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2006 - 2010 Dodge Charger
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These durable custom hitches are manufactured for 2005-2023 Chrysler 300, 2008-2022 Dodge Challenger, 2006-2023 Dodge Charger, 2005-2008 Dodge Magnum and attach to your vehicle?s frame or bumper for a sleek, clean appearance. Each hitch also has a 2 inch square receiver tube opening ? the most common and versatile on the market - allowing you to attach accessories like a bike rack or cargo carrier, or hook up your pop-up, boat trailer, or utility trailer. The options are endless! DRAW-TITE Class 3 Custom Trailer Hitches come complete with all the mounting hardware needed for installation and are backed by a nationwide lifetime limited warranty. So, whether you are headed out to the campground, the lake, or the bike trails, or you are tackling a project at home and need to haul the materials home, choose DRAW-TITE and travel with confidence knowing your setup is connected with the security only DRAW-TITE can provide. DRAW-TITE: North America?s Favorite Hitch
Draw-Tite has designed custom-fit trailer hitches since 1946 and is one of North America's most widely fitted hitch brands. Receiver hitches use solid all-welded construction and low-profile designs that follow modern vehicle contours, install with minimal bumper cutting or drilling, meet or exceed V5 CSA and SAE J684 standards, and carry a limited lifetime warranty.
Draw-Tite has been leading custom-fit trailer hitch design and engineering since its founding in 1946, and it remains one of the most widely fitted hitch brands in North America. The company's stated approach is straightforward: every hitch is tested rigorously so that it performs well beyond published industry standards, a philosophy it markets as Tested Tough. It sits within the Horizon Global towing group alongside Reese, Fulton, Bulldog, Tekonsha, Bargman and Wesbar.
Custom fit is the defining characteristic. Rather than adapting a universal design, Draw-Tite engineers a trailer hitch for a specific make, model and model year, so it bolts to existing frame locations with minimal bumper cutting or drilling. Low-profile designs follow the rear contours and aerodynamic styling of modern vehicles, which matters more than it once did now that rear fascias are shaped and sensor-equipped. Construction is solid all-welded steel for maximum strength, and every hitch meets or exceeds V5 CSA and SAE J684 standards and is backed by a nationwide limited lifetime warranty.
The range spans receiver sizes and classes to suit different loads, from 1-1/4 inch receivers for bike racks, cargo carriers and light trailers up through 2 inch receivers for heavier towing. Front mount hitches add a receiver at the front of the vehicle for winch mounts, snow plows, spare carriers and precise trailer positioning.
The Hidden Hitch series takes concealment further by mounting behind the vehicle's rear fascia, so the vehicle keeps its factory appearance until a removable receiver is fitted. Each is custom designed per make and model for a no-drill installation that does not compromise ground clearance, rated for up to 3,500 pounds gross trailer weight and 350 pounds tongue weight. Matching plug-and-play wiring completes the towing system.
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Call 888-634-94941 compatible vehicles
| Year | Make & Model | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| 2006 - 2010 | Dodge Charger | — |
The 2006-2010 Dodge Charger Draw-tite Class 3 Trailer Hitch, 2 Inch Square Receiver Bundle w/ Plug-n-Play T-One Wiring Harness (Part #DTB76145-4-118404) fits the following vehicles: 2006-2010 Dodge Charger. Always verify your specific year, make, and model before ordering.
The 2006-2010 Dodge Charger Draw-tite Class 3 Trailer Hitch, 2 Inch Square Receiver Bundle w/ Plug-n-Play T-One Wiring Harness (Part #DTB76145-4-118404) fits 2006-2010 Dodge Charger models. The 2010 model year is the last year covered by this part number. For newer models, check for an updated version.
Yes, the 2006-2010 Dodge Charger Draw-tite Class 3 Trailer Hitch, 2 Inch Square Receiver Bundle w/ Plug-n-Play T-One Wiring Harness (Part #DTB76145-4-118404) is designed to fit the 2006-2010 Dodge Charger.
The 2006-2010 Dodge Charger Draw-tite Class 3 Trailer Hitch, 2 Inch Square Receiver Bundle w/ Plug-n-Play T-One Wiring Harness (Part #DTB76145-4-118404) Refer to the included instructions for installation details. Basic hand tools are typically all you need.
Yes, part 76145 fits 2008 and newer Dodge Challengers, except those with quad exhaust tips. Verify your vehicle does not have quad exhaust tips before purchasing.
Yes, part 76145 fits 2005 and newer Chrysler 300 models.
No. Part 76145 does not fit Dodge Challengers with quad exhaust tips. The hitch will interfere with the quad exhaust configuration.
No. Part 76145 is designed for 2005 and newer Chrysler 300 models. The 2004 model year is not supported.
Required tools: ratchet, torque wrench, safety glasses, sockets (8 mm, 10 mm, 13 mm, 15 mm, 18 mm, and 3/4 inch), socket extension, universal joint socket, flat-head screwdriver, and plastic trim tools.
For 2011 and newer models, the vehicle must be raised a minimum of 20 inches (measured from bottom of fascia to ground) to allow access to the frame rails and exhaust system.
Torque all ½ inch fasteners to 75 ft-lb (102 N·m). Torque the M12 bolt to 68 ft-lb (92 N·m). Proper torque is critical for safety when towing.
Part 76145 is a weight-carrying hitch with a maximum gross trailer weight of 4500 lb (2041 kg) and maximum tongue weight of 675 lb (306 kg). Do not exceed the lower of your vehicle manufacturer's towing rating or these limits.
No drilling is required. The hitch uses existing weldnuts on the frame rails and existing exhaust hanger attachment points. The manual explicitly states: do not cut access or attachment holes with a torch.
Fascia removal is required only on vehicles with welded exhaust systems where the exhaust tips are riveted to the fascia. On vehicles with separable exhaust (pre-2011 and some 2011+), fascia removal is not necessary. Check your exhaust configuration before starting installation.
Fastener kit 76145F includes: (3) carriage bolts ½"-13 x 1.50 GR5, (3) spacers 1" x 3", (3) hex nuts ½", (4) conical tooth washers ½", (1) bolt M12 CL10.9, and (3) fish wires ½-13. All fasteners are included; no additional hardware is required.
Yes, part 76145 fits 2006 and newer Dodge Chargers.
Yes, part 76145 fits 2005-2008 Dodge Magnum models. Compatibility for 2009 and newer Magnums is not listed in the manual.
The manual does not list 2009 or newer Dodge Magnum models as compatible. Part 76145 is confirmed only for 2005-2008 Magnum models. Contact Cequent at 800-632-3290 or visit their website to verify compatibility for 2009 and newer years.
Pre-2011 vehicles with separable exhaust take approximately 30 minutes to install. 2011 and newer vehicles with welded exhaust assemblies and riveted exhaust tips (requiring fascia removal) take approximately 50 minutes. These times are averages for professional installers.
Muffler removal is required on 2011 and newer models. On pre-2011 models, the muffler is not removed; instead, the exhaust is lowered by removing the exhaust hangers. The hitch slides over the mufflers during installation.
Remove the exhaust hangers using a 13 mm socket. Spray lubricant or soapy water on the metal hanger rod and rubber isolator to ease removal. On vehicles with dual exhaust, remove hangers from both sides. On 2011 and newer models, also remove rubber isolators from hangers on exhaust pipes forward of the trunk pan for additional clearance.
Fish wire (½-13) is used to route the ½ inch carriage bolts and spacers through the access holes in the driver and passenger side frame rails. The fish wire pulls the hardware through the existing holes in the frame. The manual shows kinking the fish wire to keep the spacer independent of the bolt.
Two (2) carriage bolts and spacers go through the passenger side frame rail access hole. One (1) carriage bolt and spacer go through the driver side frame rail access hole. Total: three bolts and three spacers.
The conical tooth washer (½ inch) is a locking washer with teeth on one side. Install it with the teeth side facing against the hitch. Four conical tooth washers are included in the fastener kit. They are used under the ½ inch fasteners and under the M12 bolt to prevent loosening during towing.
The spacers (1 inch x 3 inch) are used with the ½ inch carriage bolts to create proper spacing and alignment when fastening the hitch to the frame rails through the access holes. Three spacers are included in the fastener kit.
Run the M12 bolt into the existing weldnut to clean dirt or debris from the weldnut. This is done before raising the hitch into position. Perform this step on both pre-2011 and 2011+ installations.
1. Lower exhaust by removing exhaust hangers (13 mm socket). 2. Clean weldnut with M12 bolt. 3. Fish carriage bolts and spacers through frame rail access holes. 4. Raise hitch over mufflers and loosely install M12 bolt and conical tooth washer into weldnut. 5. Install ½ inch conical tooth washers and nuts. 6. Torque all ½ inch fasteners to 75 ft-lb (102 N·m) and M12 bolt to 68 ft-lb (92 N·m). 7. Reinstall exhaust hangers.
1. Remove plastic appearance panels (Chrysler 300/300C only). 2. Lower exhaust by removing hangers (13 mm socket). 3. Remove muffler (V8: save assembly bolts and springs; V6: save band clamp). 4. Clean weldnut with M12 bolt. 5. Fish carriage bolts and spacers through frame rail access holes. 6. Raise passenger side bracket over passenger muffler, support it, loosely install M12 bolt and conical tooth washer through bracket into driver side frame rail, push passenger muffler up and outward, install ½ inch conical tooth washers and nuts. 7. Torque all ½ inch fasteners to 75 ft-lb (102 N·m) and M12 bolt to 68 ft-lb (92 N·m). 8. Reinstall exhaust hangers. 9. Reinstall wiring and bumper fascia.
On 2011 and newer V8 models, remove and save the (2) assembly bolts and springs from the flange (nut and spring are attached). Carefully remove the muffler from the driver's side. These bolts and springs must be saved for reinstallation after the hitch is installed.
On 2011 and newer V6 models, remove and save the band clamp located just before the "Y" connection on the exhaust. Separate the exhaust pipes and remove the muffler. Carefully remove the muffler from the driver's side. The band clamp must be saved for reinstallation.
Plastic appearance panel removal is required only on Chrysler 300 and 300C models. The panels cover the trunk pan and must be removed to access the frame rails. After installation, return the panels and fasteners to the vehicle owner.
Remove plastic expansion fasteners holding the wheel well liner to the fascia (each side). Pull back the wheel well liner to access the hidden screw (10 mm socket) holding the upper fascia to the quarter panel (each side). Remove remaining screws and plastic expansion fasteners along the bottom of the fascia, including the 10 mm nuts holding the underbody panel to the trunk pan. Gently remove the fascia and unplug wiring. Set the bumper fascia aside.
Loosely install the M12 bolt and conical tooth washer before installing the ½ inch fasteners. This holds the hitch in position. Then install the ½ inch conical tooth washers and nuts. Finally, torque all fasteners to their specified values in the final step. Do not fully tighten fasteners until all are in place.
Torque the M12 bolt to 68 ft-lb (92 N·m). This is the final torque specification after all fasteners are installed.
Torque all ½ inch fasteners (carriage bolts and hex nuts) to 75 ft-lb (102 N·m). This includes the three ½ inch fasteners on the frame rails and the ½ inch conical tooth washers and nuts.
After installation, verify that all fasteners are tight and the hitch is securely mounted to the vehicle. Check the hitch frequently during use to ensure all fasteners and the ball remain properly tightened. Proper torque is critical for safety when towing.
If the hitch is removed, plug all holes in the trunk pan or other body panels to prevent entry of water and exhaust fumes. This prevents corrosion and damage to the vehicle interior.
The maximum tongue weight is 675 lb (306 kg). Do not exceed this limit or the lower of your vehicle manufacturer's towing rating.
If excessive sway occurs, take your foot off the gas pedal and hold the steering wheel as steady as possible. Do not apply your brakes and do not speed up. Reduce speed and maintain steady steering until the sway subsides.
Load the trailer heavier in front. This means the weight should be distributed so that the front of the trailer (near the tongue) is heavier than the rear. This improves stability and handling when towing.
Always wear safety glasses when installing the hitch. Observe safety precautions when working beneath a vehicle and wear eye protection. Do not cut access or attachment holes with a torch. Do not cut, weld, or modify the receiver.
Check the hitch frequently, making sure all fasteners and the ball are properly tightened. The manual does not specify an exact interval, but recommends periodic checks during use to ensure safety when towing.
A hitch or ball which has been damaged should be removed and replaced. Do not attempt to repair a damaged hitch. Contact Cequent at 800-632-3290 for replacement parts.
Run the M12 bolt into the existing weldnut to clean dirt or debris from the weldnut before raising the hitch into position. This ensures a clean connection and proper torque application.
Spray a lubricant or soapy water on the metal hanger rod and the rubber isolator to ease removal. Allow the lubricant to soak for a few minutes before attempting to remove the hanger again.
Gently push the passenger side muffler up and outward for clearance. If additional clearance is needed, remove the rubber isolators from the exhaust hangers on the exhaust pipes forward of the trunk pan. This provides additional space to position the hitch bracket.
The T-Connector is an electrical adapter that integrates your vehicle's taillight wiring with a trailer connection. It allows you to connect a trailer to your vehicle's existing lighting system by tapping into the taillight circuits. The connector uses color-coded wires (yellow, green, and white) to match your vehicle's lighting circuits and ground.
The manual does not specify which vehicle models, years, or body styles the T-Connector fits. Contact the manufacturer or your retailer with your vehicle's year, make, model, and body style (sedan, truck, SUV, etc.) to confirm compatibility before purchase.
You will need a drill with a 3/32" drill bit and a Phillips head screwdriver. The manual recommends these tools for drilling the grounding hole and securing fasteners.
The T-Connector includes an eyelet and screw for securing the white ground wire to the vehicle frame or crossmember. The manual does not specify whether additional fasteners or connectors are included.
The manual does not specify whether the battery must be disconnected. Consult your vehicle's owner's manual or a qualified installer for guidance on electrical safety before beginning installation.
The vehicle wiring is located inside the vehicle's trunk, behind the taillights. You will access it by removing plastic wing nuts located behind the taillights and carefully pulling back the carpet to expose the taillight wiring.
1. Remove plastic wing nuts behind the taillights and pull back the carpet to expose the taillight wiring. 2. Starting with the driver's side, slide the red locking tab on the harness connector to the unlocked position and disconnect the wire harness from the sockets. 3. Attach the T-Connector end containing the yellow wire to the driver's side, ensuring connectors are fully inserted with locking tabs in place. 4. Route the connector containing the green wire down the threshold to the passenger side and repeat the connection process. 5. Ensure all connector surfaces are clean and free of dirt before connecting.
Slide the red locking tab on the harness connector to the unlocked position and disconnect the wire harness from the sockets. Ensure all connector surfaces are clean and free of dirt. Attach each end of the T-Connector to the corresponding connection points—the yellow wire end to the driver's side and the green wire end to the passenger side. Push the connectors fully into place until the locking tabs engage. Do not force the connectors; they should seat smoothly when properly aligned.
Yes. You must drill a 3/32" hole to secure the white ground wire. The hole is drilled into a suitable grounding point such as the vehicle frame or crossmember near the adapter. Do not drill into the vehicle floor or bed. Always verify what is behind any surface before drilling to avoid damage to the vehicle and personal injury.
Locate a suitable grounding point near the adapter, such as the vehicle frame or crossmember. Do not drill into the vehicle floor or bed. Clean dirt and rustproofing from the area before drilling. Drill a 3/32" hole and secure the white wire using the eyelet and screw provided.
Use a 3/32" drill bit to create the grounding hole for the white wire eyelet.
Route the connector containing the green wire down the threshold to the passenger side of the vehicle. Push the wiring between the vehicle body and carpet to conceal it. Then repeat the connection process for the green wire end at the passenger side taillight.
After drilling a 3/32" hole into a suitable grounding point (vehicle frame or crossmember), secure the white wire using the eyelet and screw provided with the T-Connector. The eyelet slides over the screw, which is then fastened into the drilled hole.
After completing all electrical connections, replace the carpet, wing nuts, and any other clips or panels that were removed during installation. Be careful not to cut or pinch the wires when reinstalling these components.
Do not exceed the lower of your towing manufacturer's rating or the following limits: maximum 1 stop/turn light per side at 7.5 amps, and maximum tail lights at 7.5 amps. Overloading the circuit can cause fires. Consult your vehicle's owner's manual and instruction sheet for additional information.
The maximum is 1 stop/turn light per side at 7.5 amps. Do not exceed this rating or the lower of your towing manufacturer's rating, as overloading the circuit can cause fires.
The maximum is 7.5 amps for tail lights. Do not exceed this rating or the lower of your towing manufacturer's rating, as overloading the circuit can cause fires.
All connections must be complete for the T-Connector to function properly. Test and verify the installation with a test light or by connecting an actual trailer once installed. This ensures all wiring is properly connected and the lighting circuits are functioning correctly.
Yes. All connector surfaces should be clean and free of dirt before attaching the T-Connector. This ensures proper electrical contact and reliable function.
Yes. Before drilling the grounding hole, clean dirt and rustproofing from the area where you will attach the white ground wire. This ensures a good electrical connection.
Before drilling, verify what is behind any surface to avoid damage to the vehicle and personal injury. Do not drill into any exposed surfaces. Do not drill into the vehicle floor or bed. Take time to identify the location of fuel lines, brake lines, electrical wiring, and other components that could be damaged.
The manual does not specify vehicle compatibility. Contact the manufacturer or retailer with your vehicle's year, make, model, and body style to confirm fitment.
Maximum 7.5 amps for tail lights and 7.5 amps for stop/turn lights (1 per side). Do not exceed the lower of your towing manufacturer's rating or these limits.
The T-Connector uses yellow, green, and white wires. Yellow and green connect to the taillight circuits (driver and passenger sides), and white is the ground wire.
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