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Always the correct part
We know our products
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Includes mounting brackets only (gooseneck hitch sold separately)
Capacity limited to lowest-rated towing component
Includes mounting brackets only (gooseneck hitch sold separately)
Warranty: Limited Lifetime Warranty (One-Year Finish, One-Year Parts)
Finish: A-COAT
Installation Time Exact (Minutes): 0
Choosing the right gooseneck hitch is only half the battle in preparing your pickup truck for towing a gooseneck trailer. CURT gooseneck hitches are a premium option in the heavy-duty towing industry, but they are only one of the members in the heavyweight tag team that is CURT gooseneck towing. While a gooseneck hitch gets all the glory above the floor of your truck bed, gooseneck installation brackets provide sure footing and a solid foundation for that oversized gooseneck trailer. Gooseneck installation brackets work by bolting onto the frame of your truck, typically using pre-existing holes. With a set of brackets firmly bolted on, a gooseneck hitch is able to be attached and is given the strength it needs to manage the massive amount of weight of a gooseneck trailer. With so many gooseneck hitch options available from CURT, we wanted to make sure we offered the gooseneck installation products needed to give you a complete towing package. Our installation brackets fit multiple vehicles and hitch heads. This particular set of gooseneck installation brackets is able to work with CURT Double Lock, Quick Goose II and under-bed folding ball gooseneck hitches. It is rated to the vehicle's maximum gross trailer weight capacity and provides a custom fit for certain years of the Ford F150, Ford F150 Heritage Edition or Ford F250 with new body style (see application info to verify fitment). With each set of CURT gooseneck installation brackets, we provide the necessary hardware for an easier installation, and we coat our gooseneck brackets in a liquid A-coat to make sure rust and other potential damages are not a problem.
CURT offers a variety of high-quality trailer hitches and accessories for select vehicle models. Find the perfect fit for your towing needs at TowUniverse.
CURT, a Lippert brand, offers a complete line of towing products and is the leading manufacturer of custom-fit trailer hitches. We offer the broadest selection of custom-fit hitches, and each one is designed, welded, and coated in Wisconsin.
CURT is also a leader in flat towing products, as well as 5th wheel, gooseneck, and weight distribution hitches, ball mounts, electrical components, cargo solutions, and other towing accessories.
For everything from passenger cars and vans to full-size pickups and SUVs, CURT is 'The First Name in Towing Products®.'
Experts available to answer your questions
Call 888-634-94943 compatible vehicles
| Year | Make & Model | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| 1997 - 2003 | Ford F-150 | No Drilling Required |
| 2004 | Ford F-150 Heritage | No Drilling Required |
| 1997 - 1999 | Ford F-250 | No Drilling Required Light duty |
The CURT 60637 Under-Bed Gooseneck Installation Brackets, Fits Select Ford F-150, F-250 (Part #BKDK60637) fits the following vehicles: 1997-2003 Ford F-150; 2004 Ford F-150 Heritage; 1997-1999 Ford F-250. Always verify your specific year, make, and model before ordering.
Yes, the CURT 60637 Under-Bed Gooseneck Installation Brackets, Fits Select Ford F-150, F-250 (Part #BKDK60637) is designed to fit the 1997-2003 Ford F-150.
The CURT 60637 Under-Bed Gooseneck Installation Brackets, Fits Select Ford F-150, F-250 (Part #BKDK60637) fits 1997-2003 Ford F-150 models. The 2004 model year is the last year covered by this part number. For newer models, check for an updated version.
The CURT 60637 Under-Bed Gooseneck Installation Brackets, Fits Select Ford F-150, F-250 (Part #BKDK60637) Drilling is not required for installation. Basic hand tools are typically all you need.
No. The Curt 60637 does not fit 1997 Ford trucks equipped with air bag overloads. It is compatible with 1998-2003 Ford 1/2 and 3/4 ton light duty trucks and the 2004 Heritage Edition with old body style, in both long and short bed configurations.
Yes, the Curt 60637 fits both long and short bed Ford trucks from 1997-2003 (excluding 1997 with air bag overloads) and the 2004 Heritage Edition. However, on short bed models you must check for adequate turning clearance between the front of all trailers and the truck cab before use.
Yes. The first installation step is to lower and remove the spare tire before proceeding with hitch installation.
An overhead lifting device such as a chain fall, engine hoist, or cable come-a-long is recommended to lift the center section into place. The device is used to raise the center section until the round hitch receiver tube protruding from it fits through the hole in the truck bed floor. The lifting device should be disconnected before squaring the center section across the frame, installing the sideplates, and torquing fasteners.
Measure 45 7/16 inches from the tailgate end of the truck bed (measuring over the back of the truck box, not from the edge of the tailgate). Mark the center point between the wheel wells. This location is critical for correct installation and will position the ball 4–6 inches in front of the axle. Make a 4-inch hole using a 4-inch hole saw or by cutting a 4-inch circle with a saber saw equipped with a metal cutting blade. If your truck has a plastic bed liner, you may drill through both, but this is more difficult and requires care to keep the liner from moving.
Drilling of the frame may be required on certain models. The installation procedure aligns the rear hole of each sideplate to existing holes in the truck frame. If an existing hole is not present, drilling will be necessary. The manual notes that drilling of this hole may be required on certain models but does not specify which ones.
Yes. All models require modification or removal of heat shields. The manual does not specify which heat shields or the exact procedure, so consult the manufacturer or an experienced installer for guidance on your specific truck.
Yes. Brake, fuel, and electrical lines may need to be loosened or repositioned to provide clearance for new hardware. Check these lines during installation and adjust as necessary before final torquing.
The parts list includes: 8× 1/2-13 UNC 1-1/2 inch grade 8 carriage bolts (10-10287); 4× 1/2 inch flat washers (30-00133); 12× 1/2-13 UNC grade 8 serrated flange nuts (20-00062); 2× 7/16-14 UNC grade 8 serrated flange nuts (20-00103); 2× 7/16-14 UNC 1-1/2 inch grade 8 hex head cap screws (10-10415); 2× 7/16 inch flat washers (30-00166); 4× 1/2-13 UNC 1-1/2 inch grade 8 hex head cap screws (10-10334); 2× 3/4-10 UNC 1-3/4 inch grade 8 hex head cap screws (10-10623); 2× 3/4 inch flat washers (30-00187); and 2× 3/4-10 UNC grade 8 serrated flange nuts (20-00106).
Required tools include a 4-inch hole saw or saber saw with metal cutting blade, tape measure, wrench or socket set for 1/2-inch, 7/16-inch, and 3/4-inch fasteners, and a torque wrench. An overhead lifting device (chain fall, engine hoist, or cable come-a-long) is recommended but not strictly required.
Install the front cross arm first by sliding it between the truck bed and truck frame on the passenger side, then swing the driver's side into place and push toward the front of the truck. The holes in the front cross arm must face the back end of the truck. Then install the rear cross arm by sliding it between the truck frame and truck bed on the passenger side, swing the driver's side into place, and push toward the back of the truck. The holes in the rear cross arm must face the front end of the truck.
Raise the center section in position between the cross arms with the ball cylinder toward the back of the truck. The round hitch receiver that protrudes from the top of the center section must fit through the hole in the truck bed floor. Use 8× 1/2-inch carriage bolts and flange nuts to attach the center section to the front and rear cross arms, tightened finger-tight only at this stage.
Squaring the center section means aligning it perpendicular to the truck frame and cross arms. This is done by placing 2× 1/2-inch × 1-1/2-inch bolts with flat washers through the back and front flanges of each sideplate into the front and rear cross arms, tightened finger-tight with 1/2-inch flange nuts on both sides.
Align one front hole and one rear hole on each sideplate to existing holes in the truck frame. Attach the front holes using 2× 3/4-inch × 1-3/4-inch bolts with flat washers, tightened finger-tight with 3/4-inch nuts. Attach the rear holes using 2× 7/16-inch × 1-1/2-inch bolts, tightened finger-tight with 7/16-inch flange nuts. Drilling of the rear hole may be required on certain models.
Torque all 1/2-inch fasteners to 110 ft-lbs, 7/16-inch fasteners to 70 ft-lbs, and 3/4-inch fasteners to 380 ft-lbs. Torque in this order: first the center section to the front and rear cross arms, second the sideplate flanges to the front and rear cross arms, and third the sideplates to the truck frame on both sides.
On two-wheel drive trucks, a clearance check must be performed when the truck is both loaded and unloaded to verify that the inverted ball will not interfere with the top of the differential. This check is critical because suspension height changes with load.
Use the clearance calculation formula: (Cab to ball center) minus (1/2 trailer width) equals minimum clearance. If the trailer has a coupler overhang, subtract the overhang from the cab-to-ball distance first: [(Cab to ball center) minus (coupler overhang)] minus (1/2 trailer width) equals minimum clearance. If the result is positive, the trailer will not interfere with the cab. If negative, the trailer will interfere. The manual provides example calculations and a worksheet to help you determine clearance for your specific trailer.
Do not exceed the recommended vehicle towing weight. The manual does not specify a weight limit for the hitch itself; refer to your vehicle manufacturer's recommended towing capacity.
Maintenance is required every 30 days or prior to use: (1) Keep the hitch ball lubricated regularly using silicone spray or equivalent to prevent wear and rust. (2) Keep the hitch assembly free of dirt and other foreign debris. (3) Check for proper torque on all nuts and bolts before each use and check for excessive wear. (4) Check for ball wear before each use. Do not tow a trailer with worn or damaged parts.
Yes. Removal of rear window accessories may be required. Check your specific truck configuration during installation.
The Curt 60637 fits 1998-2003 Ford 1/2 and 3/4 ton light duty trucks and the 2004 Heritage Edition with old body style, in both long and short beds. It does not fit 1997 models with air bag overloads.
Yes. You must drill a 4-inch hole in the truck bed floor 45 7/16 inches from the tailgate. Drilling of the truck frame may also be required on certain models.
You need a 4-inch hole saw or saber saw with metal cutting blade, tape measure, wrenches or sockets for 1/2-inch, 7/16-inch, and 3/4-inch fasteners, and a torque wrench. An overhead lifting device (chain fall, engine hoist, or cable come-a-long) is recommended.
Torque 1/2-inch fasteners to 110 ft-lbs, 7/16-inch fasteners to 70 ft-lbs, and 3/4-inch fasteners to 380 ft-lbs in the order specified in the manual.
On short bed models, verify adequate turning clearance between the front of trailers and the truck cab. On two-wheel drive trucks, check clearance when loaded and unloaded to ensure the ball does not interfere with the differential. Calculate trailer-to-cab clearance using the formula provided in the manual.
Maintenance is required every 30 days or prior to use: lubricate the ball, keep the assembly clean, check torque on all fasteners, and inspect for wear. Do not tow with worn or damaged parts.
If the clearance calculation shows a negative result (trailer width minus cab-to-ball distance is negative), the trailer will interfere with the cab. Do not use this trailer with this hitch. You must use a different trailer with a narrower coupler width or a shorter overhang, or verify that your cab-to-ball measurement is correct.
If the clearance check performed when the truck is loaded and unloaded shows that the inverted ball interferes with the top of the differential, do not use the hitch. Contact the manufacturer or an experienced installer to determine whether the hitch can be repositioned or whether a different hitch is required for your truck.
If the truck bed floor has been distorted downward from heavy use, use an overhead lifting device to maintain upward pressure on the center section while fastening the crossmember. This will help facilitate proper alignment and fitting of the round hitch receiver tube through the hole in the truck bed floor.
Do not tow a trailer with a worn or damaged hitch ball. Check the ball for wear before each use as part of the required maintenance. If wear or damage is found, the ball must be replaced before towing.
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