Our in-house experts typically reply within one business day.
CURT
Verify Fitment
Select your vehicle to confirm this part fits.
Always the correct part
We know our products
Quality Products
Free Shipping!
Always the correct part
We know our products
Quality Products
Free Shipping!
Includes mounting brackets only (gooseneck hitch sold separately)
Capacity limited to lowest-rated towing component
Includes mounting brackets only (gooseneck hitch sold separately)
Warranty: Limited Lifetime Warranty (One-Year Finish, One-Year Parts)
Finish: A-COAT
Installation Time Exact (Minutes): 0
Choosing the right gooseneck hitch is only half the battle in preparing your pickup truck for towing a gooseneck trailer. CURT gooseneck hitches are a premium option in the heavy-duty towing industry, but they are only one of the members in the heavyweight tag team that is CURT gooseneck towing. While a gooseneck hitch gets all the glory above the floor of your truck bed, gooseneck installation brackets provide sure footing and a solid foundation for that oversized gooseneck trailer. Gooseneck installation brackets work by bolting onto the frame of your truck, typically using pre-existing holes. With a set of brackets firmly bolted on, a gooseneck hitch is able to be attached and is given the strength it needs to manage the massive amount of weight of a gooseneck trailer. With so many gooseneck hitch options available from CURT, we wanted to make sure we offered the gooseneck installation products needed to give you a complete towing package. Our installation brackets fit multiple vehicles and hitch heads. This particular set of gooseneck installation brackets is able to work with CURT Double Lock, Quick Goose II and under-bed folding ball gooseneck hitches. It is rated to the vehicle's maximum gross trailer weight capacity and provides a custom fit for certain years of the Ford F150, Ford F250 with old body style or Ford F350 (see application info to verify fitment). With each set of CURT gooseneck installation brackets, we provide the necessary hardware for an easier installation, and we coat our gooseneck brackets in a liquid A-coat to make sure rust and other potential damages are not a problem.
CURT offers a variety of high-quality trailer hitches and accessories for select vehicle models. Find the perfect fit for your towing needs at TowUniverse.
CURT, a Lippert brand, offers a complete line of towing products and is the leading manufacturer of custom-fit trailer hitches. We offer the broadest selection of custom-fit hitches, and each one is designed, welded, and coated in Wisconsin.
CURT is also a leader in flat towing products, as well as 5th wheel, gooseneck, and weight distribution hitches, ball mounts, electrical components, cargo solutions, and other towing accessories.
For everything from passenger cars and vans to full-size pickups and SUVs, CURT is 'The First Name in Towing Products®.'
Experts available to answer your questions
Call 888-634-94947 compatible vehicles
| Year | Make & Model | Style | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1980 - 1996 | Ford F-150 | — | Drilling Required |
| 1983, 1996 | Ford F-250 | Crew Cab Pickup | Drilling Required |
| 1980 - 1998 | Ford F-250 | Extended Cab Pickup | Drilling Required |
| 1980 - 1998 | Ford F-250 | Standard Cab Pickup · 2-Door | Drilling Required |
| 1983 - 1997 | Ford F-350 | Crew Cab Pickup | Drilling Required |
| 1980, 1988 - 1997 | Ford F-350 | Extended Cab Pickup | Drilling Required |
| 1980 - 1997 | Ford F-350 | Standard Cab Pickup · 2-Door | Drilling Required |
The CURT 60636 Under-Bed Gooseneck Installation Brackets, Fits Select Ford F-150, F-250, F-350 (Part #BKDK60636) fits 1980-1996 Ford F-150 models. The 1998 model year is the last year covered by this part number. For newer models, check for an updated version.
The CURT 60636 Under-Bed Gooseneck Installation Brackets, Fits Select Ford F-150, F-250, F-350 (Part #BKDK60636) fits the following vehicles: 1980-1996 Ford F-150; 1980-1998 Ford F-250; 1980-1997 Ford F-350. Always verify your specific year, make, and model before ordering.
Yes, the CURT 60636 Under-Bed Gooseneck Installation Brackets, Fits Select Ford F-150, F-250, F-350 (Part #BKDK60636) is designed to fit the 1980-1996 Ford F-150.
The CURT 60636 Under-Bed Gooseneck Installation Brackets, Fits Select Ford F-150, F-250, F-350 (Part #BKDK60636) Drilling is required for installation. Basic hand tools are typically all you need.
The Curt 60636 gooseneck hitch subkit fits 80–96 Ford 1/2, 3/4, and 1 ton trucks, and 97–98 Ford 3/4 and 1 ton trucks (with and without overload springs) in old body style with long or short beds. Verify your truck year, tonnage, and body style before purchasing.
Yes. Trucks with overload springs require modification: cut 10 inches off the back of the sideplates (the narrow end), then install the 1-inch bolts as described in the standard procedure. Drill a 1/2-inch hole through the frame rails at the slot nearest the front of the sideplate and attach with a 1/2-inch × 1-1/2-inch bolt and washer from the inside of the frame, finger tight only with a 1/2-inch flange nut.
Yes, but a clearance check must be performed when the truck is both loaded and unloaded to verify the inverted ball will not interfere with the top of the differential. This check is required before use.
Yes, the Curt 60636 fits both long and short bed models. However, on short bed trucks you must check for adequate turning clearance between the front of all trailers and the truck cab before towing. The hitch ball location is positioned 4–5 inches in front of the axle.
The kit includes: 6 × 1/2-inch hex head cap screws (HHCS) 1-1/2 inches long, grade 8; 6 × 1/2-inch flat washers; 14 × 1/2-inch serrated flange nuts; 8 × 1/2-inch carriage bolts 1-1/2 inches long, grade 8; 2 × 1/2-inch tube spacers; 2 × 1-inch HHCS 2-1/2 inches long, grade 5; 2 × 1-inch hex nuts; 2 × 1-inch lock washers; and 2 × 1-inch flat washers.
Required tools include a tape measure, drill with a 4-inch hole saw (or 3-5/8-inch for C-630/C-640 models), saber saw with metal cutting blade (alternative to hole saw), ratchet strap, crescent wrench or channel locks, and torque wrench. An overhead lifting device such as a chain fall, engine hoist, or cable come-a-long is recommended to help position the center section.
Yes. Step 1 requires you to lower and remove the spare tire and heat shield. The heat shield is located above the rear axle under the truck bed and is attached with four sheet metal screws (7/32-inch hex head). Replace the front screw after removing the heat shield.
Measure 48-1/16 inches from the tailgate end of the truck bed (hook the tape measure over the back of the truck box; do not measure from the edge of the tailgate). Mark the center between the wheel wells. This center point is where you drill. This location is critical and will position the ball 4–5 inches in front of the axle. Measure, mark, and cut carefully.
Make a 4-inch hole using a 4-inch hole saw, or cut a 4-inch circle with a saber saw equipped with a metal cutting blade. (For C-630/C-640 models, use a 3-5/8-inch hole instead.) The round hitch receiver tube that protrudes from the center section must fit through this hole.
Yes. The bed floor flange must be cut approximately 2 inches to the rear of the frontmost bed frame rail to allow the rear cross arm to be installed between the bed and frame. This cut is shown in Figure 1 of the manual.
Yes. The manual describes cutting the bed floor flange as part of the installation process with no option to reverse it. This is a permanent modification to the truck bed.
Yes. All models require modification or removal of heat shields. The heat shield is located above the rear axle under the truck bed and is attached with four sheet metal screws (7/32-inch hex head). The manual requires you to remove it in step 1 and replace the front screw after removal.
Yes. On Power Stroke diesels only, loosen the tail pipe hanger bracket in front of the rear axle. Place a ratchet strap around the highest part of the tail pipe and rear axle, then pull the tail pipe down by tightening the ratchet strap to achieve sufficient clearance for hitch parts. After installing parts, insert a 1/4-inch shim in the tail pipe bracket and tighten. Cut the safety chain U-bolts on the exhaust pipe side to an inside length of 3-1/4 inches, and cut 1-1/2 inches off the safety chain springs.
Install the rear cross arm first (it has the deepest notches at the ends), then the front cross arm. The rear cross arm is installed with notches facing the front of the truck; the front cross arm is installed with notches facing the rear of the truck. Both are slid between the bed and frame on the passenger side in an inverted V position, then rotated so the notches are perpendicular to the truck bed and the cut-outs span the truck frame.
Before raising the center section in position between the cross arms, drop the back exhaust hanger. The round hitch receiver that protrudes from the top of the center section must fit through the hole in the truck bed. An overhead lifting device (chain falls, engine hoist, or cable come-a-long) can be used: lower a loop of rope or chain through the hole in the truck bed floor and attach it to the round hitch receiver tube in the center section, then raise it until the receiver fits in the hole. Disconnect the lifting device before squaring the center section across the frame, installing the sideplates, and torquing fasteners.
Using 8 × 1/2-inch carriage bolts, attach the center section to the holes in both cross arms. Secure with 8 × 1/2-inch flange nuts, finger tight only at this stage. When re-attaching the exhaust hanger, bend it upward to adjust if tailpipes touch the center section.
Square the center section and cross arms across the frame. Place a 1-1/2-inch bolt with a washer through the back flange of the sideplate into the rear cross arm and finger tight only with a 1/2-inch flange nut. Place a 1-1/2-inch bolt with a flat washer through the front flange of the sideplate into the front cross arm and finger tight only with a 1/2-inch flange nut. Repeat for the other side. Before attaching the driver sideplate, locate and release the brake line and fuel line retaining clip from the frame rail on the driver side. If bed bolts were loosened in step 4, re-tighten them now.
For trucks without overload springs: Align the large 1-inch hole and the rear hole on each sideplate to the existing holes in the truck frame. Place a 1-inch bolt with a 1-inch washer through the inside of the frame. Place the tube spacer between the frame and sideplate and attach a 1-inch washer, 1-inch lock washer, and 1-inch nut on the outside of the sideplates, finger tight only. On the rear of the sideplate, place a 1/2-inch × 1-1/2-inch bolt through the inside of the truck frame through the sideplate and attach with a 1/2-inch flange nut, finger tight only. For trucks with overload springs, see the overload springs compatibility answer.
Torque all 1-inch fasteners to 300 ft-lbs and all 1/2-inch fasteners to 110 ft-lbs in the following order: (1) torque the center section to the front and rear cross arms; (2) torque the sideplate flanges to the front and rear cross arms; (3) torque the sideplates to the truck frame on both sides. All fasteners must be finger tight only during assembly and tightened only after the hitch is squared and fully assembled.
Do not exceed the recommended vehicle towing weight. The manual does not specify a weight limit for the hitch itself; refer to your Ford truck's manufacturer specifications for the maximum towing capacity.
On short bed models, check for adequate turning clearance between the front of all trailers and the truck cab before towing. On two-wheel drive trucks, perform a clearance check when the truck is both loaded and unloaded to verify the inverted ball will not interfere with the top of the differential. Use the clearance calculation provided in the manual (page 3) to verify the trailer coupler will not interfere with the truck cab.
Yes. Brake, fuel, and electrical lines may need to be loosened or repositioned to provide clearance for new hardware. Before attaching the driver sideplate, locate and release the brake line and fuel line retaining clip from the frame rail on the driver side.
Maintenance is required every 30 days or prior to use: (1) keep the hitch ball lubricated regularly using silicone spray or equivalent to prevent wear and rust; (2) keep the hitch assembly free of dirt and other foreign debris; (3) check for proper torque on all nuts and bolts before each use and check for excessive wear; (4) check for ball wear before each use and do not tow a trailer with worn or damaged parts.
After installation, verify that the center section is squared across the frame and all fasteners are properly torqued (1-inch fasteners to 300 ft-lbs, 1/2-inch fasteners to 110 ft-lbs). Check that the round hitch receiver tube protrudes correctly through the hole in the truck bed. On two-wheel drive trucks, perform a clearance check when loaded and unloaded to verify the inverted ball does not interfere with the differential. On short bed trucks, verify adequate turning clearance between the trailer front and truck cab.
The Curt 60636 fits 80–96 Ford 1/2, 3/4, and 1 ton trucks, and 97–98 Ford 3/4 and 1 ton trucks (with and without overload springs) in old body style with long or short beds.
Yes. You must drill a 4-inch hole in the truck bed at 48-1/16 inches from the tailgate (measured from the back of the truck box, not the tailgate edge), centered between the wheel wells. You must also cut the bed floor flange approximately 2 inches to the rear of the frontmost bed frame rail.
Yes. All models require modification or removal of heat shields. Remove the heat shield located above the rear axle (attached with four 7/32-inch hex head sheet metal screws) and replace the front screw after removal.
You need a tape measure, 4-inch hole saw (or saber saw with metal cutting blade), ratchet strap, crescent wrench or channel locks, and a torque wrench. An overhead lifting device (chain fall, engine hoist, or cable come-a-long) is recommended.
Torque all 1-inch fasteners to 300 ft-lbs and all 1/2-inch fasteners to 110 ft-lbs. Torque in this order: (1) center section to cross arms; (2) sideplate flanges to cross arms; (3) sideplates to truck frame.
On short bed trucks, verify adequate turning clearance between the trailer front and truck cab. On two-wheel drive trucks, check clearance when loaded and unloaded to ensure the inverted ball does not interfere with the differential. Use the clearance calculation on page 3 to verify the trailer coupler will not hit the cab.
Every 30 days or before use: lubricate the hitch ball with silicone spray, keep the assembly clean, check all fastener torque, and inspect the ball for wear. Do not tow with worn or damaged parts.
On Sale Today
Original price was $420.95. Current price is $260.99.You save $159.96 (38%)
Free Shipping
Ships free on all orders
Authorized Dealer
Quick Ship
In stock and ready to ship — order now!
Shipping from Atlanta, GAFREE SHIPPING
Estimated delivery Sun, Aug 16 - Tue, Aug 18
Order before 2 PM EST Monday–Friday for same-day processing
Guaranteed safe & secure checkout
No reviews have been added for this product.