CURT Custom Towed-Vehicle RV Wiring Harness Add-On Trailer Connector KitCURTOriginal price was $72.95. Current price is $72.06.In Stock
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Not compatible with PWM electrical systems
Includes harness, 4-flat extension, mounting bracket and hardware
Includes harness, 4-flat extension, mounting bracket and hardware
Warranty: One-Year Limited Warranty
Installation Time Exact (Minutes): 0
Towing your vehicle behind your RV is a great way to experience more of the adventure on your cross-country excursions. Whether you're towing a compact car or a full-size truck, CURT has the perfect solution to help you Bring It! CURT towed-vehicle RV harnesses allow you to wire your vehicle for dinghy towing. They plug into your vehicle's wiring system and provide a standard 4-way flat connector to plug into the RV socket and synchronize the vehicle's tail lights, turn signals and brake lights with the RV's. If a custom harness isn't available for your vehicle, this RV dinghy tow wiring harness provides a splice-in option. It has a universal design and comes with butt connectors to splice into the vehicle's electrical system (not compatible with PWM systems). Every CURT towed-vehicle RV harness comes ready to install with all necessary hardware included. They also come with a 4-way flat extension to provide plenty of length to plug into the RV socket, as well as a connector mounting bracket to mount the connector on the vehicle.
CURT offers a variety of high-quality trailer hitches and accessories for select vehicle models. Find the perfect fit for your towing needs at TowUniverse.
CURT, a Lippert brand, offers a complete line of towing products and is the leading manufacturer of custom-fit trailer hitches. We offer the broadest selection of custom-fit hitches, and each one is designed, welded, and coated in Wisconsin.
CURT is also a leader in flat towing products, as well as 5th wheel, gooseneck, and weight distribution hitches, ball mounts, electrical components, cargo solutions, and other towing accessories.
For everything from passenger cars and vans to full-size pickups and SUVs, CURT is 'The First Name in Towing Products®.'
Experts available to answer your questions
Call 888-634-9494Rediscover "Us" Time | Tested. Proven. Safe. Towing Products
The Curt 58979 is a taillight converter harness that adapts your vehicle's factory taillight wiring to work with a trailer's lighting system. It converts the vehicle's brake, turn signal, and tail light signals into the proper format for a trailer connector.
Yes, the Curt 58979 is designed for SUVs, vans, passenger cars, and trucks. The manual provides separate wiring location guides for each vehicle type (S for SUVs/vans, P for passenger cars, T for trucks), indicating the product is compatible across these categories.
With the vehicle running and all lights off, probe the taillight connectors while still connected. Using a multimeter set to DC volts, any wires carrying more than 2 volts will not be used. Using a test light, any wires that illuminate the bulb (dim or fully) will not be used. Then activate each light circuit one at a time and probe the remaining wires. If you find 12V flashing on one side for turn signals and 12V on the other side for the same wire, it is two-wire (combined stop and turn). If you find independent 12V flashing for turn signals and separate 12V for brake signals, it is three-wire.
Taillight wire locations vary by vehicle type. For SUVs and vans, they are behind the driver or passenger side taillight housing (S1, S2), behind rear access panels (S3, S4), or behind the rear bumper (S5, S7). For passenger cars, they are behind taillight housings outside the trunk (P1, P2), inside the trunk (P3, P4), or behind the rear bumper (P5, P7). For trucks, they are behind the taillight housing (T1, T2) or behind the rear bumper (T3, T5). Refer to the appropriate wiring location guide on page 1 of the manual for your vehicle type.
Required tools include: ratchet, Phillips screwdriver, cutting tool, socket (varies by vehicle type), flathead screwdriver, wire crimper, socket extension, trim panel removal tool, wire stripper, ratchet extension, drill, heat gun, test light or probe, and a 3/32" drill bit. A fish wire (which can be made from a cut-up wire hanger, stiff wire, rope, or string) may also be needed to route the harness through blind holes.
The manual indicates included parts but does not provide a complete itemized list. Based on the installation steps, the harness includes cable ties, sealant, heat shrink tubing, a ring terminal, a screw for grounding, and the main wiring harness with color-coded wires (green, red, yellow, brown, and white ground wire). Contact Curt Manufacturing or your retailer for a complete parts list.
Yes, you must disconnect the negative battery terminal before beginning installation. Fasten this wire down and away from the battery while completing the installation process. Reconnect it only after all wiring is complete and tested.
The installation is rated as Difficult. The difficulty level is based on time and effort involved and may vary depending on the installer's level of expertise, the condition of the vehicle, and whether proper tools and equipment are available.
1. Locate the taillight wiring and identify the vehicle wiring type (two-wire or three-wire). 2. Disconnect the negative battery terminal. 3. Cut the identified brake, turn signal, and taillight wires; strip 5/16" of coating from both ends; crimp the harness 'input' side to the front-going wires and 'output' side to the taillight wires. 4. Heat shrink-wrap to seal connections. 5. Locate a grounding point near the connector (existing screw or drill a 3/32" pilot hole); secure the white ground wire with the ring terminal and provided screw. 6. Test functionality with a working trailer. 7. Route the 4-flat connector above moving or hot parts; secure with cable ties. 8. Reinstall removed items and reconnect the battery.
First, determine your vehicle wiring type (two-wire or three-wire) by probing the taillight connectors. For two-wire systems: splice the red wire into the brake/turn wire, the brown wire to the tail wire, and close the green and yellow tubes with heat shrink. For three-wire systems: splice the green wire to the right turn wire, the red wire to the brake wire, the yellow wire to the left turn wire, and the brown wire to the tail wire. Strip 5/16" of coating from both ends of all cut wires before crimping. Crimp the harness 'input' side to wires going to the front of the vehicle and the 'output' side to wires going to the taillight.
Strip 5/16" of the wire coating off both ends of all cut wires before crimping the harness connections.
If wires are on the exterior, a fish wire may be needed to properly route the harness to the vehicle under the vehicle between the body and bumper covers. A fish wire is a way to push or pull an electrical wire through a blind hole. Insert the fish wire through the blind hole and locate it on the other side. Use tape to secure the harness to the fish wire and pull back up. If the fish wire or harness gets hung up, you may have to push back down, wiggle it around, or twist the wire to loosen it. Fish wire can be made from a cut-up wire hanger, stiff wire, rope, or string depending on what is needed.
If wires are inside the vehicle, locate an opening large enough to route the 4-flat out, such as a grommet. If a grommet is available with a hole, remove it from the vehicle body. Using a wire cutter, make a cut into the grommet big enough to allow the wiring to be placed inside the mounting groove. Be careful not to cut any wires. Route the harness up from the underside of the vehicle into the trunk through the grommet opening. If applicable, reseat the grommet. Use the provided sealant to seal the cut in the grommet and around all wires to keep the trunk dry and exhaust out of the vehicle. If there is no hole in the floor pan grommet, you will need to drill one.
Drilling is required in two situations: (1) to create a 3/32" pilot hole for the ground screw if no existing screw with nut is available near the taillight connector, and (2) to drill a hole in the floor pan grommet if there is not already a hole large enough to route the wiring harness through. Before drilling, check for miscellaneous items that may be hidden behind or under any surface to avoid damage and personal injury.
A 3/32" drill bit is required to drill the pilot hole for the ground screw near the taillight connector.
Yes, you must cut the identified brake, turn signal, and taillight wires. After cutting, strip 5/16" of the wire coating from both ends of all cut wires before crimping the harness connections.
If a grommet is available on the interior floor pan, you may need to cut it. Using a wire cutter, make a cut into the grommet big enough to allow the wiring to be placed inside the mounting groove. Be careful not to cut any wires. After routing the harness through, use the provided sealant to seal the cut in the grommet and around all wires. If there is no hole in the floor pan grommet, you will need to drill one instead.
Signal circuits are rated at 7.5 amps per side. Tail and running circuits are rated at 7.5 amps total. Do not exceed the product rating or the tow vehicle lamp load rating, whichever is lower. Check your vehicle owner's manual or contact the vehicle manufacturer for more information about your vehicle's lamp load rating.
The harness includes color-coded wires for different functions. For two-wire systems: red wire splices into the brake/turn wire, brown wire splices to the tail wire, and green and yellow wires are closed with heat shrink (not used). For three-wire systems: green wire splices to the right turn wire, red wire splices to the brake wire, yellow wire splices to the left turn wire, and brown wire splices to the tail wire. The white wire is the ground wire. The specific function of each wire depends on your vehicle's wiring type.
Locate a suitable grounding point near the taillight connector, such as an existing screw with nut in the vehicle frame. If no suitable point exists, drill a 3/32" pilot hole. The area should be free of rust, dirt, and paint. Secure the white ground wire using the ring terminal and the provided screw.
Heat shrink is used to seal wire connections off from potential corrosion. After splicing the harness wires to the vehicle's taillight wires, use a heat gun to heat the shrink-wrap to seal the connections. Unused wires (such as the green and yellow wires in a two-wire system) should also be closed with heat shrink.
Route the 4-flat connector above any moving or hot parts such as the suspension, driveline, or exhaust. Use the provided cable ties to loosely secure the wires until the harness is completely routed to the front of the vehicle. Once routing is complete, tighten all cable tie connections.
Before drilling, check for miscellaneous items that may be hidden behind or under any surface to avoid damage and personal injury. This is especially important when drilling the ground screw pilot hole or floor pan grommet hole.
The manual does not specify a weight or load rating for the product. It only states that you must not exceed the product rating or the tow vehicle lamp load rating, whichever is lower. Contact Curt Manufacturing or check the product specifications for the exact rating.
Test the functionality of the harness with a vehicle with working trailer lights. Alternatively, you can use a test light to verify proper function. Ensure all brake, turn signal, and tail light functions work correctly before considering the installation complete.
After testing, secure any loose wires with the provided cable ties. Reinstall all items removed during installation. If the negative battery terminal was disconnected at the beginning, reconnect it.
Periodic inspection of all wires and connections should be performed to ensure there is no visible damage or loose connections. This will help maintain proper function and prevent electrical issues.
The Curt 58979 works with SUVs, vans, passenger cars, and trucks with two-wire or three-wire taillight systems. Locate your vehicle's taillight wires using the wiring location guide on page 1 (S for SUVs/vans, P for passenger cars, T for trucks) and determine your wiring type by probing the connectors as described in the manual.
You will need a ratchet, Phillips and flathead screwdrivers, cutting tool, wire crimper, wire stripper, trim panel removal tool, socket and extensions, drill with a 3/32" bit, heat gun, and a test light or probe. A fish wire (made from wire hanger, stiff wire, rope, or string) may also be needed.
Yes, you must disconnect the negative battery terminal before beginning installation and fasten it away from the battery. Reconnect it only after all wiring is complete and tested.
Drilling is required in two cases: (1) a 3/32" pilot hole for the ground screw if no existing screw is available near the taillight connector, and (2) a hole in the floor pan grommet if one does not already exist. Before drilling, check for hidden items behind or under surfaces to avoid damage.
Determine your vehicle's wiring type (two-wire or three-wire) by probing the taillight connectors with a multimeter or test light. For two-wire systems, splice red to brake/turn and brown to tail. For three-wire systems, splice green to right turn, red to brake, yellow to left turn, and brown to tail. Strip 5/16" of coating before crimping.
Perform periodic inspection of all wires and connections to ensure there is no visible damage or loose connections.
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