Reese Weight Distribution Kit, 12,000 lbs. Capacity, Shank IncludedReese$1,030.69Out of Stock
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Reese has combined the best of the features from all of our weight distributing kits to create the High-Performance Trunnion Kit. It includes a head design with superior strength and easy adjustment.
| BRAND: | REESE |
| PART NUMBER: | 66022 |
| WARRANTY: | LIMITED LIFETIME WARRANTY |
| WEIGHT: | 65 LBS |
| CAPACITY: | 12,000 LBS. |
| GROSS TONGUE WEIGHT: | 1,200 LBS. |
| INCLUDES SWAY CONTROL: | NO |
| UNIVERSAL OR SPECIFIC FIT: | UNIVERSAL |
| LENGTH: | 31 IN. |
| SAFETY CHAINS INCLUDED: | NO |
| MATERIAL: | STEEL |
| MOUNTING HARDWARE INCLUDED: | YES |
| ADJUSTABLE ARMS: | YES |
| MOUNTING BRACKET POSITION: | 28 IN. |
| COLOR: | BLACK |
| BOLT GRADE: | GRADE 5 NUT & GRADE 8 BOLT |
Reese has designed towing equipment since 1952 and remains a benchmark for heavy-duty towing. The line covers fifth wheel hitches such as the modular M5, gooseneck couplers including the Goose Box, air-ride and short-bed pin boxes, weight distribution systems with active sway control, and the accessories that connect them, all built to exceed published industry standards.
Reese has been pioneering towing performance since 1952, when Margaret Reese asked her husband TJ to stop travel trailers rocking every time somebody walked through them. His answer, the first pair of stabilising jacks, was simple and effective enough to change the RV industry. From that starting point Reese grew into a designer and manufacturer of complete towing systems, and today it anchors the heavy-duty end of the Horizon Global towing portfolio.
Fifth wheel towing is where the brand's engineering is most visible. The M5 fifth wheel hitch uses a modular design that breaks into manageable sections for assembly, with a wider stance, tighter tolerances and a shock absorption system aimed at the jolts that travel up through a truck bed. For owners who would rather tow from a gooseneck coupler and keep the bed clear, the Goose Box 20K replaces the trailer's king pin with a gooseneck connection carrying its own air-ride cushioning.
Pin boxes are a Reese speciality. The 5th Airborne uses air-ride technology to dampen road shock and reduce the chucking motion that makes fifth wheel towing tiring, while the Sidewinder was designed for short-bed pickups, pivoting the connection point so the trailer can turn sharply without the front cap meeting the cab.
For conventional towing, Reese weight distribution systems restore load to the tow vehicle's front axle and control sway. The Pro Round Bar distributes weight evenly while damping sway, and the Pro Dual Cam II uses active cam-based sway control that works harder the stronger the sway force becomes. Complete kits pair bars, head and shank to a rated tongue weight, and dedicated sway control kits can be added to existing setups. The products suit RV owners, horse and livestock haulers and anyone towing near the upper end of a vehicle's rating.
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Reese® and Pro Series™ Weight Distribution & Sway Control Hitches
A trunnion style weight distributing hitch kit is a towing system that distributes the trailer tongue weight across the towing vehicle's frame using spring bars and a ballmount head assembly. The spring bars connect to the trailer A-frame via snap-up brackets and chains, and the trunnion (a pin mechanism) allows the ballmount to pivot, enabling the system to level the vehicle when the trailer is loaded. This improves stability, braking, and handling compared to a standard hitch.
The three most common hitch ball sizes are 1-7/8", 2", and 2-5/16". Select a ball with a 1-1/4" or 1" threaded shank that is V-5 rated and equal to or greater than your trailer's gross vehicle weight rating (GVWR). The ball diameter must match your trailer coupler size.
Raised balls usually have reduced load ratings. Your ball rating must equal or exceed your trailer GVWR. If you use a raised ball, verify that its rating is still sufficient for your trailer weight. Standard height balls are recommended.
If your trailer has a straight tongue instead of an A-frame tongue, you will need to use a pole tongue adapter. This adapter attaches to the trailer tongue and provides a place to attach the snap-up brackets.
Some surge brakes will not work with weight distributing hitches. Check with your brake manufacturer before installation. Do not use sway control with surge brakes.
Some installations require a longer hitch bar (part D). Extended bumper guards, pickup truck caps, or rear-mounted spare tires can limit turn angles unless a longer bar is used. Individual hitch bars are available in various sizes. Check your vehicle's clearance when turning to determine if an extended bar is needed.
For vehicles with air springs, air shocks, or automatic leveling systems, check your vehicle owner's manual for specific guidance. Unless otherwise specified, level the vehicle with it loaded as it will be when towing before setting ball height and attaching the trailer.
The kit includes a ballmount (G), hitch bar (D, not in all kits), spring bars with trunnions, snap-up brackets, chains, U-bolts, lock washers, nuts, and a pull pin. Standard height hitch balls with 1-1/4" shanks are supplied with lock washers and nuts. If you need to use a 1" shank ball, bushing 58184 (B, not in all kits) is available to reduce the hole size. An optional shim kit (58207) is available for gap filling.
You will need drill bits in the following sizes: 7/16", 9/16", and 1/4". You will also need a wrench to tighten the 1/2" self-tapping screw to 50 ft/lbs.
1. Line up the tow vehicle and trailer on level pavement in a straight-ahead position, uncoupled. 2. Level the trailer and measure the distance from the ground to the top of the ball socket (X dimension). 3. The ball height should be greater than the coupler height by approximately 3/4" to 1" to compensate for vehicle squat when loaded.
For vehicles with air springs, air shocks, or automatic leveling systems, check your vehicle owner's manual. For other vehicles, level the vehicle with it loaded as it will be when towing before setting ball height and attaching the trailer. The car and trailer should be loaded and ready for travel before final leveling.
1. Select a hitch ball with a 1-1/4" or 1" threaded shank rated V-5 equal to or greater than your trailer GVWR. 2. Attach the ball to the ballmount (G). Standard height balls with 1-1/4" shanks are supplied with lock washers and nuts. If using a 1" shank ball, use bushing 58184 (B) to reduce the hole size. 3. Always use a lock washer and place it next to the nut. 4. Unless otherwise specified by the ball manufacturer, torque the ball nut to 450 ft/lbs for a 1-1/4" nut or 250 ft/lbs for a 1" nut.
1. Insert the hitch bar (D) into the hitch box and install a pull pin. 2. Place the ballmount (G) onto the hitch bar. 3. Move the ballmount up or down to achieve the proper height. The hitch bar may be used in either the up or down position. The ball height should be greater than the coupler height (measured in step 1) by approximately 3/4" to 1" to compensate for vehicle squat.
The spring bar height Y is the vertical distance from the ground to the end of the spring bar when it is inserted into the ballmount at the correct angle. Use the provided table to determine the Y dimension based on your coupler height (X dimension). The table shows Y values ranging from 7" to 11" coupler height, with corresponding Y dimensions of 15" to 26" depending on coupler style (A, B, or C). For non-integrated cam spring bars, add 1" to the Y dimension.
1. Install hardware in the lower hole of the ballmount and tighten the nut enough to prevent easy rotation. 2. Determine the spring bar height Y using the provided table. 3. Insert the spring bar and trunnion into the ballmount. 4. Swing the bar outward to the same angle as when connected to the trailer. 5. Lift up on the bar to remove slack. 6. Tilt the ballmount to achieve the proper Y dimension at the end of the spring bar. The ballmount is adjustable through a 15° angle range.
Attach the chains to the spring bars using U-bolts, flat washers, and locknuts. Let 2-3 threads protrude below the locknut. The chain must not bind. The manual shows two configurations: standard spring bar and integrated cam spring bar.
1. Hold the spring bar away from you with the trunnion ribbed side up. 2. Set the bottom knob of the trunnion into the lower socket of the ballmount (G). 3. Slide the knob into the top slot of the ballmount. The spring bars will fit on either side as they are not made right or left handed.
1. Position the snap-up brackets on the trailer A-frame so that the chain at the end of the spring bar is approximately vertical. 2. Turn the 1/2" x 3-1/2" bolt until it contacts the frame. 3. Then tighten 1/4 turn with a wrench. Do not overtighten.
1. Raise the trailer tongue and rear of the vehicle with a jack. 2. Lower the yoke of the snap-up bracket until it is parallel with the ground. 3. Slip the closest link of the chain over the hook. If there are fewer than 5 links between the hook and U-bolt, adjust the ballmount angle rearward and repeat. 4. With the snap-up bracket handle over the yoke, raise until the yoke has passed over-center. 5. Slide the safety pin through the small hole to lock the yoke in place. 6. Repeat for the other side.
1. Lower the jack and re-measure the front wheel well reference point. 2. The front wheel well height should be equal to the original measurement. 3. If the wheel well is higher than originally measured, reduce the number of links between the yoke hook and spring bar (minimum 4 links) and recheck. 4. If the wheel well is lower than originally measured, increase the number of chain links and recheck. 5. If the original height is not achievable, it is preferred that the wheel well height be lower after the spring bars are loaded. 6. If no more chain links are available for adjustment, the head assembly must be tilted forward by uncoupling the trailer, removing the upper bolt, pivoting the head up as needed, and reassembling.
FALR stands for Front Axle Load Return. 100% FALR means the front fender is returned to the preload position. This is the manufacturer's recommendation for best performance of the weight distributing hitch system.
Yes. If your bracket does not already have a hole in the location 2-1/4" above the arc, you must drill it. The drilling sequence is: 1. Drill a 9/16" hole in the bracket before placing it on the frame. 2. Place the bracket on the frame in the correct position. 3. Using the bracket hole as a guide, drill a 1/4" pilot hole in the frame, staying centered. 4. One method is to use the 9/16" drill first to make a small dimple in the frame, then finish with the 1/4" drill bit, then the 7/16" drill bit for the final hole. 5. Install the 1/2" self-tapping screw.
Yes, the shim kit can be cut if needed. If the shim will not go far enough to reach the bottom hole, cut the shim in half and use only the top half for the top bolt. Discard the bottom half. If the shim goes all the way down to line up with the bottom hole, use the entire shim. If the shim does not fit between the head and hitch bar at all, discard it and continue installation—the existing gap is acceptable.
Unless otherwise specified by the ball manufacturer, torque the ball nut to 450 ft/lbs for a 1-1/4" nut or 250 ft/lbs for a 1" nut.
Torque the two nuts (K) on the high-performance ballmount to 300 ft/lbs. If a proper torque wrench is not available, torque the nuts to 150 ft/lbs and then turn the nuts an additional 1/4 turn. Do not lubricate the threads.
Install the 1/2" self-tapping screw into the hole in the bracket and frame, and tighten it to 50 ft/lbs. Then re-tighten the 1/2" set screw on the inside of the frame, turning only 1/4 to 1/2 of a turn after making contact with the frame.
The ballmount (G) is adjustable through a 15° angle range for proper spring bar adjustment.
Turn the 1/2" x 3-1/2" bolt until it contacts the frame, then tighten 1/4 turn with a wrench. Do not overtighten.
Yes. Always hook up trailer lights, turn signals, electric brakes, and break-away switch connection (if equipped) even for short trips. Check that all electrical hookups are in working order before towing.
Loaded ball height should never be greater than uncoupled ball height. If the loaded ball height is greater than the uncoupled height, front wheel overload and loss of rear wheel traction can result, leading to unstable handling, reduced braking ability, and a tendency to jackknife when turning and braking at the same time. If this occurs, reduce take-up on spring bar chains and re-measure until proper height is obtained.
No. Do not attempt to tow any type of trailer behind another trailer. Towing multiple trailers may cause severe instability, loss of control, and/or structural failure, and may result in vehicle accident, property damage, and personal injury. Towing multiple trailers is illegal in many jurisdictions.
No. Do not attempt to hook up or tow with rear wheels of the towing vehicle removed. Severe structural damage to the towing vehicle, hitch, and trailer may result. A towing vehicle/trailer combination cannot be controlled adequately unless the towing vehicle's rear wheels are carrying their share of the load.
No. Trailers should not be occupied while being towed, under any circumstances.
If any part of your towing system bottoms out, or if you suspect damage may have occurred in any other way, pull over and make a thorough inspection. Correct any problems before resuming travel. Severe bumps and badly undulating roads can damage your towing vehicle, hitch, and trailer and should be negotiated at a slow steady speed.
Tongue weight should be about 10-15 percent of the gross trailer weight for most trailers. Too low a percentage of tongue weight will often produce a tendency to sway. Excess weight on the tongue can also lead to sway and damage the hitch and/or tow vehicle.
A sway control can help minimize the effects of sudden maneuvers, wind gusts, and buffeting caused by other vehicles. Use of a sway control is recommended for trailers with large surface areas, such as travel trailers. However, do not use sway control with surge brakes.
After installation, verify that: 1. The trailer is level. 2. There is room for the bar and chain to move when turning a corner. 3. All bolts are properly tightened and the hitch pin and clip are securely in place. 4. Electrical hookups are in working order and safety chains are connected.
Trunnions should be lubricated each towing day. When hooking up, place one drop of oil on the top and a second drop on the forward side of the upper trunnion. Place a third drop on the rear side of the lower trunnion before inserting it into the ballmount. Use heavy oil or grease. Also lubricate the hitch ball with one or two drops. It is not necessary to unhook the spring bars, as there are two oil holes in the ballmount top plate for upper trunnion lubrication. Lubricate lower trunnions with one drop at the contact point between trunnion and lower socket.
At the beginning of every towing day: 1. Add a drop of oil at trunnion contact areas with the ballmount. 2. Clean the ball and coupler socket and coat the ball lightly with grease. 3. Check spring bar chains and U-bolts for wear. Replace before they become worn halfway through. 4. Check that all bolts are properly tightened and the hitch pin and clip are securely in place. 5. Check that electrical hookups are in working order and safety chains are connected.
Keep the ballmount head assembly exterior clean, especially the trunnion sockets. Do not allow dirt or stones to lodge between trunnions and the head. Keep trunnions and sockets free of dirt and well lubricated. Excessive wear in this area may indicate overload or inadequate lubrication. Some elongation of socket openings (seat-in) is normal. Keep the hitch painted to prevent rust and maintain good appearance. Do not paint over labels.
Yes. Remove the hitch from the towing vehicle receiver when not towing to prevent contamination of head sockets, reduce the chance of striking the hitch on driveway ramps or other objects, and minimize damage in the event of a rear-end collision.
Unless specified otherwise by the towing vehicle or trailer manufacturer, tires should be inflated to their maximum recommended pressure.
This manual does not specify vehicle make, model, or year compatibility. Contact the manufacturer at 1-888-521-0510 or consult a fitment database to confirm compatibility with your specific towing vehicle and trailer.
Yes. The kit does not include a hitch ball. You must select and purchase a ball with a 1-1/4" or 1" threaded shank, V-5 rated, matching your trailer coupler size (1-7/8", 2", or 2-5/16"), and rated equal to or greater than your trailer GVWR.
Drilling is required only if you install the optional snap-up bracket additional bolt. You will need 7/16", 9/16", and 1/4" drill bits. The main hitch installation does not require drilling.
You need a torque wrench capable of 450 ft/lbs (for the hitch ball nut), 300 ft/lbs (for the high-performance ballmount nuts), and 50 ft/lbs (for the snap-up bracket self-tapping screw). If you do not have a 300 ft/lbs wrench, you can torque to 150 ft/lbs and then turn an additional 1/4 turn.
Loaded ball height must never be greater than uncoupled ball height. If it is, you risk front wheel overload, loss of rear wheel traction, unstable handling, reduced braking, and jackknifing. Adjust chain length to correct this immediately.
Yes. For most vehicles, level the vehicle with it loaded as it will be when towing before setting ball height. For vehicles with air springs, air shocks, or automatic leveling systems, check your vehicle owner's manual for specific guidance.
Lubricate trunnions and the ballmount each towing day before hooking up. Place one drop of oil on the top and forward side of the upper trunnion, and one drop on the rear side of the lower trunnion. Also lubricate the hitch ball with one or two drops of heavy oil or grease.
This indicates the spring bars are not taking up enough load. Reduce the number of chain links between the yoke hook and spring bar (minimum 4 links) and recheck the wheel well measurement. If the wheel well is still too high, continue reducing links until the original height is achieved or the wheel well is slightly lower.
This indicates the spring bars are taking up too much load. Increase the number of chain links between the yoke hook and spring bar and recheck the wheel well measurement. Continue adjusting until the original height is achieved or the wheel well is slightly lower, which is acceptable.
If the original wheel well height is not achievable, it is preferred that the wheel well height be lower after the spring bars are loaded. If there are no more chain links for adjustment, the head assembly must be tilted forward. Uncouple the trailer, remove the upper bolt from the head assembly, pivot the head up as appropriate, reassemble, and recheck the wheel well height.
If the serrated washers are not aligned parallel with the teeth on the ballmount, the teeth can be stripped when loaded. The washers must be aligned so that an equal number of teeth show at the top and bottom. Always re-check washer alignment after tightening the nut.
Check to see if the trailer is level. If not, you may need to re-adjust the ballmount angle and/or position. Verify that the spring bar height Y dimension is correct for your coupler height using the provided table, and that the ballmount is tilted to achieve the proper Y dimension at the end of the spring bar.
Check to see that there is room for the bar and chain to move when turning a corner. If there is not enough clearance, you may need to use a longer hitch bar (part D) to prevent interference with the vehicle body, bumper guards, spare tire, or other components.
Excessive wear in the trunnion and socket area may indicate overload or inadequate lubrication. Ensure you are lubricating the trunnions each towing day with heavy oil or grease. If wear persists, you may be exceeding the hitch capacity or the trailer GVWR.
Matt
Ordered online. Shipment arrived on time and with all the correct parts. Great customer service and friendly staff. Also, pricing was great!
May 22, 2023
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