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Reese
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Reese has combined the best of the features from all of our weight distributing kits to create the High-Performance Trunnion Kit. It includes a head design with superior strength and easy adjustment.
| BRAND: | REESE |
| PART NUMBER: | 66541 |
| WARRANTY: | LIMITED LIFETIME WARRANTY |
| WEIGHT: | 66 LBS |
| CAPACITY: | 8,000 LBS. |
| GROSS TONGUE WEIGHT: | 800 LBS. |
| INCLUDES SWAY CONTROL: | NO |
| UNIVERSAL OR SPECIFIC FIT: | UNIVERSAL |
| LENGTH: | 31 IN. |
| SAFETY CHAINS INCLUDED: | NO |
| MATERIAL: | STEEL |
| MOUNTING HARDWARE INCLUDED: | YES |
| ADJUSTABLE ARMS: | YES |
| MOUNTING BRACKET POSITION: | 28 IN. |
| COLOR: | BLACK |
| BOLT GRADE: | GRADE 5 NUT & GRADE 8 BOLT |
Reese has designed towing equipment since 1952 and remains a benchmark for heavy-duty towing. The line covers fifth wheel hitches such as the modular M5, gooseneck couplers including the Goose Box, air-ride and short-bed pin boxes, weight distribution systems with active sway control, and the accessories that connect them, all built to exceed published industry standards.
Reese has been pioneering towing performance since 1952, when Margaret Reese asked her husband TJ to stop travel trailers rocking every time somebody walked through them. His answer, the first pair of stabilising jacks, was simple and effective enough to change the RV industry. From that starting point Reese grew into a designer and manufacturer of complete towing systems, and today it anchors the heavy-duty end of the Horizon Global towing portfolio.
Fifth wheel towing is where the brand's engineering is most visible. The M5 fifth wheel hitch uses a modular design that breaks into manageable sections for assembly, with a wider stance, tighter tolerances and a shock absorption system aimed at the jolts that travel up through a truck bed. For owners who would rather tow from a gooseneck coupler and keep the bed clear, the Goose Box 20K replaces the trailer's king pin with a gooseneck connection carrying its own air-ride cushioning.
Pin boxes are a Reese speciality. The 5th Airborne uses air-ride technology to dampen road shock and reduce the chucking motion that makes fifth wheel towing tiring, while the Sidewinder was designed for short-bed pickups, pivoting the connection point so the trailer can turn sharply without the front cap meeting the cab.
For conventional towing, Reese weight distribution systems restore load to the tow vehicle's front axle and control sway. The Pro Round Bar distributes weight evenly while damping sway, and the Pro Dual Cam II uses active cam-based sway control that works harder the stronger the sway force becomes. Complete kits pair bars, head and shank to a rated tongue weight, and dedicated sway control kits can be added to existing setups. The products suit RV owners, horse and livestock haulers and anyone towing near the upper end of a vehicle's rating.
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Reese® and Pro Series™ Weight Distribution & Sway Control Hitches
A trunnion style weight distributing hitch kit is a towing system that distributes the trailer tongue weight across the towing vehicle's frame using spring bars and a ballmount head. The trunnion (a pin-like component) connects the spring bars to the ballmount, allowing the bars to pivot and distribute weight to both the front and rear axles of the towing vehicle. This improves stability, braking, and handling compared to a standard hitch.
The three most common hitch ball sizes are 1-7/8", 2", and 2-5/16". Select a ball with a 1-1/4" or 1" threaded shank that is V-5 rated and has a rating equal to or greater than your trailer's gross vehicle weight rating (GVWR). The ball diameter must match your trailer coupler size.
Some installations may require a longer hitch bar (part D). Extended bumper guards, pickup truck caps, or rear-mounted spare tires can limit turn angles unless a longer bar is used. Individual hitch bars are available in various sizes. Check your specific setup to determine if a longer bar is needed to avoid interference during turns.
Yes, but you must check your vehicle's owner's manual first. For vehicles with air springs, air shocks, or automatic leveling systems, follow the vehicle manufacturer's specific instructions. Unless otherwise specified, level the vehicle with it loaded as it will be when towing before setting ball height and attaching the trailer.
If your trailer has a straight tongue instead of an A-frame tongue, you will need to use a pole tongue adapter. This adapter attaches to the trailer tongue and provides a place to attach the snap-up brackets.
Yes. Some surge brakes will not work with weight distributing hitches. Check with your brake manufacturer before installation. Additionally, do not use sway control with surge brakes.
The kit includes a ballmount (G), hitch bar (D, not in all kits), high-performance ballmount components (3/4" bolt J, serrated washers E, lock washer L, nuts K), spring bars with trunnions, snap-up brackets, U-bolts, flat washers, locknuts, and a pull pin. A bushing (58184, part B) is included if you need to use a 1" shank ball instead of 1-1/4". An optional shim kit (58207) is available for filling gaps between the weight distributing head and hitch bar.
You will need drill bits in three sizes: 7/16", 9/16", and 1/4". You will also need a wrench to tighten the 1/2" self-tapping screw to 50 ft/lbs.
The manual does not specify a complete tool list for the basic installation. However, you will need wrenches to tighten fasteners to the specified torque values (450 ft/lbs for 1-1/4" ball nut, 250 ft/lbs for 1" ball nut, 300 ft/lbs for high-performance ballmount nuts, 50 ft/lbs for snap-up bracket bolts), a torque wrench, a jack to raise the vehicle and trailer, and a measuring tape. A heavy oil or grease for lubrication is also required.
1. Level the trailer and measure the distance from the ground to the top of the ball socket (X dimension). Record this measurement. 2. The ball height should be greater than the coupler height (measured in step 1) to compensate for vehicle squat, typically 3/4" to 1" higher. 3. After hooking up and loading, the loaded ball height must never exceed the uncoupled ball height, or front wheel overload and loss of rear traction will result.
Yes. Unless otherwise specified by your vehicle manufacturer, level the vehicle with it loaded as it will be when towing before setting ball height and attaching the trailer. This ensures the ball height is correct for your actual towing conditions.
Use the table on page 2 to determine the correct spring bar height (Y) based on your coupler height (X). The table shows Y values ranging from 7" to 11" coupler height, with three coupler styles (A, B, C) each having different Y dimensions. For non-integrated cam spring bars, add 1" to the Y dimension shown in the table. The ballmount is adjustable through a 15° angle range to achieve the proper Y dimension.
1. Select a hitch ball with a diameter matching your trailer coupler size (1-7/8", 2", or 2-5/16") and a V-5 rating equal to or greater than your trailer GVWR. 2. If using a standard 1-1/4" shank ball, it comes with lock washers and nuts. If using a 1" shank ball, use bushing 58184 to reduce the hole size. 3. Always use a lock washer and place it next to the nut. 4. Torque the ball nut to 450 ft/lbs for a 1-1/4" nut or 250 ft/lbs for a 1" nut, unless the ball manufacturer specifies otherwise. Note: Raised balls usually have reduced load ratings, so ensure the ball rating equals or exceeds your trailer GVWR.
1. Insert the hitch bar (D) into the hitch box and install a pull pin. 2. Place the ballmount (G) onto the hitch bar. 3. Move the ballmount up or down to achieve the proper height. The hitch bar can be used in either the up or down position. 4. The ball height should be greater than the coupler height (measured earlier) to compensate for vehicle squat, approximately 3/4" to 1" higher.
1. Install hardware in the lower hole of the ballmount and tighten the nut enough to prevent easy rotation. 2. Determine the spring bar height (Y) using the table based on your coupler height. 3. Insert the spring bar and trunnion into the ballmount. 4. Swing the bar outward to the same angle as when connected to the trailer. 5. Lift up on the bar to remove slack. 6. Tilt the ballmount to achieve the proper Y dimension at the end of the spring bar. The ballmount is adjustable through a 15° angle range.
1. Install the longer 3/4" bolt (J) with two serrated washers (E) as shown in the diagram. 2. Install the lock washer (L) and nut (K), but allow space for the washers to be positioned and aligned. 3. Align the washers as shown, with teeth parallel to the ballmount teeth. 4. Hold in position and tighten the nut. 5. Torque both nuts (K) to 300 ft/lbs. If a proper torque wrench is not available, torque to 150 ft/lbs then turn an additional 1/4 turn. 6. Do not lubricate the threads. 7. After tightening, re-check that an equal number of teeth show at the top and bottom of the washers.
Use the optional shim kit (58207) when needed to fill any gap between the weight distributing head and the hitch bar used in your particular application. Install the shim from top down. You will encounter one of three scenarios: (1) The shim goes all the way down to line up with the bottom hole—use the entire shim. In rare cases, two shims may be needed; contact Customer Service at 800-632-3290 or 800-428-7303 for a free additional shim. (2) The shim does not fit between the head and hitch bar—discard the shim; the existing gap is acceptable. (3) The shim does not go far enough to reach the bottom hole—cut the shim in half and use only the top half for the top bolt; discard the bottom half.
Attach chains to the spring bars using U-bolts, flat washers, and locknuts. Let 2-3 threads protrude below the locknut. The chain must not bind. The manual shows two configurations: standard spring bar and integrated cam spring bar. Ensure the chain is positioned correctly for your spring bar type.
1. Lower the coupler onto the ball using the tongue jack and close the coupler latch. 2. Hold the spring bar away from you with the trunnion ribbed side up. 3. Set the bottom knob of the trunnion into the lower socket of the ballmount (G). 4. Slide the knob into the top slot of the ballmount. 5. The spring bars will fit on either side as they are not made right or left handed.
1. Position the snap-up brackets on the trailer A-frame so that the chain at the end of the spring bar is approximately vertical. 2. Turn the 1/2 X 3-1/2 bolt until it contacts the frame. 3. Then tighten 1/4 turn with a wrench. Do not overtighten. 4. Raise the trailer tongue and rear of the vehicle with a jack. 5. Lower the yoke of the snap-up bracket until it is parallel with the ground. 6. Slip the closest link over the hook. If there are fewer than 5 links between the hook and U-bolt, adjust the ballmount angle rearward and repeat. 7. With the snap-up bracket handle over the yoke, raise until the yoke has passed over-center. 8. Slide the safety pin through the small hole to lock the yoke in place. 9. Repeat for the other side.
1. After installing the snap-up brackets, lower the jack and re-measure the front wheel well reference point. 2. The front wheel well height should be equal to the original measurement. 3. If the front wheel well is higher than originally measured, reduce the number of links between the yoke hook and spring bar (minimum 4 links) and recheck. 4. If the front wheel well is lower than originally measured, increase the number of chain links and recheck. 5. If the original wheel well height is not achievable, it is preferred that the wheel well height be lower after the spring bars are loaded. 6. If no more chain links are available for adjustment, the head assembly must be tilted forward: uncouple the trailer, remove the upper bolt from the head assembly, pivot the head up as needed, reassemble, and recheck the wheel well height.
Yes. If your snap-up bracket does not already have a hole in the location 2-1/4" above the arc in the bracket, you must drill one. The drilling process involves: (1) Drilling a 9/16" hole in the bracket before placing it on the frame. (2) Placing the bracket on the frame in the correct location. (3) Using the bracket hole as a guide to drill a 1/4" pilot hole in the frame, staying centered. (4) Finishing with a 7/16" drill bit to create the final hole. One method to stay centered is to use the 9/16" bit first to make a small dimple in the frame, then finish with the 1/4" and 7/16" bits.
Yes. If the shim does not go far enough to reach the bottom hole, cut the shim in half and use only the top half for the top bolt. Discard the bottom half of the shim.
Torque the hitch ball nut to 450 ft/lbs for a 1-1/4" nut or 250 ft/lbs for a 1" nut. Unless otherwise specified by the ball manufacturer, these are the standard torque values. Always use a lock washer and place it next to the nut.
Torque both nuts (K) on the high-performance ballmount to 300 ft/lbs. If a proper torque wrench is not available, torque the nuts to 150 ft/lbs then turn an additional 1/4 turn. Do not lubricate the threads.
Tighten the 1/2" self-tapping screw to 50 ft/lbs. After installing the screw, re-tighten the 1/2" set screw on the inside of the frame by turning only 1/4 to 1/2 turn after making contact with the frame.
The minimum number of chain links is 4. If there are fewer than 5 links between the hook and U-bolt during initial setup, you should adjust the ballmount angle rearward and repeat the procedure.
Yes. Always hook up trailer lights, turn signals, electric brakes, and break-away switch connection (if equipped) even for short trips. Proper electrical connections are essential for safe towing.
Loaded ball height should never be greater than uncoupled ball height. If the loaded ball height exceeds the uncoupled height, front wheel overload and loss of rear wheel traction can result, leading to unstable handling, reduced braking ability, and a tendency to jackknife when turning and braking simultaneously. If this occurs, reduce the take-up on spring bar chains and re-measure until proper height is obtained.
No. Do not attempt to tow any type of trailer behind another trailer. Towing multiple trailers may cause severe instability, loss of control, and/or structural failure, and may result in vehicle accident, property damage, and personal injury. Towing multiple trailers is illegal in many jurisdictions.
No. Do not attempt to hook up or tow with the rear wheels of a front-wheel-drive towing vehicle removed. Severe structural damage to the towing vehicle, hitch, and trailer may result. A towing vehicle/trailer combination cannot be controlled adequately unless the towing vehicle's rear wheels are carrying their share of the load.
No. Trailers should not be occupied while being towed, under any circumstances.
If any part of your towing system bottoms out, or if you suspect damage may have occurred in any other way, pull over and make a thorough inspection. Correct any problems before resuming travel. Severe bumps and badly undulating roads can damage your towing vehicle, hitch, and trailer, and should be negotiated at a slow steady speed.
Trunnions should be lubricated each towing day. When hooking up, place one drop of oil on the top and a second drop on the forward side of the upper trunnion. Place a third drop on the rear side of the lower trunnion before inserting it into the ballmount. Use heavy oil or grease. It is not necessary to unhook the spring bars, as there are two oil holes in the ballmount top plate for upper trunnion lubrication. Lubricate lower trunnions with one drop at the contact point between trunnion and lower socket. Also lubricate the hitch ball with one or two drops. Excess oil, dirt, and grit should be wiped out whenever the trailer is uncoupled.
At the beginning of every towing day, perform these checks: (1) Add a drop of oil at trunnion contact areas with the ballmount. (2) Clean the ball and coupler socket and coat the ball lightly with grease. (3) Check spring bar chains and U-bolts for wear; replace before they become worn halfway through. (4) Check that all bolts are properly tightened and the hitch pin and clip are securely in place. (5) Check that electrical hookups are in working order and that safety chains are connected.
Keep the ballmount head assembly exterior clean, especially the trunnion sockets. Do not allow dirt or stones to lodge between trunnions and the head. Keep trunnions and sockets free of dirt and well lubricated. Excessive wear in this area may indicate overload or inadequate lubrication. Some elongation of socket openings (seat-in) is normal. Keep the hitch painted to prevent rust and maintain a good appearance. Do not paint over labels.
Yes. Remove the hitch from the towing vehicle receiver when not towing. This prevents contamination of the head sockets, reduces the chance of striking the hitch on driveway ramps or other objects, and minimizes damage in the event of a rear-end collision.
Tongue weight should be about 10-15 percent of the gross trailer weight for most trailers. Too low a percentage of tongue weight will often produce a tendency to sway. Excess weight on the tongue can also lead to sway and damage the hitch and/or towing vehicle.
Proper trailer loading is important for safe towing. Heavy items should be placed close to the floor near the trailer axle. The load should be balanced side-to-side and firmly secured to prevent shifting. Tongue weight should be about 10-15 percent of the gross trailer weight for most trailers.
A sway control can help minimize the effects of sudden maneuvers, wind gusts, and buffeting caused by other vehicles. Use of a sway control is recommended for trailers with large surface areas, such as travel trailers. However, do not use sway control with surge brakes, as some surge brake systems are incompatible with weight distributing hitches.
Unless specified otherwise by the towing vehicle or trailer manufacturer, tires should be inflated to their maximum recommended pressure.
This is a universal trunnion-style weight distributing kit. Compatibility depends on your hitch receiver type, trailer coupler size (1-7/8", 2", or 2-5/16"), and trailer GVWR. Check your vehicle's owner's manual and the hitch receiver specifications. For vehicles with air springs or automatic leveling, consult your vehicle manual.
You must purchase a hitch ball separately. Select one with a diameter matching your trailer coupler (1-7/8", 2", or 2-5/16"), a V-5 rating equal to or greater than your trailer GVWR, and a 1-1/4" or 1" threaded shank. Raised balls have reduced ratings, so verify the ball rating meets or exceeds your trailer GVWR.
Drilling is required only if you install the optional snap-up bracket additional bolt. The basic hitch installation does not require drilling. If adding the bracket bolt, you will need to drill a 9/16" hole in the bracket and a 1/4" pilot hole in the trailer frame, finishing with a 7/16" hole.
You need a torque wrench capable of at least 300 ft/lbs, as the high-performance ballmount nuts require 300 ft/lbs. The hitch ball nut requires 450 ft/lbs (1-1/4" nut) or 250 ft/lbs (1" nut). If you don't have a 300 ft/lbs wrench, you can torque to 150 ft/lbs then turn an additional 1/4 turn.
Loaded ball height must never exceed uncoupled ball height. If it does, front wheel overload and loss of rear traction will result, causing unstable handling, reduced braking, and risk of jackknifing. If this occurs, reduce chain take-up on the spring bars and re-measure until proper height is achieved.
Before each towing day: (1) Add oil drops at trunnion contact areas. (2) Clean and grease the ball and coupler socket. (3) Check chains and U-bolts for wear. (4) Verify all bolts are tight and hitch pin is secure. (5) Test electrical connections and safety chains.
The manual does not mention disconnecting the vehicle battery. The basic hitch installation does not involve electrical work. If you are adding trailer electrical connections, follow the trailer manufacturer's instructions.
Reduce the number of chain links between the snap-up bracket yoke hook and the spring bar (minimum 4 links) and recheck the wheel well measurement. If the height is still too high, continue reducing links until the measurement matches the original.
Increase the number of chain links between the snap-up bracket yoke hook and the spring bar and recheck the wheel well measurement. Continue adding links until the measurement matches the original.
If the original wheel well height is not achievable through chain adjustment, it is preferred that the wheel well height be lower after the spring bars are loaded. If there are no more chain links available for adjustment, the head assembly must be tilted forward: (1) Uncouple the trailer. (2) Remove the upper bolt from the head assembly. (3) Pivot the head up as appropriate. (4) Reassemble. (5) Recheck the wheel well height.
If there are fewer than 5 links between the hook and U-bolt during initial setup, you should adjust the ballmount angle rearward and repeat the snap-up bracket installation procedure. This adjustment helps achieve the proper chain length and weight distribution.
If the serrated washers are not aligned parallel with the teeth on the ballmount, the teeth can be stripped when loaded. After tightening the nut, re-check that an equal number of teeth show at the top and bottom of the washers. If alignment is incorrect, loosen the nut, realign the washers, and retighten.
During preliminary ballmount adjustment, install hardware in the lower hole of the ballmount and tighten the nut enough to prevent easy rotation. If the ballmount continues to rotate easily after this step, verify that the nut is tightened sufficiently.
When attaching chains to the spring bars using U-bolts, flat washers, and locknuts, ensure the chain must not bind. Let 2-3 threads protrude below the locknut. If binding occurs, reposition the U-bolt or adjust the chain routing to allow free movement.
If the trailer is not level after hooking up, you may need to re-adjust the ballmount angle and/or position. Check the spring bar height (Y dimension) using the table and verify that the ballmount is tilted correctly to achieve the proper Y dimension at the end of the spring bar.
Check to see that there is room for the bar and chain to move when turning a corner. If clearance is insufficient, you may need to use a longer hitch bar (part D) to avoid interference with the vehicle body, bumper guards, truck cap, or spare tire during turns.
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May 22, 2023
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