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2011 - 2017 Honda Odyssey
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Tekonsha is a leading manufacturer of electronic trailer brake controllers, pioneering the category in the 1970s. The lineup spans proportional units such as the Prodigy P3 and Prodigy iD, time-delayed controllers, the wireless Prodigy RF, plus vehicle-specific wiring harnesses, adapters and trailer brake components engineered for smooth, predictable stopping at any speed.
Tekonsha Engineering Company began in 1964 building RV steps and mirrors. Within a few years it had found its real calling, and by the 1970s Tekonsha was pioneering the manufacture of electronic trailer brake controllers, the product category that still defines the brand. More than half a century later it remains the reference name in trailer braking and is part of the Horizon Global group alongside Reese, Draw-Tite, Fulton, Bulldog and Wesbar.
A brake controller is the component that tells a trailer's electric brakes how hard to work and when, and getting that right is the difference between a controlled stop and a shove from behind. Tekonsha builds both major types. Proportional controllers use an internal accelerometer to sense how quickly the tow vehicle is slowing and apply trailer braking to match, so light braking stays light and hard braking is immediate. Time-delayed controllers ramp to a preset output over a fixed interval, a simpler and more economical approach that suits occasional towing.
The current brake controller range covers most of that ground. The Prodigy iD pairs with a phone through Tekonsha's EDGE technology for setup and monitoring, the P3 offers storable settings for multiple trailers and a trilingual colour LED display, the Prodigy P2 adds a dimmable display and boost mode for heavier loads, and the Voyager keeps operation simple and dependable. The Prodigy RF mounts to the trailer itself and controls wirelessly, which suits rental fleets and drivers who swap tow vehicles.
Installation is supported by vehicle-specific brake control harnesses that plug into a factory connector rather than requiring cut-and-splice wiring, along with mounting brackets and adapters. Matched controller bundles pair a unit with the correct harness. Products are tested to meet and often exceed published industry standards.
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1 compatible vehicles
| Year | Make & Model | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| 2011 - 2017 | Honda Odyssey | — |
Yes, the 2011-2017 Honda Odyssey Tekonsha Custom 7-Way + Brake Controller Install Kit (Part #TBCW23293) is designed to fit the 2011-2017 Honda Odyssey.
The 2011-2017 Honda Odyssey Tekonsha Custom 7-Way + Brake Controller Install Kit (Part #TBCW23293) fits the following vehicles: 2011-2017 Honda Odyssey. Always verify your specific year, make, and model before ordering.
The 2011-2017 Honda Odyssey Tekonsha Custom 7-Way + Brake Controller Install Kit (Part #TBCW23293) fits 2011-2017 Honda Odyssey models. The 2017 model year is the last year covered by this part number. For newer models, check for an updated version.
The 2011-2017 Honda Odyssey Tekonsha Custom 7-Way + Brake Controller Install Kit (Part #TBCW23293) Refer to the included instructions for installation details. Basic hand tools are typically all you need.
The BRAKE mate is a trailer brake control system that allows you to control trailer brakes from your vehicle. It connects to your vehicle's electrical system and includes a brake control unit that mounts under the dash, circuit breakers for power management, and a prewired connector that attaches to your trailer.
The manual does not specify which vehicle makes, models, or years are compatible with the BRAKE mate. Contact Cequent Towing Products technical service at (888) 521-0510 or consult a fitment database to confirm compatibility with your specific vehicle.
Yes. Step 4 of the installation instructions requires connecting the 4-pole flat connector to the vehicle's connector, which means your vehicle must already have a 4-pole flat connector. If your vehicle does not have one, the BRAKE mate cannot be installed using these instructions.
The kit includes: 1 prewired connector, 1 heavy duty flasher, 1 20 amp circuit breaker, 1 40 amp circuit breaker, 5 #10 G-ring connectors, 2 3/8" G-ring connectors, 5 Scotch locks, 8 self-tapping screws, and 6 wire tie straps.
The manual does not specify required tools. However, based on the installation steps, you will likely need a drill (to create a firewall hole if one does not exist), wire strippers, a screwdriver (for self-tapping screws), and possibly a crimper or pliers for ring connectors. Contact technical service at (888) 521-0510 for a complete tool list.
The manual does not specify whether the battery must be disconnected before installation. Contact Cequent Towing Products technical service at (888) 521-0510 for safety guidance before beginning work.
Mount the bracket for the round connector on the bumper if that is where you intend to install it. Some hitches have built-in brackets, so check your hitch first before mounting a separate bracket.
Mount the brake control unit under the dash onto something firm. The unit must be securely fastened to a solid surface.
Mount the 2 circuit breakers (20 amp and 40 amp) end to end on the firewall within reach of the BLUE/BLACK cable. Secure them with the self-tapping screws supplied in the kit.
You may need to drill a hole through the firewall to run the BLUE/BLACK 2-strand wire from the engine bay into the cab. Look for an existing spot first; if none is available, drill a hole and seal it with a rubber grommet or silicone to prevent water and debris from entering the cab.
Some hitch brackets may need to be cut to allow the various connectors to pass through. Check your specific hitch bracket during installation; if it blocks connector passage, you will need to cut it.
Yes. In step 9, you must cut the black wire to create two open ends. These ends are then fitted with ring connectors and attached to the 40 amp and 20 amp circuit breakers respectively.
WHITE = ground wire; BLUE/BLACK = 2-strand power and trailer brake wire (runs from rear connector to front of vehicle and through firewall); RED = power wire from brake control unit; BLUE = trailer brake wire from brake control unit; GREEN = wire from brake control unit to brake switch.
Connect the WHITE ground wire to the frame of the vehicle. This provides the ground connection for the system.
Run the BLUE/BLACK 2-strand wire along the frame rail to the front of the vehicle, avoiding the exhaust, axles, and brake cables. Secure it with the plastic tie straps supplied. Then run it up the firewall, avoiding the steering mechanism, and secure it with ties.
Split the BLUE/BLACK 2-strand wire down the middle. Connect the RED (power) wire of the brake control unit to the BLACK wire using a Scotch lock. Connect the BLUE (trailer brake) wire of the brake control unit to the BLUE wire using a Scotch lock. Connect the WHITE wire of the brake control unit to the ground on the vehicle body. Connect the GREEN wire of the brake control unit to the inactive side of the brake switch.
Run a heavy gauge wire from the battery or equivalent power source to the battery side of either circuit breaker. Attach a #10 G-ring connector to one end of the wire. Then split a wire off this main wire to the 20 amp breaker using a Scotch lock and attach a #10 G-ring connector to the end of this wire. Alternatively, you can run a jumper between the two breakers.
The circuit breakers protect the electrical system. The 40 amp breaker is connected to the auxiliary side of the wire going to the rear connector. The 20 amp breaker is connected to the auxiliary side of the wire going through the firewall to the brake control unit.
The heavy duty flasher is a replacement turn signal flasher. If your turn signals blink too fast after installation, replace your vehicle's original turn signal flasher with the one supplied in the kit.
After attaching the round connector with self-tapping screws, test the connector for: running lights, brake lights, turn signals, and hot wire (power). Note that the brake control output cannot be tested unless a trailer is connected to the connector.
If the turn signals are blinking too fast after installation, replace the turn signal flasher with the heavy duty flasher supplied in the BRAKE mate kit.
After drilling a hole through the firewall to run the BLUE/BLACK wire into the cab, seal the hole with a rubber grommet or silicone to prevent water and debris from entering the vehicle.
When running the BLUE/BLACK 2-strand wire along the frame rail and up the firewall, avoid the exhaust, axles, brake cables, and steering mechanism. These components can damage the wire or be damaged by it. Secure the wire with the supplied plastic tie straps.
Your vehicle must have a 4-pole flat connector. Contact Cequent Towing Products at (888) 521-0510 or check a fitment database to confirm compatibility with your specific make, model, and year.
The kit includes a prewired connector, brake control unit, 20 amp and 40 amp circuit breakers, 5 #10 G-ring connectors, 2 3/8" G-ring connectors, 5 Scotch locks, 8 self-tapping screws, 6 wire tie straps, and a heavy duty flasher.
You may need to drill a hole through the firewall to run the brake wire into the cab if an existing hole is not available. The hole must be sealed with a rubber grommet or silicone.
Connect WHITE (ground) to frame, RED (power) to BLACK wire, BLUE (trailer brake) to BLUE wire, GREEN to brake switch, and run BLUE/BLACK from rear connector through firewall to brake control unit.
Test for running lights, brake lights, turn signals, and hot wire (power). Brake control output cannot be tested without a trailer connected. If turn signals blink too fast, replace the flasher with the one supplied.
Avoid routing the BLUE/BLACK wire near the exhaust, axles, brake cables, or steering mechanism. Secure all wires with the supplied plastic tie straps.
The T-Connector is an electrical harness assembly that integrates with your vehicle's rear fuse box to enable trailer lighting control. It includes a white 14-pin connector that plugs into the rear fuse box, a grey 12-pin connector that connects to a black box-module, a white wire with eyelet for grounding, a 4-flat connector for the trailer, and cable ties for securing the harness. The system allows you to control trailer stop, turn, and tail lights from your vehicle's electrical system.
Yes, the T-Connector is designed for the Honda Odyssey. The manual shows installation on a Honda Odyssey and provides specific steps for accessing the rear fuse box and interior components of that vehicle. However, the manual does not specify which model years are compatible, so you should verify the exact year of your vehicle with the manufacturer or retailer before purchasing.
Yes. If your vehicle is equipped with accessory backup sensors, the T-Connector is compatible. During installation, you unplug the sensor harness 14-pin connector from the rear fuse box, plug it into the other mating T-connector end, then plug the white 14-pin T-connector end into the fuse box. This allows the backup sensors to remain functional while the T-Connector is installed.
You will need: trim panel remover, flat screwdriver, test-probe, pliers, protective cloth, and a 10 mm socket or wrench. The protective cloth is used with pliers to safely remove threaded cargo net hooks without damage. The test-probe is used to verify electrical connections after installation.
The manual does not state whether fuses are included with the T-Connector. However, you must install one 10 amp fuse in rear fuse box position #8, and two 7.5 amp fuses in positions #2 and #11. You will need to obtain these fuses separately if they are not provided. Do not exceed these amperage ratings, as overloading the circuit can cause fires.
The manual does not explicitly state whether the battery must be disconnected before installation. However, the manual does instruct you to reset the vehicle electrical system after installation by temporarily removing the ignition key, reinserting it, and turning it to the proper position. For safety, consult your vehicle's owner's manual or a qualified technician regarding battery disconnection procedures.
Yes. Step 1 requires you to open the rear door and fold the rear seat forward. You must also temporarily remove the rear threshold plate. This provides access to the cargo area and fuse panel needed to route the T-Connector harness.
The rear threshold plate is a trim piece at the rear door opening that you temporarily remove in Step 1 to access the cargo area and route the T-Connector harness. Yes, you must reinstall it in Step 12 after the installation is complete, being careful not to pinch or cut the wires.
Starting from the cargo area, route the white T-Connector end up and behind the trim panel to the rear fuse box (Step 3). The harness should be secured with the cable ties provided to prevent damage or rattling. Be careful to avoid areas that would pinch, cut, or melt the wire. If routing through a grommet and along the exterior of the vehicle, avoid hot pipes, heat shields, the fuel tank, or any other points that may pinch or break the wire.
Mount the black box-module on a flat surface in an out-of-the-way location inside the vehicle. The surface must be free of moisture and mounted high enough to prevent exposure to direct contact with water or any liquid substance. The module must be mounted ONLY in the interior of the vehicle. Mounting on the exterior or in areas exposed to elements or moisture could cause serious damage to the vehicle and module.
If your vehicle has backup sensors, first unplug the sensor harness 14-pin connector from the rear fuse box connector and plug it into the other mating T-connector end (Step 4). Then plug the white 14-pin T-connector end into the mating connection in the fuse box connector (Step 5). Ensure the mating surfaces of the connectors match, are clean and free of dirt, and that connectors are fully inserted with locking tabs in place. Do not damage the locking tabs.
Locate the T-Connector's grey 12-pin connector and insert it into the mating connector located on the black box-module (Step 7). Check that the mating surfaces of the wiring connectors match. All connector surfaces should be clean and free of dirt. Be careful not to damage the locking tabs and ensure that connectors are fully inserted with locking tabs in place.
Route the white wire with eyelet towards the back of the vehicle near the threshold area (Step 6). Locate the existing ground stud. Loosen the bolt on the stud, place the screw eyelet on the stud, and re-tighten the bolt. Make sure all other ground connections are secure when removing and reattaching the ground stud, as this is critical for proper electrical function.
Install one 10 amp fuse in rear fuse box position #8. Install two 7.5 amp fuses in rear fuse box positions #2 and #11 (Step 9). Do not exceed these amperage ratings, as overloading the circuit can cause fires. Refer to your vehicle's fuse panel layout to locate these specific positions.
Mount the 4-flat connector in an accessible location (Step 11). If routing the wire through a grommet and along the exterior of the vehicle, be careful to avoid hot pipes, heat shields, the fuel tank, or any other points that may pinch or break the wire. The connector should be positioned so you can easily connect and disconnect your trailer.
Use pliers and a protective cloth to remove the threaded cargo net hook(s) (Steps 1-2). The protective cloth prevents damage to the hooks and surrounding trim. Set aside all items removed, being careful not to damage parts. You will reinstall the cargo net in Step 12 after the T-Connector installation is complete.
The fuse panel cover is located near the rear seat on the driver's side. Open the cover to access the relays and fuses (Step 2). Being careful not to damage clips, partially remove the lower interior trim panels on the vehicle to gain full access. The manual does not provide specific measurements or detailed diagrams of the fuse panel location.
Wear safety glasses and use all safety precautions during installation. Use a protective cloth with pliers when removing cargo net hooks to avoid damage. Be careful not to damage trim panel clips when removing interior panels. Avoid pinching, cutting, or melting wires during routing and reinstallation. Ensure all ground connections are secure when removing and reattaching the ground stud. Do not exceed the specified fuse amperage ratings, as overloading the circuit can cause fires.
Do not exceed the lower of the towing manufacturer rating or the following limits: maximum stop/turn light is 2 per side (4.2 amps total per side), and maximum tail lights is 7.5 amps. Overloading the circuit can cause fires. The fuses you install (one 10 amp in position #8, and two 7.5 amp in positions #2 and #11) are sized to protect the circuit. Consult your vehicle's owner's manual and the trailer manufacturer's specifications for additional information.
All connections must be complete for the T-Connector to function properly. Test and verify the installation with a test light or by connecting an actual trailer once installed (Step 10). For the initial test, reset the vehicle electrical system by temporarily removing the key from the ignition, reinserting the key, and turning it to the proper position. This resets the system and allows you to verify that all lights are functioning correctly.
After reinstalling the threshold, trim panels, cargo net, and cover in Step 12, verify that no wires are pinched or cut. Ensure all interior trim is properly seated and secure. Test the T-Connector with a test light or trailer to confirm all electrical connections are working correctly. Check that the black box-module is securely mounted and that all cable ties are properly securing the harness.
Yes. If equipped with backup sensors, unplug the sensor harness from the fuse box, plug it into the T-Connector, then plug the T-Connector into the fuse box. The sensors remain functional.
Install one 10 amp fuse in position #8, and two 7.5 amp fuses in positions #2 and #11. Do not exceed these ratings as overloading can cause fires.
Do not exceed: 2 stop/turn lights per side (4.2 amps per side) or 7.5 amps for tail lights. Consult your vehicle and trailer manufacturer specifications.


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