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| Electrical System Type | 2W |
| Finish | Blank |
| Material | THERMOPLASTIC RUBBER |
| Mount Type Description | Not Applicable |
| Output Type | 4-Way Flat |
| Side Application Type Description | Not Applicable |
| T-Connector Location | T1,T2 |
| Tail Light Circuits | 7.5 Amps |
| Turn and Brake Circuits | 5.0 Amps |
| Warranty | One-Year Limited Warranty |
| Battery-Powered | Yes |
| Converter Type | Circuit Protected, Powered, Potted |
CURT offers a variety of high-quality trailer hitches and accessories for select vehicle models. Find the perfect fit for your towing needs at TowUniverse.
CURT, a Lippert brand, offers a complete line of towing products and is the leading manufacturer of custom-fit trailer hitches. We offer the broadest selection of custom-fit hitches, and each one is designed, welded, and coated in Wisconsin.
CURT is also a leader in flat towing products, as well as 5th wheel, gooseneck, and weight distribution hitches, ball mounts, electrical components, cargo solutions, and other towing accessories.
For everything from passenger cars and vans to full-size pickups and SUVs, CURT is 'The First Name in Towing Products®.'
Experts available to answer your questions
Call 888-634-94941 compatible vehicles
| Year | Make & Model | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| 2022 - 2024 | Ford Maverick | Excluding factory receiver |
The 22 - 24 Ford Maverick Excluding factory receiver CURT Trailer Brake Controller 7-Way Upgrade Kit 7WK959 (Part #7WK959) fits 2022-2024 Ford Maverick models. The 2024 model year is the last year covered by this part number. For newer models, check for an updated version.
Yes, the 22 - 24 Ford Maverick Excluding factory receiver CURT Trailer Brake Controller 7-Way Upgrade Kit 7WK959 (Part #7WK959) is designed to fit the 2022-2024 Ford Maverick.
The 22 - 24 Ford Maverick Excluding factory receiver CURT Trailer Brake Controller 7-Way Upgrade Kit 7WK959 (Part #7WK959) fits the following vehicles: 2022-2024 Ford Maverick. Always verify your specific year, make, and model before ordering.
The 22 - 24 Ford Maverick Excluding factory receiver CURT Trailer Brake Controller 7-Way Upgrade Kit 7WK959 (Part #7WK959) Refer to the included instructions for installation details. Basic hand tools are typically all you need.
The kit includes: one 30 amp auto-resetting circuit breaker, two #10 ring terminals, two 3/8" ring terminals, two 1/2" ring terminals, three 12-10 gauge butt connectors, 10 feet of 10 ga black/white duplex wire, 20 feet of 10 ga blue cross-linked wire, and eight 8.5" cable ties.
Yes, but with a critical difference: these vehicles require the stop signal wire to be spliced to the light green wire on the turn signal harness connector under the dash, not to the brake pedal switch. Do NOT connect to the red wire with green stripe, as serious damage may occur. All other vehicles connect to the brake pedal switch instead.
You will need: a test light, wire stripper/cutter, crimp tool, and 3/8" box end wrench. The test light is used to identify the cold (switched) side of the brake pedal switch.
Yes. The manual cautions to disconnect the tow vehicle's negative battery cable before installation. Reconnect it only in the final step after all wiring is complete.
Mount the 30 amp circuit breaker near the tow vehicle's positive battery terminal. This keeps the power wire run as short as possible and protects the circuit.
Use 10 gauge (10 ga) black wire from the duplex wire included in the kit. Strip 3/8" of insulation from each end. Crimp a #10 ring terminal to the end that attaches to the circuit breaker stud labeled 'BAT', and a 3/8" or 1/2" ring terminal (sized to fit your battery terminal) to the end that attaches to the positive battery terminal.
Feed the 10 ga duplex wire from the brake controller in the cockpit through the firewall into the engine compartment toward the battery. Cut to length as needed. At the battery end, crimp a 3/8" or 1/2" ring terminal to the white wire and a #10 ring terminal to the black wire. Attach the black wire to the circuit breaker stud labeled 'AUX' and tighten the nut with a 3/8" box end wrench.
When passing the duplex wire through the firewall into the engine compartment, use an existing grommet, add a new grommet, or fill the hole with silicone rubber to insulate and protect the wire. The same protection applies when passing the blue cross-linked wire through any sheet metal at the rear of the vehicle.
In the cockpit, attach the black duplex wire to the brake controller's battery wire (typically black) and the white duplex wire to the brake controller's ground wire (typically white). Use either one of the supplied yellow butt connectors or solder the leads together and insulate with heat shrink tubing.
Locate the brake pedal switch on the back side of the vehicle's brake pedal. Use a test light or volt meter to identify the 'cold' or switched side—this terminal will only show power when the brake pedal is depressed. Attach the stop signal wire (typically red) from the brake controller to the cold side of the switch using a wire tap.
Locate the semi-circle turn signal harness connector on the steering column under the dash. It has two rows of wires: a row of four and a row of seven. Attach the stop signal wire (typically red) from the brake controller to the light green wire using a wire tap. Do NOT connect to the red wire with green stripe, as serious damage may occur.
Feed the 10 ga blue cross-linked wire from the brake controller to the trailer connector at the rear of the vehicle, taking up any slack in the wire. When passing through any sheet metal, use an existing grommet, add a new grommet, or fill the hole with silicone rubber to protect the wire.
Attach the blue cross-linked wire to the brake controller's electric brake wire (typically blue) using one of the supplied yellow butt connectors or by soldering and insulating with heat shrink tubing. At the rear of the vehicle, trim any loose blue wire and attach it to the trailer connector's electric brake terminal. Refer to the trailer connector's wiring diagram for the correct terminal location.
Secure any loose wires with the cable ties provided. Connect the black power wire from the circuit breaker to the positive side of the battery. Connect the white ground wire from the brake controller to the negative side of the battery. Finally, reconnect the tow vehicle's negative battery cable to the battery.
The circuit breaker is 30 amps and auto-resetting. It must be mounted near the positive battery terminal and connected directly to the positive battery terminal via the included black 10 gauge wire.
Use a 3/8" box end wrench to tighten the nuts on the circuit breaker studs labeled 'BAT' and 'AUX'.
The kit includes 10 feet of 10 gauge black/white duplex wire for the battery and brake controller connections, and 20 feet of 10 gauge blue cross-linked wire for the electric brake signal to the trailer connector.
Black wire connects to the positive battery and circuit breaker. White wire connects to the brake controller ground and negative battery. Red wire is the stop signal wire from the brake controller. Blue wire is the electric brake signal wire. The manual notes these are 'typically' these colours but recommends confirming with your brake controller documentation.
Yes. You can solder the leads together and insulate with heat shrink tubing as an alternative to using the supplied yellow butt connectors. This applies to connections between the duplex wire and the brake controller wires, and between the blue cross-linked wire and the brake controller.
The black power wire must connect directly to the positive battery terminal via the 30 amp circuit breaker. Connecting to the fuse panel or any other accessory wiring may damage vehicle wiring and cause trailer brake failure. The circuit breaker protects the circuit and must be the only protection between the battery and the brake control system.
Do NOT connect the stop signal wire to the red wire with green stripe on the turn signal harness. Serious damage may occur. Connect only to the light green wire. Also, do not connect to the brake pedal switch on these vehicles; use the turn signal harness instead.
The kit is universal but requires an existing trailer connector and brake controller. 1989-1991 Ford E & F-Series with ABS use a different stop signal connection (turn signal harness instead of brake pedal switch). Consult your brake controller documentation for compatibility.
No drilling is required. The kit connects to existing components: the battery, brake controller, brake pedal switch (or turn signal harness on 1989-1991 Ford E & F-Series with ABS), and trailer connector.
Do NOT connect the stop signal wire to the red wire with green stripe on the turn signal harness—serious damage may occur. Connect to the light green wire instead, and do not use the brake pedal switch.
Connecting to the fuse panel or accessory wiring may damage vehicle wiring and cause trailer brake failure. The 30 amp circuit breaker must be the only protection between the battery and the brake control system.
The Curt 56477 is a powered converter lead designed to convert your truck's taillight signals into trailer lighting signals. It connects to your vehicle's taillights and battery, allowing you to control trailer lights (turn signals, brake lights, and running lights) from your truck's lighting system. The converter outputs a standard 4-flat connector for trailer connection.
The converter system is designed for 12-volt negative ground electrical systems only. Check your vehicle owner's manual or contact the vehicle manufacturer to confirm your truck uses this system before purchasing.
You will need: a ratchet, 8mm socket, socket extension, wire crimper, wire stripper, electrical tape, and a cutting tool. You may also need a fish wire (or substitute such as a cut-up wire hanger, stiff wire, rope or string) to route wiring through the taillight cavity, and an abrasive pad or paper to clean rust and paint from the grounding point.
The kit includes: a custom wiring harness with yellow, green, black, white, red, and brown wires; a black converter box; a 4-flat connector with dust cover; cable ties; double-sided tape for mounting the converter; a ground screw; and a 10-amp fuse holder. A 10-amp fuse must be installed after all other installation steps are complete.
Yes. You must disconnect the negative battery terminal before beginning installation and keep it disconnected while wiring the power wire. Fasten the disconnected wire down and away from the battery during the installation process. Reconnect it only after all other steps are complete and the fuse has been installed.
Yes. You must remove both the driver and passenger side taillights to access the taillight connectors. Using an 8mm socket, remove the two screws holding each taillight in place, then carefully pull the taillight out at a 45-degree angle from the side and rear of the truck. Separate the connectors from the taillight housing, taking care not to damage the locking tabs.
Use a fish wire (or substitute such as a cut-up wire hanger, stiff wire, rope or string). Starting on the driver side, drop the fish wire down inside the box where the taillight was removed. From under the vehicle, attach the custom wiring end with the yellow wire to the fish wire and pull it up into the taillight cavity. If the fish wire gets hung up, you may need to push back down, wiggle it around, or twist the wire to loosen it. Make sure the fish wire is long enough to stick out on the other side.
After pulling the custom wiring end with the yellow wire up into the taillight cavity, insert it between the separated taillight connectors. Make sure the connectors are fully inserted with locking tabs in place. Repeat this process on the opposite side with the green wire routed to the passenger side.
Adhere the black converter box using the provided double-sided tape. The manual does not specify an exact location, but it should be mounted in a protected area away from moisture and heat. Ensure it is accessible for maintenance and fuse replacement.
Route the 4-flat connector along the rear bumper and secure it with zip ties as needed. Mount the 4-flat close to the receiver tube to minimize the distance between the converter and the trailer connection point.
Not necessarily. On the driver side, locate an existing grounding point such as a screw or bolt in the vehicle frame. If no suitable existing fastener is available, you may drill a 3/32" pilot hole. The area must be free from rust, dirt, and paint—use an abrasive pad or paper to clean it before securing the white ground wire with the ring terminal. Always check for miscellaneous items hidden behind or under any surface before drilling to avoid damage and personal injury.
When passing the power wire through sheet metal, use an existing grommet, add a new grommet, or use silicone to protect the power wire from sharp edges. This prevents the wire insulation from being cut or damaged. Route the 12-gauge wire to the vehicle battery location, taking care to avoid any pinch points and hot or rotating components.
Signal circuits (turn signals) are rated at 5.0 amps per side. Tail and running light circuits are rated at 7.5 amps total. Do not exceed the product rating or your tow vehicle's lamp load rating, whichever is lower. Exceeding the product rating can cause loss of warranty, overheating, and potential fire.
You need an 8mm socket with a ratchet and socket extension to remove the two screws holding each taillight in place.
If you need to drill a ground point, the pilot hole size is 3/32". This hole is used to secure the white ground wire with the ring terminal using the provided ground screw.
Use 12-gauge wire or larger for the power lead from the converter to the vehicle battery. The manual specifies 12 GA wire or larger on the wiring diagram.
The battery connection must be fuse-protected with a 10-amp maximum fuse. Install the fuse holder with a 10-amp fuse after all other installation steps are complete. Do not exceed 10 amps, as exceeding the product rating can cause loss of warranty, overheating, and potential fire.
The wiring harness uses the following color codes: Green = Right turn signal, Red = Brake light, Yellow = Left turn signal, Brown = Taillight (running light). The white wire is the ground wire, and the black wire connects to the positive battery terminal.
Route the black power wire to the positive battery terminal (+), typically noted with red covers or a red '+' symbol. Use a ring terminal for the battery connection. Do not lay tools across the positive battery terminal, as this can cause a ground short, resulting in sparks and/or electrical shocks.
For trucks, the wiring locations are: T1 = Behind driver side taillight housing, T2 = Behind passenger side taillight housing, T3 = Behind driver side rear bumper, T4 = Behind center of rear bumper fascia, T5 = Behind passenger side rear bumper. The custom wiring harness connects at T1 and T2 (the taillight housings).
Disconnect the negative battery terminal before beginning installation and keep it disconnected while wiring the power wire. Fasten the disconnected wire down and away from the battery. Do not lay tools across the positive battery terminal (typically noted with red covers or a red '+' symbol), as this can cause a ground short, resulting in sparks and/or electrical shocks. Reconnect the negative terminal only after all other steps are complete and the fuse has been installed.
Before drilling any holes, check for miscellaneous items that may be hidden behind or under any surface to avoid damage and personal injury. This is especially important when drilling the ground point on the vehicle frame or when passing the power wire through sheet metal.
Once the custom wiring harness is installed, verify that it is functioning by attaching the 4-flat connector to any vehicle with functioning trailer lights. The taillights on the tow vehicle should function along with the taillights on the towing vehicle. This confirms that all signal circuits (turn signals, brake lights, and running lights) are working correctly.
Reinstall all items removed during installation, including the taillights. If the negative battery terminal was disconnected at the beginning, reconnect it. Install the provided 4-flat dust cover to help prevent corrosion. Test the system by connecting the 4-flat to a vehicle with functioning trailer lights to verify all signals work correctly.
Perform periodic inspection of all wires and connections to ensure there is no visible damage or loose connections. Check the 4-flat dust cover to ensure it remains in place to help prevent corrosion. No other routine maintenance is specified in the manual.
The Curt 56477 is designed for trucks with 12-volt negative ground electrical systems. Check your vehicle owner's manual or contact the manufacturer to confirm compatibility before purchasing.
Yes. Disconnect the negative battery terminal before installation and keep it disconnected while wiring the power wire. Reconnect it only after all other steps are complete and the fuse is installed.
Drilling is not always required. You can use an existing screw or bolt on the vehicle frame as a grounding point. If no suitable fastener exists, drill a 3/32" pilot hole. Always check for hidden items before drilling.
The battery connection must use a 10-amp maximum fuse. Install the fuse after all other steps are complete. Do not exceed 10 amps.
Use 12-gauge wire or larger for the power lead from the converter to the vehicle battery.
If the fish wire gets hung up on something inside the cavity, you may need to push it back down, wiggle it around, or twist the wire to loosen it from what it is caught on. Ensure the fish wire is long enough to stick out on the other side before pulling. If it continues to get stuck, try using a different type of fish wire (such as a stiffer wire hanger or rope) or carefully inspect the cavity for obstructions.
Make sure the custom wiring end is fully inserted between the separated connectors and that the locking tabs are in place. The locking tabs secure the connector and ensure proper electrical contact. If the connectors still do not seat fully, check that you are not pinching any wires and that the connector is aligned correctly before pushing it in completely.
First, verify that the harness is functioning by connecting the 4-flat to any vehicle with functioning trailer lights. The tow vehicle's taillights should function along with the towing vehicle's lights. If they do not, check: 1) that the negative battery terminal is reconnected, 2) that the 10-amp fuse is installed in the fuse holder, 3) that the black power wire is connected to the positive battery terminal with a ring terminal, 4) that the white ground wire is securely fastened to the vehicle frame, 5) that all taillight connectors are fully seated with locking tabs in place, and 6) that there are no visible damaged or loose wires.
The 4-way flat electrical adapter converts a vehicle's 4-way flat trailer connector to other trailer connector types (6-way round, 7-way RV blade, or dual 4-way flat). This allows you to tow trailers with different connector styles. Single-output models (57184, 57183, 57185, 57626, 57676) convert to one connector type; dual-output models (57604, 57624, 57672, 57674, 57102) provide two different connector outputs simultaneously.
Yes. Your vehicle must be equipped with a 4-way flat trailer connector. If your vehicle does not have one, you will need to install a custom wiring harness or other 4-way flat trailer connector before installing this adapter.
Both convert a 4-way flat connector to a 7-way RV blade. The difference is that 57185 includes a mounting bracket, while 57184 does not.
Both convert a 4-way flat connector to a 6-way round. The difference is that 57626 includes a mounting bracket, while 57183 does not.
Curt offers three dual-output models that provide both a 4-way flat and a 7-way RV blade output: part numbers 57672, 57674, and 57102. All three include a mounting bracket.
Curt offers two dual-output models that provide both a 4-way flat and a 6-way round output: part numbers 57604 and 57624. Both include a mounting bracket.
You will need: a 1/8" drill bit, drill, Phillips screwdriver, wire stripper, cutting tool, terminal crimpers, and a test light. The manual also lists three self-tapping screws (#10 - 1/2") as required, though these are not included with the product.
No. The three self-tapping screws (#10 - 1/2") used to attach the mounting bracket are not included and must be purchased separately.
Mount the combination harness in a location on the tow vehicle that is within reach of the trailer's wiring harness and near the center of the vehicle. The mounting bracket (if included) should be attached to the vehicle's bumper or other suitable surface.
Yes. You must drill two 1/8" holes: one for the grounding point and one (or more) for the mounting bracket. Before drilling, you must check for brake lines, fuel lines, wiring and other components that may be hidden behind or under the surface to avoid damage.
No. You must never attach the mounting bracket directly to the hitch by cutting, welding or drilling into the hitch. Mount it to the vehicle's bumper or other suitable surface instead.
The adapter uses four wires: Yellow (auxiliary or back-up lights), Blue (electric brakes), Black (positive power with appropriate inline fuse), and White (ground). All wires except black and white must be connected using 12 gauge (minimum) wire and butt connectors to the appropriate vehicle functions.
The white wire is the ground connection. It must be attached with a ring terminal to a 1/8" hole drilled in a suitable grounding point on the vehicle using a #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screw. This ground connection is required for the harness to work properly. The white wire on the vehicle's 4-way flat connector does not support the ground (-) functions of the combination harness.
Yes. The black wire (positive power) must be connected with an appropriate inline fuse. The manual does not specify the fuse amperage rating.
Use 12 gauge (minimum) wire for all connections. The manual specifies this minimum gauge for the remaining wires (yellow, blue, and black) when connecting to appropriate vehicle functions.
Failing to properly ground the product can cause loss of warranty, overheating and potential fire. The white wire must be securely attached to a clean grounding point using a #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screw in a 1/8" hole. The area must be clean of dirt, debris or undercoating.
Do not exceed the product rating or the tow vehicle lamp load rating, whichever is lower. Exceeding either rating can cause damage or unsafe operation.
Confirm proper function with a test light or by using a properly functioning trailer. This verifies that all connections are working correctly before towing.
Secure any loose wires using cable ties or equivalent product to prevent them from moving, catching on components, or becoming damaged.
Your vehicle must have a 4-way flat trailer connector. If it does not, you will need to install a custom wiring harness or other 4-way flat connector first. Check the part number table to confirm the adapter converts to the connector type you need.
You must purchase three #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screws for the mounting bracket. You will also need an appropriate inline fuse for the black (positive power) wire; the manual does not specify the amperage.
Yes, you must drill two 1/8" holes: one for grounding and one for the mounting bracket. Before drilling, check for brake lines, fuel lines and wiring behind the surface. Never drill into the hitch.
Yellow = auxiliary/back-up lights; Blue = electric brakes; Black = positive power (needs inline fuse); White = ground (must be properly grounded or warranty is void and fire risk exists). Use 12 gauge minimum wire and butt connectors.
Proper grounding of the white wire is critical. Failing to ground it properly can cause loss of warranty, overheating and fire. The grounding point must be clean of dirt, debris and undercoating.
Test with a test light or by using a properly functioning trailer to confirm all connections work. Secure loose wires with cable ties.
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