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1999 - 2016 Ford F-350 Super Duty
Confirmed to Fit
1999 - 2016 Ford F-350 Super Duty
Confirmed to Fit
1999 - 2016 Ford F-350 Super Duty
Confirmed to Fit
2008 - 2012 Ford F-450 Super Duty
Confirmed to Fit
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Always the correct part
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Includes mounting brackets only (gooseneck hitch sold separately)
Capacity limited to lowest-rated towing component
Includes mounting brackets only (gooseneck hitch sold separately)
Warranty: Limited Lifetime Warranty (One-Year Finish, One-Year Parts)
Finish: A-COAT
Installation Time Exact (Minutes): 0
Choosing the right gooseneck hitch is only half the battle in preparing your pickup truck for towing a gooseneck trailer. CURT gooseneck hitches are a premium option in the heavy-duty towing industry, but they are only one of the members in the heavyweight tag team that is CURT gooseneck towing. While a gooseneck hitch gets all the glory above the floor of your truck bed, gooseneck installation brackets provide sure footing and a solid foundation for that oversized gooseneck trailer. Gooseneck installation brackets work by bolting onto the frame of your truck, typically using pre-existing holes. With a set of brackets firmly bolted on, a gooseneck hitch is able to be attached and is given the strength it needs to manage the massive amount of weight of a gooseneck trailer. With so many gooseneck hitch options available from CURT, we wanted to make sure we offered the gooseneck installation products needed to give you a complete towing package. Our installation brackets fit multiple vehicles and hitch heads. This particular set of gooseneck installation brackets is able to work with CURT Double Lock, Quick Goose II and under-bed folding ball gooseneck hitches. It is rated to the vehicle's maximum gross trailer weight capacity and provides a custom fit for certain years of the Ford F250, F350 Super Duty or F450 Super Duty (excluding cab and chassis) (see application info to verify fitment). With each set of CURT gooseneck installation brackets, we provide the necessary hardware for an easier installation, and we coat our gooseneck brackets in a liquid A-coat to make sure rust and other potential damages are not a problem.
CURT offers a variety of high-quality trailer hitches and accessories for select vehicle models. Find the perfect fit for your towing needs at TowUniverse.
CURT, a Lippert brand, offers a complete line of towing products and is the leading manufacturer of custom-fit trailer hitches. We offer the broadest selection of custom-fit hitches, and each one is designed, welded, and coated in Wisconsin.
CURT is also a leader in flat towing products, as well as 5th wheel, gooseneck, and weight distribution hitches, ball mounts, electrical components, cargo solutions, and other towing accessories.
For everything from passenger cars and vans to full-size pickups and SUVs, CURT is 'The First Name in Towing Products®.'
Experts available to answer your questions
Call 888-634-9494Rediscover "Us" Time | Tested. Proven. Safe. Towing Products
5 compatible vehicles
| Year | Make & Model | Style | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1999 - 2016 | Ford F-250 Super Duty | — | No Drilling Required Visibility: Exposed |
| 1999 - 2016 | Ford F-350 Super Duty | Crew Cab Pickup · 4-Door | No Drilling Required Visibility: Exposed |
| 1999 - 2016 | Ford F-350 Super Duty | Extended Cab Pickup · 4-Door | No Drilling Required Visibility: Exposed |
| 1999 - 2016 | Ford F-350 Super Duty | Standard Cab Pickup · 2-Door | No Drilling Required Visibility: Exposed |
| 2008 - 2012 | Ford F-450 Super Duty | Crew Cab Pickup · 4-Door | No Drilling Required Visibility: Exposed |
The CURT Under-Bed Gooseneck Installation Brackets, Select Ford F-250, F-350, F-450 Gooseneck Trailer Hitch Mount Kit (Part #BKDK60644) fits the following vehicles: 1999-2016 Ford F-250 Super Duty; 1999-2016 Ford F-350 Super Duty; 2008-2012 Ford F-450 Super Duty. Always verify your specific year, make, and model before ordering.
Yes, the CURT Under-Bed Gooseneck Installation Brackets, Select Ford F-250, F-350, F-450 Gooseneck Trailer Hitch Mount Kit (Part #BKDK60644) is designed to fit the 1999-2016 Ford F-250 Super Duty.
The CURT Under-Bed Gooseneck Installation Brackets, Select Ford F-250, F-350, F-450 Gooseneck Trailer Hitch Mount Kit (Part #BKDK60644) fits 1999-2016 Ford F-250 Super Duty models. The 2016 model year is the last year covered by this part number. For newer models, check for an updated version.
The CURT Under-Bed Gooseneck Installation Brackets, Select Ford F-250, F-350, F-450 Gooseneck Trailer Hitch Mount Kit (Part #BKDK60644) Drilling is not required for installation. Basic hand tools are typically all you need.
The Curt 60644 SUBKIT is a gooseneck hitch subframe kit designed for 1999-current Ford 3/4 and 1 ton Super Duty trucks and 2008+ F-450 models. The kit includes crossarms, sideplates, fasteners (carriage bolts, hex bolts, washers, flange nuts, and U-bolts), a fuel line bracket, and exhaust spacer components for diesel models. It does not include the gooseneck hitch head itself, which is sold separately.
Yes, the 60644 SUBKIT fits both long and short bed models. However, on short bed models you must check for adequate turning clearance between the front of the trailer and the truck cab before towing. The manual provides a clearance calculation method on page 4 to verify the trailer will not interfere with the cab during turns.
Yes, the 60644 SUBKIT is compatible with or without aftermarket air bag overloads, as stated in the product application.
Yes, the 60644 SUBKIT is designed for 2008-current Ford F-450 trucks as well as Super Duty 3/4 and 1 ton models.
On 2005 and newer Ford Super Duty trucks with diesel engines, yes—the exhaust must be lowered. The kit includes exhaust spacer mounts and a spacer plate for this purpose. On 2008-current diesel models, an additional exhaust spacer plate is installed at the center exhaust hanger. Gasoline engine trucks do not require exhaust modification.
On 2004 and older Ford Super Duty trucks, yes—the emergency brake cable on the driver's side frame must be relocated. The kit includes a 5/16" carriage bolt for this purpose. On 2005 and newer models, this relocation is not required.
Only if necessary. On gasoline engine trucks, if the oval hole in the driver's side frame just above the axle is partially blocked by the fuel line bracket, you will need to relocate it. This is done by removing the bracket, rotating it 90°, and reinstalling it with the supplied 5/16" carriage bolt. The kit includes a fuel line bracket (CM-60644-FLB) for this purpose.
Only if necessary. Some truck models allow the crossarms to slide between the frame and bed without modification. If this is not possible, you must cut a small notch in the flange on the driver's side of the truck. The manual shows the approximate trim line in Figure B, measured back from the front bed crossmember in the wheel well.
On 1999-2010 models, the hitch ball is positioned 4–6 inches in front of the axle, with the center cylinder offset towards the front of the vehicle. On 2011-current models, the center cylinder must be rotated 180° so it is offset towards the rear of the vehicle. Both configurations result in the same ball position relative to the axle.
A clearance check must be performed on two-wheel drive trucks when the truck is both loaded and unloaded to verify the inverted ball will not interfere with the top of the differential. This is a critical safety check that must be completed before towing.
Required tools include a 4-inch hole saw (or 3 5/8 inches for the C-640 model) or a saber saw with metal cutting blade, a hammer and punch, a torque wrench capable of 380 ft.-lbs and 110 ft.-lbs, a deep well socket and ratchet, and standard wrenches. A lifting device such as an engine hoist or cable come-a-long is recommended to help position the center section, especially if the truck bed has been distorted.
The manual states that the Curt C-606 Gooseneck Install Tool is recommended for ease of installation but does not confirm whether it is included in the kit. You should verify with the seller or Curt Manufacturing whether this tool is included or must be purchased separately.
The kit includes: three 5/16-18 x 1 inch carriage bolts, three 5/16-18 hex flange nuts, twelve 1/2-13 x 1 1/2 inch carriage bolts, four 1/2-13 x 1 1/2 inch hex bolts, four 1/2-inch conical toothed washers, nineteen 1/2-13 hex flange nuts, one 1/2-13 x 3 3/4 x 7 5/8 x 2 square U-bolt, two 3/4-10 x 2 1/2 inch hex bolts, two 3/4-inch flat washers, two 3/4-10 hex flange nuts, and one fuel line bracket.
Measure from the tailgate end of the truck bed by hooking a tape measure over the back of the truck box—do not measure from the edge of the tailgate. Next, mark the center between the wheel wells. This center point is where you will drill the hole. The hole location is critical and will position the hitch ball 4–6 inches in front of the axle. If your truck has a spray-on bed liner, add 1/8 to 3/16 inch to the measured location.
You may drill through both the bed liner and truck bed, but it is more difficult to accurately locate the midpoint between the wheel wells and to keep the bed liner from moving while cutting. The manual recommends careful measurement and marking before drilling.
The manual does not require bed removal. The installation is performed with the bed in place, and the center section is raised into position between the crossarms after they are installed.
Yes. The manual states that all models require modification or removal of the heat shield located under the truck bed above the rear axle. This must be removed in Installation Step 3.
Drill a 4-inch hole in the truck bed using a 4-inch hole saw or by marking a 4-inch circle and cutting it out with a saber saw equipped with a metal cutting blade. (For the C-640 model, the hole size is 3 5/8 inches.) The hole location is critical and must be measured carefully from the tailgate end and centered between the wheel wells.
Yes, a 4-inch hole must be drilled in the truck bed to allow the center cylinder to protrude through the bed floor. This is a permanent modification and is critical for correct hitch installation.
Only if necessary. Some truck models allow the crossarms to slide between the frame and bed without modification. If the crossarm cannot slide freely, you must cut a small notch in the flange on the driver's side of the truck. The manual shows the approximate trim line in Figure B, measured back from the front bed crossmember in the wheel well.
Yes, on 2005 and newer Ford Super Duty trucks with diesel engines, the exhaust must be lowered. The kit includes exhaust spacer mounts and bolts for this purpose. On 2008-current diesel models, an additional exhaust spacer plate is installed at the center exhaust hanger. The manual provides detailed procedures and figures for both single-bolt and two-bolt factory exhaust mount configurations.
Torque all 3/4-inch fasteners to 380 ft.-lbs and all 1/2-inch fasteners to 110 ft.-lbs. Torque in this order: (1) center section to front and rear crossarms, (2) side plates to truck frame on both sides, and (3) side plates to front and rear crossarms. When torquing U-bolts, tighten them slowly while alternating between the top and bottom until equally tightened to a maximum of 40 ft.-lbs.
The U-bolt (CM-1213-UBS) must be torqued to a maximum of 40 ft.-lbs. Tighten it slowly while alternating between the top and bottom of the U-bolt until equally tightened.
On 1999-2010 models, the distance is 48 1/4 inches. On 2011-current models, the distance is 46 inches. Both measurements place the hitch ball 4–6 inches in front of the axle.
Install the rear crossarm first (it has three notches). Slide it between the frame and bed on the driver's side, with the leg containing oval holes facing toward the cab. Roll it over the shock bracket and slide it back until it is about four inches behind the four-inch hole in the truck bed. Then install the front crossarm the same way, except with the oval holes facing the rear of the truck. Slide it rearward slightly and leave it behind the shock bracket until needed.
Install the "C" shaped mounting strap (or U-bolt on 2011+ diesel models) around the frame approximately 6 1/2 inches in front of the slotted hole. Slide the sideplate bottom between the frame and the mounting strap. Guide the stud through the hole in the plate and attach loosely with a 1/2-inch flange nut. Place a 1/2-inch bolt with a conical toothed washer through the mounting strap and sideplate, and attach loosely with a 1/2-inch flange nut. Install a 3/4-inch bolt and washer through the sideplate hole and frame slot, and attach on the backside with a 3/4-inch flange nut. Leave all hardware loose until final torquing. Repeat for the passenger side.
A lifting device such as an engine hoist or cable come-a-long is recommended. After drilling the hole in the truck bed, lower a rope or chain loop through the hole and attach it to the center of the gooseneck hitch. Raise the gooseneck so the center ring protrudes through the bed floor. Maintain upward pressure from the lifting device while attaching the center section to the crossarms. Remove the lifting device before torquing hardware.
Using four 1/2-inch carriage bolts and flange nuts, attach the center section to the square holes in the front crossarm. Next, attach the rear crossarm to the center section using four 1/2-inch carriage bolts and flange nuts (finger tighten only). Finally, bolt the sideplates to the crossarms using 1/2-inch bolts, washers, and flange nuts. On 2011-current models, rotate the cylinder in the center section towards the back of the bed.
All fasteners should be left loose during assembly. Final torquing is performed only after the center section and sideplates are fully installed. Torque in this specific order: (1) center section to front and rear crossarms, (2) side plates to truck frame on both sides, and (3) side plates to front and rear crossarms.
On 2005-current diesel models, the exhaust hanger must be re-attached after lowering the exhaust. On 2008-current diesel models, an exhaust spacer plate is inserted at the center exhaust hanger using a deep well socket to loosen the nuts on top of the crossmember, then the nuts are retightened. The manual provides detailed procedures in Figures D-G for both single-bolt and two-bolt factory exhaust mount configurations.
The manual states "Do not exceed recommended vehicle towing weight" but does not specify a maximum weight. The towing capacity is determined by the vehicle manufacturer's recommendations. You must consult your Ford Super Duty owner's manual or contact Ford for the specific towing capacity of your truck.
On short bed models, you must check for adequate turning clearance between the front of the trailer and the truck cab before towing. The manual provides a clearance calculation method on page 4. Measure the distance from the cab to the hitch ball center (X), subtract half the trailer width (Y), and subtract any coupler overhang (W). If the result is positive, the trailer will not interfere with the cab. If negative, the trailer will interfere.
On two-wheel drive trucks, you must perform a clearance check when the truck is both loaded and unloaded to verify the inverted ball will not interfere with the top of the differential. This is a critical safety check that must be completed before towing.
Removal of rear window accessories may be required, though the manual does not specify which accessories or under what conditions. You should check your specific truck configuration and consult with the installer if needed.
After installation, verify that all fasteners are torqued to specification (3/4-inch fasteners to 380 ft.-lbs, 1/2-inch fasteners to 110 ft.-lbs, U-bolts to 40 ft.-lbs maximum). Check that the hitch ball is properly positioned and that there is adequate clearance between the trailer and truck cab (especially on short bed models) and between the inverted ball and differential (on two-wheel drive trucks). Verify that the exhaust has adequate clearance and that all brake, fuel, and electrical lines have been properly repositioned.
Maintenance is required every 30 days or prior to use: (1) Keep the hitch ball lubricated regularly using silicone spray or equivalent to prevent wear and rust. (2) Keep the hitch assembly free of dirt and other foreign debris. (3) Check for proper torque on all nuts and bolts before each use and check for excessive wear. (4) Check for ball wear before each use. Do not tow a trailer with worn or damaged parts.
Check for proper torque on all nuts and bolts before each use. The manual does not specify a retorque interval beyond this pre-use inspection.
Use silicone spray or equivalent to lubricate the hitch ball regularly. This prevents wear and rust.
Yes, the 60644 fits 1999-current Ford 3/4 and 1 ton Super Duty trucks and 2008+ F-450 models, both long and short bed, with or without aftermarket air bag overloads. On short bed models, you must verify turning clearance between the trailer and cab before towing.
You need a 4-inch hole saw (or saber saw with metal cutting blade), hammer and punch, torque wrench (capable of 380 ft.-lbs and 110 ft.-lbs), deep well socket and ratchet, and standard wrenches. A lifting device such as an engine hoist is recommended.
Yes, the heat shield located under the truck bed above the rear axle must be removed or modified on all models.
Torque 3/4-inch fasteners to 380 ft.-lbs and 1/2-inch fasteners to 110 ft.-lbs. U-bolts are torqued to a maximum of 40 ft.-lbs, alternating between top and bottom. Torque in order: center section to crossarms, sideplates to frame, then sideplates to crossarms.
On short bed trucks, verify turning clearance between the trailer front and cab using the calculation method on page 4. On two-wheel drive trucks, check that the inverted ball does not interfere with the differential when the truck is both loaded and unloaded.
Every 30 days or before use: lubricate the hitch ball with silicone spray, keep the assembly clean, check all fastener torque, and inspect the ball for wear. Do not tow with worn or damaged parts.
Some truck models require a notch to be cut in the flange on the driver's side of the truck. Locate the front bed crossmember in the wheel well and measure back from that point. Cut a small notch as shown in Figure B of the manual. This will allow the crossarm to slide freely.
Use a lifting device such as an engine hoist or cable come-a-long. After drilling the hole in the truck bed, lower a rope or chain loop through the hole and attach it to the center of the gooseneck hitch. Raise the gooseneck so the center ring protrudes through the bed floor. Maintain upward pressure from the lifting device while attaching the center section to the crossarms. This is especially helpful if the truck bed has been distorted downward from heavy use.
On gasoline engine trucks, if the oval hole in the driver's side frame just above the axle is partially blocked by the fuel line bracket, remove the bracket from the frame, rotate it 90°, and reinstall it using the supplied 5/16-inch carriage bolt and fuel line bracket (CM-60644-FLB) from the kit.
On 2004 and older trucks, the emergency brake cable on the driver's side frame must be relocated. Knock the mounting stud out of the frame with a hammer and punch and discard it. After the sideplates are installed, place a 5/16-inch carriage bolt through the small square hole in the driver-side sideplate and attach loosely with a 5/16-inch flange nut. This will be used to attach the emergency brake cable bracket.
On 2005 and newer Ford Super Duty trucks with diesel engines, the exhaust must be lowered. First, remove the exhaust hanger located behind the rear tire on the passenger side. Then, depending on your factory exhaust mount configuration (single bolt or two bolts), use the supplied exhaust spacer mount and bolts to lower the exhaust. On 2008-current models, also insert the supplied exhaust spacer plate at the center exhaust hanger. Refer to Figures D-G in the manual for detailed procedures.
On short bed trucks, you must verify turning clearance before towing. Use the clearance calculation method on page 4: measure the distance from the cab to the hitch ball center (X), subtract half the trailer width (Y), and subtract any coupler overhang (W). If the result is negative, the trailer will interfere with the cab and you cannot tow that trailer with your truck configuration.
On two-wheel drive trucks, the inverted ball may interfere with the differential, especially when the truck is loaded. You must perform a clearance check when the truck is both loaded and unloaded. If interference occurs, you cannot safely tow with this hitch configuration. Consult with Curt Manufacturing or a professional installer for alternative solutions.
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