Reese Weight Distribution Kit, 12,000 lbs. Capacity, Without ShankReeseOriginal price was $740.00. Current price is $738.03.In Stock
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Reese has combined the best of the features from all of our weight distributing kits to create the High-Performance Trunnion Kit. It includes a head design with superior strength and easy adjustment.
Reese has designed towing equipment since 1952 and remains a benchmark for heavy-duty towing. The line covers fifth wheel hitches such as the modular M5, gooseneck couplers including the Goose Box, air-ride and short-bed pin boxes, weight distribution systems with active sway control, and the accessories that connect them, all built to exceed published industry standards.
Reese has been pioneering towing performance since 1952, when Margaret Reese asked her husband TJ to stop travel trailers rocking every time somebody walked through them. His answer, the first pair of stabilising jacks, was simple and effective enough to change the RV industry. From that starting point Reese grew into a designer and manufacturer of complete towing systems, and today it anchors the heavy-duty end of the Horizon Global towing portfolio.
Fifth wheel towing is where the brand's engineering is most visible. The M5 fifth wheel hitch uses a modular design that breaks into manageable sections for assembly, with a wider stance, tighter tolerances and a shock absorption system aimed at the jolts that travel up through a truck bed. For owners who would rather tow from a gooseneck coupler and keep the bed clear, the Goose Box 20K replaces the trailer's king pin with a gooseneck connection carrying its own air-ride cushioning.
Pin boxes are a Reese speciality. The 5th Airborne uses air-ride technology to dampen road shock and reduce the chucking motion that makes fifth wheel towing tiring, while the Sidewinder was designed for short-bed pickups, pivoting the connection point so the trailer can turn sharply without the front cap meeting the cab.
For conventional towing, Reese weight distribution systems restore load to the tow vehicle's front axle and control sway. The Pro Round Bar distributes weight evenly while damping sway, and the Pro Dual Cam II uses active cam-based sway control that works harder the stronger the sway force becomes. Complete kits pair bars, head and shank to a rated tongue weight, and dedicated sway control kits can be added to existing setups. The products suit RV owners, horse and livestock haulers and anyone towing near the upper end of a vehicle's rating.
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Reese® and Pro Series™ Weight Distribution & Sway Control Hitches
A trunnion style weight distributing hitch kit is a towing system that distributes the trailer tongue weight across the towing vehicle's frame using spring bars and a ballmount head. The spring bars connect to the trailer frame via snap-up brackets and chains, and the trunnions (cylindrical pivots) allow the ballmount to tilt, enabling the system to level the vehicle when the trailer is loaded. This improves stability, braking, and handling compared to a standard hitch.
The three most common hitch ball sizes are 1-7/8", 2", and 2-5/16". Select a ball with a 1-1/4" or 1" threaded shank that is V-5 rated and equal to or greater than your trailer's gross vehicle weight rating (GVWR). If using a 1" shank ball, you must use bushing 58184 to reduce the ballmount hole size to 1".
Raised balls usually have reduced load ratings. Your ball rating must equal or exceed your trailer's GVWR. If you use a raised ball, verify that its V-5 rating still meets or exceeds your trailer's GVWR before installation.
Some installations require a longer hitch bar (part D). Extended bumper guards, pickup truck caps, or rear-mounted spare tires can limit turn angles unless a longer bar is used. Individual hitch bars are available in various sizes. Check your vehicle's clearance when turning; if the hitch or trailer contacts the vehicle, a longer bar is needed.
If your trailer has a straight tongue instead of an A-frame tongue, you will need to use a pole tongue adapter. This adapter attaches to the trailer tongue and provides a place to attach the snap-up brackets.
Yes. Some surge brakes will not work with weight distributing hitches. Check with your brake manufacturer before installation. Do not use sway control with surge brakes.
No. Do not attempt to tow any type of trailer behind another trailer. Towing multiple trailers may cause severe instability, loss of control, and/or structural failure, and may result in vehicle accident, property damage, and personal injury. Towing multiple trailers is illegal in many jurisdictions.
No. Do not attempt to hook up or tow with rear wheels of the towing vehicle removed. Severe structural damage to the towing vehicle, hitch, and trailer may result. A towing vehicle/trailer combination cannot be controlled adequately unless the towing vehicle's rear wheels are carrying their share of the load.
For the main hitch installation, you will need a wrench to torque the hitch ball nut and the high-performance ballmount nuts. For the optional snap-up bracket additional bolt installation, you will need drill bits in sizes 7/16", 9/16", and 1/4", and a torque wrench capable of 50 ft/lbs and 300 ft/lbs.
Standard height hitch balls with 1-1/4" shanks are supplied with lock washers and nuts. The kit includes a hitch bar (D), ballmount (G), high-performance ballmount bolt (J), serrated washers (E), lock washer (L), nuts (K), and an optional shim kit. Part B (bushing 58184) and part D (longer hitch bar) are not included in all kits. The snap-up bracket additional bolt kit includes two 1/2" x 1.00" self-tapping screws.
Yes. If you must use a 1" shank ball, you need to use bushing 58184 (part B) to reduce the hole size in the ballmount (G) from 1-1/4" to 1". This bushing is not included in all kits and may need to be purchased separately.
Line up the tow vehicle and trailer on level pavement in a straight-ahead position, uncoupled. Level the trailer and measure the distance from the ground to the top of the ball socket (X dimension). For vehicles with air springs, air shocks, or automatic leveling systems, check your vehicle's owner manual. Unless otherwise specified, level the vehicle with it loaded as it will be when towing before setting ball height and attaching the trailer.
Ball height should be greater than coupler height (measured in step 1) to compensate for vehicle squat, approximately 3/4" to 1". The hitch bar can be used in either the up or down position to achieve the correct height. Adjust the ballmount up or down on the hitch bar as needed.
Attach the hitch ball to the ballmount (G) with the supplied lock washer and nut. Always use a lock washer and place it next to the nut. Unless otherwise specified by the ball manufacturer, torque the ball nut to 450 ft/lbs for a 1-1/4" nut, or 250 ft/lbs for a 1" nut.
Install hardware in the lower hole of the ballmount and tighten the nut enough to prevent easy rotation. Determine the spring bar height Y using the table provided (based on coupler height X and coupler style A, B, or C). Insert the spring bar and trunnion into the ballmount. Swing the bar outward to the same angle as when connected to the trailer. Lift up on the bar to remove slack. Tilt the ballmount to achieve the proper Y dimension at the end of the spring bar. The ballmount is adjustable through a 15° angle range.
Install the longer 3/4" bolt (J) with two serrated washers (E) as shown in the diagram. Install the lock washer (L) and nut (K), but allow space for the washers to be positioned and aligned. Align the washers as shown, hold in position, and tighten the nut. Torque the two nuts (K) to 300 ft/lbs. If a proper torque wrench is not available, torque the nuts to 150 ft/lbs, then turn the nuts an additional 1/4 turn. Do not lubricate the threads.
Use the shim to fill any gap between the weight distributing head and the hitch bar. Install from the top down. If the shim goes all the way down to line up with the bottom hole, use the entire shim. If the shim does not fit between the head and hitch bar, discard it; the existing gap is acceptable. If the shim does not go far enough to reach the bottom hole, cut it in half and use only the top half for the top bolt; discard the bottom half. In rare cases where two shims are needed, contact Customer Service at 800-632-3290 or 800-428-7303 for a free additional shim service kit #58207.
Attach chains to the spring bars using U-bolts, flat washers, and locknuts. Let 2-3 threads protrude below the locknut. The chain must not bind. The manual shows two configurations: one for standard spring bars and one for integrated cam spring bars.
Hold the spring bar away from you with the trunnion ribbed side up. Set the bottom knob of the trunnion into the lower socket of the ballmount (G) and slide the knob into the top slot of the ballmount. The spring bars will fit on either side as they are not made right or left handed.
Position the snap-up brackets on the trailer A-frame so that the chain at the end of the spring bar is approximately vertical. Turn the 1/2" x 3-1/2" bolt until it contacts the frame, then tighten 1/4 turn with a wrench. Do not overtighten. Raise the trailer tongue and rear of the car with a jack. Lower the yoke of the snap-up bracket until it is parallel with the ground, and slip the closest link over the hook. If there are fewer than 5 links between the hook and U-bolt, adjust the ballmount angle rearward and repeat. With the snap-up bracket handle over the yoke, raise until the yoke has passed over-center. Slide the safety pin through the small hole to lock the yoke in place. Repeat for the other side.
Lower the jack and re-measure the front wheel well reference point. The front wheel well height should be equal to the original measurement. If the height is higher than originally measured, reduce the number of links between the yoke hook and spring bar (minimum 4 links) and recheck. If the height is lower than originally measured, increase the number of chain links and recheck. If the original height is not achievable, it is preferred that the wheel well height be lower after the spring bars are loaded. If no more chain links are available for adjustment, the head assembly must be tilted forward: uncoupler the trailer, remove the upper bolt from the head assembly, pivot the head up as appropriate, reassemble, and recheck the wheel well height.
FALR stands for Front Axle Load Return. 100% FALR means the front fender is returned to the preload position. This is the manufacturer's recommendation for best performance of the weight distributing hitch system.
Yes. If your snap-up bracket does not already have a hole in the location 2-1/4" above the arc in the bracket, you must drill one. Drill a 9/16" hole in the bracket before placing it on the frame. Then, using the bracket hole as a guide, drill a 1/4" pilot hole in the frame, staying centered. You can use the 9/16" drill bit first to make a small dimple in the frame, then finish with the 1/4" drill bit and finally the 7/16" drill bit to get the final hole.
Yes. If the shim does not go far enough to reach the bottom hole, cut the shim in half and use only the top half for the top bolt. Discard the bottom half of the shim.
Unless otherwise specified by the ball manufacturer, torque the ball nut to 450 ft/lbs for a 1-1/4" nut, or 250 ft/lbs for a 1" nut.
Torque the two nuts (K) on the high-performance ballmount to 300 ft/lbs. If a proper torque wrench is not available, torque the nuts to 150 ft/lbs, then turn the nuts an additional 1/4 turn. Do not lubricate the threads.
Install the 1/2" self-tapping screw into the hole in the bracket and frame, and tighten it to 50 ft/lbs. Then re-tighten the 1/2" set screw on the inside of the frame, turning only 1/4 to 1/2 of a turn after making contact with the frame.
Use the table provided in the manual. For coupler height X, select your coupler style (A, B, or C) and find the corresponding Y dimension. For example: if coupler height is 7" and style is A, Y is 15-18"; if style B, Y is 4-1/2"; if style C, Y is 5-1/2". For non-integrated cam spring bars, add 1" to the Y dimension.
The ballmount (G) is adjustable through a 15° angle range for proper spring bar adjustment.
The minimum is 4 links. If there are fewer than 5 links between the hook and U-bolt during initial setup, adjust the ballmount angle rearward and repeat the procedure.
Let 2-3 threads protrude below the locknut when attaching chains to the spring bars.
The hole should be centered from left to right and placed 2-1/4" above the arc in the bracket.
Loaded ball height should never be greater than uncoupled ball height. If loaded ball height is greater than uncoupled height, front wheel overload and loss of rear wheel traction can result, leading to unstable handling, reduced braking ability, and a tendency to jackknife when turning and braking at the same time. If this occurs, reduce take-up on spring bar chains and re-measure until proper height is obtained.
No. Trailers should not be occupied while being towed, under any circumstances.
If any part of your towing system bottoms out, or if you suspect damage may have occurred in any other way, pull over and make a thorough inspection. Correct any problems before resuming travel.
Tongue weight should be about 10-15 percent of the gross trailer weight for most trailers. Too low a percentage of tongue weight will often produce a tendency to sway. Excess weight on the tongue can also lead to sway and damage the hitch and/or tow vehicle.
A sway control can help minimize the effects of sudden maneuvers, wind gusts, and buffeting caused by other vehicles. Use of a sway control is recommended for trailers with large surface areas, such as travel trailers. However, do not use sway control with surge brakes.
Unless specified otherwise by the towing vehicle or trailer manufacturer, tires should be inflated to their maximum recommended pressure.
Always hook up trailer lights, turn signals, electric brakes, and break-away switch connection (if equipped) even for short trips.
Check to see if the trailer is level; if not, you may need to re-adjust the ballmount angle and/or position. Check to see that there is room for the bar and chain to move when turning a corner. Verify that all bolts are properly tightened and the hitch pin and clip are securely in place.
Trunnions should be lubricated each towing day. When hooking up, place one drop of oil on the top and a second drop on the forward side of the upper trunnion. Place a third drop on the rear side of the lower trunnion before inserting the trunnion into the ballmount. Use a heavy oil or grease. It is not necessary to unhook the spring bars, as there are two oil holes in the ballmount top plate for upper trunnion lubrication. Lubricate lower trunnions with one drop at the contact point between trunnion and lower socket. Also lubricate the hitch ball with one or two drops.
At the beginning of every towing day: add a drop of oil at trunnion contact areas with the ballmount; clean the ball and coupler socket and coat the ball lightly with grease; check spring bar chains and U-bolts for wear and replace before they become worn halfway through; check that all bolts are properly tightened and the hitch pin and clip are securely in place; check that electrical hookups are in working order and safety chains are connected.
Keep trunnions and sockets in the head assembly free of dirt and well lubricated. Excessive wear in this area may indicate overload or inadequate lubrication. Some elongation of socket openings is normal. Keep the head assembly exterior clean, especially the trunnion sockets. Do not allow dirt or stones to lodge between trunnions and the head. Keep the hitch painted to prevent rust and maintain a good appearance. Do not paint over labels.
Yes. Remove the hitch from the towing vehicle receiver when not towing to prevent contamination of head sockets, reduce the chance of striking the hitch on driveway ramps or other objects, and minimize damage in the event of a rear-end collision.
Excessive wear in the trunnion and socket area may indicate overload or inadequate lubrication. Ensure you are lubricating the trunnions each towing day with a heavy oil or grease. If wear persists despite proper lubrication, the hitch may be overloaded; verify that your trailer's GVWR does not exceed the hitch rating.
Excess oil, dirt, and grit should be wiped out whenever the trailer is uncoupled. Keep the head assembly exterior clean, especially the trunnion sockets, and do not allow dirt or stones to lodge between the trunnions and head.
If the front wheel well height is higher than originally measured after connecting the trailer, reduce the number of links between the yoke hook and spring bar (minimum 4 links) and recheck the wheel well measurement. This will increase the downward pull on the spring bars and lower the front of the vehicle.
If the front wheel well is lower than originally measured after connecting the trailer, increase the number of chain links between the yoke hook and spring bar and recheck the wheel well measurement. This will decrease the downward pull on the spring bars and raise the front of the vehicle.
If the original wheel well height is not achievable, it is preferred that the wheel well height be lower after the spring bars are loaded. If there are no more chain links for adjustment, the head assembly must be tilted forward. Uncoupler the trailer and remove the upper bolt from the head assembly. Pivot the head up as appropriate, reassemble, and recheck the wheel well height.
If the trailer is not level after connection, you may need to re-adjust the ballmount angle and/or position. Check the spring bar height Y dimension using the table and verify that the ballmount is tilted correctly. The ballmount is adjustable through a 15° angle range.
The serrated washers must be aligned parallel with the teeth on the ballmount. If they are not properly aligned, the teeth can be stripped when loaded. After tightening the nut, re-check the washer alignment to ensure an equal number of teeth show at the top and bottom.
The chain must not bind when attached to the spring bars. If binding occurs, check that the snap-up bracket is positioned so that the chain at the end of the spring bar is approximately vertical. Adjust the bracket position if necessary.
This is a universal trunnion style weight distributing kit compatible with standard and integrated cam spring bars. Verify that your hitch ball is V-5 rated equal to or greater than your trailer's GVWR. Check your vehicle owner's manual if you have air springs, air shocks, or automatic leveling systems. For pole tongue trailers, a separate adapter is required.
You will need a wrench for torque work (450 ft/lbs for 1-1/4" ball nut, 300 ft/lbs for ballmount nuts). For the optional snap-up bracket bolt, you need drill bits (7/16", 9/16", 1/4") and a torque wrench capable of 50 ft/lbs.
Drilling is required only if you install the optional snap-up bracket additional bolt. You must drill a 9/16" hole in the bracket and a 1/4" pilot hole in the trailer frame. The main hitch installation does not require drilling.
Hitch ball nut: 450 ft/lbs (1-1/4" shank) or 250 ft/lbs (1" shank). High-performance ballmount nuts: 300 ft/lbs (or 150 ft/lbs plus 1/4 turn if torque wrench unavailable). Snap-up bracket self-tapping screw: 50 ft/lbs.
Loaded ball height must never be greater than uncoupled ball height. If it is, front wheel overload and loss of rear wheel traction can result, causing unstable handling and jackknifing. Adjust chain links to correct this before towing.
Lubricate trunnions each towing day before hooking up: one drop on top and forward side of upper trunnion, one drop on rear side of lower trunnion, and one or two drops on the hitch ball. Use heavy oil or grease. You can also lubricate upper trunnions via two oil holes in the ballmount top plate without unhooking.
Verify the trailer is level and all bolts are tight. Check that the hitch pin and clip are secure. Ensure there is room for the bar and chain to move when turning. Confirm the front wheel well height matches the original measurement (or is lower if adjustment was needed).
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Ordered online. Shipment arrived on time and with all the correct parts. Great customer service and friendly staff. Also, pricing was great!
May 22, 2023
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