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Reese
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Reese has combined the best of the features from all of our weight distributing kits to create the High-Performance Trunnion Kit. It includes a head design with superior strength and easy adjustment.
| BRAND: | REESE |
| PART NUMBER: | 66020 |
| WARRANTY: | LIMITED LIFETIME WARRANTY |
| WEIGHT: | 53.3 LBS |
| CAPACITY: | 6,000 LBS. |
| GROSS TONGUE WEIGHT: | 600 LBS. |
| INCLUDES SWAY CONTROL: | NO |
| UNIVERSAL OR SPECIFIC FIT: | UNIVERSAL |
| LENGTH: | 31 IN. |
| SAFETY CHAINS INCLUDED: | NO |
| MATERIAL: | STEEL |
| MOUNTING HARDWARE INCLUDED: | YES |
| ADJUSTABLE ARMS: | YES |
| MOUNTING BRACKET POSITION: | 28 IN. |
| COLOR: | BLACK |
| BOLT GRADE: | GRADE 5 NUT & GRADE 8 BOLT |
Reese has designed towing equipment since 1952 and remains a benchmark for heavy-duty towing. The line covers fifth wheel hitches such as the modular M5, gooseneck couplers including the Goose Box, air-ride and short-bed pin boxes, weight distribution systems with active sway control, and the accessories that connect them, all built to exceed published industry standards.
Reese has been pioneering towing performance since 1952, when Margaret Reese asked her husband TJ to stop travel trailers rocking every time somebody walked through them. His answer, the first pair of stabilising jacks, was simple and effective enough to change the RV industry. From that starting point Reese grew into a designer and manufacturer of complete towing systems, and today it anchors the heavy-duty end of the Horizon Global towing portfolio.
Fifth wheel towing is where the brand's engineering is most visible. The M5 fifth wheel hitch uses a modular design that breaks into manageable sections for assembly, with a wider stance, tighter tolerances and a shock absorption system aimed at the jolts that travel up through a truck bed. For owners who would rather tow from a gooseneck coupler and keep the bed clear, the Goose Box 20K replaces the trailer's king pin with a gooseneck connection carrying its own air-ride cushioning.
Pin boxes are a Reese speciality. The 5th Airborne uses air-ride technology to dampen road shock and reduce the chucking motion that makes fifth wheel towing tiring, while the Sidewinder was designed for short-bed pickups, pivoting the connection point so the trailer can turn sharply without the front cap meeting the cab.
For conventional towing, Reese weight distribution systems restore load to the tow vehicle's front axle and control sway. The Pro Round Bar distributes weight evenly while damping sway, and the Pro Dual Cam II uses active cam-based sway control that works harder the stronger the sway force becomes. Complete kits pair bars, head and shank to a rated tongue weight, and dedicated sway control kits can be added to existing setups. The products suit RV owners, horse and livestock haulers and anyone towing near the upper end of a vehicle's rating.
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Reese® and Pro Series™ Weight Distribution & Sway Control Hitches
A trunnion style weight distributing hitch kit is a towing system that distributes the trailer tongue weight across the towing vehicle's frame using spring bars and a ballmount head. The trunnion (a pin-like component) connects the spring bars to the ballmount, allowing the system to flex and level the vehicle when the trailer is loaded. This reduces front-end squat and improves stability and braking.
The three most common hitch ball sizes are 1-7/8", 2", and 2-5/16". Select a ball with a 1-1/4" or 1" threaded shank that is V-5 rated equal to or greater than your trailer's gross vehicle weight rating (GVWR). The ball diameter must match your trailer coupler size.
Raised balls usually have reduced load ratings. Your ball rating must equal or exceed your trailer GVWR. If you use a raised ball, verify its rating is sufficient for your trailer weight before installation.
The kit includes a ballmount (G), spring bars with trunnions, snap-up brackets, chains with U-bolts and locknuts, a hitch bar (D, not included in all kits), lock washers, nuts, and a pull pin. For the high-performance ballmount, a 3/4" bolt (J), serrated washers (E), lock washer (L), and nuts (K) are included. An optional shim kit (58207) is available separately. A bushing (58184, part B) is included if you need to reduce the ballmount hole from 1-1/4" to 1" for a 1" shank ball.
For the main installation, you will need a wrench, a torque wrench, and a jack. If installing the optional snap-up bracket with an additional bolt, you will need drill bits in sizes 7/16", 9/16", and 1/4", and a drill. A tongue jack is required to lower the coupler onto the ball.
1. Line up your towing vehicle and trailer on level pavement in a straight-ahead position, uncoupled. 2. Level the trailer and measure the distance from the ground to the top of the ball socket (X dimension). 3. The ball height should be greater than the coupler height by approximately 3/4" to 1" to compensate for vehicle squat when loaded. Use the spring bar height table to determine the proper Y dimension based on your coupler height and style.
Yes. For vehicles with air springs, air shocks, or automatic leveling systems, check your vehicle owner's manual. Unless otherwise specified, level the vehicle with it loaded as it will be when towing before setting ball height and attaching the trailer. The vehicle and trailer should be loaded and ready for travel before final leveling.
Unless otherwise specified by the ball manufacturer, torque the ball nut to 450 ft/lbs for a 1-1/4" nut, or 250 ft/lbs for a 1" nut. Always use a lock washer and place it next to the nut.
1. Select a hitch ball with a shank diameter matching your ballmount hole (1-1/4" or 1"). If using a 1" shank ball and your ballmount has a 1-1/4" hole, use bushing 58184 to reduce the hole size to 1". 2. Insert the ball shank into the ballmount hole. 3. Install a lock washer next to the nut. 4. Torque the nut to 450 ft/lbs for 1-1/4" nuts or 250 ft/lbs for 1" nuts.
Some installations require a longer hitch bar (D). Extended bumper guards, pickup truck caps, or rear-mounted spare tires can limit turn angles unless a longer bar is used. Individual hitch bars are available in various sizes. If you experience restricted turning or interference, contact the manufacturer or your installer to determine if an extended bar is needed.
1. Insert the hitch bar (D) into the hitch box and install a pull pin. 2. Place the ballmount (G) onto the hitch bar. 3. Move the ballmount up or down to achieve the proper height. The hitch bar can be used in either the up or down position. Adjust the ballmount so the ball height is greater than the coupler height by approximately 3/4" to 1" to compensate for vehicle squat.
1. Install hardware in the lower hole of the ballmount and tighten the nut enough to prevent easy rotation. 2. Determine the spring bar height Y using the table (based on coupler height and style; add 1" for non-integrated cam spring bars). 3. Insert the spring bar and trunnion into the ballmount. 4. Swing the bar outward to the same angle as when connected to the trailer. 5. Lift up on the bar to remove slack. 6. Tilt the ballmount to achieve the proper Y dimension at the end of the spring bar. The ballmount is adjustable through a 15° angle range.
Torque the two nuts (K) on the high-performance ballmount to 300 ft/lbs. If a proper torque wrench is not available, torque the nuts to 150 ft/lbs and then turn the nuts an additional 1/4 turn. Do not lubricate the threads.
1. Install the longer 3/4" bolt (J) with two serrated washers (E) as shown in the diagram. 2. Install the lock washer (L) and nut (K), but allow space for the washers to be positioned and aligned. 3. Align the washers so the teeth are parallel and an equal number of teeth show at the top and bottom. 4. Hold the washers in position and tighten the nut. 5. Torque the two nuts (K) to 300 ft/lbs (or 150 ft/lbs plus an additional 1/4 turn if a torque wrench is not available). 6. Do not lubricate the threads. 7. Re-check washer alignment after the nut is tightened to ensure teeth are properly aligned.
Use the optional shim (part 58207) when needed to fill any gap between the weight distributing head and the hitch bar used in your particular application. It is easier to install the shim from the top down. Three scenarios may occur: (1) The shim goes all the way down to line up with the bottom hole—use the entire shim. In rare cases, two shims may be needed; contact Customer Service at 800-632-3290 or 800-428-7303 for a free additional shim. (2) The shim does not fit between the head and hitch bar—discard the shim; the existing gap is acceptable. (3) The shim does not go far enough to reach the bottom hole—cut the shim in half and use only the top half for the top bolt; discard the bottom half.
Attach the chains to the spring bars using U-bolts, flat washers, and locknuts. Let 2-3 threads protrude below the locknut. The chain must not bind. The manual shows two configurations: one for standard spring bars and one for integrated cam spring bars.
1. Hold the spring bar away from you with the trunnion ribbed side up. 2. Set the bottom knob of the trunnion into the lower socket of the ballmount (G). 3. Slide the knob into the top slot of the ballmount. The spring bars will fit on either side as they are not made right or left handed.
1. Position the snap-up brackets on the trailer A-frame so that the chain at the end of the spring bar is approximately vertical. 2. Turn the 1/2 X 3-1/2 bolt until it contacts the frame. 3. Then tighten 1/4 turn with a wrench. Do not overtighten.
1. Raise the trailer tongue and rear of the vehicle with a jack. 2. Lower the yoke of the snap-up bracket until it is parallel with the ground. 3. Slip the closest link over the hook. If there are fewer than 5 links between the hook and U-bolt, adjust the ballmount angle rearward and repeat the procedure. 4. With the snap-up bracket handle over the yoke, raise until the yoke has passed over-center. 5. Slide the safety pin through the small hole to lock the yoke in place. 6. Repeat for the other side.
1. Pick reference points on the front wheel well and measure the distance to the pavement before hooking up. 2. After engaging the snap-up brackets and lowering the jack, re-measure the front wheel well reference point. 3. The front wheel well height should be equal to the original measurement. If the height is higher than originally measured, reduce the number of links between the yoke hook and spring bar (minimum 4 links) and recheck. If the height is lower than originally measured, increase the number of chain links and recheck. 4. If the original height is not achievable, it is preferred that the wheel well height be lower after the spring bars are loaded. 5. If no more chain links are available for adjustment, the head assembly must be tilted forward by uncoupling the trailer, removing the upper bolt from the head assembly, pivoting the head up as needed, reassembling, and rechecking the wheel well height.
FALR stands for Front Axle Load Return. 100% FALR means the front fender is returned to the preload position. This is the manufacturer's recommendation for best performance.
After the initial hook-up, perform these checks: (1) Verify the trailer is level; if not, you may need to re-adjust the ballmount angle and/or position. (2) Check that there is room for the bar and chain to move when turning a corner.
Some surge brakes will not work with weight distributing hitches. Check with your brake manufacturer. Do not use sway control with surge brakes.
Trunnions should be lubricated each towing day. When hooking up, place one drop of oil on the top and a second drop on the forward side of the upper trunnion. Place a third drop on the rear side of the lower trunnion before inserting it into the ballmount. Use heavy oil or grease. Also lubricate the hitch ball with one or two drops. It is not necessary to unhook the spring bars; there are two oil holes in the ballmount top plate for upper trunnion lubrication. Lubricate lower trunnions with one drop at the contact point between trunnion and lower socket. Excess oil, dirt, and grit should be wiped out whenever the trailer is uncoupled.
At the beginning of every towing day, perform these checks and maintenance: (1) Add a drop of oil at trunnion contact areas with the ballmount. (2) Clean the ball and coupler socket and coat the ball lightly with grease. (3) Check spring bar chains and U-bolts for wear; replace before they become worn halfway through. (4) Check that all bolts are properly tightened and the hitch pin and clip are securely in place. (5) Check that electrical hookups are in working order and safety chains are connected.
Keep trunnions and sockets in the head assembly free of dirt and well lubricated. Excessive wear in this area may indicate overload or inadequate lubrication. Some elongation of socket openings (seat-in) is normal. Keep the head assembly exterior clean, especially the trunnion sockets. Do not allow dirt or stones to lodge between trunnions and the head. Keep the hitch painted to prevent rust and maintain a good appearance. Do not paint over labels.
Loaded ball height should never be greater than uncoupled ball height. If the loaded ball height is greater than the uncoupled height, front wheel overload and loss of rear wheel traction can result, leading to unstable handling, reduced braking ability, and a tendency to jackknife when turning and braking at the same time. If this occurs, reduce take-up on spring bar chains and re-measure until proper height is obtained.
No. Do not attempt to tow any type of trailer behind another trailer. Towing multiple trailers may cause severe instability, loss of control, and/or structural failure, and may result in vehicle accident, property damage, and personal injury. Towing multiple trailers is illegal in many jurisdictions.
No. Do not attempt to hook up or tow with rear wheels of the towing vehicle removed. Severe structural damage to the towing vehicle, hitch, and trailer may result. A towing vehicle/trailer combination cannot be controlled adequately unless the towing vehicle's rear wheels are carrying their share of the load.
No. Trailers should not be occupied while being towed, under any circumstances.
If any part of your towing system bottoms out, or if you suspect damage may have occurred in any other way, pull over and make a thorough inspection. Correct any problems before resuming travel. Severe bumps and badly undulating roads can damage your towing vehicle, hitch, and trailer and should be negotiated at a slow, steady speed.
Tongue weight should be about 10-15 percent of the gross trailer weight for most trailers. Too low a percentage of tongue weight will often produce a tendency to sway. Excess weight on the tongue can also lead to sway and damage the hitch and/or towing vehicle.
A sway control can help minimize the effects of sudden maneuvers, wind gusts, and buffeting caused by other vehicles. Use of a sway control is recommended for trailers with large surface areas, such as travel trailers. However, do not use sway control with surge brakes.
Remove the hitch from the towing vehicle receiver when not towing. This prevents contamination of the head sockets, reduces the chance of striking the hitch on driveway ramps or other objects, and minimizes damage in the event of a rear-end collision.
Always hook up trailer lights, turn signals, electric brakes, and break-away switch connection (if equipped) even for short trips.
Unless specified otherwise by the towing vehicle or trailer manufacturer, tires should be inflated to their maximum recommended pressure.
If your trailer has a straight tongue (pole tongue) instead of an A-frame tongue, it will be necessary to use a pole tongue adapter. This adapter attaches to the trailer tongue and provides a place to attach the snap-up brackets.
1. If the bracket does not already have a hole in the location 2-1/4" above the arc, mark the hole location. Center it left to right. 2. Before placing the bracket on the frame, drill a 9/16" hole in the bracket. 3. Place the bracket in the correct position on the frame. 4. Using the bracket hole as a guide, drill a 1/4" pilot hole, staying centered. One method: use the 9/16" drill first to make a small dimple, then finish with the 1/4" drill bit, then the 7/16" drill bit for the final hole. 5. Install the 1/2" self-tapping screw into the hole in the bracket and frame. Tighten to 50 ft/lbs. 6. Re-tighten the 1/2" set screw on the inside of the frame, turning only 1/4 to 1/2 turn after making contact with the frame.
You will need drill bits in three sizes: 7/16", 9/16", and 1/4".
Tighten the 1/2" self-tapping screw to 50 ft/lbs.
Re-tighten the 1/2" set screw on the inside of the frame by turning only 1/4 to 1/2 turn after making contact with the frame.
This kit is designed for towing vehicles with A-frame trailers. It is compatible with standard and integrated cam spring bars. Verify your hitch ball size matches your trailer coupler (1-7/8", 2", or 2-5/16") and that the ball is V-5 rated equal to or greater than your trailer GVWR. For specific vehicle fitment, consult the manufacturer or a professional installer.
You will need a wrench, a torque wrench, and a jack. If installing the optional snap-up bracket with an additional bolt, you will also need drill bits (7/16", 9/16", and 1/4") and a drill.
Drilling is not required for the main hitch installation. However, if you choose to install the optional snap-up bracket with an additional bolt for stronger trailer frame attachment, you will need to drill holes using 7/16", 9/16", and 1/4" drill bits.
Hitch ball nut: 450 ft/lbs (1-1/4" nut) or 250 ft/lbs (1" nut). High-performance ballmount nuts: 300 ft/lbs. Snap-up bracket self-tapping screw: 50 ft/lbs.
Loaded ball height must never be greater than uncoupled ball height. If it is, front wheel overload and loss of rear wheel traction can result, leading to unstable handling, reduced braking, and jackknifing. Adjust spring bar chain length to correct this condition.
Lubricate the trunnions and ballmount sockets before each towing day. Place one drop of oil on the top and forward side of the upper trunnion, and one drop on the rear side of the lower trunnion. Also lubricate the hitch ball with one or two drops. Use heavy oil or grease.
After installation and loading: (1) Verify the front wheel well height matches the original uncoupled measurement (adjust chain links if needed). (2) Check that the trailer is level. (3) Ensure there is adequate clearance for the bar and chain to move when turning. (4) Verify all bolts are tight and the hitch pin is secure.
Reduce the number of chain links between the yoke hook and spring bar (minimum 4 links) and recheck the wheel well measurement. If the height is still too high and you cannot reduce links further, the head assembly must be tilted forward by uncoupling the trailer, removing the upper bolt from the head assembly, pivoting the head up as needed, reassembling, and rechecking the wheel well height.
Increase the number of chain links between the yoke hook and spring bar and recheck the wheel well measurement. If the original height cannot be achieved, it is preferred that the wheel well height be lower after the spring bars are loaded.
This is a critical safety issue. Front wheel overload and loss of rear wheel traction can result, leading to unstable handling, reduced braking ability, and a tendency to jackknife. Reduce the take-up on the spring bar chains and re-measure until proper height is obtained. The loaded ball height must never exceed the uncoupled ball height.
If the serrated washers are not aligned parallel with the teeth on the ballmount, with an equal number of teeth showing at the top and bottom, the teeth can be stripped when loaded. Always align the washers correctly before tightening the nut, and re-check the alignment after the nut is tightened.
Excessive wear in the trunnion and socket area may indicate overload or inadequate lubrication. Ensure you are lubricating the trunnions each towing day with heavy oil or grease. Some elongation of socket openings (seat-in) is normal. If wear continues despite proper lubrication, the hitch may be overloaded.
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