Reese Weight Distribution Kit, 12,000 lbs. Capacity, Without ShankReeseOriginal price was $740.00. Current price is $738.03.In Stock
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This is the ultimate hitch in detail and design. No other hitch gives the driver the control this one does at a reasonable price. The Straight-Line Hitch consist of our patented Dual Cam High-Performance Sway Control and our High Performance Weight Distributing System in one easy-to-install package.
The Strait-Line Hitch was given this name as its pro-active design literally forces the trailer to stay in a straight line behind the tow vehicle. Sway is controlled by the Dual Cam High-Performance System. The stronger the sway force, the more the Dual Cam System works to stop it.
The Strait-Line Hitch combines weight distributing with the best proven pro-active sway control system available in a newly-designed, easy-to-install kit.
| BRAND: | REESE |
| PART NUMBER: | 66074 |
| WARRANTY: | LIMITED LIFETIME WARRANTY |
| WEIGHT: | 89.5 LBS |
| CAPACITY: | 12,000 LBS. |
| GROSS TONGUE WEIGHT: | 1,200 LBS. |
| INCLUDES SWAY CONTROL: | NO |
| UNIVERSAL OR SPECIFIC FIT: | UNIVERSAL |
| LENGTH: | 31 IN. |
| SAFETY CHAINS INCLUDED: | NO |
| MATERIAL: | STEEL |
| MOUNTING HARDWARE INCLUDED: | YES |
| ADJUSTABLE ARMS: | YES |
| MOUNTING BRACKET POSITION: | 28 IN. |
| COLOR: | BLACK |
| BOLT GRADE: | GRADE 5 NUT & GRADE 8 BOLT |
Reese has designed towing equipment since 1952 and remains a benchmark for heavy-duty towing. The line covers fifth wheel hitches such as the modular M5, gooseneck couplers including the Goose Box, air-ride and short-bed pin boxes, weight distribution systems with active sway control, and the accessories that connect them, all built to exceed published industry standards.
Reese has been pioneering towing performance since 1952, when Margaret Reese asked her husband TJ to stop travel trailers rocking every time somebody walked through them. His answer, the first pair of stabilising jacks, was simple and effective enough to change the RV industry. From that starting point Reese grew into a designer and manufacturer of complete towing systems, and today it anchors the heavy-duty end of the Horizon Global towing portfolio.
Fifth wheel towing is where the brand's engineering is most visible. The M5 fifth wheel hitch uses a modular design that breaks into manageable sections for assembly, with a wider stance, tighter tolerances and a shock absorption system aimed at the jolts that travel up through a truck bed. For owners who would rather tow from a gooseneck coupler and keep the bed clear, the Goose Box 20K replaces the trailer's king pin with a gooseneck connection carrying its own air-ride cushioning.
Pin boxes are a Reese speciality. The 5th Airborne uses air-ride technology to dampen road shock and reduce the chucking motion that makes fifth wheel towing tiring, while the Sidewinder was designed for short-bed pickups, pivoting the connection point so the trailer can turn sharply without the front cap meeting the cab.
For conventional towing, Reese weight distribution systems restore load to the tow vehicle's front axle and control sway. The Pro Round Bar distributes weight evenly while damping sway, and the Pro Dual Cam II uses active cam-based sway control that works harder the stronger the sway force becomes. Complete kits pair bars, head and shank to a rated tongue weight, and dedicated sway control kits can be added to existing setups. The products suit RV owners, horse and livestock haulers and anyone towing near the upper end of a vehicle's rating.
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A trunnion-style weight distributing hitch is a system that transfers tongue weight from the towing vehicle's rear axle to both the front and rear axles, improving stability and braking. It uses spring bars with trunnions (pivot pins) that insert into sockets on a ballmount head. As the trailer is loaded, the spring bars flex and distribute the weight across the towing vehicle, helping to maintain level ride height and traction.
The three most common hitch ball sizes are 1-7/8", 2", and 2-5/16". Select a ball with a 1-1/4" or 1" threaded shank that is V-5 rated and equal to or greater than your trailer's gross vehicle weight rating (GVWR). If using a 1" shank ball, use bushing 58184 to reduce the ballmount hole size to 1".
Raised balls usually have reduced load ratings. Your ball rating must equal or exceed your trailer's GVWR. If you use a raised ball, verify its rating meets or exceeds your trailer's GVWR before installation.
Extended bumper guards, pickup truck caps, or rear-mounted spare tires can limit turn angles unless a longer hitch bar is used. Individual hitch bars (part D) are available in various sizes. Consult with the manufacturer or your installer to determine if a longer bar is required for your specific vehicle and trailer configuration.
If your trailer has a straight tongue instead of an A-frame tongue, you will need to use a pole tongue adapter. This adapter attaches to the trailer tongue and provides a place to attach the snap-up brackets.
Yes. Some surge brakes will not work with weight distributing hitches. Check with your brake manufacturer before installation. Additionally, do not use sway control with surge brakes.
No. Do not attempt to tow any type of trailer behind another trailer. Towing multiple trailers may cause severe instability, loss of control, and/or structural failure, and may result in vehicle accident, property damage, and personal injury. Towing multiple trailers is illegal in many jurisdictions.
No. Do not attempt to hook up or tow with rear wheels of a front-wheel-drive towing vehicle removed. Severe structural damage to the towing vehicle, hitch, and trailer may result. A towing vehicle/trailer combination cannot be controlled adequately unless the towing vehicle's rear wheels are carrying their share of the load.
Yes. For vehicles with air springs, air shocks, or automatic leveling systems, check your vehicle owner's manual. Unless otherwise specified, level the vehicle with the vehicle loaded as it will be when towing before setting ball height and attaching the trailer.
A torque wrench is required to properly tighten the hitch ball nut and high-performance ballmount nuts to specification. For snap-up bracket installation, you will need drill bits in 7/16", 9/16", and 1/4" sizes. A wrench is needed to tighten the snap-up bracket bolts. A jack is required to raise the trailer tongue and vehicle during initial hook-up adjustment.
The kit includes a ballmount (G), hitch bar (D, not in all kits), high-performance ballmount components (3/4" bolt J, serrated washers E, lock washer L, nuts K), optional shim kit, snap-up brackets, chains with U-bolts, flat washers, and locknuts. A bushing (58184, part B, not in all kits) is available separately if you need to use a 1" shank ball. Self-tapping screws for snap-up bracket installation are available in service kit 58459 if needed.
Yes. The hitch ball is not included in the kit. You must select and purchase a ball separately that matches your trailer coupler size (1-7/8", 2", or 2-5/16") and is V-5 rated with a 1-1/4" or 1" threaded shank equal to or greater than your trailer's GVWR.
The optional shim kit is used to fill any gap between the weight distributing head assembly and the hitch bar in your particular application. It is easier to install the shim from the top down. Depending on your setup, you may use the entire shim, discard it if it does not fit, or cut it in half and use only the top half for the top bolt. In rare cases, two shims may be needed; contact Customer Service at 800-632-3290 or 800-428-7303 for a free additional shim service kit 58207.
1. Line up your tow vehicle and trailer on level pavement in a straight-ahead position, uncoupled. 2. Level the trailer and measure the distance from the ground to the top of the ball socket (X dimension). 3. The ball height should be greater than the coupler height (measured in step 2) by approximately 3/4" to 1" to compensate for vehicle squat when loaded. For vehicles with air springs, air shocks, or automatic leveling systems, check your vehicle owner's manual and level the vehicle loaded as it will be when towing before setting ball height.
The spring bar height (Y) is the distance from the ground to the end of the spring bar when it is positioned at the correct angle. Use the table provided in the manual: for coupler heights of 7"-11" and spring bar heights of 15"-26", the Y dimension varies by coupler style (A, B, or C). For non-integrated cam spring bars, add 1" to the Y dimension. Insert the spring bar and trunnion into the ballmount, swing the bar outward to the same angle as when connected to the trailer, lift up to remove slack, and tilt the ballmount to achieve the proper Y dimension at the end of the spring bar.
The ballmount (G) is adjustable through a 15° angle range for proper spring bar adjustment. This allows you to fine-tune the height and angle to match your specific trailer coupler height and spring bar configuration.
Unless otherwise specified by the ball manufacturer, torque the ball nut to 450 ft/lbs for a 1-1/4" nut or 250 ft/lbs for a 1" nut. Always use a lock washer and place the washer next to the nut.
Torque the two nuts (K) on the high-performance ballmount to 300 ft/lbs. If a proper torque wrench is not available, torque the nuts to 150 ft/lbs and then turn the nuts an additional 1/4 turn. Do not lubricate the threads.
Tighten the 1/2" self-tapping screw to 50 ft/lbs. After tightening the self-tapping screw, re-tighten the 1/2" set screw on the inside of the frame by turning only 1/4 to 1/2 of a turn after making contact with the frame.
Turn the 1/2" x 3-1/2" bolt until it contacts the frame, then tighten 1/4 turn with a wrench. Do not overtighten.
Yes. If your snap-up bracket does not already have a hole in the required location, you must drill a 9/16" hole in the bracket 2-1/4" above the arc. You will also need to drill a pilot hole in the trailer frame using a 1/4" drill bit, then enlarge it to 7/16". The drilling sequence is: 9/16" bit (to mark the frame), 1/4" bit (pilot hole), then 7/16" bit (final hole). A 1/2" self-tapping screw is then installed and torqued to 50 ft/lbs.
Yes. If the shim will not go in far enough to reach the bottom hole, cut the shim in half and use only the top half for the top bolt. Discard the bottom half of the shim.
1. Select a hitch ball with a diameter matching your trailer coupler size (1-7/8", 2", or 2-5/16"). 2. Ensure the ball is V-5 rated with a 1-1/4" or 1" threaded shank equal to or greater than your trailer's GVWR. 3. Attach the ball to the ballmount (G). 4. If using a 1" shank ball, use bushing 58184 to reduce the ballmount hole size to 1". 5. Always use a lock washer and place it next to the nut. 6. Torque the ball nut to 450 ft/lbs for a 1-1/4" nut or 250 ft/lbs for a 1" nut.
1. Insert the hitch bar (D) into the hitch box and install a pull pin. 2. Place the ballmount (G) onto the hitch bar. 3. Move the ballmount up or down to achieve the proper ball height (approximately 3/4" to 1" higher than the uncoupled coupler height to compensate for vehicle squat). 4. The hitch bar may be used in either the up or down position. 5. For vehicles with air springs, air shocks, or automatic leveling systems, check your vehicle owner's manual and level the vehicle loaded as it will be when towing before finalizing the ball height.
1. Install hardware in the lower hole of the ballmount and tighten the nut enough to prevent easy rotation. 2. Determine the spring bar height (Y) using the table provided (based on coupler height and style). 3. Insert the spring bar and trunnion into the ballmount. 4. Swing the bar outward to the same angle as when connected to the trailer. 5. Lift up on the bar to remove slack. 6. Tilt the ballmount to achieve the proper Y dimension at the end of the spring bar. The ballmount is adjustable through a 15° angle range.
1. Install the longer 3/4" bolt (J) with two serrated washers (E) as shown in the diagram. 2. Install the lock washer (L) and nut (K), but allow space for the washers to be positioned and aligned. 3. Align the washers so the teeth are parallel to the teeth on the ballmount, with an equal number of teeth showing at the top and bottom. 4. Hold the washers in position and tighten the nut. 5. Torque the two nuts (K) to 300 ft/lbs. If a proper torque wrench is not available, torque to 150 ft/lbs and then turn an additional 1/4 turn. 6. Do not lubricate the threads. 7. Re-check washer alignment after the nut is tightened to ensure teeth are properly aligned.
Attach chains to the spring bars using U-bolts, flat washers, and locknuts. Let 2-3 threads protrude below the locknut. Ensure the chain does not bind. The manual shows two configurations: standard spring bar and integrated cam spring bar.
1. Using the tongue jack, lower the coupler onto the ball. 2. Close the coupler latch to secure the connection.
1. Hold the spring bar away from you with the trunnion ribbed side up. 2. Set the bottom knob of the trunnion into the lower socket of the ballmount (G). 3. Slide the knob into the top slot of the ballmount. 4. The spring bars will fit on either side as they are not made right or left handed.
1. Position the snap-up brackets on the trailer A-frame so that the chain at the end of the spring bar is approximately vertical. 2. Turn the 1/2" x 3-1/2" bolt until it contacts the frame. 3. Then tighten 1/4 turn with a wrench. Do not overtighten.
1. Raise the trailer tongue and rear of the vehicle with a jack. 2. Lower the yoke of the snap-up bracket until it is parallel with the ground. 3. Slip the closest link over the hook. If there are fewer than 5 links between the hook and U-bolt, adjust the ballmount angle rearward and repeat the procedure. 4. With the snap-up bracket handle over the yoke, raise until the yoke has passed over-center. 5. Slide the safety pin through the small hole to lock the yoke in place. 6. Repeat for the other side.
1. Lower the jack. 2. Re-measure the front wheel well reference point (measured before connecting the trailer). 3. The front wheel well height should be equal to the original measurement. 4. If the front wheel well is higher than originally measured, reduce the number of links between the yoke hook and spring bar (minimum 4 links) and recheck. 5. If the front wheel well is lower than originally measured, increase the number of chain links and recheck. 6. If the original wheel well height is not achievable, it is preferred that the wheel well height be lower after the spring bars are loaded. 7. If no more chain links are available for adjustment, the head assembly must be tilted forward: uncouple the trailer, remove the upper bolt from the head assembly, pivot the head up as needed, reassemble, and recheck the wheel well height.
FALR stands for Front Axle Load Return. 100% FALR means the front fender is returned to the preload position (the height before the trailer was connected). This is the manufacturer's recommendation for best performance.
After connecting the trailer, perform these checks: 1. Verify the trailer is level. If not, re-adjust the ballmount angle and/or position. 2. Check that there is room for the bar and chain to move when turning a corner. 3. Verify the front wheel well height matches the original measurement (or is lower if full adjustment is not possible).
Always hook up trailer lights, turn signals, electric brakes, and break-away switch connection (if equipped) even for short trips. Verify all electrical hookups are in working order before towing.
Loaded ball height should never be greater than uncoupled ball height. If the loaded ball height is greater than the uncoupled height, front wheel overload and loss of rear wheel traction can result, leading to unstable handling, reduced braking ability, and a tendency to jackknife when turning and braking at the same time. If this occurs, reduce the take-up on spring bar chains and re-measure until proper height is obtained.
No. Trailers should not be occupied while being towed, under any circumstances.
If any part of your towing system bottoms out or if you suspect damage may have occurred in any other way, pull over and make a thorough inspection. Correct any problems before resuming travel.
Tongue weight should be about 10-15 percent of the gross trailer weight for most trailers. Too low a percentage of tongue weight will often produce a tendency to sway. Excess weight on the tongue can also lead to sway and damage the hitch and/or tow vehicle.
A sway control can help minimize the effects of sudden maneuvers, wind gusts, and buffeting caused by other vehicles. Use of a sway control is recommended for trailers with large surface areas, such as travel trailers. However, do not use sway control with surge brakes.
Unless specified otherwise by the towing vehicle or trailer manufacturer, tires should be inflated to their maximum recommended pressure.
Trunnions should be lubricated each towing day. When hooking up, place one drop of oil on the top and a second drop on the forward side of the upper trunnion. Place a third drop on the rear side of the lower trunnion before inserting the trunnion into the ballmount. Use a heavy oil or grease. It is not necessary to unhook the spring bars, as there are two oil holes in the ballmount top plate for upper trunnion lubrication. Lubricate lower trunnions with one drop at the contact point between trunnion and lower socket. Also lubricate the hitch ball with one or two drops.
At the beginning of every towing day: 1. Add a drop of oil at trunnion contact areas with the ballmount. 2. Clean the ball and coupler socket and coat the ball lightly with grease. 3. Check spring bar chains and U-bolts for wear. Replace before they become worn halfway through. 4. Check that all bolts are properly tightened and the hitch pin and clip are securely in place. 5. Check that electrical hookups are in working order and that safety chains are connected.
Keep trunnions and sockets in the head assembly free of dirt and well lubricated. Excessive wear in this area may indicate overload or inadequate lubrication. Some elongation of socket openings (seat-in) is normal. Keep the head assembly exterior clean, especially the trunnion sockets. Do not allow dirt or stones to lodge between trunnions and the head. Keep the hitch painted to prevent rust and maintain a good appearance. Do not paint over labels.
Yes. Remove the hitch from the towing vehicle receiver when not towing to: 1. Prevent contamination of head sockets. 2. Reduce the chance of striking the hitch on driveway ramps or other objects. 3. Minimize damage in the event of a rear-end collision.
Excess oil, dirt, and grit should be wiped out whenever the trailer is uncoupled. Keep the head assembly exterior clean, especially the trunnion sockets, and do not allow dirt or stones to lodge between trunnions and the head.
After initial installation, verify: 1. The front wheel well height matches the original measurement (or is lower if full adjustment is not possible). 2. The trailer is level. If not, re-adjust the ballmount angle and/or position. 3. There is room for the bar and chain to move when turning a corner. 4. All bolts are properly tightened. 5. The hitch pin and clip are securely in place. 6. Electrical hookups are in working order. 7. Safety chains are connected.
This trunnion-style weight distributing hitch works with trailers that have A-frame or integrated cam spring bars. It accepts hitch balls in 1-7/8", 2", or 2-5/16" sizes. For straight-tongue trailers, you will need a pole tongue adapter. Check your trailer's coupler size and spring bar type to confirm compatibility.
You must purchase a hitch ball separately (1-7/8", 2", or 2-5/16" diameter, V-5 rated, matching your trailer coupler). If using a 1" shank ball, you may need bushing 58184. For snap-up bracket installation, you need a torque wrench and drill bits (7/16", 9/16", 1/4").
Drilling is required only for snap-up bracket installation on the trailer frame. You must drill a 9/16" hole in the bracket and a 7/16" hole in the trailer frame. The hitch head installation on the vehicle does not require drilling.
Hitch ball nut: 450 ft/lbs (1-1/4" shank) or 250 ft/lbs (1" shank). High-performance ballmount nuts: 300 ft/lbs (or 150 ft/lbs plus 1/4 turn if torque wrench unavailable). Snap-up bracket self-tapping screw: 50 ft/lbs. Snap-up bracket bolt: tighten until contact, then 1/4 turn only.
Loaded ball height must never exceed uncoupled ball height. If it does, you risk front-wheel overload, loss of rear traction, instability, reduced braking, and jackknifing. Adjust chain links to correct this before towing.
Lubricate trunnions with one drop of oil each. Clean and grease the hitch ball. Check chains and U-bolts for wear. Verify all bolts are tight, hitch pin is secure, electrical connections work, and safety chains are attached.
Reduce the number of chain links between the yoke hook and spring bar (minimum 4 links) and recheck the wheel well measurement. If the height is still too high, continue reducing links until the original height is achieved or the height becomes lower than the original measurement.
Increase the number of chain links between the yoke hook and spring bar and recheck the wheel well measurement. Continue adjusting until the original height is achieved. If the original height is not achievable and no more chain links are available, the head assembly must be tilted forward: uncouple the trailer, remove the upper bolt from the head assembly, pivot the head up as needed, reassemble, and recheck.
If the serrated washer teeth are not parallel to the ballmount teeth, or if an unequal number of teeth show at the top and bottom, the teeth can be stripped when loaded. Always re-check washer alignment after tightening the nut to ensure equal numbers of teeth are visible at top and bottom.
If the shim will not begin to fit between the head and hitch bar, discard the shim and continue installation. The existing gap is acceptable.
If the shim goes all the way down to line up with the bottom hole, use the entire shim in the gap. In rare cases where two shims are needed, contact Customer Service at 800-632-3290 or 800-428-7303 for a free additional shim service kit 58207.
If the shim will not go in far enough to reach the bottom hole, cut the shim in half and use only the top half for the top bolt. Discard the bottom half of the shim.
If there are fewer than 5 links between the hook and U-bolt, adjust the ballmount angle rearward and repeat the snap-up bracket positioning procedure. This will increase the number of available chain links.
If the trailer is not level after connecting, you may need to re-adjust the ballmount angle and/or position. Check the front wheel well height measurement and adjust chain links as needed to achieve proper weight distribution.
Check that there is adequate clearance for the bar and chain to move when turning a corner. If clearance is insufficient, you may need to use a longer hitch bar (part D) or adjust the snap-up bracket position on the trailer frame.
Excessive wear on the trunnions and sockets may indicate overload or inadequate lubrication. Ensure you are lubricating the trunnions with one drop of oil each towing day. If wear continues despite proper lubrication, the hitch may be overloaded beyond its capacity.
Sam
Ordered online. Shipment arrived on time and with all the correct parts. Great customer service and friendly staff. Also, pricing was great!
May 22, 2023
