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Authorized Dealer2022 - 2023 Chevrolet Bolt EUV
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| Converter Type | Universal, Potted, Powered, Protected, PWM |
| Electrical Component Location | Vehicle / Trailer |
| Electrical Package Type | Packaged |
| Electrical System Type | 3W |
| Material | THERMOPLASTIC RUBBER |
| Mount Type Description | Not Applicable |
| Output Type | 4-Way Flat |
| Side Application Type Description | Not Applicable |
| T-Connector Location | S3,S5 |
| Tail Light Circuits | 6.0 Amps |
| 29 | Pin |
| Turn and Brake Circuits | 3.0 Amps |
| Warranty | One-Year Limited Warranty |
| Battery-Powered | Yes |
CURT offers a variety of high-quality trailer hitches and accessories for select vehicle models. Find the perfect fit for your towing needs at TowUniverse.
CURT, a Lippert brand, offers a complete line of towing products and is the leading manufacturer of custom-fit trailer hitches. We offer the broadest selection of custom-fit hitches, and each one is designed, welded, and coated in Wisconsin.
CURT is also a leader in flat towing products, as well as 5th wheel, gooseneck, and weight distribution hitches, ball mounts, electrical components, cargo solutions, and other towing accessories.
For everything from passenger cars and vans to full-size pickups and SUVs, CURT is 'The First Name in Towing Products®.'
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Call 888-634-9494One-Year Limited
The 22 - 23 Chevrolet Bolt EUV CURT Trailer Brake Controller 7-Way Upgrade Kit 7WK269 (Part #7WK269) fits 2022-2023 Chevrolet Bolt EUV models. The 2023 model year is the last year covered by this part number. For newer models, check for an updated version.
Yes, the 22 - 23 Chevrolet Bolt EUV CURT Trailer Brake Controller 7-Way Upgrade Kit 7WK269 (Part #7WK269) is designed to fit the 2022-2023 Chevrolet Bolt EUV.
The 22 - 23 Chevrolet Bolt EUV CURT Trailer Brake Controller 7-Way Upgrade Kit 7WK269 (Part #7WK269) fits the following vehicles: 2022-2023 Chevrolet Bolt EUV. Always verify your specific year, make, and model before ordering.
The 22 - 23 Chevrolet Bolt EUV CURT Trailer Brake Controller 7-Way Upgrade Kit 7WK269 (Part #7WK269) Refer to the included instructions for installation details. Basic hand tools are typically all you need.
The kit includes: one 30 amp auto-resetting circuit breaker, two #10 ring terminals, two 3/8" ring terminals, two 1/2" ring terminals, three 12-10 gauge butt connectors, 10 feet of 10 ga black/white duplex wire, 20 feet of 10 ga blue cross-linked wire, and eight 8.5" cable ties.
Yes, but with a critical difference: these vehicles require the stop signal wire to be spliced to the light green wire on the turn signal harness connector under the dash, not to the brake pedal switch. Do NOT connect to the red wire with green stripe, as serious damage may occur. All other vehicles connect to the brake pedal switch instead.
You will need: a test light, wire stripper/cutter, crimp tool, and 3/8" box end wrench. The test light is used to identify the cold (switched) side of the brake pedal switch.
Yes. The manual cautions to disconnect the tow vehicle's negative battery cable before installation. Reconnect it only in the final step after all wiring is complete.
Mount the 30 amp circuit breaker near the tow vehicle's positive battery terminal. This keeps the power wire run as short as possible and protects the circuit.
Use 10 gauge (10 ga) black wire from the duplex wire included in the kit. Strip 3/8" of insulation from each end. Crimp a #10 ring terminal to the end that attaches to the circuit breaker stud labeled 'BAT', and a 3/8" or 1/2" ring terminal (sized to fit your battery terminal) to the end that attaches to the positive battery terminal.
Feed the 10 ga duplex wire from the brake controller in the cockpit through the firewall into the engine compartment toward the battery. Cut to length as needed. At the battery end, crimp a 3/8" or 1/2" ring terminal to the white wire and a #10 ring terminal to the black wire. Attach the black wire to the circuit breaker stud labeled 'AUX' and tighten the nut with a 3/8" box end wrench.
When passing the duplex wire through the firewall into the engine compartment, use an existing grommet, add a new grommet, or fill the hole with silicone rubber to insulate and protect the wire. The same protection applies when passing the blue cross-linked wire through any sheet metal at the rear of the vehicle.
In the cockpit, attach the black duplex wire to the brake controller's battery wire (typically black) and the white duplex wire to the brake controller's ground wire (typically white). Use either one of the supplied yellow butt connectors or solder the leads together and insulate with heat shrink tubing.
Locate the brake pedal switch on the back side of the vehicle's brake pedal. Use a test light or volt meter to identify the 'cold' or switched side—this terminal will only show power when the brake pedal is depressed. Attach the stop signal wire (typically red) from the brake controller to the cold side of the switch using a wire tap.
Locate the semi-circle turn signal harness connector on the steering column under the dash. It has two rows of wires: a row of four and a row of seven. Attach the stop signal wire (typically red) from the brake controller to the light green wire using a wire tap. Do NOT connect to the red wire with green stripe, as serious damage may occur.
Feed the 10 ga blue cross-linked wire from the brake controller to the trailer connector at the rear of the vehicle, taking up any slack in the wire. When passing through any sheet metal, use an existing grommet, add a new grommet, or fill the hole with silicone rubber to protect the wire.
Attach the blue cross-linked wire to the brake controller's electric brake wire (typically blue) using one of the supplied yellow butt connectors or by soldering and insulating with heat shrink tubing. At the rear of the vehicle, trim any loose blue wire and attach it to the trailer connector's electric brake terminal. Refer to the trailer connector's wiring diagram for the correct terminal location.
Secure any loose wires with the cable ties provided. Connect the black power wire from the circuit breaker to the positive side of the battery. Connect the white ground wire from the brake controller to the negative side of the battery. Finally, reconnect the tow vehicle's negative battery cable to the battery.
The circuit breaker is 30 amps and auto-resetting. It must be mounted near the positive battery terminal and connected directly to the positive battery terminal via the included black 10 gauge wire.
Use a 3/8" box end wrench to tighten the nuts on the circuit breaker studs labeled 'BAT' and 'AUX'.
The kit includes 10 feet of 10 gauge black/white duplex wire for the battery and brake controller connections, and 20 feet of 10 gauge blue cross-linked wire for the electric brake signal to the trailer connector.
Black wire connects to the positive battery and circuit breaker. White wire connects to the brake controller ground and negative battery. Red wire is the stop signal wire from the brake controller. Blue wire is the electric brake signal wire. The manual notes these are 'typically' these colours but recommends confirming with your brake controller documentation.
Yes. You can solder the leads together and insulate with heat shrink tubing as an alternative to using the supplied yellow butt connectors. This applies to connections between the duplex wire and the brake controller wires, and between the blue cross-linked wire and the brake controller.
The black power wire must connect directly to the positive battery terminal via the 30 amp circuit breaker. Connecting to the fuse panel or any other accessory wiring may damage vehicle wiring and cause trailer brake failure. The circuit breaker protects the circuit and must be the only protection between the battery and the brake control system.
Do NOT connect the stop signal wire to the red wire with green stripe on the turn signal harness. Serious damage may occur. Connect only to the light green wire. Also, do not connect to the brake pedal switch on these vehicles; use the turn signal harness instead.
The kit is universal but requires an existing trailer connector and brake controller. 1989-1991 Ford E & F-Series with ABS use a different stop signal connection (turn signal harness instead of brake pedal switch). Consult your brake controller documentation for compatibility.
No drilling is required. The kit connects to existing components: the battery, brake controller, brake pedal switch (or turn signal harness on 1989-1991 Ford E & F-Series with ABS), and trailer connector.
Do NOT connect the stop signal wire to the red wire with green stripe on the turn signal harness—serious damage may occur. Connect to the light green wire instead, and do not use the brake pedal switch.
Connecting to the fuse panel or accessory wiring may damage vehicle wiring and cause trailer brake failure. The 30 amp circuit breaker must be the only protection between the battery and the brake control system.
The 4-way flat electrical adapter converts a vehicle's 4-way flat trailer connector to other trailer connector types (6-way round, 7-way RV blade, or dual 4-way flat). This allows you to tow trailers with different connector styles. Single-output models (57184, 57183, 57185, 57626, 57676) convert to one connector type; dual-output models (57604, 57624, 57672, 57674, 57102) provide two different connector outputs simultaneously.
Yes. Your vehicle must be equipped with a 4-way flat trailer connector. If your vehicle does not have one, you will need to install a custom wiring harness or other 4-way flat trailer connector before installing this adapter.
Both convert a 4-way flat connector to a 7-way RV blade. The difference is that 57185 includes a mounting bracket, while 57184 does not.
Both convert a 4-way flat connector to a 6-way round. The difference is that 57626 includes a mounting bracket, while 57183 does not.
Curt offers three dual-output models that provide both a 4-way flat and a 7-way RV blade output: part numbers 57672, 57674, and 57102. All three include a mounting bracket.
Curt offers two dual-output models that provide both a 4-way flat and a 6-way round output: part numbers 57604 and 57624. Both include a mounting bracket.
You will need: a 1/8" drill bit, drill, Phillips screwdriver, wire stripper, cutting tool, terminal crimpers, and a test light. The manual also lists three self-tapping screws (#10 - 1/2") as required, though these are not included with the product.
No. The three self-tapping screws (#10 - 1/2") used to attach the mounting bracket are not included and must be purchased separately.
Mount the combination harness in a location on the tow vehicle that is within reach of the trailer's wiring harness and near the center of the vehicle. The mounting bracket (if included) should be attached to the vehicle's bumper or other suitable surface.
Yes. You must drill two 1/8" holes: one for the grounding point and one (or more) for the mounting bracket. Before drilling, you must check for brake lines, fuel lines, wiring and other components that may be hidden behind or under the surface to avoid damage.
No. You must never attach the mounting bracket directly to the hitch by cutting, welding or drilling into the hitch. Mount it to the vehicle's bumper or other suitable surface instead.
The adapter uses four wires: Yellow (auxiliary or back-up lights), Blue (electric brakes), Black (positive power with appropriate inline fuse), and White (ground). All wires except black and white must be connected using 12 gauge (minimum) wire and butt connectors to the appropriate vehicle functions.
The white wire is the ground connection. It must be attached with a ring terminal to a 1/8" hole drilled in a suitable grounding point on the vehicle using a #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screw. This ground connection is required for the harness to work properly. The white wire on the vehicle's 4-way flat connector does not support the ground (-) functions of the combination harness.
Yes. The black wire (positive power) must be connected with an appropriate inline fuse. The manual does not specify the fuse amperage rating.
Use 12 gauge (minimum) wire for all connections. The manual specifies this minimum gauge for the remaining wires (yellow, blue, and black) when connecting to appropriate vehicle functions.
Failing to properly ground the product can cause loss of warranty, overheating and potential fire. The white wire must be securely attached to a clean grounding point using a #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screw in a 1/8" hole. The area must be clean of dirt, debris or undercoating.
Before drilling, you must check for brake lines, fuel lines, wiring and any other components that may be hidden behind or under the surface. Drilling into these components can cause damage and personal injury.
Do not exceed the product rating or the tow vehicle lamp load rating, whichever is lower. Exceeding either rating can cause damage or unsafe operation.
Confirm proper function with a test light or by using a properly functioning trailer. This verifies that all connections are working correctly before towing.
Secure any loose wires using cable ties or equivalent product to prevent them from moving, catching on components, or becoming damaged.
Your vehicle must have a 4-way flat trailer connector. If it does not, you will need to install a custom wiring harness or other 4-way flat connector first. Check the part number table to confirm the adapter converts to the connector type you need.
You must purchase three #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screws for the mounting bracket. You will also need an appropriate inline fuse for the black (positive power) wire; the manual does not specify the amperage.
Yes, you must drill two 1/8" holes: one for grounding and one for the mounting bracket. Before drilling, check for brake lines, fuel lines and wiring behind the surface. Never drill into the hitch.
Yellow = auxiliary/back-up lights; Blue = electric brakes; Black = positive power (needs inline fuse); White = ground (must be properly grounded or warranty is void and fire risk exists). Use 12 gauge minimum wire and butt connectors.
Proper grounding of the white wire is critical. Failing to ground it properly can cause loss of warranty, overheating and fire. The grounding point must be clean of dirt, debris and undercoating.
Test with a test light or by using a properly functioning trailer to confirm all connections work. Secure loose wires with cable ties.
The Curt 56521 is a custom wiring harness with a powered converter for SUVs and vans. It provides signal circuits (3.0 amps per side) and tail/running circuits (6.0 amps total) to support trailer lighting. The system includes a converter box that must be grounded and powered from the vehicle battery through a 15-amp fuse-protected connection.
The Curt 56521 is designed for SUVs and vans with specific wiring locations (S1–S10). The manual does not list specific vehicle makes, models or years. Verify compatibility by checking the product packaging, the Curt website, or contacting Curt Manufacturing directly with your vehicle's year, make and model. The system requires a 12-volt negative ground electrical system.
No. The converter system is designed only for 12-volt negative ground systems. Do not use this product on vehicles with positive ground electrical systems.
Required tools are: panel trim removal tool, wire cutter, wire stripper, ratchet, 10mm socket, ratchet extension, crimping tool, and fish wire. Proper tools will improve installation quality and reduce time required. You will also need a drill with a 3/32" bit for the ground wire connection, and a test light, 4-flat tester, or functioning trailer to verify operation after installation.
The kit includes the wiring harness with T-connectors, a converter box, a 4-flat dust cover, cable ties, provided sealant for grommet sealing, double-sided tape for converter mounting, a screw for the ground wire ring terminal, a 15-amp fuse holder, and butt connectors. The manual does not specify the exact quantity of cable ties or sealant volume.
Yes. Disconnect the negative battery terminal before beginning installation. Fasten this wire down and away from the battery during the installation process. Reconnect the negative battery terminal only after all other steps are complete and before testing the system.
Open the vehicle hatch and remove: the hatch visor, the floor accessing the spare tire or flat repair kit, the floor liner, and the threshold at the base of the hatch. Use a trim tool to loosen the threshold and remove fasteners by hand. Remove the threshold by pulling straight up. You will also need to loosen the side wall trim on the driver side to access the taillight housing.
Use a 10mm socket to remove the cargo hold-down hook. Loosen the side wall trim on the driver side and locate the taillight housing. Separate the connectors from the taillight housing carefully, taking care not to damage the locking tabs. Install the T-connector with the brown wire to this housing. Insert the custom wiring end with brown and red wires between the separated connectors, ensuring the connectors are fully inserted with locking tabs in place.
Locate the grommet behind the taillight where the vehicle's taillight wiring passes from inside the cabin to the taillight. Remove the grommet and cut a slit large enough to route the new custom wiring end through. Route the custom wiring end with the brown and red wires out through the grommet opening and through the slit in the grommet. Reseat the grommet and use the provided sealant to seal the cut in the grommet and around all wires.
At the rear of the vehicle below the threshold, locate the rubber grommet in the access hole on the driver side. Remove and cut the grommet as described in Step 4. Route the green and yellow wires and the 4-flat out of the vehicle through this opening. Do not seal with silicone at this point. Secure any loose wires with the provided cable ties, leaving them loose enough for adjustment as needed.
From under the vehicle on the driver side, locate the taillight housing. Separate the connectors from the taillight housing carefully, taking care not to damage the locking tabs. Install the T-connector with the yellow wire to this housing. Insert the custom wiring end between the separated connectors, ensuring the connectors are fully inserted with locking tabs in place.
Route the green wire and 4-flat to the passenger side of the vehicle. Secure with cable ties but leave loose enough for adjustment as needed. Route the 4-flat near the receiver hitch in the center and then route the green wire to the passenger side. Locate the taillight housing and repeat Step 6 with the green wire, connecting it to the passenger side taillight housing.
Mount the converter box using the provided double-sided tape. Ground the white wire to the vehicle body using the provided screw (drill a 3/32" hole if necessary). Route the black power wire from the converter to the vehicle battery as shown on the Powered Converter Lead Instruction Sheet. Use a ring terminal for the battery connection. Secure the power wire to the vehicle chassis using provided cable ties, avoiding pinch points and hot or rotating components. Install the 15-amp fuse holder after all other steps are complete.
Secure any loose wires with the provided cable ties, reinstall the grommet, and seal it with provided sealant. Reinstall all items removed during installation (hatch visor, floor, floor liner, threshold, side wall trim). If the negative battery terminal was disconnected at the beginning, reconnect it. Install the provided 4-flat dust cover to help prevent corrosion. Before reconnecting the battery, verify that the harness is functioning by attaching the battery and testing with a test light, 4-flat tester, or a functioning trailer.
Yes. You must cut slits in the grommets behind the taillight housings to route the wiring through (Steps 4 and 5). You may also need to drill a 3/32" hole to attach the white ground wire ring terminal to the vehicle body, unless an existing hole is available. Before drilling, check for miscellaneous items that may be behind or under any surface to avoid personal injury or property damage.
Signal circuits: 3.0 amps per side. Tail/running circuits: 6.0 amps total. The battery connection must be fuse-protected with a 15-amp maximum fuse. Do not exceed the product rating or the tow vehicle lamp load rating, whichever is lower. Exceeding the product rating can cause loss of warranty, overheating, and potential fire.
A 10mm socket is required to remove the cargo hold-down hook during Step 3 of the installation.
Drill a 3/32" hole if necessary to attach the white ground wire ring terminal to the vehicle body. Use the screw provided with the kit.
Brown = Taillight (running lights). Red = Brake. Yellow = Left turn. Green = Right turn. The converter also includes a white ground wire and a black power wire that connects to the positive battery terminal.
The power wire routed to the vehicle battery must be 12 GA (12 gauge) or larger. Route this wire carefully to avoid pinch points and hot or rotating components. When passing the power wire through sheet metal, use an existing grommet, add a grommet, or use silicone to protect the wire from sharp edges.
Use a ring terminal for the battery connection. The ring terminal of the black power wire should be attached to the positive (+) battery terminal. The ring terminal of the white ground wire should be attached to the vehicle body using the provided screw.
The battery connection must be fuse-protected with a 15-amp maximum fuse. Install the fuse after all other installation steps are complete. Exceeding this rating can cause loss of warranty, overheating, and potential fire.
Disconnect the negative battery terminal before beginning installation. Do not lay tools across the positive battery terminal (typically noted with red covers or a red '+' symbol), as this can cause a ground short resulting in sparks and/or electrical shocks. Fasten the negative battery wire down and away from the battery during installation. Reconnect the negative battery terminal only after all other steps are complete.
Before drilling, check for miscellaneous items that may be behind or under any surface. This precaution helps avoid personal injury or property damage.
After connecting the 12-volt power wire to the harness, verify that the harness is functioning by attaching the battery and testing with a test light, 4-flat tester, or a functioning trailer. This test should be performed before final reassembly and before reconnecting the negative battery terminal.
Periodic inspection of all wires and connections should be performed to ensure there is no visible damage or loose connections. Install the provided 4-flat dust cover to help prevent corrosion of the connector.
The Curt 56521 is designed for SUVs and vans. Verify compatibility by checking your vehicle's year, make and model against the product packaging or Curt's website. The system requires a 12-volt negative ground electrical system.
Yes. You must cut slits in grommets to route wiring, and you may need to drill a 3/32" hole for the ground wire connection. Before drilling, check for items behind or under surfaces to avoid injury or damage.
Use 12 GA (12 gauge) wire or larger for the power connection to the vehicle battery. The connection must be fuse-protected with a 15-amp maximum fuse and use a ring terminal.
Check for miscellaneous items that may be behind or under any surface before drilling to avoid personal injury or property damage.
First, verify that the harness is functioning by testing with a test light, 4-flat tester, or a functioning trailer. Check that: (1) the negative battery terminal is properly reconnected, (2) the 15-amp fuse is installed and not blown, (3) the black power wire is securely attached to the positive battery terminal with a ring terminal, (4) the white ground wire is securely attached to the vehicle body, (5) all T-connector locking tabs are fully seated, (6) no wires are pinched or damaged, and (7) the converter box is properly mounted and grounded.
1 compatible vehicles
| Year | Make & Model | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| 2022 - 2023 | Chevrolet Bolt EUV | — |
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