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These durable custom hitches are manufactured for 2011-2014 Ford Edge and attach to your vehicle?s frame or bumper for a sleek, clean appearance. Each hitch also has a 2 inch square receiver tube opening ? the most common and versatile on the market - allowing you to attach accessories like a bike rack or cargo carrier, or hook up your pop-up, boat trailer, or utility trailer. The options are endless! DRAW-TITE Class 3 Custom Trailer Hitches come complete with all the mounting hardware needed for installation and are backed by a nationwide lifetime limited warranty. So, whether you are headed out to the campground, the lake, or the bike trails, or you are tackling a project at home and need to haul the materials home, choose DRAW-TITE and travel with confidence knowing your setup is connected with the security only DRAW-TITE can provide. DRAW-TITE: North America?s Favorite Hitch
Draw-Tite has designed custom-fit trailer hitches since 1946 and is one of North America's most widely fitted hitch brands. Receiver hitches use solid all-welded construction and low-profile designs that follow modern vehicle contours, install with minimal bumper cutting or drilling, meet or exceed V5 CSA and SAE J684 standards, and carry a limited lifetime warranty.
Draw-Tite has been leading custom-fit trailer hitch design and engineering since its founding in 1946, and it remains one of the most widely fitted hitch brands in North America. The company's stated approach is straightforward: every hitch is tested rigorously so that it performs well beyond published industry standards, a philosophy it markets as Tested Tough. It sits within the Horizon Global towing group alongside Reese, Fulton, Bulldog, Tekonsha, Bargman and Wesbar.
Custom fit is the defining characteristic. Rather than adapting a universal design, Draw-Tite engineers a trailer hitch for a specific make, model and model year, so it bolts to existing frame locations with minimal bumper cutting or drilling. Low-profile designs follow the rear contours and aerodynamic styling of modern vehicles, which matters more than it once did now that rear fascias are shaped and sensor-equipped. Construction is solid all-welded steel for maximum strength, and every hitch meets or exceeds V5 CSA and SAE J684 standards and is backed by a nationwide limited lifetime warranty.
The range spans receiver sizes and classes to suit different loads, from 1-1/4 inch receivers for bike racks, cargo carriers and light trailers up through 2 inch receivers for heavier towing. Front mount hitches add a receiver at the front of the vehicle for winch mounts, snow plows, spare carriers and precise trailer positioning.
The Hidden Hitch series takes concealment further by mounting behind the vehicle's rear fascia, so the vehicle keeps its factory appearance until a removable receiver is fitted. Each is custom designed per make and model for a no-drill installation that does not compromise ground clearance, rated for up to 3,500 pounds gross trailer weight and 350 pounds tongue weight. Matching plug-and-play wiring completes the towing system.
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Call 888-634-94941 compatible vehicles
| Year | Make & Model | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| 2011 - 2014 | Ford Edge | Sport |
Yes, the 2011-2014 Ford Edge Sport Draw-tite Class 3 Trailer Hitch, 2 Inch Square Receiver Bundle w/ Plug-n-Play T-One Wiring Harness (Part #DTB75728-118515) is designed to fit the 2011-2014 Ford Edge.
The 2011-2014 Ford Edge Sport Draw-tite Class 3 Trailer Hitch, 2 Inch Square Receiver Bundle w/ Plug-n-Play T-One Wiring Harness (Part #DTB75728-118515) fits 2011-2014 Ford Edge models. The 2014 model year is the last year covered by this part number. For newer models, check for an updated version.
The 2011-2014 Ford Edge Sport Draw-tite Class 3 Trailer Hitch, 2 Inch Square Receiver Bundle w/ Plug-n-Play T-One Wiring Harness (Part #DTB75728-118515) fits the following vehicles: 2011-2014 Ford Edge. Always verify your specific year, make, and model before ordering.
The 2011-2014 Ford Edge Sport Draw-tite Class 3 Trailer Hitch, 2 Inch Square Receiver Bundle w/ Plug-n-Play T-One Wiring Harness (Part #DTB75728-118515) Refer to the included instructions for installation details. Basic hand tools are typically all you need.
Yes, part number 75728 is designed for the Ford Edge Sport. The hitch assembly includes part numbers 75728, 87617, and 44672. Confirm your vehicle is a Ford Edge Sport before proceeding with installation.
The hitch supports two configurations: Weight Distributing hitch with a maximum gross trailer weight of 4000 lb (1816 kg) and maximum tongue weight of 525 lb (239 kg); Weight Carrying Ball Mount with a maximum gross trailer weight of 3500 lb (1589 kg) and maximum tongue weight of 525 lb (239 kg). Do not exceed the lower of the towing vehicle manufacturer's rating or these hitch ratings.
You will need: ½" pull wire (provided with the kit), tin snips, lubricant or soapy water, and wrenches in sizes 3/4", 5.5mm or 7/32", and 8mm. A screwdriver or pry bar is also needed to remove rubber exhaust hangers.
The 75728F fastener kit includes: 4 carriage bolts ½-13 × 1.500 GR5, 4 hex nuts ½-13, 4 conical washers, and 4 spacers ¼ × 1 × 3.
The manual does not specify whether the battery must be disconnected. Contact the manufacturer or a qualified installer for guidance on this step.
You do not need to fully remove the fascia. You only need to disconnect the fascia center support (1 screw) and carefully push it rearward toward the impact bar and out of the way, then reinstall the screw. This provides access to the heat shields and frame rails.
The kink wire method uses the ½" pull wire provided to feed fasteners into the frame rails. Attach the carriage bolt and spacer block to the pull wire, then kink (bend) the wire to keep the spacer independent of the bolt. Feed the fasteners forward through the access hole at the end of the frame rail, then feed rearward fasteners using the same method. A wide notch on the outside end of both rails makes this process easier.
Yes, both heat shields must be trimmed. Remove both heat shields (3 screws each) and trim them as shown in Figure 2, leaving enough material to sandwich between the frame and hitch. The trimmed heat shields are then reinstalled using the remaining inboard fasteners.
The manual does not indicate that drilling is required. Fasteners are fed through existing access holes at the end of the frame rails. However, the manual explicitly states: "Do not cut access or attachment holes with a torch," implying that no new holes should be created with heat tools.
Lower the exhaust system at the rubber isolator (3 places), leaving the rubber isolator in place on the vehicle. Spray lubricant on the metal hanger rod and rubber isolator to help removal. Use a screwdriver or pry bar to remove the rubber hangers. Be careful not to allow the muffler to fall under its own weight—support the system while removing all hangers.
1. Lower the exhaust system at 3 rubber isolators. 2. Disconnect and move the fascia center support. 3. Remove both heat shields and plastic inserts. 4. Trim both heat shields. 5. Feed forward and rearward fasteners into place using the kink wire method. 6. Reinstall trimmed heat shields. 7. Raise the hitch into position over the exhaust, sandwiching the heat shield between hitch and rail. 8. Loosely attach fasteners, center the hitch, then tighten to 75 lb-ft. 9. Raise the exhaust system back into position.
Tighten all fasteners to 75 lb-ft (102 N·m). Fasteners should be loosely attached first, the hitch centered on the vehicle, and then tightened to this specification.
After loosely attaching all fasteners as shown in the diagram, center the hitch on the vehicle before tightening the fasteners to 75 lb-ft (102 N·m). The manual does not specify exact centering measurements; visual alignment with the vehicle centerline is implied.
The spacers (¼ × 1 × 3) are attached to the carriage bolts using the kink wire method and fed into the frame rails. They must sit flat on the rails and not on existing weld nuts. There are 4 spacers total, one for each carriage bolt.
Yes. After disconnecting the fascia center support (1 screw) and pushing it rearward toward the impact bar, you must reinstall the screw before proceeding with the rest of the installation.
When you remove both heat shields, you remove 3 screws from each shield (6 total) and a plastic insert from each side. The manual states to "Return (4 screws) to owner." These 4 screws are separate from the heat shield removal screws and should be returned to the vehicle owner.
Replace the trimmed heat shields using the remaining inboard fasteners and plastic insert. The heat shields are sandwiched between the hitch and the rail when the hitch is raised into position.
Check the hitch frequently to ensure all fasteners and the ball are properly tightened. The manual emphasizes this as an ongoing maintenance requirement, not just a one-time post-installation check.
Observe safety precautions when working beneath the vehicle and wear eye protection. Do not allow the muffler to fall under its own weight—support the exhaust system while removing hangers. Do not cut access or attachment holes with a torch. If the hitch is removed, plug all holes in the trunk pan or other body panels to prevent entry of water and exhaust fumes.
A hitch or ball which has been damaged should be removed and replaced. Do not attempt to repair or continue using a damaged hitch or ball.
If the hitch is removed, plug all holes in the trunk pan or other body panels to prevent entry of water and exhaust fumes.
Yes, part number 75728 is designed specifically for the Ford Edge Sport.
Maximum gross trailer weight is 4000 lb (1816 kg) for weight distributing or 3500 lb (1589 kg) for weight carrying ball mount. Maximum tongue weight is 525 lb (239 kg) for both. Do not exceed the lower of the hitch rating or your vehicle manufacturer's rating.
You need: ½" pull wire (provided), tin snips, lubricant or soapy water, wrenches (3/4", 5.5mm or 7/32", 8mm), and a screwdriver or pry bar.
No drilling is required. Fasteners are fed through existing frame rail access holes. Do not cut new holes with a torch.
Yes, both heat shields must be trimmed as shown in Figure 2, leaving enough material to sandwich between the frame and hitch.
Tighten all fasteners to 75 lb-ft (102 N·m) after centering the hitch on the vehicle.
Check the hitch frequently to ensure all fasteners and the ball are properly tightened. Retighten if necessary.
Wear eye protection, support the exhaust system to prevent it from falling, do not use a torch to cut holes, and plug all holes if the hitch is removed to prevent water and exhaust fume entry.
Support the exhaust system while removing the rubber hangers. The manual explicitly warns: "Be careful not to allow muffler to fall under its own weight." If the muffler is sagging, ensure you are supporting the entire exhaust system before and during the removal of all 3 rubber hangers. Use a jack or support stand if necessary.
Ensure you are using the kink wire method correctly: attach the carriage bolt and spacer block to the pull wire, then kink (bend) the wire to keep the spacer independent of the bolt. The wide notch on the outside end of both rails is designed to make this process easier. If fasteners are still stuck, check that the spacer is not catching on the frame or weld nuts.
Loosen the fasteners, reposition the hitch to center it on the vehicle, and retighten to 75 lb-ft (102 N·m). The manual requires that the hitch be centered before final tightening. If the hitch continues to shift, check that all fasteners are tightened evenly and that spacers are sitting flat on the rails.
Ensure the heat shield has been trimmed correctly as shown in Figure 2. The manual states to "leave enough to sandwich between frame and hitch." If the trimmed shield is too large, trim it further. If it is too small, you may have over-trimmed. Verify that the hitch is centered and that spacers are sitting flat on the rails before finalizing the heat shield position.
Check the hitch frequently to ensure all fasteners are properly tightened to 75 lb-ft (102 N·m). The manual emphasizes: "Check hitch frequently, making sure all fasteners and ball are properly tightened." Retighten any loose fasteners. If fasteners continue to loosen, verify that conical washers are in place and that spacers are sitting flat on the rails, not on weld nuts.
The T-Connector is a wiring harness assembly that integrates with your vehicle's taillight system. It includes a black box-module, multiple wiring harnesses with colour-coded wires (yellow, green, white, and black), connectors, a 15-amp fuse holder, and cable ties. The system allows you to connect additional lighting or trailer equipment to your vehicle's existing taillight circuit.
Yes, the T-Connector is designed for the Ford Edge. The installation instructions are specific to this vehicle model.
You will need: trim panel remover, 10mm socket and ratchet or 10mm wrench, drill with 3/32" drill bit, test-probe, wire crimpers, and wire cutters.
Yes. You must disconnect and isolate the vehicle's negative battery terminal before connecting the wiring to the positive battery cable. This is a required safety step in step 10 of the installation process.
You must open the vehicle's rear tailgate and remove the cargo nets and cargo floor hatch to access the spare tire area. You will also need to remove both taillight housing assemblies by removing the two bolts for each light and carefully prying the housing away from the vehicle, being careful not to break the alignment tabs.
First, disconnect the wiring harness at the plugs in the taillight pocket (step 2). Then plug the T-Connector end with the yellow wire in-between the mating plugs on the driver's side taillight socket and vehicle wiring harness (step 4). Repeat this for the passenger's side using the T-Connector containing the green wire (step 5). Ensure all connector surfaces are clean and free of dirt, and that connectors are fully inserted with locking tabs in place.
On both driver's and passenger's sides, slit the grommet to allow the T-Connector's wiring to pass through. Route the wire inside the vehicle through each interior trim panel. Route the T-Connector containing the green wire down the threshold plate, up and through the passenger side trim panel, and out through the grommet hole.
Yes. You must drill a 3/32" hole to secure the white ground wire. Before drilling, verify what is behind any surface to avoid damage to the vehicle and/or personal injury. Do not drill into the vehicle floor, bed, or any exposed surfaces. Clean dirt and rustproofing from the area, then drill the 3/32" hole and secure the white wire using the eyelet and screw provided.
Mount the black box-module on a flat surface in an out-of-the-way location inside the vehicle. The surface must be free of any moisture and mounted high enough so it cannot be exposed to direct contact with water or any liquid substance. The black box-module must be mounted ONLY in the INTERIOR of the vehicle. Mounting on the exterior or in areas exposed to elements or moisture could cause serious damage to the vehicle and module.
Locate the T-Connector's grey 12-pin connector and insert it into the mating connector located on the black box-module. Check that the mating surfaces of the wiring connectors match. All connector surfaces should be clean and free of dirt. Be careful not to damage the locking tabs and ensure that connectors are fully inserted with locking tabs in place.
Beginning from the front of the vehicle, route the black 12 gauge wire rearward along the frame rail. Avoid any hot pipes, heat shields, the fuel tank, or any other points that may pinch or break the wire.
Connect the black 12 gauge wire and the two black wires from the T-Connector's grey 12-pin connector using the supplied yellow butt connector. Disconnect and isolate the vehicle's negative battery terminal. If not already removed, remove the fuse from the supplied fuse holder. After cutting the fuse holder wire, attach the ring terminal and secure it to the vehicle's positive (+) battery cable.
Install a 15-amp fuse into the fuse holder.
Do not exceed the lower of your towing manufacturer's rating or: maximum stop/turn light of 4.2 amps, or maximum tail lights of 7.5 amps. Overloading the circuit can cause fires. Consult your vehicle's owner's manual and instruction sheet for additional information.
All connections must be complete for the T-Connector to function properly. Test and verify the installation with a test light or trailer once installed.
Store the 4-flat connector in the rear cargo area when not in use.
Secure the remainder of the T-Connector harness with the cable ties provided to prevent damage or rattling. Be careful to avoid any areas that would pinch, cut, or melt the wire.
Yes, the T-Connector (118515-037) is designed for the Ford Edge.
Trim panel remover, 10mm socket and ratchet or wrench, drill with 3/32" bit, test-probe, wire crimpers, and wire cutters.
Yes, you must disconnect and isolate the vehicle's negative battery terminal before connecting to the positive battery cable.
A 15-amp fuse is installed in the supplied fuse holder.
Do not exceed 4.2 amps for stop/turn lights or 7.5 amps for tail lights, or your vehicle's towing manufacturer rating, whichever is lower. Overloading can cause fires.
Test and verify the installation with a test light or trailer once all connections are complete.
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