Air Lift LoadLifter 5000 ULTIMATE with internal jounce bumper 88275Air LiftOriginal price was $857.99. Current price is $621.99.In Stock
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LoadLifter 5000 ULTIMATE
Leaf spring air spring kit with internal jounce bumper
Offering up to 5,000 pounds of load-leveling capacity, the LoadLifter 5000 Ultimate kit from Air Lift will make towing and hauling a comfortable and stress-free experience. For the ultimate ride comfort and protection, our fully-adjustable, industry leading air springs are the perfect partner for your vehicle, eliminating any issues that you might face. The LoadLifter 5000 Ultimate kit helps to eliminate problems frequently faced when towing and hauling, such as squat, poor headlight aim, trailer sway, body roll, and bottoming out. With the added stability and weight-distribution that air springs provide, you can haul safely, knowing that you have optimal braking and steering control. With the ability to adjust the air pressure from 5-100 PSI, your vehicle can be ready for any weight and any situation (Note: Do not exceed vehicle's gross vehicle weight rating (GVWR)). What sets the LoadLifter 5000 Ultimate apart from other air spring kits is the built-in internal jounce bumper. An Air Lift exclusive, the jounce bumper inside the air spring prevents bottoming out, eliminating squat and trailer sway, even on rough roads. This replaces the factory jounce bumper and it completely maintenance free and allows the air springs to operate safely with zero air pressure. This added feature makes the kit the ULTIMATE in ride comfort and protection. As the leader in air suspension products for more than 70 years, Air Lift is committed to delivering quality load support parts that last. To ensure the highest quality, longevity, and customer satisfaction, the key suspension components, including the air springs and all hardware, have all been torture-tested to 1 million cycles on our hydraulic test rig. With a lifetime warranty and 60-Day Ride Satisfaction Guarantee -- not to mention the Air Lift reputation for great customer service and technical support.
Air Lift Company has developed dependable air spring suspension products since our inception in 1949. Our original product, a rubber air spring inserted into a car’s factory coil spring, was created and patented in 1950. We’ve come a long way since 1949 and are proud to be a dedicated suspension specialist company.
Today, Air Lift load support products are sold worldwide and are engineered to fit over 540 vehicles. Our extensive product line offers air helper springs for trucks, RVs, SUVs, CUVs, and vans, as well as the most technologically advanced on-board air compressor systems for on-the-go air spring control.
Air Lift leads the industry in no-drill applications – kits that bolt onto your vehicle’s frame, speeding the installation process. Our teams work constantly to bring innovative products to you and upgrade existing products with the latest technology.
All of our efforts are spent ensuring your safety and comfort by designing, engineering, and manufacturing the highest quality suspension products. We are a family-owned business based in Lansing, Michigan, and make your family and cargo’s safety our top priority.
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2 compatible vehicles
| Year | Make & Model | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| 1999 - 2004 | Ford F-250 Super Duty | Does not fit cab and chassis applications |
| 1999 - 2004 | Ford F-350 Super Duty | Does not fit cab and chassis applications |
The Air Lift LoadLifter 5000 ULTIMATE with internal jounce bumper 88393 (Part #BBCG88393) fits 1999-2004 Ford F-250 Super Duty models. The 2004 model year is the last year covered by this part number. For newer models, check for an updated version.
The Air Lift LoadLifter 5000 ULTIMATE with internal jounce bumper 88393 (Part #BBCG88393) fits the following vehicles: 1999-2004 Ford F-250 Super Duty; 1999-2004 Ford F-350 Super Duty. Always verify your specific year, make, and model before ordering.
Yes, the Air Lift LoadLifter 5000 ULTIMATE with internal jounce bumper 88393 (Part #BBCG88393) is designed to fit the 1999-2004 Ford F-250 Super Duty.
The Air Lift LoadLifter 5000 ULTIMATE with internal jounce bumper 88393 (Part #BBCG88393) Refer to the included instructions for installation details. Basic hand tools are typically all you need.
The LoadLifter 5000 Ultimate is an adjustable air helper spring kit designed to provide load leveling support for ¾ and 1 ton pickups and SUVs with leaf springs, as well as motorhome rear kits and some motorhome fronts. It uses reinforced, commercial-grade convolute bellows (single or double depending on the kit) with an internal jounce bumper that absorbs shock. The system provides up to 5,000 lbs of load leveling support with air adjustability from 5–100 PSI, allowing you to maintain normal ride height when carrying heavy loads.
Yes, the LoadLifter 5000 Ultimate is designed for ¾ and 1 ton pickups including F-250 and F-350 models with leaf springs. The F-250 typically has a 3.50" diameter axle tube and requires no adapter. The F-350 typically has a 4.00" diameter axle tube and requires an adapter (part I) that mounts to the lower bracket to nest into position between the stock u-bolts. Confirm your vehicle has leaf springs, as the kit is not designed for other suspension types.
The kit can work with aftermarket fifth-wheel hitches, but installation varies depending on the hitch design. If your hitch has a bracket (plate) running along the full length of the frame with existing hardware, you reinstall that hardware to secure the upper brace. If the hitch has an "L" bracket forward and behind the axle leaving the middle frame open, you use 1/2"-13 x 2.00" hex cap screws with flat washers. If the hitch bracket has no attaching hardware on the side where the frame slot is, you must drill a 1/2" hole through the plate using the slot as a template. Some hitch models have a spacer between the bracket and frame rail—be sure to reinstall it when attaching the upper bracket.
No. The installation of this kit does not alter the Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR) or payload of the vehicle. You must check your vehicle's owner's manual and never exceed the maximum load listed for your vehicle. GVWR is the maximum allowable weight of the fully loaded vehicle (including passengers and cargo) and is shown on the vehicle's Safety Compliance Certification Label. Payload is the combined maximum allowable weight of cargo and passengers, calculated as GVWR minus the Base Curb Weight.
Required tools include: 7/16" and 9/16" open-end or box wrenches; adjustable wrench; ratchet with 3/8", 9/16", and 1/2" deep well sockets; 5/16" drill bits (very sharp); DIE grinder; hacksaw; heavy duty drill; torque wrench; standard, metric and SAE sockets and wrenches; hose cutter, razor blade, or sharp knife; hoist or floor jacks; 2 safety stands; safety glasses; air compressor or compressed air source; and a spray bottle with dish soap/water solution (for leak testing).
The kit includes: 2 lower brackets (A), 2 upper braces (B), 2 upper brackets (C), 2 axle clamp bars (D), 4 roll plates (E), 2 air springs (F), 2 emergency brake cable clamps (G), 1 L-bracket (H), 2 adapter brackets (I), various hex head cap screws and carriage bolts in sizes 5/16", 3/8", and 1/2", flat washers, nylon lock nuts, split lock washers, 2 90° swivel elbow fittings (CC), 1 air line assembly (FF), 6 zip ties (GG), 2 valve caps (II), 2 5/16" hex nuts (JJ), 2 rubber washers (KK), 2 star washers (LL), and 1 heat shield kit (MM). Note: 3/4" hardware for fifth-wheel hitch attachment may be supplied by the hitch manufacturer; if not, use the 1/2" hardware supplied with this kit.
1. Raise the vehicle and support the axle with safety stands, setting the stands as wide as possible on the axle. 2. Remove the jounce bumpers from under the frame over the axle. 3. If necessary, disconnect the wiring harness from the driver side frame rail to gain clearance for the upper bracket. 4. If you have a fifth-wheel hitch already installed, remove the 3/4" hardware that bolts the side bracket to the outside of the frame above the axle (note any spacers for reinstallation). 5. Remove the bolt on the inside of the frame that interferes with the emergency brake cable, and re-insert it through the emergency brake cable bracket from the outside, installing a 7/16" spacer and M10-1.5 nylon lock nut. 6. If emission lines run along the inside of the frame rail, carefully push the line holder out and remove any additional holders forward or rearward of the axle to aid in positioning.
1. Set a roll plate (E) over the top and bottom of the air spring (F), with the radiused (rounded) edge toward the air spring so it seats inside both roll plates. 2. Install the 90° swivel elbow fitting (CC) into the top of the air spring finger-tight, then tighten one and a half turns. 3. Attach the air spring to the lower bracket (A) using the designated holes, 3/8" flat washers (W), lock washers (EE), and 3/8"-24 x 7/8" hex head cap screws (DD); tighten both screws securely. The fitting on top of the air spring must point inward. 4. Insert two 3/8"-16 x 1.25" carriage bolts (P) and one 3/8"-16 x 2.5" carriage bolt (L) up through the bottom of the upper bracket (C) through the square holes. 5. Set the upper bracket onto the air spring assembly using the designated holes and attach with 3/8" flat washers (W), lock washers (EE), and 3/8"-24 x 7/8" hex head cap screws (DD); tighten both screws securely. 6. Repeat for the opposite side.
Set the upper brace (B) into the driver and passenger side frame. The attachment method depends on your fifth-wheel hitch configuration: (1) If you have a fifth-wheel hitch without a plate running the full length of the frame (with "L" brackets forward and behind the axle), use 1/2"-13 x 2.00" hex cap screws (NN) with flat washers (Q) through the slot in the frame, through another flat washer, and through the upper brace, capped with a flat washer and 1/2"-13 nylon lock nut (X). Leave loose at this time. (2) If you have an aftermarket hitch with a bracket running alongside the frame that used existing hardware, reinstall that hardware with a large 3/4" flat washer (Y) between the brace and frame. Do not tighten. (3) If the hitch bracket has no attaching hardware on the side with the frame slot, drill a 1/2" hole through the plate using the slot as a template, then install a 1/2"-13 x 3" hex head cap screw (O) with 1/2" thick flat washers (Q) and a 1/2"-13 nylon lock nut (X). Leave loose at this time.
The emergency brake cable on the right side of the vehicle must be modified so the lower bracket sits on the axle properly. For F-250 models or cables secured similarly: bend the wire bracket forward and down at the same time to move the cable forward and down, clearing the bottom of the lower bracket. For F-350 models or cables secured similarly: remove the wire cable holder off the side of the sway bar bracket attached to the axle and remove the top bolt (if equipped) that holds the sway bar strap on (discard the holder and both bolts). Attach the emergency brake cable clamp (G) to the brake cable and attach the frame clamp to the top sway bar hole using the M10 flange bolt (N) supplied. Tighten securely.
1. If you have an F-350 or similar vehicle with a 4.00" diameter axle tube, attach the adapter (I) to the lower bracket (A) using two 5/16" bolts (J), four flat washers (T), and two nylon lock nuts (V); tighten securely. F-250 models with 3.50" axle tubes do not need an adapter. 2. Drop the axle or raise the frame to make room for the assemblies. 3. Set the left (driver side) assembly onto the axle and raise the axle just enough to insert the 3/8"-16 x 2.5" carriage bolt (L) through the existing jounce bumper hole in the frame bottom, while lining up the upper brace to the remaining two 3/8"-16 x 1.25" carriage bolts (P). 4. Set the right (passenger side) assembly the same way. 5. Raise the axle or lower the frame so the round spacer (Z1 or Z2) on the upper bracket inserts into the stock jounce bumper bracket hole on both sides. 6. Install 3/8" flat washers (W) and 3/8"-16 nylon lock nuts (U) on the 3/8"-16 x 2.5" carriage bolts (L) and tighten securely on both sides. 7. Install the emergency brake cable clamp (G) over the emergency brake cable and attach to the forward brace/upper bracket bolt (P), capped with a 3/8" nylon lock nut (U). 8. Cap the remaining brace/upper bracket carriage bolts (P) with 3/8" flat washers (W) and 3/8"-16 nylon lock nuts (U) and tighten all hardware securely. 9. With the spacers tight in the frame and the braces tight to the upper bracket, tighten the 1/2" or 3/4" hardware that holds the braces to the frame on both sides securely. 10. If equipped with emission lines, insert the line holder post into the L-bracket (H) attached to the back or front leg of the upper left brace (B). Reattach any line holders removed forward or behind the axle. 11. Repeat for the other side. 12. Raise the axle or lower the body and push the lower bracket against the leaf spring. 13. Insert two 3/8" carriage bolts (M) into the square holes in the lower bracket and install the clamp bar (D) onto the carriage bolts. 14. Cap with 3/8" flat washers (W) and nylon lock nuts (U). Torque both nuts evenly to 16 lb-ft.
Yes, drilling is required in specific situations. You must drill two 5/16" holes to install the inflation valves in your chosen location (popular locations include wheel well flanges, license plate recess in bumper, under the gas cap access door, or through the license plate). Additionally, if you have an aftermarket fifth-wheel hitch with a bracket running alongside the frame that does not have existing attaching hardware on the side where the frame slot is, you must drill a 1/2" hole through the plate using the slot as a template. It may be necessary to remove the bracket from the frame to drill the hole correctly before re-attaching.
Use a hose cutter, razor blade, or sharp knife to cut the air line. A clean, square cut is essential to prevent leaks. Do not use wire cutters or scissors, as these tools may flatten or crimp the air line, causing it to leak around the O-ring seal inside the elbow fitting. Cut the air line assembly in two equal lengths, then cut off the air line again, leaving approximately 12" of extra air line when routing to the air fitting on the air spring.
1. Choose a convenient location for the inflation valves with enough clearance for an air chuck (popular locations: wheel well flanges, license plate recess, under gas cap access door, or through license plate). 2. Drill two 5/16" holes. 3. Cut the air line assembly in two equal lengths using a hose cutter, razor blade, or sharp knife (a clean, square cut prevents leaks). 4. Place a 5/16" nut and star washer on the air valve, leaving enough valve exposed to extend through the hole with room for the rubber washer, flat washer, and 5/16" nut and cap—approximately 1/2" should remain exposed for easy pressure gauge or air chuck application. 5. Push the inflation valve through the hole and secure with the rubber washer, flat washer, and another 5/16" nut; tighten to secure. 6. Route the air line along the frame to the air fitting on the air spring, maintaining at least 6" clearance from heat sources (exhaust pipes, muffler, catalytic converter), avoiding sharp bends and edges. Use plastic zip ties to secure the line to fixed, non-moving chassis points, keeping ties tight but not pinching the line, with at least 2" of slack for movement. 7. Cut the air line leaving approximately 12" of extra length, then insert into the 90° swivel fitting until it bottoms out (9/16" of air line should be in the fitting).
Torque the two 3/8" carriage bolts (M) that secure the clamp bar (D) to the lower bracket to 16 lb-ft. Tighten both nuts evenly.
The system provides air adjustability from 5–100 PSI (0.34–7 BAR). The minimum recommended air pressure is 5 PSI (0.34 BAR) and the maximum air pressure is 100 PSI (7 BAR). Never inflate beyond 100 PSI. The air pressure actually needed is dependent on load and gross vehicle weight rating. Always maintain normal ride height.
Critical safety precautions include: (1) Raise the vehicle and support the axle with safety stands, setting the stands as wide as possible on the axle—never work under a vehicle supported only by a jack. (2) Do not pinch previously moved wiring or lines inside the left frame rail when raising the axle. (3) When cutting or trimming the air line, use a hose cutter, razor blade, or sharp knife to ensure a clean, square cut; do not use wire cutters or scissors, as these may flatten or crimp the line and cause leaks. (4) Maintain at least 6" clearance between the air line and heat sources such as exhaust pipes, muffler, or catalytic converter. (5) Do not exceed the vehicle's maximum Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR) or payload rating as indicated by the vehicle manufacturer. (6) Do not exceed 100 PSI (7 BAR) air pressure. (7) Wear safety glasses during installation.
Before road testing, complete the following checks: (1) Clearance test—Inflate the air springs to 40–60 PSI (2.8–4.1 BAR) and ensure at least 1/2" (13 mm) clearance from anything that might rub, including the tire, brakes, frame, shock absorbers, and brake cables. (2) Leak test—Inflate the air springs to 40–60 PSI and check all connections for leaks using a soapy water solution; all leaks must be eliminated before road testing. (3) Heat test—Verify at least 6" (152 mm) clearance from heat sources for air springs and air lines; install the heat shield if included. (4) Fastener test—After 500 miles (800 km), recheck all bolts for proper torque. (5) Road test—Drive the vehicle 10 miles (16 km) and recheck for clearance, loose fasteners, and air leaks.
Regular maintenance includes: (1) Check air pressure weekly. (2) Always maintain normal ride height. (3) Never inflate beyond 100 PSI (7 BAR). (4) If the system develops an air leak, use a soapy water solution to check all air line connections and the inflation valve core before deflating and removing the air spring. (5) After 500 miles (800 km), recheck all bolts for proper torque.
1. Bend the heat shield tabs to provide a 1/2" dead air space between the exhaust pipe and heat shield. 2. Attach the heat shield to the exhaust pipe using the supplied clamps. 3. Bend the heat shield for maximum clearance to the air spring. Note: Some vehicles have large resonators in this area and may require doubling up on the clamps to fit properly.
The LoadLifter 5000 Ultimate provides up to 5,000 lbs of load leveling support. The system uses reinforced, commercial-grade convolute bellows with an internal jounce bumper that absorbs shock and eliminates harsh jarring on rough roads. The internal jounce bumper replaces the factory bumper and allows the air springs to safely be run at zero air pressure.
Yes, the LoadLifter 5000 Ultimate kits are used in motorhome rear kits and some motorhome fronts where leaf springs are used. However, the manual does not provide specific installation instructions for motorhomes, so you should contact Air Lift Company customer service at (800) 248-0892 for motorhome-specific guidance.
Yes, it fits ¾ and 1 ton pickups including F-250 and F-350 with leaf springs. F-250 models (3.50" axle) need no adapter; F-350 models (4.00" axle) require an adapter included in the kit.
Yes. You must drill two 5/16" holes for the inflation valves. If you have an aftermarket fifth-wheel hitch without existing hardware on the frame slot, you must also drill a 1/2" hole through the hitch plate.
Torque the two 3/8" carriage bolts securing the clamp bar to the lower bracket to 16 lb-ft, tightening both nuts evenly.
Minimum recommended: 5 PSI (0.34 BAR); maximum: 100 PSI (7 BAR). Never exceed 100 PSI. Actual pressure needed depends on load and vehicle GVWR.
No. The kit does not alter GVWR or payload. You must not exceed the maximum load listed in your vehicle's owner's manual.
Inflate to 40–60 PSI and check: (1) at least 1/2" clearance from tires, brakes, frame, shocks, and cables; (2) all air line connections for leaks using soapy water; (3) at least 6" clearance from exhaust and heat sources. After 500 miles, recheck all bolts for proper torque.
Check air pressure weekly. Maintain normal ride height. Never exceed 100 PSI. If a leak develops, use soapy water to locate it before deflating. Recheck all bolts after 500 miles.
Use a soapy water solution (spray bottle with dish soap and water) to check all air line connections and the inflation valve core. Spray the solution on all connections while the system is pressurized to 40–60 PSI. Bubbles will form at the location of any leak. All leaks must be eliminated before the vehicle is road tested.
A leak around the O-ring seal inside the elbow fitting is typically caused by an improper cut to the air line. The air line must be cut with a hose cutter, razor blade, or sharp knife to ensure a clean, square cut. Do not use wire cutters or scissors, as these tools flatten or crimp the air line, preventing a proper seal. Remove the air line from the fitting, trim it with the correct tool, and reinsert until it bottoms out (approximately 9/16" should be in the fitting).
Inflate the air springs to 40–60 PSI (2.8–4.1 BAR) and visually inspect for at least 1/2" (13 mm) clearance from anything that might rub. Specifically check: the tire, brakes, frame, shock absorbers, and brake cables. If rubbing is detected, identify the source and adjust the heat shield, air line routing, or bracket position as needed. Ensure the heat shield is bent for maximum clearance to the air spring.
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