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2003 Ford Fusion
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These dependable custom hitches are manufactured for 2006-2009 Ford Fusion, 2007-2009 Lincoln MKZ, 2006-2006 Lincoln Zephyr, 2003-2008 Mazda 6, 2006-2009 Mercury Milan and attach to your vehicle?s frame or bumper for a sleek, clean appearance. Each hitch also has a 1-1/4 inch square receiver tube opening so you can easily attach accessories like a bike rack or cargo carrier, or a utility trailer. DRAW-TITE Class 1 custom trailer hitches come complete with all the mounting hardware needed for installation and are backed by a nationwide lifetime limited warranty. So, whether you are headed out to the campground and need a place for the cooler, taking the bikes to hit the trails in the park, or you are tackling a DIY project (maybe some landscaping or a home repair), choose DRAW-TITE and travel with confidence knowing your setup is connected with the security only DRAW-TITE can provide. DRAW-TITE: North America?s Favorite Hitch.
Draw-Tite has designed custom-fit trailer hitches since 1946 and is one of North America's most widely fitted hitch brands. Receiver hitches use solid all-welded construction and low-profile designs that follow modern vehicle contours, install with minimal bumper cutting or drilling, meet or exceed V5 CSA and SAE J684 standards, and carry a limited lifetime warranty.
Draw-Tite has been leading custom-fit trailer hitch design and engineering since its founding in 1946, and it remains one of the most widely fitted hitch brands in North America. The company's stated approach is straightforward: every hitch is tested rigorously so that it performs well beyond published industry standards, a philosophy it markets as Tested Tough. It sits within the Horizon Global towing group alongside Reese, Fulton, Bulldog, Tekonsha, Bargman and Wesbar.
Custom fit is the defining characteristic. Rather than adapting a universal design, Draw-Tite engineers a trailer hitch for a specific make, model and model year, so it bolts to existing frame locations with minimal bumper cutting or drilling. Low-profile designs follow the rear contours and aerodynamic styling of modern vehicles, which matters more than it once did now that rear fascias are shaped and sensor-equipped. Construction is solid all-welded steel for maximum strength, and every hitch meets or exceeds V5 CSA and SAE J684 standards and is backed by a nationwide limited lifetime warranty.
The range spans receiver sizes and classes to suit different loads, from 1-1/4 inch receivers for bike racks, cargo carriers and light trailers up through 2 inch receivers for heavier towing. Front mount hitches add a receiver at the front of the vehicle for winch mounts, snow plows, spare carriers and precise trailer positioning.
The Hidden Hitch series takes concealment further by mounting behind the vehicle's rear fascia, so the vehicle keeps its factory appearance until a removable receiver is fitted. Each is custom designed per make and model for a no-drill installation that does not compromise ground clearance, rated for up to 3,500 pounds gross trailer weight and 350 pounds tongue weight. Matching plug-and-play wiring completes the towing system.
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Call 888-634-94941 compatible vehicles
| Year | Make & Model | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| 2003 | Ford Fusion | — |
The 2006-2009 Ford Fusion Draw-tite Class 1 Trailer Hitch, 1-1/4 Inch Square Receiver Bundle w/ Plug-n-Play T-One Wiring Harness (Part #DTB24775-118422) fits 2003 Ford Fusion models. The 2003 model year is the last year covered by this part number. For newer models, check for an updated version.
The 2006-2009 Ford Fusion Draw-tite Class 1 Trailer Hitch, 1-1/4 Inch Square Receiver Bundle w/ Plug-n-Play T-One Wiring Harness (Part #DTB24775-118422) fits the following vehicles: 2003 Ford Fusion. Always verify your specific year, make, and model before ordering.
Yes, the 2006-2009 Ford Fusion Draw-tite Class 1 Trailer Hitch, 1-1/4 Inch Square Receiver Bundle w/ Plug-n-Play T-One Wiring Harness (Part #DTB24775-118422) is designed to fit the 2003 Ford Fusion.
The 2006-2009 Ford Fusion Draw-tite Class 1 Trailer Hitch, 1-1/4 Inch Square Receiver Bundle w/ Plug-n-Play T-One Wiring Harness (Part #DTB24775-118422) Refer to the included instructions for installation details. Basic hand tools are typically all you need.
No. This hitch is designed for Mazda 6 Sedan and 5-Door models only and does not fit wagon versions.
Part number 24775 fits Ford Fusion, Mercury Milan, Lincoln Zephyr, and Lincoln MKZ.
The maximum gross trailer weight is 2000 lb (908 kg) and the maximum tongue weight is 200 lb (90.8 kg). Do not exceed the lower of the towing vehicle manufacturer's rating or these limits.
You will need wrenches in 12mm, 13mm, and 3/4 inch sizes, and a 1/2 inch drill bit. A pull wire is provided with the hitch.
Yes. The spare tire must be removed before drilling holes in the trunk pan (step 6). It is reinstalled after the hitch installation is complete (step 9).
Yes. The muffler must be lowered by removing three rubber isolator hangers—two located near the end of the muffler and one forward of the rear axle. The muffler is reinstalled after the hitch is secured.
Only if your vehicle's bumper does not have existing slots that align with the holes in the inner bumper strap. If slots exist, no drilling is required. If no slots exist, you must drill two 1/2 inch holes in the vehicle bumper using the hitch inner bumper straps as a template (step 4).
Only if your vehicle's trunk pan does not have existing holes. If holes are present, fasteners are installed through them. If no holes exist, you must remove the spare tire and use the hitch as a template to drill two 1/2 inch holes in the trunk pan (step 6).
No. Do not cut access or attachment holes with a torch. Use a drill with a 1/2 inch bit instead.
All 1/2-13 GR5 fasteners must be tightened to 75 lb.-ft. (102 N·m).
All 8mm fasteners must be tightened to 25 lb.-ft. (34 N·m).
The hitch includes: (2) hex bolts 1/2-13 x 1-1/2 inch Gr. 5 (item j), (2) carriage bolts 1/2-13 Gr. 5 (item k), (2) blocks 1/4 x 1 x 2 inch (item l), (2) blocks 3/16 x 1-1/2 x 2 inch (item m), (4) conical toothed washers 1/2 inch (item n), (4) nuts 1/2-13 (item o), and (2) bolts M8 x 1.25 x 35mm CL9.8 (item p). A pull wire is also provided.
The pull wire is used to carefully pull the carriage bolt and block through the existing slot or drilled hole in the bumper and hitch during step 5 of the installation.
The 8mm bolts through the upright brackets (step 3) are installed loosely initially. All fasteners are tightened to their final torque specifications after the hitch is fully positioned and all attachment points are secured (steps 5 and 6).
Care must be taken when sliding inner bumper straps under the fascia to prevent scratching the vehicle's paint or trim.
After drilling holes in the trunk pan, you must seal the holes to prevent intrusion of exhaust fumes or water (step 7).
Check the hitch frequently to ensure all fasteners and the ball are properly tightened. If the hitch is removed at any time, plug all holes in the trunk pan or other body panels to prevent entry of water and exhaust fumes.
Observe safety precautions when working beneath a vehicle and wear eye protection. Do not cut access or attachment holes with a torch. A damaged hitch or ball must be removed and replaced immediately.
No. The drawbar is sold separately. For Mazda 6, drawbar kit 3594 is available. For other vehicles, drawbar kit 3592 is available. The drawbar must be used in the rise position only.
The wiring access locations are PC3 and PC4.
No. This hitch (part 24775) fits Mazda 6 Sedan and 5-Door models only, not wagons.
You need 12mm, 13mm, and 3/4 inch wrenches, a 1/2 inch drill bit, and a pull wire (provided).
Possibly. Drilling is required only if your bumper lacks existing slots and your trunk pan lacks existing holes. If slots and holes are present, no drilling is needed.
Yes. Both must be removed before installation and reinstalled after the hitch is secured.
Tighten all 1/2-13 GR5 fasteners to 75 lb.-ft. (102 N·m) and all 8mm fasteners to 25 lb.-ft. (34 N·m).
Maximum gross trailer weight is 2000 lb (908 kg) and maximum tongue weight is 200 lb (90.8 kg). Do not exceed your vehicle manufacturer's rating.
Check the hitch frequently to ensure all fasteners and the ball are properly tightened. Seal any drilled holes in the trunk pan to prevent water and exhaust fume intrusion.
The T-Connector is a trailer wiring adapter that connects between your vehicle's taillight connectors and a trailer. It allows you to connect a trailer's electrical system to your vehicle's lighting circuits without permanently modifying the vehicle's wiring. The adapter includes a black box that mounts in the trunk and routes power from the battery through a fused connection to the trailer lights.
The manual does not specify which vehicle makes, models, or years are compatible with this T-Connector. Contact the manufacturer or your retailer with your vehicle's year, make, and model to confirm fitment before purchasing.
No. The T-Connector requires a vehicle with a rear cargo area that has accessible taillight housings with connection points matching the T-Connector adapter ends. The vehicle's wiring must be located inside the rear cargo area and accessible by partially removing the plastic threshold cover and felt trunk liner. Not all vehicles meet these requirements.
You will need: a drill with a 3/32" drill bit, a Phillips head screwdriver, a 10mm socket and ratchet (or 10mm wrench), wire crimpers, and wire cutters. These are the minimum tools required to complete the installation.
The T-Connector package includes: the T-Connector adapter with yellow, red, and green wires; a black box; yellow butt connectors; a white wire with eyelet and screw for grounding; a yellow fuse holder with a 10 amp fuse; cable ties; double-sided tape; and a 4-flat connector for storage in the rear cargo area when not in use.
Yes. You must disconnect the vehicle's negative (−) battery cable before connecting the fuse holder to the positive (+) battery cable in step 8. After all connections are complete, you reconnect the negative battery cable and install the 10 amp fuse into the fuse holder.
The manual does not specify whether professional installation is required or recommended. However, the installation involves battery disconnection, drilling, wire routing, and electrical connections. If you are not comfortable working with vehicle electrical systems or drilling into your vehicle, consult a professional installer.
1. Locate the vehicle wiring inside the rear cargo area by partially removing the plastic threshold cover and felt trunk liner. 2. Separate the vehicle's taillight connectors. 3. Insert the T-Connector between the separated connectors, ensuring the mating surfaces match and connectors are fully inserted with locking tabs in place. 4. On the driver's side, attach the T-Connector ends with yellow and red wires. 5. Route the T-Connector with the green wire below the threshold cover to the passenger's side taillight housing and repeat the connection process.
Before inserting the T-Connector, verify that the mating surfaces of your vehicle's wiring connectors match the T-Connector ends. All connector surfaces must be clean and free of dirt. Be careful not to damage the locking tabs during insertion, and ensure that connectors are fully inserted with locking tabs in place.
Yes. You must drill a 3/32" hole to secure the white grounding wire using the eyelet and screw provided. The hole should be drilled in a suitable grounding point near the connector, such as the vehicle's frame or cross member. You must not drill into the vehicle floor or bed.
Drill the 3/32" hole at a suitable grounding point near the connector, such as the vehicle's frame or cross member. Do not drill into the vehicle floor or bed. Before drilling, clean dirt and rustproofing from the area. Always verify what is behind any surface before drilling to avoid damage to the vehicle and personal injury.
You need a 3/32" drill bit to create the hole for the white grounding wire eyelet and screw.
The T-Connector includes: yellow and red wires that connect to the driver's side taillight housing; a green wire that connects to the passenger's side taillight housing; a black 12 gauge wire that routes to the vehicle's battery; and a white wire that grounds to the vehicle's frame or cross member. Inside the trunk, the black and red wires are connected together using a yellow butt connector.
From inside the trunk, connect the black 12 gauge wire and the red wire from the T-Connector black box together using the supplied yellow butt connector.
Route the black wire from inside the trunk into the engine compartment and up to the battery. Take care to avoid any hot pipes, heat shields, the fuel tank, or any other points that may pinch or break the wire.
The T-Connector uses a 10 amp fuse. The fuse holder connects between the black 12 gauge wire and the vehicle's positive (+) battery cable. The ring terminal of the fuse holder is secured to the positive battery cable, and the other end of the fuse holder connects to the black wire using a yellow butt connector. The fuse is installed after all other connections are complete.
1. Disconnect the vehicle's negative (−) battery cable. 2. Remove the fuse from the yellow fuse holder if present. 3. Cut the fuse holder wire. 4. Attach the ring terminal to the vehicle's positive (+) battery cable and secure it. 5. Connect the other end of the fuse holder to the black 12 gauge wire using the yellow butt connector. 6. Reconnect the negative battery cable. 7. Install the 10 amp fuse into the fuse holder.
Locate a suitable grounding point near the connector, such as the vehicle's frame or cross member. Clean dirt and rustproofing from the area. Drill a 3/32" hole and secure the white wire using the eyelet and screw provided. Do not drill into the vehicle floor or bed.
Do not exceed the lower of your towing manufacturer's rating or these limits: maximum 1 stop/turn light per side at 2.1 amps, and maximum tail lights at 4.2 amps. Overloading the circuit can cause fires. Consult your vehicle's owner's manual and instruction sheet for additional information.
Wear safety glasses during installation. Verify what is behind any surface before drilling to avoid damage to the vehicle and personal injury. Do not drill into exposed surfaces or the vehicle floor or bed. Route the black wire carefully to avoid hot pipes, heat shields, the fuel tank, or any points that may pinch or break the wire. Ensure all connections are complete before testing the T-Connector.
After installation is complete, test and verify the T-Connector with a test light or by connecting a trailer. All connections must be complete for the T-Connector to function properly. If the lights do not work, check that all connectors are fully inserted with locking tabs in place, all wire connections are secure, and the 10 amp fuse is installed.
Secure the remainder of the T-Connector harness with the cable ties provided to prevent damage or rattling. Take care to avoid any areas that would cut or pinch the wire. Mount the T-Connector black box on the driver's side floor of the rear cargo area using the double-sided tape provided. First clean a flat area using a mixture of rubbing alcohol and water.
Store the 4-flat connector in the rear cargo area (trunk or cargo bed) when the T-Connector is not in use.
The T-Connector fits vehicles with a rear cargo area and accessible taillight housings with connection points matching the adapter. Confirm compatibility with the manufacturer or retailer using your vehicle's year, make, and model before purchasing.
You need a drill with 3/32" bit, Phillips head screwdriver, 10mm socket/ratchet or wrench, wire crimpers, and wire cutters.
Yes, disconnect the negative battery cable before connecting the fuse holder to the positive battery cable. Reconnect it after all connections are complete.
The T-Connector uses a 10 amp fuse in the yellow fuse holder that connects between the black wire and the vehicle's positive battery cable.
Do not exceed 1 stop/turn light per side (2.1 amps) or tail lights (4.2 amps), or your towing manufacturer's lower rating. Overloading can cause fires.
Verify the following in order: (1) Ensure the 10 amp fuse is installed in the yellow fuse holder. (2) Check that all T-Connector ends are fully inserted into the taillight connectors with locking tabs in place on both driver's and passenger's sides. (3) Confirm the black and red wires are connected together with a yellow butt connector inside the trunk. (4) Verify the white grounding wire is securely fastened to the vehicle's frame or cross member with the eyelet and screw. (5) Check that the black wire is routed properly to the battery and the ring terminal is securely attached to the positive battery cable. (6) Ensure the fuse holder is properly connected between the black wire and the positive battery cable. If all connections are complete and secure, test with a test light or trailer to verify function.
A repeatedly blown 10 amp fuse indicates an electrical overload or short circuit. Check that: (1) the total electrical load does not exceed 1 stop/turn light per side (2.1 amps) and tail lights (4.2 amps), or your towing manufacturer's lower rating; (2) all wire connections are secure and properly insulated with no exposed copper; (3) the white grounding wire is securely fastened and making good contact with the vehicle's frame; (4) no wires are pinched, cut, or damaged; and (5) the trailer's electrical system is functioning correctly and not drawing excessive current. If the fuse continues to blow after verifying these items, there may be a short circuit in the wiring or trailer system that requires professional diagnosis.
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