Reese Weight Distribution Kit, 12,000 lbs. Capacity, Without ShankReeseOriginal price was $740.00. Current price is $738.03.In Stock
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Designed for loads beyond normal everyday towing situations, Titan Weight Distributing Hitch System provides a trunnion design with the highest rating available in the towing industry. Coupled with a 2-1/2" Class V Titan receiver, heavy loads are transported with ease. Ideal for commercial and industrial use.
| BRAND: | REESE |
| PART NUMBER: | 66006 |
| WARRANTY: | LIMITED LIFETIME WARRANTY |
| WEIGHT: | 65.95 LBS |
| CAPACITY: | 17,000 LBS. |
| GROSS TONGUE WEIGHT: | 1,700 LBS. |
| INCLUDES SWAY CONTROL: | NO |
| UNIVERSAL OR SPECIFIC FIT: | UNIVERSAL |
| LENGTH: | 31 IN. |
| SAFETY CHAINS INCLUDED: | NO |
| MATERIAL: | STEEL |
| MOUNTING HARDWARE INCLUDED: | YES |
| ADJUSTABLE ARMS: | YES |
| MOUNTING BRACKET POSITION: | 28 IN. |
| COLOR: | BLACK |
| BOLT GRADE: | GRADE 5 NUT & GRADE 8 BOLT |
Reese has designed towing equipment since 1952 and remains a benchmark for heavy-duty towing. The line covers fifth wheel hitches such as the modular M5, gooseneck couplers including the Goose Box, air-ride and short-bed pin boxes, weight distribution systems with active sway control, and the accessories that connect them, all built to exceed published industry standards.
Reese has been pioneering towing performance since 1952, when Margaret Reese asked her husband TJ to stop travel trailers rocking every time somebody walked through them. His answer, the first pair of stabilising jacks, was simple and effective enough to change the RV industry. From that starting point Reese grew into a designer and manufacturer of complete towing systems, and today it anchors the heavy-duty end of the Horizon Global towing portfolio.
Fifth wheel towing is where the brand's engineering is most visible. The M5 fifth wheel hitch uses a modular design that breaks into manageable sections for assembly, with a wider stance, tighter tolerances and a shock absorption system aimed at the jolts that travel up through a truck bed. For owners who would rather tow from a gooseneck coupler and keep the bed clear, the Goose Box 20K replaces the trailer's king pin with a gooseneck connection carrying its own air-ride cushioning.
Pin boxes are a Reese speciality. The 5th Airborne uses air-ride technology to dampen road shock and reduce the chucking motion that makes fifth wheel towing tiring, while the Sidewinder was designed for short-bed pickups, pivoting the connection point so the trailer can turn sharply without the front cap meeting the cab.
For conventional towing, Reese weight distribution systems restore load to the tow vehicle's front axle and control sway. The Pro Round Bar distributes weight evenly while damping sway, and the Pro Dual Cam II uses active cam-based sway control that works harder the stronger the sway force becomes. Complete kits pair bars, head and shank to a rated tongue weight, and dedicated sway control kits can be added to existing setups. The products suit RV owners, horse and livestock haulers and anyone towing near the upper end of a vehicle's rating.
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Reese® and Pro Series™ Weight Distribution & Sway Control Hitches
A trunnion style weight distributing hitch kit (model 66006) is a hitch system designed to distribute the tongue weight of a trailer across both the front and rear axles of the towing vehicle. The kit uses spring bars with trunnion connections that pivot in a ballmount head assembly. When the trailer is coupled, the spring bars are tensioned using chains attached to the trailer frame, which lifts the rear of the towing vehicle and lowers the front, distributing weight more evenly. This improves stability, braking, and handling compared to a standard hitch.
Yes. The manual shows installation instructions for both standard spring bars and integrated cam spring bars. The spring bars are not made right or left handed and will fit on either side of the ballmount. However, for non-integrated cam spring bars, you must add 1" to the Y dimension (spring bar height) when determining the proper adjustment height using the table provided.
Yes, but you will need a pole tongue adapter. If your trailer has a straight tongue instead of an A-frame tongue, the adapter attaches to the trailer tongue and provides a place to attach the snap-up brackets. The manual does not provide details on the adapter itself; contact the manufacturer or your dealer for the correct adapter for your trailer.
The three most common hitch ball sizes are 1-7/8", 2", and 2-5/16". Select a ball with a 1-1/4" or 1" threaded shank that is V-5 rated and has a rating equal to or greater than your trailer's gross vehicle weight rating (GVWR). The manual notes that raised balls usually have reduced load ratings, so the ball rating must equal or exceed the trailer GVWR.
The manual does not specify a complete tool list for the main hitch installation. However, for the optional snap-up bracket additional bolt installation, you will need drill bits in 7/16", 9/16", and 1/4" sizes, and a wrench to tighten fasteners. A torque wrench capable of 300 ft/lbs is recommended for the high-performance ballmount adjustment, though the manual provides an alternative method if one is not available.
Bushing 58184 is marked as "B - not included in all kits" on the diagram. You need it only if you must use a hitch ball with a 1" shank instead of the standard 1-1/4" shank. The bushing reduces the hole size in the ballmount (G) from 1-1/4" to 1". If your kit does not include it and you need a 1" shank ball, you will need to purchase bushing 58184 separately.
No. The diagram shows "D* not included in all kits." Some installations may require a longer hitch bar if extended bumper guards, pickup truck caps, or rear-mounted spare tires limit turn angles. Individual hitch bars are available in various sizes. If your kit does not include the longer bar and you need one, contact your dealer.
1. Line up your towing vehicle and trailer on level pavement in a straight-ahead position, uncoupled. 2. Level the trailer and measure the distance from the ground to the top of the ball socket (X dimension). 3. The ball height should be greater than the coupler height by approximately 3/4" to 1" to compensate for vehicle squat when loaded. For vehicles with air springs, air shocks, or automatic leveling systems, check your vehicle owner's manual. Unless otherwise specified, level the vehicle with it loaded as it will be when towing before setting ball height.
1. Select a hitch ball with a diameter matching your trailer coupler size (1-7/8", 2", or 2-5/16") and a V-5 rating equal to or greater than your trailer GVWR. 2. Attach the ball to the ballmount (G). 3. Always use a lock washer and place it next to the nut. 4. Unless the ball manufacturer specifies otherwise, torque the ball nut to 450 ft/lbs for a 1-1/4" nut or 250 ft/lbs for a 1" nut. If using a 1" shank ball, use bushing 58184 to reduce the hole size to 1".
1. Insert the hitch bar (D) into the hitch box and install a pull pin. 2. Place the ballmount (G) onto the hitch bar. 3. Move the ballmount up or down to achieve the proper height. The hitch bar can be used in either the up or down position. 4. The ball height should be greater than the coupler height (measured in step 1) by approximately 3/4" to 1" to compensate for vehicle squat.
1. Install hardware in the lower hole of the ballmount and tighten the nut enough to prevent easy rotation. 2. Determine the spring bar height "Y" using the provided table based on your coupler height (X dimension). 3. Insert the spring bar and trunnion into the ballmount. 4. Swing the bar outward to the same angle as when connected to the trailer. 5. Lift up on the bar to remove slack. 6. Tilt the ballmount to achieve the proper "Y" dimension at the end of the spring bar. The ballmount is adjustable through a 15° angle range.
1. Install the longer 3/4" bolt (J) with two serrated washers (E) as shown in the diagram. 2. Install the lock washer (L) and nut (K), but leave space for the washers to be positioned and aligned. 3. Align the washers so the teeth are parallel to the teeth on the ballmount, with an equal number of teeth showing at the top and bottom. 4. Hold the washers in position and tighten the nut. 5. Torque both nuts (K) to 300 ft/lbs. If a proper torque wrench is not available, torque to 150 ft/lbs then turn an additional 1/4 turn. 6. Do not lubricate the threads. Re-check washer alignment after tightening.
Use the shim to fill any gap between the weight distributing head and the hitch bar. Install it from the top down. You will encounter one of three scenarios: (1) The shim goes all the way down to line up with the bottom hole—use the entire shim. In rare cases, two shims may be needed; contact Customer Service at 800-632-3290 or 800-428-7303 for a free additional shim kit #58207. (2) The shim does not fit between the head and hitch bar—discard it; the existing gap is acceptable. (3) The shim does not go far enough to reach the bottom hole—cut it in half and use only the top half for the top bolt; discard the bottom half.
Attach chains to the spring bars using U-bolts, flat washers, and locknuts. Let 2-3 threads protrude below the locknut. The chain must not bind. The manual shows two configurations: one for standard spring bars and one for integrated cam spring bars. Ensure the chain is positioned so it will be approximately vertical when the snap-up brackets are positioned on the trailer A-frame.
1. Using the tongue jack, lower the coupler onto the ball and close the coupler latch. 2. Hold the spring bar away from you with the trunnion ribbed side up. 3. Set the bottom knob of the trunnion into the lower socket of the ballmount (G) and slide the knob into the top slot of the ballmount. The spring bars will fit on either side as they are not made right or left handed. 4. Position the snap-up brackets on the trailer A-frame so the chain at the end of the spring bar is approximately vertical. 5. Turn the 1/2 X 3-1/2 bolt until it contacts the frame, then tighten 1/4 turn with a wrench. Do not overtighten.
1. Raise the trailer tongue and rear of the car with a jack. 2. Lower the yoke of the snap-up bracket until it is parallel with the ground. 3. Slip the closest link over the hook. If there are fewer than 5 links between the hook and U-bolt, adjust the ballmount angle rearward and repeat. 4. With the snap-up bracket handle over the yoke, raise until the yoke has passed over-center. 5. Slide the safety pin through the small hole to lock the yoke in place. 6. Repeat for the other side. 7. Lower the jack and re-measure the front wheel well reference point. The height should equal the original measurement.
After lowering the jack, re-measure the front wheel well reference point. If the height is higher than originally measured, reduce the number of links between the yoke hook and spring bar (minimum 4 links) and recheck. If the height is lower than originally measured, increase the number of chain links and recheck. If the original height is not achievable, it is preferred that the wheel well height be lower after the spring bars are loaded. If no more chain links are available for adjustment, the head assembly must be tilted forward: uncouple the trailer, remove the upper bolt from the head assembly, pivot the head up as needed, reassemble, and recheck the wheel well height.
FALR stands for Front Axle Load Return. 100% FALR means the front fender is returned to the preload position. The manual recommends 100% FALR for best performance of the weight distributing hitch system.
After setting up the hitch and coupling the trailer, perform these checks: (1) Verify the trailer is level; if not, you may need to re-adjust the ballmount angle and/or position. (2) Check that there is room for the bar and chain to move when turning a corner. (3) Verify that the loaded ball height is not greater than the uncoupled ball height, as this can cause front wheel overload and loss of rear wheel traction.
Yes. If your snap-up bracket does not already have a hole in the location 2-1/4" above the arc in the bracket, you must drill one. The procedure is: (1) Mark the hole location, centered left to right and 2-1/4" above the arc. (2) Drill a 9/16" hole in the bracket. (3) Place the bracket on the frame in the correct position. (4) Using the bracket hole as a guide, drill a 1/4" pilot hole in the frame, staying centered. (5) Use the 9/16" bit to make a small dimple in the frame, then finish with the 1/4" bit and then the 7/16" bit for the final hole. (6) Install the 1/2" self-tapping screw and tighten to 50 ft/lbs.
Unless otherwise specified by the ball manufacturer, torque the ball nut to 450 ft/lbs for a 1-1/4" nut or 250 ft/lbs for a 1" nut. Always use a lock washer and place it next to the nut.
Torque both nuts (K) on the high-performance ballmount to 300 ft/lbs. If a proper torque wrench is not available, torque the nuts to 150 ft/lbs and then turn them an additional 1/4 turn. Do not lubricate the threads.
Torque the 1/2" self-tapping screw to 50 ft/lbs. After tightening the screw, re-tighten the 1/2" set screw on the inside of the frame by turning only 1/4 to 1/2 of a turn after making contact with the frame.
Use this table to determine the spring bar height (Y) based on your coupler height (X): For coupler height 7", use Y of 4-1/2" (Style A), 5-1/2" (Style B), or 5-1/2" (Style C). For 8", use 5-1/2", 6-1/2", or 6-1/2". For 9", use 6-1/2", 7-1/2", or 7-1/2". For 10", use 7-1/2", 8-1/2", or 8-1/2". For 11", use 8-1/2", 9-1/2", or 9-1/2". Add 1" to the Y dimension for non-integrated cam spring bars.
The snap-up bracket uses a 1/2 X 3-1/2 bolt. Turn it until it contacts the frame, then tighten 1/4 turn with a wrench. Do not overtighten. There is also an optional additional bolt: a 1/2" self-tapping screw installed 2-1/4" above the arc in the bracket, torqued to 50 ft/lbs.
Loaded ball height should never be greater than uncoupled ball height. If the loaded ball height is greater than the uncoupled height, front wheel overload and loss of rear wheel traction can result, leading to unstable handling, reduced braking ability, and a tendency to jackknife when turning and braking at the same time. If this occurs, reduce the take-up on spring bar chains and re-measure until proper height is obtained.
No. Do not attempt to tow any type of trailer behind another trailer. Towing multiple trailers may cause severe instability, loss of control, and/or structural failure, and may result in vehicle accident, property damage, and personal injury. Towing multiple trailers is illegal in many jurisdictions.
No. Do not attempt to hook up or tow with the rear wheels of a front-wheel-drive towing vehicle removed. Severe structural damage to the towing vehicle, hitch, and trailer may result. A towing vehicle/trailer combination cannot be controlled adequately unless the towing vehicle's rear wheels are carrying their share of the load.
Yes. Some surge brakes will not work with weight distributing hitches. Check with the brake manufacturer before using this hitch. Additionally, do not use sway control with surge brakes.
No. Trailers should not be occupied while being towed, under any circumstances.
Yes. Always hook up trailer lights, turn signals, electric brakes, and break-away switch connection (if equipped) even for short trips.
Trunnions should be lubricated each towing day. When hooking up, place one drop of oil on the top and a second drop on the forward side of the upper trunnion. Place a third drop on the rear side of the lower trunnion before inserting it into the ballmount. Use heavy oil or grease. It is not necessary to unhook the spring bars, as there are two oil holes in the ballmount top plate for upper trunnion lubrication. Lubricate lower trunnions with one drop at the contact point between trunnion and lower socket. Also lubricate the hitch ball with one or two drops. Excess oil, dirt, and grit should be wiped out whenever the trailer is uncoupled.
At the beginning of every towing day: (1) Add a drop of oil at trunnion contact areas with the ballmount. (2) Clean the ball and coupler socket and coat the ball lightly with grease. (3) Check spring bar chains and U-bolts for wear; replace before they become worn halfway through. (4) Check that all bolts are properly tightened and the hitch pin and clip are securely in place. (5) Check that electrical hookups are in working order and that safety chains are connected.
Keep the trunnions and sockets in the head assembly free of dirt and well lubricated. Excessive wear in this area may indicate overload or inadequate lubrication. Some elongation of socket openings (seat-in) is normal. Keep the head assembly exterior clean, especially the trunnion sockets. Do not allow dirt or stones to lodge between trunnions and the head. Keep the hitch painted to prevent rust and maintain a good appearance. Do not paint over labels.
Yes. Remove the hitch from the towing vehicle receiver when not towing to prevent contamination of the head sockets, reduce the chance of striking the hitch on driveway ramps or other objects, and minimize damage in the event of a rear-end collision.
Tongue weight should be about 10-15 percent of the gross trailer weight for most trailers. Too low a percentage of tongue weight will often produce a tendency to sway. Excess weight on the tongue can also lead to sway and damage the hitch and/or towing vehicle.
Unless specified otherwise by the towing vehicle or trailer manufacturer, tires should be inflated to their maximum recommended pressure.
A sway control can help minimize the effects of sudden maneuvers, wind gusts, and buffeting caused by other vehicles. Use of a sway control is recommended for trailers with large surface areas, such as travel trailers. However, do not use sway control with surge brakes.
The 66006 is a universal trunnion style weight distributing hitch designed for towing vehicles with trailers. It works with standard and integrated cam spring bars and A-frame trailers. Compatibility depends on your vehicle having a hitch receiver and your trailer having an A-frame (or using a pole tongue adapter). Consult your vehicle and trailer manuals and contact the manufacturer if you have specific fitment questions.
A torque wrench capable of 300 ft/lbs is recommended for the high-performance ballmount (though an alternative method is provided if unavailable). For the optional snap-up bracket additional bolt, you need drill bits in 7/16", 9/16", and 1/4" sizes. Standard wrenches are needed for tightening fasteners. The manual does not provide a complete tool list for the main installation.
The manual does not mention disconnecting the battery. This is a mechanical hitch installation with no electrical components, so battery disconnection is not required.
Drilling is not required for the main hitch installation. However, if you choose to install the optional snap-up bracket additional bolt for a stronger trailer frame attachment, you must drill a 9/16" hole in the bracket and a 1/4" pilot hole in the trailer frame, then finish with a 7/16" hole.
Torque both nuts on the high-performance ballmount to 300 ft/lbs. If a torque wrench is not available, torque to 150 ft/lbs and then turn an additional 1/4 turn. Do not lubricate the threads.
Loaded ball height must never be greater than uncoupled ball height. If it is, front wheel overload and loss of rear wheel traction can occur, causing unstable handling, reduced braking, and jackknifing. If this happens, reduce the spring bar chain take-up and re-measure until proper height is achieved.
Lubricate the trunnions and ballmount before each towing day. Place one drop of oil on the top and forward side of the upper trunnion, and one drop on the rear side of the lower trunnion. Also lubricate the hitch ball with one or two drops. Use heavy oil or grease. Wipe out excess oil and dirt whenever the trailer is uncoupled.
Reduce the number of links between the yoke hook and spring bar (minimum 4 links) and recheck the wheel well measurement. If the height is still too high and you cannot reduce links further, the head assembly must be tilted forward: uncouple the trailer, remove the upper bolt from the head assembly, pivot the head up as needed, reassemble, and recheck the wheel well height.
Increase the number of chain links between the yoke hook and spring bar and recheck the wheel well measurement. If the original height cannot be achieved, it is preferred that the wheel well height be lower after the spring bars are loaded. If no more chain links are available for adjustment, the head assembly must be tilted forward as described in the manual.
If the serrated washers are not aligned parallel with the teeth on the ballmount, with an equal number of teeth showing at the top and bottom, the teeth can be stripped when loaded. Always align the washers correctly before tightening the nut, and re-check alignment after the nut is tightened.
Turn the 1/2 X 3-1/2 bolt until it contacts the frame, then tighten 1/4 turn with a wrench. Do not overtighten. If the bolt seems loose after this, verify that you have tightened it exactly 1/4 turn after contact. Overtightening can damage the bracket or frame.
Check to see if the trailer is level. If not, you may need to re-adjust the ballmount angle and/or position. Verify that the spring bar height (Y dimension) is correct for your coupler height using the provided table. You may also need to adjust the number of chain links between the yoke hook and spring bar.
Check to see that there is room for the bar and chain to move when turning a corner. If there is not enough clearance, you may need to use a longer hitch bar (D) if extended bumper guards, pickup truck caps, or rear-mounted spare tires are limiting turn angles. Individual hitch bars are available in various sizes.
Verify that the ball nut is torqued to the correct specification: 450 ft/lbs for a 1-1/4" nut or 250 ft/lbs for a 1" nut (unless the ball manufacturer specifies otherwise). Ensure a lock washer is installed next to the nut. If the nut is loose, re-torque it to the proper specification.
During preliminary ballmount adjustment, install hardware in the lower hole of the ballmount and tighten the nut enough to prevent easy rotation. If the ballmount is still rotating too easily after this, verify that the nut is tightened sufficiently.
This condition can cause front wheel overload and loss of rear wheel traction, leading to unstable handling, reduced braking ability, and a tendency to jackknife when turning and braking simultaneously. To fix it, reduce the take-up on the spring bar chains and re-measure until proper height is obtained. The loaded ball height must never exceed the uncoupled ball height.
Jennifer
Ordered online. Shipment arrived on time and with all the correct parts. Great customer service and friendly staff. Also, pricing was great!
May 22, 2023
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