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These dependable custom hitches are manufactured for 2014-2018 Mazda 3 and attach to your vehicle?s frame or bumper for a sleek, clean appearance. Each hitch also has a 1-1/4 inch square receiver tube opening so you can easily attach accessories like a bike rack or cargo carrier, or a utility trailer. DRAW-TITE Class 1 custom trailer hitches come complete with all the mounting hardware needed for installation and are backed by a nationwide lifetime limited warranty. So, whether you are headed out to the campground and need a place for the cooler, taking the bikes to hit the trails in the park, or you are tackling a DIY project (maybe some landscaping or a home repair), choose DRAW-TITE and travel with confidence knowing your setup is connected with the security only DRAW-TITE can provide. DRAW-TITE: North America?s Favorite Hitch.
Draw-Tite has designed custom-fit trailer hitches since 1946 and is one of North America's most widely fitted hitch brands. Receiver hitches use solid all-welded construction and low-profile designs that follow modern vehicle contours, install with minimal bumper cutting or drilling, meet or exceed V5 CSA and SAE J684 standards, and carry a limited lifetime warranty.
Draw-Tite has been leading custom-fit trailer hitch design and engineering since its founding in 1946, and it remains one of the most widely fitted hitch brands in North America. The company's stated approach is straightforward: every hitch is tested rigorously so that it performs well beyond published industry standards, a philosophy it markets as Tested Tough. It sits within the Horizon Global towing group alongside Reese, Fulton, Bulldog, Tekonsha, Bargman and Wesbar.
Custom fit is the defining characteristic. Rather than adapting a universal design, Draw-Tite engineers a trailer hitch for a specific make, model and model year, so it bolts to existing frame locations with minimal bumper cutting or drilling. Low-profile designs follow the rear contours and aerodynamic styling of modern vehicles, which matters more than it once did now that rear fascias are shaped and sensor-equipped. Construction is solid all-welded steel for maximum strength, and every hitch meets or exceeds V5 CSA and SAE J684 standards and is backed by a nationwide limited lifetime warranty.
The range spans receiver sizes and classes to suit different loads, from 1-1/4 inch receivers for bike racks, cargo carriers and light trailers up through 2 inch receivers for heavier towing. Front mount hitches add a receiver at the front of the vehicle for winch mounts, snow plows, spare carriers and precise trailer positioning.
The Hidden Hitch series takes concealment further by mounting behind the vehicle's rear fascia, so the vehicle keeps its factory appearance until a removable receiver is fitted. Each is custom designed per make and model for a no-drill installation that does not compromise ground clearance, rated for up to 3,500 pounds gross trailer weight and 350 pounds tongue weight. Matching plug-and-play wiring completes the towing system.
Experts available to answer your questions
Call 888-634-94941 compatible vehicles
| Year | Make & Model | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| 1992 - 1994 | Mazda 3 | Hatchback |
The 2014-2018 Mazda 3 Hatchback Draw-tite Class 1 Trailer Hitch, 1-1/4 Inch Square Receiver Bundle w/ Plug-n-Play T-One Wiring Harness (Part #DTB24914-118405) fits the following vehicles: 1992-1994 Mazda 3. Always verify your specific year, make, and model before ordering.
The 2014-2018 Mazda 3 Hatchback Draw-tite Class 1 Trailer Hitch, 1-1/4 Inch Square Receiver Bundle w/ Plug-n-Play T-One Wiring Harness (Part #DTB24914-118405) fits 1992-1994 Mazda 3 models. The 1994 model year is the last year covered by this part number. For newer models, check for an updated version.
Yes, the 2014-2018 Mazda 3 Hatchback Draw-tite Class 1 Trailer Hitch, 1-1/4 Inch Square Receiver Bundle w/ Plug-n-Play T-One Wiring Harness (Part #DTB24914-118405) is designed to fit the 1992-1994 Mazda 3.
The 2014-2018 Mazda 3 Hatchback Draw-tite Class 1 Trailer Hitch, 1-1/4 Inch Square Receiver Bundle w/ Plug-n-Play T-One Wiring Harness (Part #DTB24914-118405) Refer to the included instructions for installation details. Basic hand tools are typically all you need.
Yes. Hitch part number 24914 is designed for the Mazda 3 5 Door. The installation manual confirms this application.
The maximum gross trailer weight is 2000 LB (908 kg) and the maximum tongue weight is 200 LB (90.8 kg). However, you must not exceed the lower of these limits or your vehicle manufacturer's towing rating.
You will need: pullwire (provided with the hitch), lubricant or soapy water, a flashlight, a utility knife, and wrenches in 11/16" and 19mm sizes. No drill bits are required because no drilling is needed for this installation.
No. The manual explicitly states "Drill Bits: None". This hitch uses existing factory weldnuts and does not require any drilling.
The wiring access location is PC3, 4. This information is provided in the manual for reference during installation.
Yes. Step 3 of the installation requires you to lower the exhaust system at the rubber isolator. Spraying lubricant or soapy water on the metal hanger rod and rubber isolator helps with removal. You must support the exhaust during installation and not let it drop.
Use the pullwires provided with the hitch. Feed the spacers and carriage bolts into position through the middle slot of each frame rail. Keep the pullwire attached. It is easier if the bolt and spacer are not engaged (not connected together) while inserting them into the frame. Kink the pullwire to keep the spacer independent of the bolt.
1. Locate and verify the rear weldnut on the outside of each frame rail above the access hole using an M12 hex bolt. 2. Feed spacers and carriage bolts into position using pullwires. 3. Lower the exhaust system. 4. Raise the hitch into position, feed pullwires through the slots on the bars, and slide the hitch through the exhaust cutouts on the fascia. 5. Attach the 7/16" conical washer and hex nut loosely to the hitch for support. 6. Install the ½" conical washer and M12 bolt into the existing weldnut. 7. Raise the exhaust back into position. 8. Torque all fasteners to specification.
Leave fasteners loose during the initial positioning steps. In step 4, attach the 7/16" conical washer and hex nut loosely to the hitch for support only. Tighten all fasteners to their final torque specifications only after the hitch is fully positioned and the exhaust system is raised back into place (step 7).
All M12 CL8.8 fasteners must be tightened with a torque wrench to 68 Lb.-Ft. (92 N·M).
All 7/16-14 GR5 fasteners must be tightened with a torque wrench to 50 Lb.-Ft. (68 N·M).
The hitch includes: 2 M12 x 1.25 x 30 CL8.8 hex bolts, 2 spacers (.250 x .875 x 3.00), 2 ½" conical washers, 2 7/16" conical washers, 2 7/16-14 x 14 x 1.75 GR5 carriage bolts, and 2 7/16-14 hex nuts. Pullwires are also provided. Additional fasteners are available in fastener kit 24914F if needed.
Yes. The manual states: "sort hardware prior to hitch installation to confirm conical washers are kept coordinated with bolts." The ½" conical washers are used with the M12 bolts, and the 7/16" conical washers are used with the 7/16-14 carriage bolts.
No. The drawbar kit (part number 3593) is sold separately and must be purchased if you need a drawbar for towing.
The drawbar must be used in the RISE position only. Do not use it in any other position.
Observe safety precautions when working beneath a vehicle and wear eye protection. Do not cut access or attachment holes with a torch. Support the exhaust system during installation and do not let it drop. If the hitch is removed, plug all holes in the trunk pan or other body panels to prevent entry of water and exhaust fumes.
Check the hitch frequently to ensure all fasteners and the ball are properly tightened. The manual does not specify a retorque interval; contact the manufacturer for guidance on how often to inspect and retorque fasteners after initial installation.
If the hitch is removed, plug all holes in the trunk pan or other body panels to prevent entry of water and exhaust fumes.
A hitch or ball which has been damaged should be removed and replaced. Do not continue to use a damaged hitch.
Yes, hitch 24914 is designed for the Mazda 3 5 Door.
No drilling is required. You will need wrenches (11/16" and 19mm), pullwire (provided), lubricant or soapy water, flashlight, and utility knife.
M12 CL8.8 fasteners: 68 Lb.-Ft. (92 N·M). 7/16-14 GR5 fasteners: 50 Lb.-Ft. (68 N·M). Use a torque wrench for all fasteners.
Maximum gross trailer weight is 2000 LB (908 kg) and maximum tongue weight is 200 LB (90.8 kg). Do not exceed the lower of these limits or your vehicle manufacturer's rating.
Wear eye protection. Do not cut holes with a torch. Support the exhaust system during installation. If removed, plug all holes in the trunk pan or body panels to prevent water and exhaust fume entry.
The T-Connector is a trailer wiring adapter that allows you to connect a trailer to your vehicle's electrical system. It taps into your vehicle's existing taillight wiring to provide power for trailer lights. The product includes a black box connector, wiring harnesses with colour-coded wires (red, yellow, green, black, and white), a fuse holder with a 10 amp fuse, butt connectors, an eyelet, a screw, foam-padded tape, double-sided tape, and cable ties.
The T-Connector 18405-037 is designed for Mazda 6 Sedan and Coupe, Toyota Camry, Mazda CX-7, and Toyota FJ Cruiser. Each vehicle has specific installation instructions. If your vehicle is not listed, this product will not fit.
Yes. The Toyota FJ Cruiser has significantly different installation instructions that begin on page 4 of the manual. The FJ Cruiser installation involves removing the jack storage compartment door, threshold plate, trim panels, and access panels. If your vehicle is equipped with an optional subwoofer unit on the passenger side, additional removal steps are required. The wiring connection points and routing are also different from the other supported vehicles.
You will need: a drill with a 3/32" drill bit, a Phillips head screwdriver, a 10mm socket and ratchet or 10mm wrench, wire crimpers, wire cutters, and a trim panel remover tool. These tools are required for the standard installation on Mazda 6, Toyota Camry, and Mazda CX-7. The Toyota FJ Cruiser installation requires the same tools.
Yes. You must disconnect the vehicle's negative (-) battery cable before connecting the fuse holder to the positive battery cable. This is done in step 7 of the installation. After all wiring connections are complete, you reconnect the negative battery cable in step 8 and install the 10 amp fuse.
Drilling is required only for the grounding connection (step 5). You must drill a 3/32" hole to secure the white ground wire using the supplied eyelet and screw. However, if your vehicle has an existing ground stud, you can use that instead by loosening the bolt, placing the screw eyelet on the stud, and re-tightening the bolt. Before drilling, you must verify what is behind the surface to avoid damage to the vehicle or personal injury. Do not drill into any exposed surfaces.
Yes, depending on your vehicle. For Toyota Camry and Mazda CX-7, you must carefully slit a rubber grommet to route the black 12 gauge wire out underneath the vehicle. For Mazda 6 Sedan and Coupe, the wire is routed through the taillight socket opening instead. For Toyota FJ Cruiser, you must cut a hole in the rubber grommet located near the wheel well to route the black wire through.
The T-Connector uses colour-coded wires for different functions: Red wire connects to the driver's side taillight for stop/turn signals; Yellow wire connects to the driver's side taillight for additional stop/turn signals; Green wire connects to the passenger's side taillight for stop/turn signals; Black wire connects to the vehicle's positive battery through a 10 amp fuse for power; White wire is the ground connection to the vehicle's chassis or frame.
The 10 amp fuse protects the circuit from overload. It is installed in the yellow fuse holder provided with the T-Connector. The fuse holder is connected between the black 12 gauge wire (which runs from the vehicle's positive battery terminal) and the black wire from the T-Connector black box. The fuse must be installed in step 8 after all other connections are complete.
Approximately 2 feet (0.60 meters) of black 12 gauge wire is routed into the trunk area. The remaining wire is routed through the opening in the taillight socket and behind the bumper (for Mazda 6), or out underneath the vehicle (for Toyota Camry and Mazda CX-7), or along the frame rail and through a grommet near the wheel well (for Toyota FJ Cruiser).
The T-Connector has the following maximum load limits: Max. stop/turn light: 1 per side (2.1 amps); Max. tail lights: (4.2 amps). Do not exceed the lower of your towing manufacturer's rating or these limits. Overloading the circuit can cause fires. Consult your vehicle's owner's manual and instruction sheet for additional information about your specific towing capacity.
After installation is complete, test and verify the installation with a test light or by connecting an actual trailer. All connections must be complete for the T-Connector to function properly. The manual emphasizes that testing is essential before using the T-Connector with a trailer.
After installation, verify that: all wiring connectors are fully inserted with locking tabs in place; the taillight housing is properly seated on its alignment tab (Mazda 6); the black wire is positioned between the taillight housing gasket and foam-padded tape (Mazda 6); all cable ties are secure and wires are protected from pinching or cutting; the T-Connector black box is securely mounted with double-sided tape; the 10 amp fuse is installed in the fuse holder; the negative battery cable is reconnected; and the installation functions properly with a test light or trailer.
The T-Connector black box is mounted on the driver's side on the floor of the rear cargo area. The area must be cleaned with a mixture of rubbing alcohol and water before mounting. The black box is secured using the double-sided tape provided with the T-Connector. After mounting, the trunk threshold and felt trunk liner are replaced.
The black 12 gauge wire must be routed carefully from the vehicle's positive battery terminal to the T-Connector black box. You must avoid hot pipes, heat shields, the fuel tank, and any other points that may pinch or break the wire. For Mazda 6, Toyota Camry, and Mazda CX-7, the wire is routed underneath the bumper and into the engine compartment. For Toyota FJ Cruiser, the wire is routed from the front of the vehicle along the frame rail rearward to the rear driver's side, then through a rubber grommet near the wheel well.
No. Only the Mazda 6 Sedan and Coupe require removal of the driver's side taillight housing. For Toyota Camry and Mazda CX-7, the taillight housing is not removed; instead, you access the wiring through the trunk area and route the black wire through a rubber grommet. For Toyota FJ Cruiser, the taillight connectors are accessed by removing interior trim panels and access panels, but the taillight housing itself is not removed.
The foam-padded tape is applied to the driver's side taillight socket area (Mazda 6 only) to cover any sharp edges on the sheet metal. The black 12 gauge wire is positioned between the taillight housing gasket and the foam-padded tape to protect the wire from being pinched or damaged. The area must be cleaned with a mixture of rubbing alcohol and water before applying the tape.
The yellow butt connector is used to join two wires together. In the T-Connector installation, it is used in two places: (1) to connect the black 12 gauge wire and the red wire from the T-Connector black box (step 4), and (2) to connect the fuse holder to the black 12 gauge wire from the battery (step 7). The yellow butt connector is supplied with the T-Connector kit.
The T-Connector has separate harnesses with colour-coded wires that plug into the vehicle's existing taillight connectors. On the driver's side, attach the T-Connector harnesses containing the red and yellow wires to the connection points on the back of the driver's side taillight housing. On the passenger's side, attach the T-Connector harness containing the green wire to the connection points on the back of the passenger's side taillight housing. Ensure that all connectors are fully inserted with locking tabs in place. For Toyota FJ Cruiser, the connections are made to the vehicle's 3-pin and 2-pin rear tail lamp connectors.
The 4-flat connector should be stored in the rear cargo area (trunk) when not in use. This keeps it protected and readily available when you need to connect a trailer.
The cable ties are used to secure the remainder of the T-Connector harness to prevent damage or rattling. They must be applied carefully to avoid any areas that would cut or pinch the wire. Proper cable tie placement protects the wiring from being damaged during vehicle operation.
If your Toyota FJ Cruiser is equipped with an optional subwoofer unit on the passenger side, you must remove it before installing the T-Connector. The subwoofer removal involves: removing the access panel below the subwoofer; removing the front trim/grill assembly (8 clips); removing four 10mm bolts (an extension is needed for the two upper bolts); disconnecting the wiring harness; and carefully removing the subwoofer unit. After the T-Connector installation is complete, you must reinstall the subwoofer unit and ensure its connection plug is fully inserted.
For Toyota FJ Cruiser: (1) Locate the trailer wiring harness on the driver's side and route the red and yellow wire harnesses behind the trim panel to the access panel location; (2) Locate the vehicle's 3-pin rear tail lamp connector, separate it, and plug the red wire harness between the separated halves; (3) Locate the vehicle's 2-pin rear tail lamp connector, separate it, and plug the yellow wire harness between the separated halves; (4) Route the green wire harness to the passenger's side by routing it out of the driver's side trim panel, along the rear threshold area, behind the passenger's side trim panel, to the access panel location; (5) Repeat the 2-pin connector connection using the green wire harness on the passenger's side.
On the Toyota FJ Cruiser, the white ground wire with the ring terminal is connected to the bolt on the left side of the jack inside the jack storage compartment. You remove the bolt using a 10mm socket, place the ring terminal on the bolt, and re-tighten the bolt to secure the ground connection.
Yes. Disconnect the vehicle's negative (-) battery cable before connecting the fuse holder to the positive battery terminal. Reconnect it after all wiring is complete and the 10 amp fuse is installed.
The T-Connector uses a 10 amp fuse installed in the yellow fuse holder provided. This fuse protects the circuit from overload. Do not exceed the maximum load limits: 1 stop/turn light per side (2.1 amps) or max. tail lights (4.2 amps).
Max. stop/turn light: 1 per side (2.1 amps); Max. tail lights: (4.2 amps). Do not exceed the lower of your towing manufacturer's rating or these limits. Overloading can cause fires.
Verify that all connections are complete and fully inserted. Check that all T-Connector harnesses are properly connected to the vehicle's taillight connectors with locking tabs in place. Verify that the black 12 gauge wire is properly connected to the red wire from the T-Connector black box using the yellow butt connector. Verify that the white ground wire is properly secured to a ground point. Verify that the fuse holder is properly connected to the vehicle's positive battery terminal and that the 10 amp fuse is installed. Verify that the negative battery cable is reconnected. Test the installation with a test light or trailer to confirm proper operation.
Ensure that the black 12 gauge wire is positioned correctly between the taillight housing gasket and the foam-padded tape. Verify that the foam-padded tape is properly applied to the taillight socket area and covers any sharp sheet metal edges. Carefully replace the taillight housing, ensuring it is properly seated on its alignment tab. Replace the two 10mm nuts and tighten them securely. The taillight housing should sit flush against the vehicle body with no gaps.
For Toyota FJ Cruiser, the tail lamp plug area is very small and may be difficult to reach with your hands. Long nose pliers may be used to assist in the removal and connection of the plugs. Ensure that you are inserting the connectors straight and fully, with locking tabs properly engaged. Do not force the connectors, as this may damage the locking tabs.
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