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2011 - 2016 Kia Sportage
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These durable custom hitches are manufactured for 2010-2015 Hyundai Tucson, 2011-2016 KIA Sportage and attach to your vehicle?s frame or bumper for a sleek, clean appearance. Each hitch also has a 2 inch square receiver tube opening ? the most common and versatile on the market - allowing you to attach accessories like a bike rack or cargo carrier, or hook up your pop-up, boat trailer, or utility trailer. The options are endless! DRAW-TITE Class 3 Custom Trailer Hitches come complete with all the mounting hardware needed for installation and are backed by a nationwide lifetime limited warranty. So, whether you are headed out to the campground, the lake, or the bike trails, or you are tackling a project at home and need to haul the materials home, choose DRAW-TITE and travel with confidence knowing your setup is connected with the security only DRAW-TITE can provide. DRAW-TITE: North America?s Favorite Hitch
Draw-Tite has designed custom-fit trailer hitches since 1946 and is one of North America's most widely fitted hitch brands. Receiver hitches use solid all-welded construction and low-profile designs that follow modern vehicle contours, install with minimal bumper cutting or drilling, meet or exceed V5 CSA and SAE J684 standards, and carry a limited lifetime warranty.
Draw-Tite has been leading custom-fit trailer hitch design and engineering since its founding in 1946, and it remains one of the most widely fitted hitch brands in North America. The company's stated approach is straightforward: every hitch is tested rigorously so that it performs well beyond published industry standards, a philosophy it markets as Tested Tough. It sits within the Horizon Global towing group alongside Reese, Fulton, Bulldog, Tekonsha, Bargman and Wesbar.
Custom fit is the defining characteristic. Rather than adapting a universal design, Draw-Tite engineers a trailer hitch for a specific make, model and model year, so it bolts to existing frame locations with minimal bumper cutting or drilling. Low-profile designs follow the rear contours and aerodynamic styling of modern vehicles, which matters more than it once did now that rear fascias are shaped and sensor-equipped. Construction is solid all-welded steel for maximum strength, and every hitch meets or exceeds V5 CSA and SAE J684 standards and is backed by a nationwide limited lifetime warranty.
The range spans receiver sizes and classes to suit different loads, from 1-1/4 inch receivers for bike racks, cargo carriers and light trailers up through 2 inch receivers for heavier towing. Front mount hitches add a receiver at the front of the vehicle for winch mounts, snow plows, spare carriers and precise trailer positioning.
The Hidden Hitch series takes concealment further by mounting behind the vehicle's rear fascia, so the vehicle keeps its factory appearance until a removable receiver is fitted. Each is custom designed per make and model for a no-drill installation that does not compromise ground clearance, rated for up to 3,500 pounds gross trailer weight and 350 pounds tongue weight. Matching plug-and-play wiring completes the towing system.
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Call 888-634-94941 compatible vehicles
| Year | Make & Model | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| 2011 - 2016 | Kia Sportage | — |
The 2011-2016 KIA Sportage Draw-tite Class 3 Trailer Hitch, 2 Inch Square Receiver Bundle w/ Plug-n-Play T-One Wiring Harness (Part #DTB75717-118526) fits the following vehicles: 2011-2016 Kia Sportage. Always verify your specific year, make, and model before ordering.
Yes, the 2011-2016 KIA Sportage Draw-tite Class 3 Trailer Hitch, 2 Inch Square Receiver Bundle w/ Plug-n-Play T-One Wiring Harness (Part #DTB75717-118526) is designed to fit the 2011-2016 Kia Sportage.
The 2011-2016 KIA Sportage Draw-tite Class 3 Trailer Hitch, 2 Inch Square Receiver Bundle w/ Plug-n-Play T-One Wiring Harness (Part #DTB75717-118526) fits 2011-2016 Kia Sportage models. The 2016 model year is the last year covered by this part number. For newer models, check for an updated version.
The 2011-2016 KIA Sportage Draw-tite Class 3 Trailer Hitch, 2 Inch Square Receiver Bundle w/ Plug-n-Play T-One Wiring Harness (Part #DTB75717-118526) Refer to the included instructions for installation details. Basic hand tools are typically all you need.
Yes, part number 75717 is designed to fit both Hyundai Tucson and Kia Sportage vehicles. The installation instructions cover both models, with wiring access points specified as SUV1 and SUV2 for Tucson, and SUV1 and SUV5 for Sportage.
The maximum towing capacity depends on the hitch type. A weight-distributing hitch supports a maximum gross trailer weight of 5250 lb (1816 kg) with a maximum tongue weight of 525 lb (182 kg). A weight-carrying ball mount supports a maximum gross trailer weight of 3500 lb (1589 kg) with a maximum tongue weight of 525 lb (159 kg). Do not exceed the lower of the towing vehicle manufacturer's rating or these specifications.
A 16mm wrench and a torque wrench are required. No drill bits are needed, as the hitch uses existing weld nuts in the vehicle frame and does not require drilling.
Yes. You must raise the vehicle with a hoist or ramps to access the underside of the vehicle where the hitch attaches to the frame.
Yes. You must support the exhaust system, remove the rear hangers, and lower the exhaust until the hitch can be positioned over the muffler tips and aligned with the existing weld nuts in the bottom of the frame. After installation, you must reinstall the rear hangers.
The hitch includes four M10 x 1.25 x 30mm Class 10.9 hex bolts and four 3/8" conical washers. These fasteners attach the hitch to the existing weld nuts in the vehicle frame.
No. During step 3, loosely install the M10 hex bolts with conical washers at all four attachment points. Tighten them fully only in step 4 using a torque wrench after all bolts are in place.
All M10 Class 10.9 fasteners must be tightened to 42 lb.-ft. (57 N·m) using a torque wrench.
The hitch aligns with and attaches to existing weld nuts located on both sides of the bottom of the frame. The hitch slots align with these weld nuts, and the four M10 bolts pass through the hitch and into these existing weld nuts.
Check the hitch frequently to ensure all fasteners and the ball are properly tightened. The manual does not specify an exact interval, but regular inspection is essential for safe towing.
A damaged hitch or ball must be removed and replaced. Do not attempt to repair or continue using a damaged hitch.
If the hitch is removed, plug all holes in the trunk pan or other body panels to prevent entry of water and exhaust fumes.
No. Do not cut access or attachment holes with a torch. The hitch uses existing weld nuts in the frame and does not require drilling or cutting.
Observe safety precautions when working beneath a vehicle and wear eye protection. The vehicle must be properly supported on a hoist or ramps. Support the exhaust system while removing and reinstalling hangers.
If additional exhaust clearance is required, bend the exhaust hanger rod appropriately. This adjustment should be made after the hitch is installed if needed.
Yes, part 75717 fits both Hyundai Tucson and Kia Sportage vehicles.
You need a 16mm wrench, a torque wrench, and a vehicle hoist or ramps. No drilling is required.
Tighten all M10 Class 10.9 bolts to 42 lb.-ft. (57 N·m) using a torque wrench.
Yes, you must lower the exhaust system by removing the rear hangers to position the hitch over the muffler tips and align it with the frame weld nuts. Reinstall the hangers after installation.
Check the hitch frequently to ensure all fasteners and the ball are properly tightened. If removed, plug all body panel holes to prevent water and exhaust fume entry. Replace any damaged hitch or ball immediately.
Yes, this T-Connector is designed for the Kia Sportage. The manual confirms fitment for this vehicle. However, the manual does not specify which model years are compatible, so contact the manufacturer or check the product listing to confirm your specific year matches.
A T-Connector is a wiring harness that allows you to connect a trailer to your vehicle's electrical system. It taps into your vehicle's existing taillight wiring and provides a connection point for trailer lights. The system includes a black box-module that manages the electrical connections and a 4-flat connector for the trailer plug.
You will need: trim panel remover, 10 mm socket and ratchet (or 10 mm wrench), drill with 3/32" drill bit, 1/4" socket, wire crimpers, wire cutters, Phillips head screwdriver, fish tape, and test-probe. These tools are required to remove trim panels, disconnect connectors, drill the grounding hole, and test the installation.
Yes. You must disconnect and isolate the vehicle's negative battery terminal before beginning installation. This is a critical safety step. You will reconnect it after all wiring connections are complete, in step 9.
The T-Connector installs on the driver's side only. The manual specifies driver's side for taillight assembly removal, trim panel removal, grounding point location, and all connector routing.
Yes. On the driver's side, you must remove two screws from the taillight assembly and pull the taillight housing directly rearward to remove it. This is required to access and connect the red/brown wires to the vehicle's mating connectors. You will reassemble it after connecting the T-Connector.
You must temporarily remove the rear threshold plate, storage covers, and floor covering. On the driver's side, remove 3 screws from the side trim panel, but do not remove the panel itself—only loosen it to access the wiring harness behind it. Removing the panel can result in damage. All items must be reinstalled at the end of installation.
The T-Connector has three color-coded sections: yellow/green wires connect to the vehicle's mating connector underneath the rear of the vehicle (step 5); red/brown wires connect to the driver's side taillight pocket connectors (step 6); and a white wire is used for grounding to the vehicle frame (step 7). A black 12 gauge wire connects to the battery positive terminal through a fuse holder (step 8).
Yes. You must drill one 3/32" hole for the grounding wire. Locate a suitable grounding point near the connector on the vehicle's frame or cross member. Clean dirt and rust proofing from the area, then drill the hole and secure the white wire using the eyelet and screw provided. Do not drill into the vehicle floor, bed, or any exposed surfaces.
Before drilling, verify what is behind any surface to avoid damage to the vehicle and personal injury. Do not drill into the vehicle floor, bed, or any exposed surfaces. Choose a grounding point on the vehicle's frame or cross member. Clean dirt and rust proofing from the area before drilling the 3/32" hole.
A 15 amp fuse is required. The fuse holder is provided with the T-Connector. After connecting the black 12 gauge wire to the vehicle's positive battery cable using the yellow butt connector, install the 15 amp fuse into the fuse holder in step 9.
Route the black 12 gauge wire from the T-Connector's grey 12-pin connector either through a grommet along the exterior frame or along existing wiring through the thresholds into the engine compartment, avoiding areas that may pinch or break the wire. Remove the fuse from the yellow fuse holder, cut the fuse holder wire, attach the ring terminal, and secure it to the vehicle's positive (+) battery cable. Connect the other end of the fuse holder to the black 12 gauge wire using the yellow butt connector provided.
The grey 12-pin connector is part of the T-Connector harness. It connects to the mating connector on the black box-module. Ensure the mating surfaces are clean and free of dirt, and insert the connector fully with locking tabs in place. This connector carries the power and signal connections for the trailer lights.
Mount the black box-module on a flat surface in an out-of-the-way location inside the vehicle interior only. The surface must be free of moisture and mounted high enough to avoid direct contact with water or liquid. Do not mount it on the exterior or in areas exposed to elements or moisture, as this could cause serious damage to the vehicle and module.
Secure the remainder of the T-Connector harness with the cable ties provided to prevent damage or rattling. Be careful to avoid areas that would pinch, cut, or melt the wire. When reinstalling trim panels, threshold, storage covers, and floor covering, be careful not to pinch or cut the wires.
Do not exceed the lower of your towing manufacturer's rating or these limits: maximum 2 stop/turn lights per side (4.2 amps total) or maximum tail lights (7.5 amps). Overloading the circuit can cause fires. Consult your vehicle's owner's manual and instruction sheet for additional information on your specific towing capacity.
After installation is complete and all connections are made, test and verify the installation with a test light or by connecting an actual trailer. All connections must be complete for the T-Connector to function properly. The manual recommends using a test-probe (included in required tools) to verify proper operation.
Store the 4-flat connector in the rear cargo area when not in use. This protects it from damage and keeps it accessible for when you need to connect a trailer.
The connection sequence is: (1) Connect yellow/green wires to the vehicle's mating connector underneath the rear (step 5); (2) Connect red/brown wires to the driver's side taillight pocket connectors (step 6); (3) Connect the white grounding wire to the vehicle frame (step 7); (4) Connect the grey 12-pin connector to the black box-module and route the black 12 gauge wire to the battery (step 8); (5) Reconnect the negative battery cable and install the 15 amp fuse (step 9).
Route the yellow/green wires from inside the rear cargo area behind the side trim panel and out through the exposed hole, then up to the grommet and seat it (step 4). Route the red/brown wires up to the driver's side taillight pocket (step 6). Route the black 12 gauge wire either through a grommet along the exterior frame or along existing wiring through the thresholds into the engine compartment, avoiding areas that may pinch or break the wire (step 8).
The grommet is a rubber seal on the vehicle's wiring harness. Unseating it means removing it from its current position. This is necessary to allow you to push the harness and grommet into the vehicle interior so you can access the wiring from inside the cargo area to make the T-Connector connections (step 3). After routing the wires, you seat the grommet again to secure it in place (step 4).
The manual states: 'Do Not Remove Panel. Removing panel can result in damage.' You only need to remove the 3 screws to loosen it enough to access the wiring harness behind it. Completely removing the panel risks damaging the panel or the vehicle's interior.
When connecting any T-Connector harness to a vehicle mating connector, push the connector in fully until the locking tabs click into place. The manual emphasizes this for all connections: yellow/green wires (step 5), red/brown wires (step 6), and the grey 12-pin connector (step 8). Be careful not to damage the locking tabs during insertion. All connector surfaces should be clean and free of dirt before connecting.
Clean all connector surfaces to be free of dirt before connecting them. This applies to the vehicle's wiring harness connectors and the T-Connector mating surfaces. Dirty connectors can prevent proper electrical contact and cause the system to malfunction.
Yes, it is designed for the Kia Sportage. Confirm your specific model year with the manufacturer, as the manual does not specify which years are compatible.
Yes, disconnect and isolate the negative battery terminal before starting installation. Reconnect it after all wiring connections are complete.
Yes, you must drill one 3/32" hole for the grounding wire on the vehicle's frame or cross member. Do not drill into the floor, bed, or exposed surfaces.
Trim panel remover, 10 mm socket/ratchet or wrench, drill with 3/32" bit, 1/4" socket, wire crimpers, wire cutters, Phillips screwdriver, fish tape, and test-probe.
A 15 amp fuse is required. Install it in the fuse holder after all connections are complete.
Do not exceed 2 stop/turn lights per side (4.2 amps) or maximum tail lights (7.5 amps). Overloading can cause fires.
Mount it on a flat, out-of-the-way surface inside the vehicle only, in a dry location high enough to avoid water contact. Never mount it on the exterior.
Test and verify with a test light or by connecting a trailer once all connections are complete. All connections must be complete for proper function.
The manual states: 'All connections must be complete for the T-Connector to function properly.' Verify that: (1) all three T-Connector harnesses are fully inserted and locked (yellow/green, red/brown, and grey 12-pin); (2) the white grounding wire is securely fastened to the vehicle frame; (3) the black 12 gauge wire is connected to the positive battery cable through the fuse holder; (4) the 15 amp fuse is installed in the fuse holder; (5) the negative battery cable is reconnected; and (6) all connector surfaces are clean and free of dirt. Test with a test light or trailer to verify operation.
Ensure that the red/brown T-Connector wires are routed correctly and not pinched or caught in the taillight housing. The wires should be routed up to the driver's side taillight pocket and connected to the vehicle's mating connectors before reassembling the taillight assembly. Verify that the connectors are fully inserted and locked, and that no wires are blocking the taillight housing from seating properly.
Route all wires carefully to avoid areas that would pinch, cut, or melt the wire. Use the cable ties provided to secure the harness in place. When reinstalling trim panels, threshold, storage covers, and floor covering, be careful not to pinch or cut the wires. Avoid routing wires through sharp edges or areas with moving parts.
The white grounding wire must be securely fastened to a clean grounding point on the vehicle's frame or cross member using the eyelet and screw provided. If the connection is loose, tighten the screw. If corrosion is present, remove the wire, clean the grounding point with a wire brush to remove rust and oxidation, and reinstall the eyelet and screw. Ensure the grounding surface is clean and free of dirt and rust proofing before installation.
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