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1999 - 2004 Ford Fusion
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These dependable custom hitches are manufactured for 2010-2012 Ford Fusion, 2010-2012 Lincoln MKZ, 2010-2011 Mercury Milan and attach to your vehicle?s frame or bumper for a sleek, clean appearance. Each hitch also has a 1-1/4 inch square receiver tube opening so you can easily attach accessories like a bike rack or cargo carrier, or a utility trailer. DRAW-TITE Class 1 custom trailer hitches come complete with all the mounting hardware needed for installation and are backed by a nationwide lifetime limited warranty. So, whether you are headed out to the campground and need a place for the cooler, taking the bikes to hit the trails in the park, or you are tackling a DIY project (maybe some landscaping or a home repair), choose DRAW-TITE and travel with confidence knowing your setup is connected with the security only DRAW-TITE can provide. DRAW-TITE: North America?s Favorite Hitch.
Draw-Tite has designed custom-fit trailer hitches since 1946 and is one of North America's most widely fitted hitch brands. Receiver hitches use solid all-welded construction and low-profile designs that follow modern vehicle contours, install with minimal bumper cutting or drilling, meet or exceed V5 CSA and SAE J684 standards, and carry a limited lifetime warranty.
Draw-Tite has been leading custom-fit trailer hitch design and engineering since its founding in 1946, and it remains one of the most widely fitted hitch brands in North America. The company's stated approach is straightforward: every hitch is tested rigorously so that it performs well beyond published industry standards, a philosophy it markets as Tested Tough. It sits within the Horizon Global towing group alongside Reese, Fulton, Bulldog, Tekonsha, Bargman and Wesbar.
Custom fit is the defining characteristic. Rather than adapting a universal design, Draw-Tite engineers a trailer hitch for a specific make, model and model year, so it bolts to existing frame locations with minimal bumper cutting or drilling. Low-profile designs follow the rear contours and aerodynamic styling of modern vehicles, which matters more than it once did now that rear fascias are shaped and sensor-equipped. Construction is solid all-welded steel for maximum strength, and every hitch meets or exceeds V5 CSA and SAE J684 standards and is backed by a nationwide limited lifetime warranty.
The range spans receiver sizes and classes to suit different loads, from 1-1/4 inch receivers for bike racks, cargo carriers and light trailers up through 2 inch receivers for heavier towing. Front mount hitches add a receiver at the front of the vehicle for winch mounts, snow plows, spare carriers and precise trailer positioning.
The Hidden Hitch series takes concealment further by mounting behind the vehicle's rear fascia, so the vehicle keeps its factory appearance until a removable receiver is fitted. Each is custom designed per make and model for a no-drill installation that does not compromise ground clearance, rated for up to 3,500 pounds gross trailer weight and 350 pounds tongue weight. Matching plug-and-play wiring completes the towing system.
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Call 888-634-94941 compatible vehicles
| Year | Make & Model | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| 1999 - 2004 | Ford Fusion | — |
Yes, the 2010-2012 Ford Fusion Draw-tite Class 1 Trailer Hitch, 1-1/4 Inch Square Receiver Bundle w/ Plug-n-Play T-One Wiring Harness (Part #DTB24865-118422) is designed to fit the 1999-2004 Ford Fusion.
The 2010-2012 Ford Fusion Draw-tite Class 1 Trailer Hitch, 1-1/4 Inch Square Receiver Bundle w/ Plug-n-Play T-One Wiring Harness (Part #DTB24865-118422) fits 1999-2004 Ford Fusion models. The 2004 model year is the last year covered by this part number. For newer models, check for an updated version.
The 2010-2012 Ford Fusion Draw-tite Class 1 Trailer Hitch, 1-1/4 Inch Square Receiver Bundle w/ Plug-n-Play T-One Wiring Harness (Part #DTB24865-118422) fits the following vehicles: 1999-2004 Ford Fusion. Always verify your specific year, make, and model before ordering.
The 2010-2012 Ford Fusion Draw-tite Class 1 Trailer Hitch, 1-1/4 Inch Square Receiver Bundle w/ Plug-n-Play T-One Wiring Harness (Part #DTB24865-118422) Refer to the included instructions for installation details. Basic hand tools are typically all you need.
Yes, part number 24865 is designed for Ford Fusion, Mercury Milan, and Lincoln MKZ models from 2010, 2011, and 2015. The manual covers these three vehicles and model years only.
The maximum gross trailer weight is 2000 lb (908 kg) and the maximum tongue weight is 200 lb (90.8 kg). Do not exceed the lower of the towing vehicle manufacturer's rating or these limits.
You need an 11/16" wrench and a torque wrench. The pullwire is provided with the hitch. Lubricant or soapy water is also required to help remove the exhaust isolators.
The hitch includes four carriage bolts (7/16-14 x 1-1/4" Grade 5), four conical washers (7/16"), four spacers (1" x 2" x 3/16"), and four nuts (7/16-14). These are shown in the parts diagram and are the only fasteners needed for installation.
Yes. Step 1 requires you to lower the exhaust pipe by removing the rubber isolator(s) at the muffler(s) and one isolator near the rear suspension. Support the exhaust to prevent damage. Spraying lubricant on the metal hanger rod and rubber isolator helps with removal. The exhaust is raised back into position in Step 7 after the hitch is secured.
Use the provided pullwires to feed the spacers and carriage bolts into the forward hole position on both frame rails. The access hole is located at the end of the frame rail and before the impact bar. It is easier if the bolt and spacer are not engaged (not threaded together) while inserting them into the frame. Keep the pullwire attached after insertion. In Step 3, feed the carriage bolt and spacer through the rearward slots on the bottom of the frame rails using the pullwires. You may need to insert the carriage bolt at an angle. Leave the pullwires in position to help locate the bolt when positioning the hitch.
1. Lower the exhaust system by removing rubber isolators. 2. Feed spacers and carriage bolts into the forward hole position on both frame rails using pullwires. 3. Feed the carriage bolt and spacer through the rearward slots using pullwires. 4. Raise the hitch into position, feeding pullwires through the bracket holes. 5. Remove pullwires and attach conical washers and nuts. 6. Torque all fasteners to specification. 7. Raise the exhaust system back into position.
All 7/16" fasteners must be tightened to 50 lb-ft (68 N·m) using a torque wrench.
The pullwires are used to feed the spacers and carriage bolts into the frame rails. In Step 2, feed them into the forward hole position and leave the pullwire attached. In Step 3, use the pullwires to feed the carriage bolt and spacer through the rearward slots, and leave them in position to help locate the bolt when positioning the hitch. In Step 4, feed the pullwires through the holes on the bracket as you raise the hitch into position. In Step 5, remove the pullwires after the hitch is in place.
When removing pullwires and attaching conical washers and nuts in Step 5, be careful not to push fasteners back into the frame rail. The conical washers help prevent this by providing a wider bearing surface.
Observe safety precautions when working beneath the vehicle and wear eye protection. Do not cut access or attachment holes with a torch. Support the exhaust system to prevent damage when lowering it. If the hitch is removed, plug all holes in the trunk pan or other body panels to prevent entry of water and exhaust fumes.
The drawbar must be used in the RISE position only. The drawbar kit (part number 3594) is sold separately.
Check the hitch frequently to ensure all fasteners and the ball are properly tightened. The manual recommends regular inspection to maintain safe operation.
A hitch or ball which has been damaged should be removed and replaced. Do not attempt to repair a damaged hitch or ball.
This product complies with safety specifications and requirements for connecting devices and towing systems of the state of New York, V.E.S.C. Regulation V-5 and SAE J684.
Yes, if you have a Ford Fusion, Mercury Milan, or Lincoln MKZ from 2010, 2011, or 2015. Other model years and vehicles are not supported.
An 11/16" wrench, a torque wrench, and lubricant or soapy water. The pullwire is provided.
Yes, you must lower the exhaust system by removing rubber isolators at the muffler(s) and near the rear suspension. The exhaust is then raised back into position after the hitch is installed.
Tighten all 7/16" fasteners to 50 lb-ft (68 N·m) using a torque wrench.
Maximum gross trailer weight is 2000 lb (908 kg) and maximum tongue weight is 200 lb (90.8 kg). Do not exceed your vehicle manufacturer's rating.
The drawbar must be used in the RISE position only. The drawbar kit (3594) is sold separately.
The T-Connector is a trailer wiring adapter that connects between your vehicle's taillight connectors and a trailer. It allows you to connect a trailer's electrical system to your vehicle's lighting circuits without permanently modifying the vehicle's wiring. The adapter includes a black box that mounts in the trunk and routes power from the battery through a fused connection to the trailer lights.
The manual does not specify which vehicle makes, models, or years are compatible with this T-Connector. Contact the manufacturer or your retailer with your vehicle's year, make, and model to confirm fitment before purchasing.
No. The T-Connector requires a vehicle with a rear cargo area that has accessible taillight housings with connection points matching the T-Connector adapter ends. The vehicle's wiring must be located inside the rear cargo area and accessible by partially removing the plastic threshold cover and felt trunk liner. Not all vehicles meet these requirements.
You will need: a drill with a 3/32" drill bit, a Phillips head screwdriver, a 10mm socket and ratchet (or 10mm wrench), wire crimpers, and wire cutters. These are the minimum tools required to complete the installation.
The T-Connector package includes: the T-Connector adapter with yellow, red, and green wires; a black box; yellow butt connectors; a white wire with eyelet and screw for grounding; a yellow fuse holder with a 10 amp fuse; cable ties; double-sided tape; and a 4-flat connector for storage in the rear cargo area when not in use.
Yes. You must disconnect the vehicle's negative (−) battery cable before connecting the fuse holder to the positive (+) battery cable in step 8. After all connections are complete, you reconnect the negative battery cable and install the 10 amp fuse into the fuse holder.
The manual does not specify whether professional installation is required or recommended. However, the installation involves battery disconnection, drilling, wire routing, and electrical connections. If you are not comfortable working with vehicle electrical systems or drilling into your vehicle, consult a professional installer.
1. Locate the vehicle wiring inside the rear cargo area by partially removing the plastic threshold cover and felt trunk liner. 2. Separate the vehicle's taillight connectors. 3. Insert the T-Connector between the separated connectors, ensuring the mating surfaces match and connectors are fully inserted with locking tabs in place. 4. On the driver's side, attach the T-Connector ends with yellow and red wires. 5. Route the T-Connector with the green wire below the threshold cover to the passenger's side taillight housing and repeat the connection process.
Before inserting the T-Connector, verify that the mating surfaces of your vehicle's wiring connectors match the T-Connector ends. All connector surfaces must be clean and free of dirt. Be careful not to damage the locking tabs during insertion, and ensure that connectors are fully inserted with locking tabs in place.
Yes. You must drill a 3/32" hole to secure the white grounding wire using the eyelet and screw provided. The hole should be drilled in a suitable grounding point near the connector, such as the vehicle's frame or cross member. You must not drill into the vehicle floor or bed.
Drill the 3/32" hole at a suitable grounding point near the connector, such as the vehicle's frame or cross member. Do not drill into the vehicle floor or bed. Before drilling, clean dirt and rustproofing from the area. Always verify what is behind any surface before drilling to avoid damage to the vehicle and personal injury.
You need a 3/32" drill bit to create the hole for the white grounding wire eyelet and screw.
The T-Connector includes: yellow and red wires that connect to the driver's side taillight housing; a green wire that connects to the passenger's side taillight housing; a black 12 gauge wire that routes to the vehicle's battery; and a white wire that grounds to the vehicle's frame or cross member. Inside the trunk, the black and red wires are connected together using a yellow butt connector.
From inside the trunk, connect the black 12 gauge wire and the red wire from the T-Connector black box together using the supplied yellow butt connector.
Route the black wire from inside the trunk into the engine compartment and up to the battery. Take care to avoid any hot pipes, heat shields, the fuel tank, or any other points that may pinch or break the wire.
The T-Connector uses a 10 amp fuse. The fuse holder connects between the black 12 gauge wire and the vehicle's positive (+) battery cable. The ring terminal of the fuse holder is secured to the positive battery cable, and the other end of the fuse holder connects to the black wire using a yellow butt connector. The fuse is installed after all other connections are complete.
1. Disconnect the vehicle's negative (−) battery cable. 2. Remove the fuse from the yellow fuse holder if present. 3. Cut the fuse holder wire. 4. Attach the ring terminal to the vehicle's positive (+) battery cable and secure it. 5. Connect the other end of the fuse holder to the black 12 gauge wire using the yellow butt connector. 6. Reconnect the negative battery cable. 7. Install the 10 amp fuse into the fuse holder.
Locate a suitable grounding point near the connector, such as the vehicle's frame or cross member. Clean dirt and rustproofing from the area. Drill a 3/32" hole and secure the white wire using the eyelet and screw provided. Do not drill into the vehicle floor or bed.
Do not exceed the lower of your towing manufacturer's rating or these limits: maximum 1 stop/turn light per side at 2.1 amps, and maximum tail lights at 4.2 amps. Overloading the circuit can cause fires. Consult your vehicle's owner's manual and instruction sheet for additional information.
Wear safety glasses during installation. Verify what is behind any surface before drilling to avoid damage to the vehicle and personal injury. Do not drill into exposed surfaces or the vehicle floor or bed. Route the black wire carefully to avoid hot pipes, heat shields, the fuel tank, or any points that may pinch or break the wire. Ensure all connections are complete before testing the T-Connector.
After installation is complete, test and verify the T-Connector with a test light or by connecting a trailer. All connections must be complete for the T-Connector to function properly. If the lights do not work, check that all connectors are fully inserted with locking tabs in place, all wire connections are secure, and the 10 amp fuse is installed.
Secure the remainder of the T-Connector harness with the cable ties provided to prevent damage or rattling. Take care to avoid any areas that would cut or pinch the wire. Mount the T-Connector black box on the driver's side floor of the rear cargo area using the double-sided tape provided. First clean a flat area using a mixture of rubbing alcohol and water.
Store the 4-flat connector in the rear cargo area (trunk or cargo bed) when the T-Connector is not in use.
The T-Connector fits vehicles with a rear cargo area and accessible taillight housings with connection points matching the adapter. Confirm compatibility with the manufacturer or retailer using your vehicle's year, make, and model before purchasing.
You need a drill with 3/32" bit, Phillips head screwdriver, 10mm socket/ratchet or wrench, wire crimpers, and wire cutters.
Yes, disconnect the negative battery cable before connecting the fuse holder to the positive battery cable. Reconnect it after all connections are complete.
The T-Connector uses a 10 amp fuse in the yellow fuse holder that connects between the black wire and the vehicle's positive battery cable.
Do not exceed 1 stop/turn light per side (2.1 amps) or tail lights (4.2 amps), or your towing manufacturer's lower rating. Overloading can cause fires.
Verify the following in order: (1) Ensure the 10 amp fuse is installed in the yellow fuse holder. (2) Check that all T-Connector ends are fully inserted into the taillight connectors with locking tabs in place on both driver's and passenger's sides. (3) Confirm the black and red wires are connected together with a yellow butt connector inside the trunk. (4) Verify the white grounding wire is securely fastened to the vehicle's frame or cross member with the eyelet and screw. (5) Check that the black wire is routed properly to the battery and the ring terminal is securely attached to the positive battery cable. (6) Ensure the fuse holder is properly connected between the black wire and the positive battery cable. If all connections are complete and secure, test with a test light or trailer to verify function.
A repeatedly blown 10 amp fuse indicates an electrical overload or short circuit. Check that: (1) the total electrical load does not exceed 1 stop/turn light per side (2.1 amps) and tail lights (4.2 amps), or your towing manufacturer's lower rating; (2) all wire connections are secure and properly insulated with no exposed copper; (3) the white grounding wire is securely fastened and making good contact with the vehicle's frame; (4) no wires are pinched, cut, or damaged; and (5) the trailer's electrical system is functioning correctly and not drawing excessive current. If the fuse continues to blow after verifying these items, there may be a short circuit in the wiring or trailer system that requires professional diagnosis.
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