw-tite Class 1 Trailer Hitch, 1-1/4 Inch Square Receiver Bundle w/ Plug-n-Play T-One Wiring Harness (Part #DTB24902-118532) fits the following vehicles: 1986-1993 Hyundai Elantra. Always verify your specific year, make, and model before ordering.
The 2011-2012 Hyundai Elantra Sedan Draw-tite Class 1 Trailer Hitch, 1-1/4 Inch Square Receiver Bundle w/ Plug-n-Play T-One Wiring Harness (Part #DTB24902-118532) fits 1986-1993 Hyundai Elantra models. The 1993 model year is the last year covered by this part number. For newer models, check for an updated version.
Yes, the 2011-2012 Hyundai Elantra Sedan Draw-tite Class 1 Trailer Hitch, 1-1/4 Inch Square Receiver Bundle w/ Plug-n-Play T-One Wiring Harness (Part #DTB24902-118532) is designed to fit the 1986-1993 Hyundai Elantra.
The 2011-2012 Hyundai Elantra Sedan Draw-tite Class 1 Trailer Hitch, 1-1/4 Inch Square Receiver Bundle w/ Plug-n-Play T-One Wiring Harness (Part #DTB24902-118532) Refer to the included instructions for installation details. Basic hand tools are typically all you need.
Yes, part number 24902 is designed to fit both Hyundai Elantra Sedan and Hyundai Elantra Coupe. However, installation procedures differ slightly between the two body styles. Sedans use a rearward pull-wire slot, while Coupes use a forward pull-wire slot. Additionally, Coupe models require enlargement of frame rail holes with a 1/2" drill bit, whereas North American-built Sedans may use a reverse pull-wire procedure.
The manual states that due to different manufacturing plants, holes in the frame will vary in position, and drilling may be required. North American-built vehicles use a reverse pull-wire procedure, while Asia-built Sedans require enlargement of frame rail holes with a 1/2" drill bit. Coupes also require hole enlargement regardless of manufacturing location. You should inspect your vehicle's frame rails before installation to determine if drilling is necessary.
The maximum gross trailer weight is 2000 LB (908 kg), and the maximum tongue weight is 200 LB (90.8 kg). However, you must not exceed the lower of the towing vehicle manufacturer's rating or these limits. Always consult your Hyundai Elantra owner's manual for the vehicle's specific towing capacity.
Required tools include: pullwires (provided with the hitch), lubricant or soapy water, Philips screwdriver, utility knife, tape measure, marking pencil, wrenches in sizes M10, 11/16", and 3/4", a 1/2" drill bit, and a torque wrench. The torque wrench is essential for tightening fasteners to the correct specifications.
The manual lists the fasteners included with the hitch: one 1/2"-13 x 1.75 carriage bolt, two 7/16"-14 x 1.50 carriage bolts, one 0.25 x 1.50 x 3.0 spacer, two 0.25 x 0.88 x 3.00 spacers, one 1/2" conical washer, two 7/16" conical washers, one 1/2"-13 hex nut, and two 7/16"-14 hex nuts. A separate Fastener Kit 24902F is also available. Confirm with your supplier whether all required fasteners are included in your purchase.
Yes. Step 1 requires lowering the exhaust by removing both rubber isolators from the muffler hangers. Spraying lubricant or soapy water on the metal hanger rod and rubber isolator helps with removal. The hitch is then raised over the exhaust during installation (Step 6), and the exhaust is reinstalled after all fasteners are tightened (Step 8).
The appearance panel on the driver's side should be removed if present. The manual states you must obtain the owner's permission before trimming or returning the panel to the owner. Whether trimming is necessary depends on your vehicle's configuration. See Figure 3 for the area that may require trimming.
Drilling may be required depending on your vehicle's manufacturing location and model. North American-built Sedans may use a reverse pull-wire procedure without drilling. Asia-built Sedans require enlargement of frame rail holes with a 1/2" drill bit. All Coupes require hole enlargement with a 1/2" drill bit. The manual cautions that due to different manufacturing plants, holes in the frame will vary in position, so you should inspect your frame rails before installation.
A 1/2" drill bit is used to enlarge the frame rail holes. This is required for Asia-built Sedans and all Coupe models. The manual lists 1/2" drill bits in the equipment required section.
All 7/16" Grade 5 fasteners must be tightened to 50 Lb.-Ft. (68 N·M) using a torque wrench. This applies to the two 7/16"-14 x 1.50 carriage bolts and their corresponding fasteners.
All 1/2" Grade 5 fasteners must be tightened to 75 Lb.-Ft. (102 N·M) using a torque wrench. This applies to the 1/2"-13 x 1.75 carriage bolt and its corresponding fasteners.
The reverse pull-wire procedure is used on North American-built Sedans. According to Figure 4: (A) Insert the bolt and block into the frame, (B) align the block on the access hole, and (C) pull the bolt through the block. Kink the pull wire to keep the block independent of the bolt. Leave the pull wire attached after installation. This procedure allows installation through existing frame access holes without drilling.
Pull wires must be fed through different slots depending on the vehicle model. On Sedans, feed pull wires through the rearward slot. On Coupes, feed pull wires through the forward slot. This routing occurs during Step 6 when the hitch is raised over the exhaust and the center attachment is loosely installed.
The 1/2" carriage bolt and spacer must be placed on the tie-down hook in the orientation shown in Figure 2. The manual includes a diagram labeled "Tie down hook spacer orientation" to illustrate the correct positioning.
Fasteners should be left loose during the initial installation steps. Step 6 specifies loosely installing the center attachment. All fasteners are tightened to the required torque specification only in Step 7, after the hitch is positioned and all fasteners are installed.
The drawbar must be used in the RISE position only. The drawbar is sold separately as Kit 3594. Do not use the drawbar in any other position.
Observe safety precautions when working beneath the vehicle and wear eye protection. Do not cut access or attachment holes with a torch. If the hitch is removed, plug all holes in the trunk pan or other body panels to prevent entry of water and exhaust fumes. A hitch or ball that has been damaged should be removed and replaced immediately.
Check the hitch frequently to ensure all fasteners and the ball are properly tightened. The manual emphasizes regular inspection but does not specify a particular interval or detailed inspection procedure beyond verifying fastener tightness.
If the hitch is removed, plug all holes in the trunk pan or other body panels to prevent entry of water and exhaust fumes. This prevents corrosion and contamination of the vehicle interior.
A hitch or ball that has been damaged should be removed and replaced. Do not attempt to repair a damaged hitch assembly.
Yes, part 24902 fits both Hyundai Elantra Sedan and Coupe, but installation steps differ by model and manufacturing location. Coupes and Asia-built Sedans require drilling with a 1/2" bit; North American-built Sedans may use a reverse pull-wire procedure.
Maximum gross trailer weight is 2000 LB (908 kg) and maximum tongue weight is 200 LB (90.8 kg). Do not exceed the lower of the towing vehicle manufacturer's rating or these limits.
You need pullwires (provided), lubricant or soapy water, Philips screwdriver, utility knife, tape measure, marking pencil, wrenches (M10, 11/16", 3/4"), a 1/2" drill bit, and a torque wrench.
Tighten all 7/16" Grade 5 fasteners to 50 Lb.-Ft. (68 N·M) and all 1/2" Grade 5 fasteners to 75 Lb.-Ft. (102 N·M) using a torque wrench.
The drawbar must be used in the RISE position only. The drawbar is sold separately as Kit 3594.
The manual cautions that due to different manufacturing plants, holes in the frame will vary in position. If holes do not align, drilling may be required. For North American-built Sedans, use the reverse pull-wire procedure. For Asia-built Sedans and all Coupes, enlarge the existing holes with a 1/2" drill bit. Inspect your frame rails before installation to determine if drilling is necessary.
A hitch or ball that has been damaged should be removed and replaced. Do not attempt to repair or continue using a damaged hitch assembly, as this compromises towing safety.
Yes, this T-Connector is designed for the Hyundai Elantra. The installation instructions are specific to this vehicle model.
The T-Connector is a trailer wiring interface that connects to your vehicle's taillight wiring harness. It allows you to connect a trailer's lighting system to your vehicle's electrical system. The product includes a 4-flat connector for trailer use.
You will need: trim panel remover, drill with 3/32" drill bit, 1/4" socket, wire crimpers, wire cutters, Phillips head screwdriver, and test-probe. Safety glasses are also required.
The kit includes: two T-Connector ends (one with yellow wire, one with green wire), a black box connector, a white wire with eyelet and screw for grounding, a yellow fuse holder with 10 amp fuse, a ring terminal, a yellow butt connector, cable ties, double-sided tape, and a 4-flat connector for storage in the spare tire compartment.
Yes. Step 6 requires you to disconnect the vehicle's negative (-) battery cable before making any electrical connections. After all connections are complete, you reconnect the negative battery cable in step 9.
Mount the T-Connector black box on the driver's side of the vehicle using the double-sided tape provided. Secure the remainder of the harness with the supplied cable ties, being careful to avoid areas that would cut or pinch the wire.
Yes. You must drill a 3/32" hole to secure the white ground wire using the eyelet and screw provided. Locate a suitable grounding point near the connector, clean dirt and rustproofing from the area, then drill the hole. Do not drill into the vehicle floor, bed, or any exposed surfaces. Always verify what is behind any surface before drilling to avoid damage to the vehicle or personal injury.
The T-Connector uses a 10 amp fuse. The fuse is installed in the yellow fuse holder provided in the kit and is placed in the circuit between the vehicle's positive battery cable and the black 12 gauge wire.
The T-Connector uses the following wire colors: yellow wire (driver's side T-Connector end), green wire (passenger's side T-Connector end), white wire (ground), black wire (12 gauge, power from battery), and red wire (from T-Connector black box). Yellow butt connectors are used to join wires.
On the driver's side, insert the T-Connector end with the yellow wire between the vehicle's taillight wiring connectors and lock into place. Route the T-Connector end with the green wire under the felt trunk liner to the passenger side taillight wiring harness and repeat the process. Ensure all connector surfaces are clean and free of dirt, and that locking tabs are fully engaged.
Route the black 12 gauge wire out of the engine compartment either along the exterior frame and through a grommet, or through the interior following the existing wiring to the rear of the vehicle. Be careful to avoid hot pipes, heat shields, the fuel tank, or any other points that may pinch or break the wire.
Do not exceed the lower of your towing manufacturer's rating or: maximum stop/turn light of 1 per side (2.1 amps), or maximum tail lights of 5.6 amps. Overloading the circuit can cause fires. Refer to your vehicle's owner's manual and instruction sheet for additional information.
Test and verify the installation with a test light or trailer once installed. For the initial test, reset the vehicle's electrical system by temporarily removing the key from the ignition. All connections must be complete for the T-Connector to function properly.
Store the 4-flat connector in the spare tire compartment when not in use.
Open the trunk and temporarily remove the rear threshold plate. Partially remove the corner felt trunk liner on both sides to expose the vehicle's taillight wiring harness. You will reinstall these items after completing the installation, being careful not to pinch or cut the wires.
Attach the black 12 gauge wire to the red wire from the T-Connector black box using the supplied yellow butt connector.
Disconnect the vehicle's negative battery cable. Remove the fuse from the yellow fuse holder if not already removed. Cut the fuse holder wire and attach the ring terminal, then secure it to the vehicle's positive (+) battery cable. Connect the other end of the fuse holder to the black 12 gauge wire using the yellow butt connector provided.
After all wiring connections are complete, reconnect the vehicle's negative (-) battery cable. Then install the 10 amp fuse into the fuse holder. This ensures the circuit is protected before power is restored.
The Hyundai Elantra.
10 amp fuse, installed in the yellow fuse holder provided.
Yes. Disconnect the vehicle's negative battery cable before making electrical connections.
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