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2011 - 2017 Nissan Quest
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Tekonsha is a leading manufacturer of electronic trailer brake controllers, pioneering the category in the 1970s. The lineup spans proportional units such as the Prodigy P3 and Prodigy iD, time-delayed controllers, the wireless Prodigy RF, plus vehicle-specific wiring harnesses, adapters and trailer brake components engineered for smooth, predictable stopping at any speed.
Tekonsha Engineering Company began in 1964 building RV steps and mirrors. Within a few years it had found its real calling, and by the 1970s Tekonsha was pioneering the manufacture of electronic trailer brake controllers, the product category that still defines the brand. More than half a century later it remains the reference name in trailer braking and is part of the Horizon Global group alongside Reese, Draw-Tite, Fulton, Bulldog and Wesbar.
A brake controller is the component that tells a trailer's electric brakes how hard to work and when, and getting that right is the difference between a controlled stop and a shove from behind. Tekonsha builds both major types. Proportional controllers use an internal accelerometer to sense how quickly the tow vehicle is slowing and apply trailer braking to match, so light braking stays light and hard braking is immediate. Time-delayed controllers ramp to a preset output over a fixed interval, a simpler and more economical approach that suits occasional towing.
The current brake controller range covers most of that ground. The Prodigy iD pairs with a phone through Tekonsha's EDGE technology for setup and monitoring, the P3 offers storable settings for multiple trailers and a trilingual colour LED display, the Prodigy P2 adds a dimmable display and boost mode for heavier loads, and the Voyager keeps operation simple and dependable. The Prodigy RF mounts to the trailer itself and controls wirelessly, which suits rental fleets and drivers who swap tow vehicles.
Installation is supported by vehicle-specific brake control harnesses that plug into a factory connector rather than requiring cut-and-splice wiring, along with mounting brackets and adapters. Matched controller bundles pair a unit with the correct harness. Products are tested to meet and often exceed published industry standards.
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1 compatible vehicles
| Year | Make & Model | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| 2011 - 2017 | Nissan Quest | — |
Yes, the 2011-2017 Nissan Quest Tekonsha Custom 7-Way + Brake Controller Install Kit (Part #TBCW23981) is designed to fit the 2011-2017 Nissan Quest.
The 2011-2017 Nissan Quest Tekonsha Custom 7-Way + Brake Controller Install Kit (Part #TBCW23981) fits the following vehicles: 2011-2017 Nissan Quest. Always verify your specific year, make, and model before ordering.
The 2011-2017 Nissan Quest Tekonsha Custom 7-Way + Brake Controller Install Kit (Part #TBCW23981) fits 2011-2017 Nissan Quest models. The 2017 model year is the last year covered by this part number. For newer models, check for an updated version.
The 2011-2017 Nissan Quest Tekonsha Custom 7-Way + Brake Controller Install Kit (Part #TBCW23981) Refer to the included instructions for installation details. Basic hand tools are typically all you need.
The BRAKE mate is a trailer brake control system that allows you to control trailer brakes from your vehicle. It connects to your vehicle's electrical system and includes a brake control unit that mounts under the dash, circuit breakers for power management, and a prewired connector that attaches to your trailer.
The manual does not specify which vehicle makes, models, or years are compatible with the BRAKE mate. Contact Cequent Towing Products technical service at (888) 521-0510 or consult a fitment database to confirm compatibility with your specific vehicle.
Yes. Step 4 of the installation instructions requires connecting the 4-pole flat connector to the vehicle's connector, which means your vehicle must already have a 4-pole flat connector. If your vehicle does not have one, the BRAKE mate cannot be installed using these instructions.
The kit includes: 1 prewired connector, 1 heavy duty flasher, 1 20 amp circuit breaker, 1 40 amp circuit breaker, 5 #10 G-ring connectors, 2 3/8" G-ring connectors, 5 Scotch locks, 8 self-tapping screws, and 6 wire tie straps.
The manual does not specify required tools. However, based on the installation steps, you will likely need a drill (to create a firewall hole if one does not exist), wire strippers, a screwdriver (for self-tapping screws), and possibly a crimper or pliers for ring connectors. Contact technical service at (888) 521-0510 for a complete tool list.
The manual does not specify whether the battery must be disconnected before installation. Contact Cequent Towing Products technical service at (888) 521-0510 for safety guidance before beginning work.
Mount the bracket for the round connector on the bumper if that is where you intend to install it. Some hitches have built-in brackets, so check your hitch first before mounting a separate bracket.
Mount the brake control unit under the dash onto something firm. The unit must be securely fastened to a solid surface.
Mount the 2 circuit breakers (20 amp and 40 amp) end to end on the firewall within reach of the BLUE/BLACK cable. Secure them with the self-tapping screws supplied in the kit.
You may need to drill a hole through the firewall to run the BLUE/BLACK 2-strand wire from the engine bay into the cab. Look for an existing spot first; if none is available, drill a hole and seal it with a rubber grommet or silicone to prevent water and debris from entering the cab.
Some hitch brackets may need to be cut to allow the various connectors to pass through. Check your specific hitch bracket during installation; if it blocks connector passage, you will need to cut it.
Yes. In step 9, you must cut the black wire to create two open ends. These ends are then fitted with ring connectors and attached to the 40 amp and 20 amp circuit breakers respectively.
WHITE = ground wire; BLUE/BLACK = 2-strand power and trailer brake wire (runs from rear connector to front of vehicle and through firewall); RED = power wire from brake control unit; BLUE = trailer brake wire from brake control unit; GREEN = wire from brake control unit to brake switch.
Connect the WHITE ground wire to the frame of the vehicle. This provides the ground connection for the system.
Run the BLUE/BLACK 2-strand wire along the frame rail to the front of the vehicle, avoiding the exhaust, axles, and brake cables. Secure it with the plastic tie straps supplied. Then run it up the firewall, avoiding the steering mechanism, and secure it with ties.
Split the BLUE/BLACK 2-strand wire down the middle. Connect the RED (power) wire of the brake control unit to the BLACK wire using a Scotch lock. Connect the BLUE (trailer brake) wire of the brake control unit to the BLUE wire using a Scotch lock. Connect the WHITE wire of the brake control unit to the ground on the vehicle body. Connect the GREEN wire of the brake control unit to the inactive side of the brake switch.
Run a heavy gauge wire from the battery or equivalent power source to the battery side of either circuit breaker. Attach a #10 G-ring connector to one end of the wire. Then split a wire off this main wire to the 20 amp breaker using a Scotch lock and attach a #10 G-ring connector to the end of this wire. Alternatively, you can run a jumper between the two breakers.
The circuit breakers protect the electrical system. The 40 amp breaker is connected to the auxiliary side of the wire going to the rear connector. The 20 amp breaker is connected to the auxiliary side of the wire going through the firewall to the brake control unit.
The heavy duty flasher is a replacement turn signal flasher. If your turn signals blink too fast after installation, replace your vehicle's original turn signal flasher with the one supplied in the kit.
After attaching the round connector with self-tapping screws, test the connector for: running lights, brake lights, turn signals, and hot wire (power). Note that the brake control output cannot be tested unless a trailer is connected to the connector.
If the turn signals are blinking too fast after installation, replace the turn signal flasher with the heavy duty flasher supplied in the BRAKE mate kit.
After drilling a hole through the firewall to run the BLUE/BLACK wire into the cab, seal the hole with a rubber grommet or silicone to prevent water and debris from entering the vehicle.
When running the BLUE/BLACK 2-strand wire along the frame rail and up the firewall, avoid the exhaust, axles, brake cables, and steering mechanism. These components can damage the wire or be damaged by it. Secure the wire with the supplied plastic tie straps.
Your vehicle must have a 4-pole flat connector. Contact Cequent Towing Products at (888) 521-0510 or check a fitment database to confirm compatibility with your specific make, model, and year.
The kit includes a prewired connector, brake control unit, 20 amp and 40 amp circuit breakers, 5 #10 G-ring connectors, 2 3/8" G-ring connectors, 5 Scotch locks, 8 self-tapping screws, 6 wire tie straps, and a heavy duty flasher.
You may need to drill a hole through the firewall to run the brake wire into the cab if an existing hole is not available. The hole must be sealed with a rubber grommet or silicone.
Connect WHITE (ground) to frame, RED (power) to BLACK wire, BLUE (trailer brake) to BLUE wire, GREEN to brake switch, and run BLUE/BLACK from rear connector through firewall to brake control unit.
Test for running lights, brake lights, turn signals, and hot wire (power). Brake control output cannot be tested without a trailer connected. If turn signals blink too fast, replace the flasher with the one supplied.
Avoid routing the BLUE/BLACK wire near the exhaust, axles, brake cables, or steering mechanism. Secure all wires with the supplied plastic tie straps.
Yes, this T-Connector is designed for the Nissan Quest. The manual covers installation for this vehicle model. If you have questions about your specific model year, contact the manufacturer or your installer to confirm compatibility.
The T-Connector package includes the T-Connector harness with grey 12-pin and 1-pin connectors, a black box-module, a 15 amp fuse, cable ties, an eyelet and screw for grounding, and a white grounding wire. The package is designed to integrate with your vehicle's existing taillight harness.
You will need: a trim panel remover, 10mm socket and ratchet (or 10mm wrench), a drill with 3/32" drill bit, a flat screwdriver, and a test-probe. Safety glasses are required during installation.
You must remove the taillights from both the driver and passenger sides by unbolting them from the rear tailgate. You also need to remove the threshold, trunk floor panels, and trays. On the driver's side only, partially remove the lower interior trim panels, being careful not to damage the clips.
Yes. You must drill one 3/32" hole to secure the white grounding wire. Before drilling, verify what is behind the surface to avoid damage to the vehicle or personal injury. Do not drill into the vehicle floor or bed, and do not drill into any exposed surfaces. Clean dirt and rustproofing from the area first.
Yes. On the driver's side, locate the grommet between the taillight pocket and trunk, and carefully slit it as shown in the manual diagram (Figure D). This allows the grey 12-pin and 1-pin connectors to pass through into the vehicle's cargo area.
Mount the black box-module on a flat surface in an out-of-the-way place inside the vehicle. The module must be mounted ONLY in the INTERIOR of the vehicle. Do not mount it on the exterior or in areas exposed to the elements or moisture, as this could cause serious damage to the vehicle and module.
On the driver's side, attach the end of the T-Connector containing the yellow and brown wires to the vehicle's taillight harness. Ensure the connectors are fully inserted with locking tabs in place. Locate the 1-pin housing taped to the taillight harness on the driver side and plug the 1-pin housing from the T-Connector harness into it.
Route the harness containing the green wire and 4-Flat connector down the opening behind the taillight on the driver's side, then to the center of the vehicle. Route the harness containing the green wire underneath the vehicle and up through the opening behind the passenger's side taillight. Route the grey 12-pin and 1-pin connectors through the sliced grommet into the vehicle's cargo area.
The grounding wire is white. Locate a suitable grounding point near the connector inside the vehicle. Clean dirt and rustproofing from the area. Drill a 3/32" hole and secure the white wire using the eyelet and screw provided. Do not drill into the vehicle floor or bed.
Install a 15 amp fuse in the position labeled "20A Trailer" in the fuse box on the driver side near the front of the vehicle. Open the hood, unlatch the fuse door, insert the 15 amp fuse included with the T-Connector package, and latch the fuse box.
The T-Connector harness includes yellow, brown, green, and white wires. The yellow and brown wires are at the end that connects to the vehicle's taillight harness on the driver's side. The green wire is routed with the 4-Flat connector and underneath the vehicle. The white wire is the grounding wire.
From inside the vehicle, locate the T-Connector's grey 12-pin connector and insert it into the mating connector located on the black box-module. Check that the mating surfaces of the wiring connectors match. Ensure connectors are fully inserted with locking tabs in place. All connector surfaces should be clean and free of dirt.
Secure the remainder of the T-Connector harness with the cable ties provided to prevent damage or rattling. Be careful to avoid any areas that would pinch, cut, or melt the wire.
Reinstall the plastic trim panels, threshold, storage covers, floor covering, and other items removed during installation. Be careful not to pinch or cut the wires during reinstallation.
Test and verify the installation with a test light or trailer once installed. For the initial test, reset the vehicle electrical system by temporarily removing the key from the ignition. All connections must be complete for the T-Connector to function properly.
Do not exceed the lower of the towing manufacturer's rating (including in your vehicle owner's manual) or the specific amperage ratings stated on the product. The T-Connector uses a 15 amp fuse. Overloading circuits can cause fires.
Always wear safety glasses during installation. Before drilling, verify what is behind any surface to avoid damage to the vehicle and personal injury. Do not drill into exposed surfaces, the vehicle floor, or bed. Be careful not to damage clips or locking tabs on connectors. Avoid pinching, cutting, or melting wires when routing and securing the harness.
The 4-Flat connector is part of the T-Connector harness and is routed with the green wire. It is directed down the opening behind the taillight on the driver's side and then to the center of the vehicle. The manual does not provide additional details about its specific function or standard type.
Yes, the T-Connector (118547-037) is designed for the Nissan Quest.
Install a 15 amp fuse in the position labeled "20A Trailer" in the vehicle's fuse box on the driver side near the front.
Mount the black box-module on a flat, out-of-the-way surface inside the vehicle only. Never mount it on the exterior or in areas exposed to elements or moisture.
Do not exceed the lower of the towing manufacturer's rating (in your vehicle owner's manual) or the specific amperage ratings on the product. The T-Connector uses a 15 amp fuse. Overloading can cause fires.
Verify that all connections are complete. Ensure the grey 12-pin connector is fully inserted into the black box-module with locking tabs in place. Confirm the 1-pin housing is connected to the taillight harness on the driver's side. Check that the 15 amp fuse is installed in the "20A Trailer" position in the fuse box. Verify the white grounding wire is securely fastened with the eyelet and screw. Test with a test light or trailer. Reset the vehicle electrical system by temporarily removing the key from the ignition.
Ensure all connector surfaces are clean and free of dirt. Check that the mating surfaces of the connectors match correctly. Verify that you are not forcing the connector at an angle. The locking tabs should align properly. If the connector still will not insert, do not force it, as this could damage the locking tabs. Inspect both the grey 12-pin connector and the black box-module connector for any visible damage or debris.





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