Reese Weight Distribution Kit, 12,000 lbs. Capacity, Without ShankReeseOriginal price was $740.00. Current price is $738.03.In Stock
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Reese has combined the best of the features from all of our weight distributing kits to create the High-Performance Trunnion Kit. It includes a head design with superior strength and easy adjustment.
| BRAND: | REESE |
| PART NUMBER: | 66542 |
| WARRANTY: | LIMITED LIFETIME WARRANTY |
| WEIGHT: | 74 LBS |
| CAPACITY: | 12,000 LBS. |
| GROSS TONGUE WEIGHT: | 1,200 LBS. |
| INCLUDES SWAY CONTROL: | NO |
| UNIVERSAL OR SPECIFIC FIT: | UNIVERSAL |
| LENGTH: | 35 IN. |
| SAFETY CHAINS INCLUDED: | NO |
| MATERIAL: | STEEL |
| MOUNTING HARDWARE INCLUDED: | YES |
| ADJUSTABLE ARMS: | YES |
| MOUNTING BRACKET POSITION: | 28 IN. |
| COLOR: | BLACK |
| BOLT GRADE: | GRADE 5 NUT & GRADE 8 BOLT |
Reese has designed towing equipment since 1952 and remains a benchmark for heavy-duty towing. The line covers fifth wheel hitches such as the modular M5, gooseneck couplers including the Goose Box, air-ride and short-bed pin boxes, weight distribution systems with active sway control, and the accessories that connect them, all built to exceed published industry standards.
Reese has been pioneering towing performance since 1952, when Margaret Reese asked her husband TJ to stop travel trailers rocking every time somebody walked through them. His answer, the first pair of stabilising jacks, was simple and effective enough to change the RV industry. From that starting point Reese grew into a designer and manufacturer of complete towing systems, and today it anchors the heavy-duty end of the Horizon Global towing portfolio.
Fifth wheel towing is where the brand's engineering is most visible. The M5 fifth wheel hitch uses a modular design that breaks into manageable sections for assembly, with a wider stance, tighter tolerances and a shock absorption system aimed at the jolts that travel up through a truck bed. For owners who would rather tow from a gooseneck coupler and keep the bed clear, the Goose Box 20K replaces the trailer's king pin with a gooseneck connection carrying its own air-ride cushioning.
Pin boxes are a Reese speciality. The 5th Airborne uses air-ride technology to dampen road shock and reduce the chucking motion that makes fifth wheel towing tiring, while the Sidewinder was designed for short-bed pickups, pivoting the connection point so the trailer can turn sharply without the front cap meeting the cab.
For conventional towing, Reese weight distribution systems restore load to the tow vehicle's front axle and control sway. The Pro Round Bar distributes weight evenly while damping sway, and the Pro Dual Cam II uses active cam-based sway control that works harder the stronger the sway force becomes. Complete kits pair bars, head and shank to a rated tongue weight, and dedicated sway control kits can be added to existing setups. The products suit RV owners, horse and livestock haulers and anyone towing near the upper end of a vehicle's rating.
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Reese® and Pro Series™ Weight Distribution & Sway Control Hitches
A trunnion style weight distributing hitch kit transfers tongue weight from the trailer to both the towing vehicle's rear axle and front axle, improving stability and braking. The kit includes a ballmount (G) with upper and lower trunnion sockets, spring bars that attach to the trailer frame via snap-up brackets, and chains that connect the spring bars to the ballmount. When the trailer is loaded, the spring bars pivot in the trunnion sockets and the chains tighten, distributing the load across the vehicle's axles.
The kit accepts hitch balls with three common coupler sizes: 1-7/8", 2", and 2-5/16". The ball must have a 1-1/4" or 1" threaded shank and be V-5 rated with a capacity equal to or greater than your trailer's gross vehicle weight rating (GVWR). If you must use a 1" shank ball, use bushing 58184 (B) to reduce the ballmount hole size to 1".
Yes, but you must check your vehicle's owner manual first. Unless otherwise specified, level the vehicle with it loaded as it will be when towing before setting ball height and attaching the trailer.
Some surge brakes are not compatible with weight distributing hitches. Check with your trailer's brake manufacturer before installation. Do not use sway control with surge brakes.
If your trailer has a pole tongue (straight tongue) instead of an A-frame, you will need to use a pole tongue adapter. This adapter attaches to the trailer tongue and provides attachment points for the snap-up brackets.
For the main hitch installation, you will need a wrench to tighten the hitch ball nut and a torque wrench. For the snap-up bracket installation, you will need drill bits in sizes 7/16", 9/16", and 1/4". A jack is required to raise the trailer tongue and vehicle during initial hook-up adjustment.
The kit includes the ballmount (G), hitch bar (D, not in all kits), bushing 58184 (B, not in all kits), spring bars with trunnions, snap-up brackets, chains, U-bolts, flat washers, and locknuts. For the hitch ball attachment, standard 1-1/4" shank balls come with lock washers and nuts; if using a 1" shank ball, you must use bushing 58184. The snap-up bracket installation requires 1/2" x 3-1/2" bolts and 1/2" self-tapping screws (available in service kit 58459 if needed). You must supply the hitch ball itself, matching your trailer coupler size.
1. Line up the tow vehicle and trailer on level pavement in a straight-ahead position, uncoupled. 2. Level the trailer and measure the distance from the ground to the top of the ball socket (X dimension). 3. The ball height should be greater than the coupler height by approximately 3/4" to 1" to compensate for vehicle squat when loaded. 4. If your vehicle has air springs, air shocks, or automatic leveling, check the vehicle owner manual and level the vehicle with it loaded as it will be when towing before setting ball height.
The spring bar height (Y) is the distance from the ground to the top of the spring bar when it is inserted into the ballmount at the proper angle. Use the table provided in the manual: for coupler heights of 7"-11" and spring bar heights of 15"-26", the Y dimension ranges from 4-1/2" to 9-1/2" depending on coupler style (A, B, or C). For non-integrated cam spring bars, add 1" to the Y dimension. Insert the spring bar and trunnion into the ballmount, swing the bar outward to the same angle as when connected to the trailer, lift up to remove slack, and tilt the ballmount to achieve the proper Y dimension at the end of the spring bar.
Yes. The hitch bar (D) may be used in either the up or down position. Some installations may require a longer hitch bar if extended bumper guards, pickup truck caps, or rear-mounted spare tires limit turn angles.
1. Select a hitch ball with a diameter matching your trailer coupler size (1-7/8", 2", or 2-5/16") and a V-5 rating equal to or greater than your trailer GVWR. 2. If using a 1-1/4" shank, the ball comes with lock washers and nuts; if using a 1" shank, use bushing 58184 (B) to reduce the ballmount hole to 1". 3. Always use a lock washer and place it next to the nut. 4. Torque the ball nut to 450 ft/lbs for a 1-1/4" nut or 250 ft/lbs for a 1" nut, unless the ball manufacturer specifies otherwise.
The ballmount (G) is adjustable through a 15° angle range. Install hardware in the lower hole of the ballmount and tighten the nut enough to prevent easy rotation. Insert the spring bar and trunnion into the ballmount, swing the bar outward to the same angle as when connected to the trailer, lift up to remove slack, and tilt the ballmount to achieve the proper Y dimension at the end of the spring bar. Refer to the spring bar height table to determine the correct Y dimension for your coupler height and spring bar height.
1. Install the longer 3/4" bolt (J) with two serrated washers (E) as shown in the manual. 2. Install the lock washer (L) and nut (K), but allow space for the washers to be positioned and aligned. 3. Align the washers so the teeth are parallel to the ballmount teeth, with an equal number of teeth showing at the top and bottom. 4. Hold the washers in position and tighten the nut. 5. Torque both nuts (K) to 300 ft/lbs. If a proper torque wrench is not available, torque the nuts to 150 ft/lbs and then turn an additional 1/4 turn. 6. Do not lubricate the threads. 7. Re-check washer alignment after the nut is tightened.
Use the shim to fill any gap between the weight distributing head and the hitch bar. Install it from top down. You will encounter one of three scenarios: (1) The shim goes all the way down to line up with the bottom hole—use the entire shim. In rare cases, two shims may be needed; contact Customer Service at 800-632-3290 or 800-428-7303 for a free additional shim kit 58207. (2) The shim does not fit between the head and hitch bar—discard it; the existing gap is acceptable. (3) The shim does not go far enough to reach the bottom hole—cut it in half and use only the top half for the top bolt; discard the bottom half.
1. Attach chains to the spring bars using U-bolts, flat washers, and locknuts, leaving 2-3 threads protruding below the locknut. The chain must not bind. 2. Using the tongue jack, lower the coupler onto the ball and close the coupler latch. 3. Hold the spring bar away from you with the trunnion ribbed side up. Set the bottom knob of the trunnion into the lower socket of the ballmount (G) and slide the knob into the top slot. 4. Position the snap-up brackets on the trailer A-frame so the chain at the end of the spring bar is approximately vertical. 5. Turn the 1/2" x 3-1/2" bolt until it contacts the frame, then tighten 1/4 turn with a wrench. Do not overtighten. 6. Raise the trailer tongue and rear of the vehicle with a jack. 7. Lower the yoke of the snap-up bracket until it is parallel with the ground and slip the closest link over the hook (if fewer than 5 links exist between hook and U-bolt, adjust the ballmount angle rearward and repeat). 8. With the snap-up bracket handle over the yoke, raise until the yoke has passed over-center. 9. Slide the safety pin through the small hole to lock the yoke in place. 10. Repeat for the other side.
1. Before final leveling, pick reference points on the front wheel well and measure the distance to the pavement. 2. After attaching the trailer and raising the snap-up brackets over-center, lower the jack and re-measure the front wheel well height. 3. The front wheel well height should be equal to the original measurement. 4. If the front wheel well is higher than originally measured, reduce the number of links between the yoke hook and spring bar (minimum 4 links) and recheck. 5. If the front wheel well is lower than originally measured, increase the number of chain links and recheck. 6. If the original height is not achievable, it is preferred that the wheel well height be lower after the spring bars are loaded. 7. If no more chain links are available for adjustment, the head assembly must be tilted forward: uncoupled the trailer, remove the upper bolt from the head assembly, pivot the head up as needed, reassemble, and recheck the wheel well height.
FALR stands for Front Axle Load Return. 100% FALR means the front fender is returned to the preload position. This is the manufacturer's recommendation for best performance.
Yes. If your snap-up bracket does not already have a hole in the specified location, you must drill one. The procedure is: (1) Mark the hole location 2-1/4" above the arc in the bracket, centered left to right. (2) Drill a 9/16" hole in the bracket before placing it on the frame. (3) Place the bracket in the correct position on the trailer frame. (4) Using the bracket hole as a guide, drill a 1/4" pilot hole into the frame, staying centered. (5) One method to stay centered is to use the 9/16" drill bit first to make a small dimple in the frame, then finish with the 1/4" bit and then the 7/16" bit for the final hole. (6) Install the 1/2" self-tapping screw into the bracket and frame hole.
Torque the hitch ball nut to 450 ft/lbs for a 1-1/4" nut or 250 ft/lbs for a 1" nut, unless the ball manufacturer specifies otherwise. Always use a lock washer and place it next to the nut.
Torque both nuts (K) on the high-performance ballmount to 300 ft/lbs. If a proper torque wrench is not available, torque the nuts to 150 ft/lbs and then turn an additional 1/4 turn. Do not lubricate the threads.
Torque the 1/2" self-tapping screw to 50 ft/lbs. After tightening the screw, re-tighten the 1/2" set screw on the inside of the frame by turning only 1/4 to 1/2 turn after making contact with the frame.
Tighten the nut in the lower hole of the ballmount enough to prevent easy rotation of the ballmount. This is not a final torque specification but rather a snug fit to hold the ballmount in position during adjustment.
Turn the 1/2" x 3-1/2" bolt until it contacts the frame, then tighten 1/4 turn with a wrench. Do not overtighten.
Loaded ball height must never be greater than uncoupled ball height. If it is, front wheel overload and loss of rear wheel traction can result, leading to unstable handling, reduced braking ability, and a tendency to jackknife when turning and braking at the same time. If loaded ball height is greater than uncoupled height, reduce the take-up on spring bar chains and re-measure until proper height is obtained.
No. Do not attempt to tow any type of trailer behind another trailer. Towing multiple trailers may cause severe instability, loss of control, and/or structural failure, and may result in vehicle accident, property damage, and personal injury. Towing multiple trailers is illegal in many jurisdictions.
No. Do not attempt to hook up or tow with the rear wheels of a front-wheel-drive towing vehicle removed. Severe structural damage to the towing vehicle, hitch, and trailer may result. A towing vehicle/trailer combination cannot be controlled adequately unless the towing vehicle's rear wheels are carrying their share of the load.
At the beginning of every towing day: (1) Add a drop of oil at trunnion contact areas with the ballmount. (2) Clean the ball and coupler socket and coat the ball lightly with grease. (3) Check spring bar chains and U-bolts for wear; replace before they become worn halfway through. (4) Check that all bolts are properly tightened and the hitch pin and clip are securely in place. (5) Check that electrical hookups are in working order and that safety chains are connected.
If any part of your towing system bottoms out or if you suspect damage may have occurred in any other way, pull over and make a thorough inspection. Correct any problems before resuming travel. Severe bumps and badly undulating roads can damage your towing vehicle, hitch, and trailer and should be negotiated at a slow steady speed.
Yes. Remove the hitch from the towing vehicle receiver when not towing to prevent contamination of the head sockets, reduce the chance of striking the hitch on driveway ramps or other objects, and minimize damage in the event of a rear-end collision.
Lubricate the ballmount sockets and spring bar trunnions to prevent rapid wear. When hooking up, place one drop of oil on the top and a second drop on the forward side of the upper trunnion. Place a third drop on the rear side of the lower trunnion before inserting the trunnion into the ballmount. Use heavy oil or grease. Also lubricate the hitch ball with one or two drops. Trunnions should be lubricated each towing day. It is not necessary to unhook the spring bars, as there are two oil holes in the ballmount top plate for upper trunnion lubrication. Lubricate lower trunnions with one drop at the contact point between trunnion and lower socket. Excess oil, dirt, and grit should be wiped out whenever the trailer is uncoupled.
Keep trunnions and sockets in the head assembly free of dirt and well lubricated. Excessive wear in this area may indicate overload or inadequate lubrication. Some elongation of socket openings (seat-in) is normal. Keep the head assembly exterior clean, especially the trunnion sockets. Do not allow dirt or stones to lodge between trunnions and the head. Keep the hitch painted to prevent rust and maintain a good appearance. Do not paint over labels.
Proper trailer loading is important. Heavy items should be placed close to the floor near the trailer axle. The load should be balanced side-to-side and firmly secured to prevent shifting. Tongue weight should be about 10-15 percent of the gross trailer weight for most trailers. Too low a percentage of tongue weight will often produce a tendency to sway. Excess weight on the tongue can also lead to sway and damage the hitch and/or tow vehicle.
A sway control can help minimize the effects of sudden maneuvers, wind gusts, and buffeting caused by other vehicles. Use of a sway control is recommended for trailers with large surface areas, such as travel trailers. However, do not use sway control with surge brakes.
Unless specified otherwise by the towing vehicle or trailer manufacturer, tires should be inflated to their maximum recommended pressure.
Yes. Always hook up trailer lights, turn signals, electric brakes, and break-away switch connection (if equipped) even for short trips.
No. Trailers should not be occupied while being towed, under any circumstances.
This kit works with trailers that have A-frame tongues and couplers sized 1-7/8", 2", or 2-5/16". If your trailer has a straight (pole) tongue, you will need a pole tongue adapter. Check your vehicle owner manual if you have air springs, air shocks, or automatic leveling. Some surge brakes are incompatible; verify with your brake manufacturer.
You will need a wrench, a torque wrench (or the ability to turn nuts 1/4 turn after reaching 150 ft/lbs), a jack, and drill bits (7/16", 9/16", 1/4") for the snap-up bracket installation.
Yes. You must drill a hole in the snap-up bracket (if not already present) and into the trailer frame to install the additional bolt. The hole is located 2-1/4" above the arc in the bracket. Drill bits needed: 7/16", 9/16", and 1/4".
Hitch ball nut: 450 ft/lbs (1-1/4" shank) or 250 ft/lbs (1" shank). High-performance ballmount nuts: 300 ft/lbs (or 150 ft/lbs plus 1/4 turn if no torque wrench). Snap-up bracket screw: 50 ft/lbs.
Loaded ball height must never exceed uncoupled ball height. If it does, you risk front wheel overload, loss of rear traction, unstable handling, reduced braking, and jackknifing. Adjust chain length to correct this before towing.
Add oil to trunnion contact areas, clean and grease the ball, check chains and U-bolts for wear, verify all bolts are tight, check the hitch pin and clip are secure, and confirm electrical hookups and safety chains are in place.
Reduce the number of chain links between the yoke hook and spring bar (minimum 4 links) and recheck the front wheel well measurement. If the height is still too high and you cannot reduce links further, the head assembly must be tilted forward: uncouple the trailer, remove the upper bolt from the head assembly, pivot the head up as needed, reassemble, and recheck the wheel well height.
Increase the number of chain links between the yoke hook and spring bar and recheck the front wheel well measurement. If the original height cannot be achieved, it is preferred that the wheel well height be lower after the spring bars are loaded.
This indicates the spring bar angle is not optimal. Adjust the ballmount angle rearward and repeat the snap-up bracket positioning procedure to achieve at least 5 links between the hook and U-bolt.
If the serrated washers are not aligned parallel to the ballmount teeth with an equal number of teeth showing at the top and bottom, the teeth can be stripped when loaded. Always re-check washer alignment after tightening the nut.
Tighten the nut in the lower hole of the ballmount enough to prevent easy rotation. This prevents the ballmount from shifting during adjustment.
The chain must not bind. Reposition the snap-up brackets on the trailer A-frame so the chain at the end of the spring bar is approximately vertical. This allows the chain to move freely when turning corners.
Check to see if the trailer is level. If not, you may need to re-adjust the ballmount angle and/or position. Refer to the spring bar height table and preliminary ballmount adjustment procedure to achieve the correct Y dimension.
If the shim does not begin to fit between the head and hitch bar, discard it and continue installation. The existing gap is acceptable.
If the shim does not go in far enough to reach the bottom hole, cut the shim in half and use only the top half for the top bolt. Discard the bottom half of the shim.
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Ordered online. Shipment arrived on time and with all the correct parts. Great customer service and friendly staff. Also, pricing was great!
May 22, 2023