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These dependable custom hitches are manufactured for 2012-2018 Ford Focus and attach to your vehicle?s frame or bumper for a sleek, clean appearance. Each hitch also has a 1-1/4 inch square receiver tube opening so you can easily attach accessories like a bike rack or cargo carrier, or a utility trailer. DRAW-TITE Class 1 custom trailer hitches come complete with all the mounting hardware needed for installation and are backed by a nationwide lifetime limited warranty. So, whether you are headed out to the campground and need a place for the cooler, taking the bikes to hit the trails in the park, or you are tackling a DIY project (maybe some landscaping or a home repair), choose DRAW-TITE and travel with confidence knowing your setup is connected with the security only DRAW-TITE can provide. DRAW-TITE: North America?s Favorite Hitch.

Draw-Tite has designed custom-fit trailer hitches since 1946 and is one of North America's most widely fitted hitch brands. Receiver hitches use solid all-welded construction and low-profile designs that follow modern vehicle contours, install with minimal bumper cutting or drilling, meet or exceed V5 CSA and SAE J684 standards, and carry a limited lifetime warranty.
Draw-Tite has been leading custom-fit trailer hitch design and engineering since its founding in 1946, and it remains one of the most widely fitted hitch brands in North America. The company's stated approach is straightforward: every hitch is tested rigorously so that it performs well beyond published industry standards, a philosophy it markets as Tested Tough. It sits within the Horizon Global towing group alongside Reese, Fulton, Bulldog, Tekonsha, Bargman and Wesbar.
Custom fit is the defining characteristic. Rather than adapting a universal design, Draw-Tite engineers a trailer hitch for a specific make, model and model year, so it bolts to existing frame locations with minimal bumper cutting or drilling. Low-profile designs follow the rear contours and aerodynamic styling of modern vehicles, which matters more than it once did now that rear fascias are shaped and sensor-equipped. Construction is solid all-welded steel for maximum strength, and every hitch meets or exceeds V5 CSA and SAE J684 standards and is backed by a nationwide limited lifetime warranty.
The range spans receiver sizes and classes to suit different loads, from 1-1/4 inch receivers for bike racks, cargo carriers and light trailers up through 2 inch receivers for heavier towing. Front mount hitches add a receiver at the front of the vehicle for winch mounts, snow plows, spare carriers and precise trailer positioning.
The Hidden Hitch series takes concealment further by mounting behind the vehicle's rear fascia, so the vehicle keeps its factory appearance until a removable receiver is fitted. Each is custom designed per make and model for a no-drill installation that does not compromise ground clearance, rated for up to 3,500 pounds gross trailer weight and 350 pounds tongue weight. Matching plug-and-play wiring completes the towing system.
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Call 888-634-94941 compatible vehicles
| Year | Make & Model | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| 2011 - 2020 | Ford Focus | Hatchback, Except ST w/Center Exhaust Models & RS |
No. This hitch is designed for Ford Focus models with all body styles and years, but explicitly excludes the ST model. If you have an ST model, you will need a different hitch.
The 24872 hitch fits all Ford Focus body styles except the ST model, including sedan and 5-door models. Wiring access locations differ by body style: sedan uses PC3 and PC4, while 5-door uses PC1 and PC2.
The maximum gross trailer weight is 2000 LB (908 kg) and the maximum tongue weight is 200 LB (90.8 kg). Do not exceed the lower of these ratings or your vehicle manufacturer's towing rating.
You will need drawbar kit 3593 (sold separately). The drawbar must be used in the rise position only.
You will need tin snips, wrenches (13mm and 11/16 sizes), and a torque wrench. A pull wire is used during installation to guide fasteners through the frame. A metal file or pry bar may be needed if the access hole requires enlargement.
The hitch includes: 2 carriage bolts (7/16-14 x 1.50 GR5), 2 blocks (¼ x 7/8 x 3.00), 2 conical washers (7/16), 2 hex nuts (7/16-14), 4 M8-1.25 x 40mm bolts (CL10.9), 4 flat washers (5/16), 4 lock washers (5/16), 2 pull wires (7/16), and 2 plastic isolator strips. Additional fastener kit 24872F is available separately.
You do not need to fully remove the exhaust system, but you must lower it. Remove the 2 M8 bolts holding the exhaust hanger on both sides and return them to the vehicle owner. The exhaust will be re-installed during step 4 using new M8-1.25 x 40mm bolts, lock washers, and flat washers provided with the hitch.
Yes. You must trim the heat shield in the area where the hitch side bracket mounts to the bottom of the frame on both sides (see Figure 3). You must also cut the plastic isolator strips in half and apply them to the bottom of the hitch side brackets between the slot and large access hole on both sides.
You may need to enlarge the access hole. Before inserting the carriage bolt and spacer, check if they fit through the access hole. If not, enlarge the hole just enough to allow the hardware to pass through. You can use a metal file or a wrench/pry bar as shown in Figure 6. Do not use a torch to cut the hole.
1. Lower the exhaust system by removing the 2 M8 bolts on both sides. 2. Trim the heat shield where the side bracket mounts. 3. Cut plastic isolator strips in half and apply to the bottom of the side brackets. 4. Raise the hitch and re-install exhaust hangers with new bolts. 5. Use pull wire to install the carriage bolt, block, and spacer through the frame access hole on both sides. 6. Install conical washer and hex nut on each carriage bolt. 7. Torque all fasteners to specification.
The plastic isolator strips are applied to the bottom of the hitch side brackets between the slot and large access hole. They are positioned between the exhaust hanger and the side bracket to provide isolation and protection.
The pull wire is used to guide the carriage bolt and block through the access hole in the hitch and frame. Kink the pull wire to keep the block independent of the bolt (see Figure 4). This makes it easier to insert the bolt and spacer through the frame without them being engaged together.
All 7/16-14 GR5 fasteners must be tightened with a torque wrench to 50 Lb.-Ft. (68 N·M).
All M8-1.25 CL10.9 fasteners must be tightened with a torque wrench to 27 Lb.-Ft. (37 N·M).
Observe safety precautions when working beneath the vehicle and wear eye protection. Do not cut access or attachment holes with a torch. The hitch or ball must be removed and replaced if damaged. Do not exceed the lower of your vehicle manufacturer's towing rating or the hitch rating of 2000 LB gross trailer weight / 200 LB tongue weight.
Check the hitch frequently to ensure all fasteners and the ball are properly tightened. If the hitch is removed, plug all holes in the trunk pan or other body panels to prevent entry of water and exhaust fumes.
Yes, the 24872 fits all Ford Focus models except the ST. It works with sedan and 5-door body styles.
Maximum 2000 LB gross trailer weight and 200 LB tongue weight. Do not exceed your vehicle manufacturer's rating.
Tin snips, 13mm and 11/16 wrenches, torque wrench, and possibly a metal file or pry bar if the access hole needs enlargement.
Yes. You must trim the heat shield and cut the plastic isolator strips in half. You may also need to enlarge the access hole using a file or pry bar. Do not use a torch.
No, but you must lower it by removing 2 M8 bolts on each side. The exhaust is re-installed during installation using new bolts provided with the hitch.
7/16-14 GR5 bolts: 50 Lb.-Ft. (68 N·M). M8-1.25 CL10.9 bolts: 27 Lb.-Ft. (37 N·M). Use a torque wrench for all fasteners.
2000 LB gross trailer weight, 200 LB tongue weight. Do not exceed the lower of this rating or your vehicle manufacturer's rating.
Check the hitch frequently to ensure all fasteners and the ball are properly tightened. If removed, plug all holes in the trunk pan or body panels to prevent water and exhaust fume entry.
The T-One® T-Connector is a towing electrical connector system that integrates with your vehicle's existing taillight wiring to provide trailer lighting control. It connects to your vehicle's electrical system via the taillights and battery, allowing you to control trailer stop, turn, and tail lights. The system includes a black box module, wire harness with color-coded ends (yellow for driver side, green for passenger side, white for ground, black for power), and a 4-flat connector for the trailer.
Yes, this T-One® T-Connector (part number 118674-037) is designed specifically for the Ford Focus Titanium Hatchback. The installation instructions are written for this vehicle model. If you have a different Focus trim level or model year, you should verify compatibility with the manufacturer or a fitment database before purchasing.
You will need: a trim panel remover, a drill with a 3/32" drill bit, a Phillips head screwdriver, and a test probe. These tools are required to remove interior panels, drill the ground hole, and test the electrical connections after installation.
The kit includes: a black box module, color-coded wire harness (yellow, green, white, and black wires), cable ties for securing the harness, an eyelet and screw for the ground connection, a 15 amp fuse, a yellow fuse holder with ring terminal, yellow butt connectors for wire connections, and a 4-flat connector for the trailer. The manual notes that the 4-flat connector should be stored in the rear cargo area when not in use.
Yes. You must disconnect the vehicle's negative (-) battery cable before connecting the power wire to the positive (+) battery terminal. This is done in step 10. After all other connections are complete and the fuse is installed in the fuse holder, you reconnect the negative battery cable in step 11.
You must open the rear tailgate, remove cargo nets and the cargo floor hatch to access the spare tire area, and temporarily remove the rear threshold plate. Then partially remove the rear interior trim panels on both the driver and passenger sides. You will need to remove several trim panel fasteners to access the panels. Carefully pull back the carpet on both sides to expose the plastic wing nuts (2 per side) that hold the taillights in place.
On both driver and passenger sides: (1) pull the taillight wire harness and unseat the grommet; (2) slit the grommet to allow the T-Connector wiring through; (3) route the appropriate T-Connector end (yellow wire on driver side, green wire on passenger side) through the opening and into the tail lamp pocket, then reseat the grommet around the wires; (4) insert the T-Connector end between the vehicle's wiring connectors and lock into place, ensuring locking tabs are fully seated; (5) reinstall the light assemblies. Be careful not to damage the locking tabs or alignment pins.
Yes, one 3/32" hole must be drilled to create a ground connection. Locate a suitable grounding point near the connector on the vehicle body, clean dirt and rustproofing from the area, then drill the 3/32" hole and secure the white ground wire using the eyelet and screw provided. Before drilling, verify what is behind the surface to avoid damage to the vehicle or personal injury, and do not drill into any exposed surfaces.
From inside the vehicle, connect the black 12 gauge wire from the T-Connector's black box module to the vehicle's black 12 gauge wire using the supplied yellow butt connector. Then route the combined black wire either through a grommet and along the exterior frame, or follow the existing wiring along the thresholds into the engine compartment up to the battery. Avoid areas that may pinch or break the wire. If routing through a grommet and along the exterior, carefully avoid hot pipes, heat shields, the fuel tank, and other points that may pinch or break the wire.
Use a 15 amp fuse. In step 10, disconnect the vehicle's negative battery cable. If the fuse is not already removed from the yellow fuse holder, remove it. Cut the fuse holder wire, attach the ring terminal to the vehicle's positive (+) battery cable, and connect the other end of the fuse holder to the black 12 gauge wire using the supplied yellow butt connector. In step 11, reconnect the negative battery cable and install the 15 amp fuse into the fuse holder.
Yellow wire: connects to the driver's side taillight. Green wire: connects to the passenger's side taillight. White wire: ground connection (drilled and secured to vehicle body). Black wire: power connection (connects to vehicle battery positive terminal through the fuse holder).
Do not exceed the lower of your towing manufacturer's rating or these limits: maximum stop/turn light is 2 per side (4.2 amps total), and maximum tail lights is 7.5 amps. Overloading the circuit can cause fires. Consult your vehicle's owner's manual and the T-Connector instruction sheet for additional information about your specific towing capacity.
All connections must be complete for the T-Connector to function properly. Test and verify the installation with a test light or by connecting an actual trailer once installed. For the initial test, reset the vehicle's electrical system by temporarily removing the key from the ignition. Use a test probe to verify that all electrical connections are working correctly before towing.
Locate a flat surface in an out-of-the-way place inside the vehicle and mount the black box module there to prevent damage or rattling. After mounting, secure the remainder of the harness with the cable ties provided, being careful to avoid any areas that would pinch, cut, or melt the wire.
After mounting the black box module, secure the remainder of the harness with the cable ties provided. Be careful to avoid any areas that would pinch, cut, or melt the wire. When reinstalling interior trim panels, carpet, threshold plate, and other removed items, be careful not to pinch or cut the wires.
Store the 4-flat connector in the rear cargo area of your vehicle when not in use.
This T-Connector (part 118674-037) is designed specifically for the Ford Focus Titanium Hatchback. Verify compatibility with the manufacturer if you have a different trim level or model year.
You need a trim panel remover, drill with 3/32" bit, Phillips screwdriver, and test probe.
Yes, disconnect the negative battery cable before connecting the power wire to the positive terminal. Reconnect it after the fuse is installed.
Use a 15 amp fuse. This protects the circuit from overload.
Do not exceed 2 stop/turn lights per side (4.2 amps) or 7.5 amps for tail lights. Overloading can cause fires.
Verify that all connections are complete. Test the installation with a test light or by connecting a trailer. Reset the vehicle's electrical system by temporarily removing the key from the ignition. Check that the 15 amp fuse is installed in the fuse holder. Verify that the locking tabs on the taillight connectors are fully seated and that the connector ends are fully inserted between the vehicle wiring connectors. Ensure the ground wire is securely attached with the eyelet and screw, and that the power wire is properly connected to the positive battery terminal through the fuse holder.
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