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These dependable custom hitches are manufactured for 2011-2019 Hyundai Sonata, 2011-2020 KIA Optima and attach to your vehicle?s frame or bumper for a sleek, clean appearance. Each hitch also has a 1-1/4 inch square receiver tube opening so you can easily attach accessories like a bike rack or cargo carrier, or a utility trailer. DRAW-TITE Class 1 custom trailer hitches come complete with all the mounting hardware needed for installation and are backed by a nationwide lifetime limited warranty. So, whether you are headed out to the campground and need a place for the cooler, taking the bikes to hit the trails in the park, or you are tackling a DIY project (maybe some landscaping or a home repair), choose DRAW-TITE and travel with confidence knowing your setup is connected with the security only DRAW-TITE can provide. DRAW-TITE: North America?s Favorite Hitch.
Draw-Tite has designed custom-fit trailer hitches since 1946 and is one of North America's most widely fitted hitch brands. Receiver hitches use solid all-welded construction and low-profile designs that follow modern vehicle contours, install with minimal bumper cutting or drilling, meet or exceed V5 CSA and SAE J684 standards, and carry a limited lifetime warranty.
Draw-Tite has been leading custom-fit trailer hitch design and engineering since its founding in 1946, and it remains one of the most widely fitted hitch brands in North America. The company's stated approach is straightforward: every hitch is tested rigorously so that it performs well beyond published industry standards, a philosophy it markets as Tested Tough. It sits within the Horizon Global towing group alongside Reese, Fulton, Bulldog, Tekonsha, Bargman and Wesbar.
Custom fit is the defining characteristic. Rather than adapting a universal design, Draw-Tite engineers a trailer hitch for a specific make, model and model year, so it bolts to existing frame locations with minimal bumper cutting or drilling. Low-profile designs follow the rear contours and aerodynamic styling of modern vehicles, which matters more than it once did now that rear fascias are shaped and sensor-equipped. Construction is solid all-welded steel for maximum strength, and every hitch meets or exceeds V5 CSA and SAE J684 standards and is backed by a nationwide limited lifetime warranty.
The range spans receiver sizes and classes to suit different loads, from 1-1/4 inch receivers for bike racks, cargo carriers and light trailers up through 2 inch receivers for heavier towing. Front mount hitches add a receiver at the front of the vehicle for winch mounts, snow plows, spare carriers and precise trailer positioning.
The Hidden Hitch series takes concealment further by mounting behind the vehicle's rear fascia, so the vehicle keeps its factory appearance until a removable receiver is fitted. Each is custom designed per make and model for a no-drill installation that does not compromise ground clearance, rated for up to 3,500 pounds gross trailer weight and 350 pounds tongue weight. Matching plug-and-play wiring completes the towing system.
Experts available to answer your questions
Call 888-634-94941 compatible vehicles
| Year | Make & Model | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| 1987 - 1993 | Hyundai Sonata | Hybrid |
Yes. Part numbers 24965, 77965, and CQT24965 are designed for 2011–Current Kia Optima models. For the most up-to-date information regarding specific trim levels and model years, visit the manufacturer's website at www.cequentgroup.com.
Yes. Part numbers 24965, 77965, and CQT24965 are compatible with 2011–Current Hyundai Sonata models. Check the manufacturer's website for the most current information on specific trim levels and model years.
The maximum gross trailer weight is 2000 lb (908 kg) and the maximum tongue weight is 200 lb (90.8 kg). Do not exceed the lower of your towing vehicle manufacturer's rating or these limits. This is a weight-carrying hitch; weight-distributing capability is not available (marked as 'X' in the manual).
Required tools include: ratchet, torque wrench, safety glasses, sockets (11/16", 10 mm, 12 mm, 13 mm), 6" socket extension, Phillips screwdriver, exhaust removal pliers, universal joint socket, tin snips, tape measure, ratchet strap or bungee cord, utility knife, and soapy water or lubricant. A torque wrench is essential for proper fastener tightening.
Yes. You must lower the muffler(s) by removing the rearmost rubber hanger(s) and the rubber hanger near the rear axle. Spraying lubricant on the rubber hangers makes them slide off the metal pins more easily. Be careful to support the exhaust before removing the hangers. The muffler is then raised back into position after the hitch is installed.
No drilling is required. The hitch uses existing frame holes (7/8" diameter holes in the bottom of the frame and 3/4" diameter holes toward the rear). However, you must trim the muffler heat shields using tin snips or a utility knife to clear the hitch bolts, and may need to trim a small notch in the bumper fascia on some models.
For Kia Optima: Cut a 1.5" wide × 1" tall area around the hitch bolt. Measure 1.5" from the center of the hole. The shield extends 11" forward and 9" rearward. For Hyundai Sonata: Trim dimensions are 2–7/16" wide × 5" tall on the passenger side, and 2" × 9–1/4" on the driver's side. Use tin snips or a utility knife. Shields are removed before trimming and reinstalled with the same hardware after trimming.
All 7/16–14 fasteners must be tightened to 50 lb-ft (68 N·m) using a torque wrench. This applies to both the forward and rearmost carriage bolt attachments. The manual notes that proper torque is essential to keep the hitch secure to the vehicle when towing.
1. Lower mufflers by removing rubber hangers. 2. Remove factory muffler hanger brackets. 3. Remove driver's side plastic appearance panel (if present). 4. Remove plastic panel covering space between bumper fascia and trunk pan. 5. Remove heat shields. 6. Install rearmost attachment fasteners (7/16 × 1.50 carriage bolts) using pull wires. 7. Install forward attachment fasteners (7/16 × 1.25 carriage bolts) using pull wires. 8. Trim heat shields. 9. Reinstall heat shields. 10. Raise hitch into position and install washers and nuts. 11. Trim fascia if needed. 12. Torque all 7/16–14 fasteners to 50 lb-ft. 13. Raise mufflers back into position. 14. Reinstall plastic appearance panel if desired.
The 7/16 pull wires (item 13) are provided to help fish the carriage bolts through the frame holes. For the rearmost fasteners, use the pull wires to insert the 7/16 × 1.50 carriage bolts and special washers through the 7/8" diameter holes in the bottom of the frame, then pull them down through the 3/4" diameter holes toward the rear of the vehicle. For forward fasteners, use the pull wires to insert the 7/16 × 1.25 carriage bolts and spacer blocks up through the 7/8" holes and back down through the same hole on both sides.
Forward attachments: 7/16 conical toothed washers (item 5) and 7/16–14 hex nuts (item 6). Rearmost attachments: spacer blocks (item 8), 7/16 conical toothed washers (item 5), and 7/16–14 hex nuts (item 6). On rear attachments, insert 7/16" flat washers (item 7) as needed between the hitch and frame to take up space on vehicles with a raised area for muffler hangers. The conical washer teeth side must face against the hitch.
Yes. On dual exhaust vehicles, it may be necessary to push the hitch toward the passenger side as far as possible so that the hitch bracket is up against the vehicle trunk pan. This allows more clearance for the exhaust on the driver's side.
The fastener kit is part number 24965F. It includes all required carriage bolts, washers, spacer blocks, hex nuts, and pull wires needed for installation.
No. The manual explicitly states: DO NOT cut, weld or modify this receiver. Cutting or welding will compromise the structural integrity and safety of the hitch. Do not use a torch to cut access or attachment holes.
Always wear safety glasses when installing the hitch. Observe safety precautions when working beneath a vehicle. Support the exhaust before removing rubber hangers. Do not cut access holes with a torch. Check all fasteners are tight and the hitch is securely mounted to the vehicle periodically. If the hitch is removed, plug all holes in the trunk pan or other body panels to prevent entry of water and exhaust fumes.
If excess sway occurs, take your foot off the gas pedal and hold the steering wheel as steady as possible. Do not apply your brakes and do not speed up. Slow down when towing and never exceed any posted speed limit.
Load the trailer heavier in front. This helps maintain proper weight distribution and stability while towing.
Check that all fasteners are tight and the hitch is securely mounted to the vehicle. Verify that the hitch ball is properly tightened. Check the muffler hangers are reattached correctly. Ensure the plastic appearance panels are reinstalled if desired. Periodically check all fasteners and the ball to ensure they remain properly tightened during use.
Check the hitch frequently, making sure all fasteners and the ball are properly tightened. The manual does not specify an exact interval, but emphasizes periodic checking during use to ensure the hitch remains securely mounted to the vehicle.
No. The authorized drawbar kit (part number 3593) is sold separately. If you purchase a drawbar, it must be used in the RISE position only.
The average installation time for professional installers is 40 minutes. If you do not feel comfortable performing this installation on your own or are in need of assistance, please contact a professional installer.
Yes, part numbers 24965, 77965, and CQT24965 fit 2011–current Kia Optima and Hyundai Sonata models. Check the manufacturer's website for the most current trim-level information.
Maximum gross trailer weight is 2000 lb (908 kg); maximum tongue weight is 200 lb (90.8 kg). Do not exceed the lower of your vehicle manufacturer's rating or these limits.
A torque wrench is essential. You will also need a ratchet, sockets (11/16", 10 mm, 12 mm, 13 mm), socket extension, Phillips screwdriver, exhaust removal pliers, universal joint socket, tin snips, tape measure, safety glasses, and lubricant or soapy water.
All 7/16–14 fasteners must be tightened to 50 lb-ft (68 N·m) using a torque wrench. Proper torque is essential for secure mounting when towing.
Maximum gross trailer weight is 2000 lb (908 kg) with a maximum tongue weight of 200 lb (90.8 kg). Do not exceed the lower of your vehicle manufacturer's rating or these limits.
Ensure all 7/16–14 fasteners are tightened to the correct torque specification of 50 lb-ft (68 N·m) using a torque wrench. Check that the conical toothed washers are installed with the teeth side facing against the hitch. Verify that all spacer blocks and flat washers are properly seated. Check the hitch periodically during use, as fasteners may require retightening after initial use.
On vehicles with a raised area for muffler hangers, insert 7/16" flat washers (item 7) as needed on the rear attachments between the hitch and frame to take up space and ensure proper seating. On dual exhaust vehicles, push the hitch toward the passenger side as far as possible so the hitch bracket is up against the vehicle trunk pan. Verify that all spacer blocks are properly installed on the rearmost carriage bolt attachments.
Ensure the muffler heat shields have been properly trimmed according to the dimensions in Figures 7, 8, or 9 (depending on vehicle model). On dual exhaust vehicles, push the hitch toward the passenger side as far as possible to allow more clearance for the exhaust on the driver's side. Verify that the muffler has been raised back into position and the rubber hangers are properly reattached.
Use the 7/16 pull wires (item 13) provided in the fastener kit to fish the carriage bolts through the frame holes. Spray lubricant on the frame holes to reduce friction. For the rearmost fasteners, pull the bolts down through the 3/4" diameter holes toward the rear of the vehicle. For forward fasteners, insert the bolts up through the 7/8" holes and back down through the same hole. Be careful not to push the bolts back into the frame.
Yes, the T-One T-Connector (part 118663-037) is designed for the Hyundai Sonata Hybrid. The installation instructions are specific to this vehicle model.
The T-One T-Connector is a wiring adapter that connects a trailer to your Hyundai Sonata Hybrid's electrical system. It allows you to operate trailer lights (stop, turn, and tail lights) from your vehicle's existing taillight wiring without cutting or permanently modifying the vehicle's factory harness.
You will need: a trim panel remover, a drill with a 3/32" drill bit, a Phillips head screwdriver, and a test probe. The test probe is used to verify electrical connections during and after installation.
Yes. You must disconnect the vehicle's negative (−) battery cable before connecting the T-Connector to the positive battery terminal. The negative cable is reconnected in step 8, after the fuse holder is installed.
Yes, drilling is required. You must drill a 3/32" hole to secure the white ground wire using the eyelet and screw provided. You may locate an existing ground stud instead if one is available near the connector. Do not drill into the vehicle floor or bed, and verify what is behind any surface before drilling to avoid damage to the vehicle or personal injury.
The T-Connector has three main wires: green (connects to passenger-side taillight harness), yellow (connects to driver-side taillight harness), and white (ground connection). It also has a black wire from the black box module that connects to the vehicle's positive battery terminal via a 15 amp fuse holder.
Install a 15 amp fuse into the fuse holder. This fuse protects the circuit from overload.
Do not exceed the lower of your towing manufacturer's rating or: maximum 2 stop/turn lights per side (4.2 amps total) or maximum tail lights (7.5 amps). Overloading the circuit can cause fires. Refer to your vehicle's owner's manual and the towing manufacturer's instructions for additional information.
Mount the black box module on a flat surface in an out-of-the-way location inside the trunk to prevent damage or rattling. Secure the remainder of the harness with the cable ties provided, being careful to avoid areas that would pinch, cut, or melt the wire.
1. Open the trunk and temporarily remove the rear threshold plate. Partially remove the felt trunk liner behind the taillights. 2. Locate the taillight wiring harness on both driver and passenger sides. 3. Separate the vehicle's taillight connectors carefully without breaking the locking tabs. 4. Starting on the passenger side, attach the T-Connector end with the green wire to the passenger-side taillight connector. 5. Route the yellow-wire connector down the threshold to the driver side and repeat the connection. 6. Ensure all connectors are fully inserted with locking tabs in place. All connector surfaces must be clean and free of dirt.
1. Locate the battery inside the vehicle's trunk on the passenger side. 2. Connect the black 12 gauge wire and the black wire from the T-Connector black box module using the supplied yellow butt connector. 3. Disconnect the vehicle's negative (−) battery cable. 4. Remove the fuse from the yellow fuse holder (if not already removed) and cut the fuse holder wire. 5. Attach the ring terminal to the vehicle's positive (+) battery cable. 6. Connect the other end of the fuse holder to the black 12 gauge wire using the supplied yellow butt connector. 7. Reconnect the negative battery cable and install the 15 amp fuse into the fuse holder.
First, disconnect the vehicle's negative (−) battery cable. Then connect the black wires from the vehicle and the T-Connector black box using a yellow butt connector. Next, cut the fuse holder wire, attach the ring terminal to the positive (+) battery cable, and connect the fuse holder to the black 12 gauge wire using another yellow butt connector. Finally, reconnect the negative battery cable and install the 15 amp fuse. This sequence ensures safety by isolating the battery before making connections.
After installation is complete, test and verify the installation using a test light or by connecting an actual trailer. For the initial test, reset the vehicle's electrical system by temporarily removing the key from the ignition. All connections must be complete for the T-Connector to function properly.
Store the 4-flat connector in the trunk area when not in use.
No. You only need to temporarily remove the rear threshold plate and partially remove the felt trunk liner behind the taillights to access the taillight wiring harness. The full liner does not need to be removed.
The manual instructs you to separate the vehicle's wiring connectors carefully without breaking the locking tabs, as they are essential for secure connections. If a locking tab breaks, the connector will not hold securely. Consult the vehicle manufacturer or a professional technician for repair or replacement of the damaged connector.
All connector surfaces must be clean and free of dirt to ensure proper electrical contact and prevent corrosion or connection failures. Dirt can interfere with the electrical connection between the vehicle's harness and the T-Connector.
Route the connector containing the yellow wire down the threshold to the driver side of the vehicle, pushing the wiring between the vehicle body and carpet. Secure the remainder of the harness with the cable ties provided. Be careful to avoid any areas that would pinch, cut, or melt the wire. When reinstalling carpet and panels, take care not to cut or pinch the wires.
Yes, the T-One T-Connector (part 118663-037) is designed specifically for the Hyundai Sonata Hybrid.
You need a trim panel remover, drill with 3/32" bit, Phillips head screwdriver, and test probe.
Yes, you must disconnect the vehicle's negative battery cable before connecting to the positive terminal. Reconnect it after the fuse holder is installed.
A 15 amp fuse is required. Do not exceed maximum electrical loads of 2 stop/turn lights per side (4.2 amps) or tail lights (7.5 amps).
Do not exceed 2 stop/turn lights per side (4.2 amps) or tail lights (7.5 amps), or the lower of your towing manufacturer's rating. Overloading can cause fires.
Verify that all connections are complete and secure. Check that the 15 amp fuse is installed in the fuse holder. Ensure all connector locking tabs are fully in place on both the taillight connections and the battery connections. Test the installation using a test light or trailer. If the system still does not work, reset the vehicle's electrical system by temporarily removing the ignition key and reinserting it.
A blown fuse indicates an electrical overload. Verify that you are not exceeding the maximum electrical load: no more than 2 stop/turn lights per side (4.2 amps) or tail lights (7.5 amps), and not exceeding the lower of your towing manufacturer's rating. Check all connections for shorts or loose wires that could cause excessive current draw. If the load is within limits and the fuse continues to blow, there may be a short circuit in the wiring or a defective component.
Dim or flickering lights suggest a poor electrical connection. Check that all connector locking tabs are fully seated on both the taillight connectors and the battery connections. Verify that all connector surfaces are clean and free of dirt. Ensure the ground wire is securely fastened and that the ground connection area is clean and free of rust or corrosion. Test the installation with a test light to verify proper voltage at each connection point.
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