Air Lift Air Lift 1000 Air Spring Kit 60840Air LiftOriginal price was $206.99. Current price is $149.99.In Stock
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Air Lift
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1979 - 1991 Saab 900
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MN-87_60756.pdf
AD-938 LS user guide.pdf
AD-985-ALC-Warranty- Flyer.pdf
Providing up to 1,000 lbs. of load-leveling capacity, Air Lift's air bag kits provide greater safety and comfort when carrying heavy loads.
Air Lift adjustable air helper springs level your load, and give your truck, van, or SUV a safer, more comfortable ride. Air springs are easy to install inside the existing coil spring with common mechanic's tools. Just add air when towing or hauling a heavy load, and reduce air pressure when unloaded, they are fully adjustable for a great ride. Air Lift air springs eliminate sag, sway, and bottoming out. They are made with rugged, durable components for long, reliable service. Air Lift 1000 kits fit many popular customer vehicles with coil springs. They're designed to: add support to rear springs on many popular SUVs, replace OEM front air springs on P-30 motor homes, provide front end support for snowplows, winches, etc., improve muscle car traction for drag racing, and improve ride and handling for full-size vans and trucks with front coil springs. Air adjustable with quick connecting, easy-to-use air fittings, Air Lift 1000 air helper springs have a typical max pressure of 35 PSI on cars and SUVs, and 90 PSI on motorhomes. They also have up to 1000 pounds of leveling capacity, right up to the manufacturer's recommended Gross Vehicle Weight Rating. Air Lift 1000 kits also come standard with a limited lifetime warranty and an exclusive 60 day ride satisfaction guarantee.
Air Lift Company has developed dependable air spring suspension products since our inception in 1949. Our original product, a rubber air spring inserted into a car’s factory coil spring, was created and patented in 1950. We’ve come a long way since 1949 and are proud to be a dedicated suspension specialist company.
Today, Air Lift load support products are sold worldwide and are engineered to fit over 540 vehicles. Our extensive product line offers air helper springs for trucks, RVs, SUVs, CUVs, and vans, as well as the most technologically advanced on-board air compressor systems for on-the-go air spring control.
Air Lift leads the industry in no-drill applications – kits that bolt onto your vehicle’s frame, speeding the installation process. Our teams work constantly to bring innovative products to you and upgrade existing products with the latest technology.
All of our efforts are spent ensuring your safety and comfort by designing, engineering, and manufacturing the highest quality suspension products. We are a family-owned business based in Lansing, Michigan, and make your family and cargo’s safety our top priority.
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Call 888-634-9494Limited Lifetime
1 compatible vehicles
| Year | Make & Model | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| 1979 - 1991 | Saab 900 | — |
The kit includes 2 cylinders (part 46143), 2 protectors (09333), 2 styrofoam protectors (09444), 15 feet of air hose (20937), 4 nylon straps (10466), 2 flat washers (18501), 2 5/16" star washers (18411), 2 valve caps (21230), 4 hex nuts (21233), 2 rubber washers (21234), 1 barbed tee (21236), 2 valves with core (21455), and 6 hose clamps (10638). If any parts are missing or damaged, contact Air Lift customer service at (800) 248-0892.
The kit is designed for cars, vans, light trucks and motorhomes on catalog-listed applications. The manual does not specify individual vehicle models or years. Contact Air Lift customer service at (800) 248-0892 to confirm fitment for your specific vehicle.
No. Installing air springs will not change the weight ratings (GAWR, GCWR, and/or GVWR) of your vehicle. You must not exceed your vehicle's GVWR, as doing so is dangerous and voids the Air Lift warranty. Check your vehicle's Safety Compliance Certification Label for the maximum allowable weight.
Lower the axle or raise the body of the vehicle until the suspension is fully extended. This is required before beginning installation.
Air cylinders are shipped in the "as molded" shape. Remove the plastic cap from the barbed stem on the end of the cylinder. Push on the air cylinder to evacuate as much air as possible—it may be rolled up toward the valve stem. Replace the cap to maintain the flat shape for easier installation.
First, install the styrofoam protector into the top spring seat. Roll or "hot dog" the deflated cylinder, then push it up within the coil by hand or with a blunt instrument such as a spoon-type tire iron. When the cylinder is completely within the coil, remove the cap and allow it to assume its "as molded" shape. Push the cylinder to the top of the coil and insert the black spacer on top of the lower spring seat.
Locate the desired tee location on the frame rail or cross member. Determine and cut adequate tubing length to reach from the tee to both left and right cylinders. Slide a hose clamp onto the tubing, then push the tubing over one side of the tee until all barbs are covered. Use pliers to slide the hose clamp forward until it fully covers the barbed section. Repeat for the other leg of the tee. Route tubing along the cross member and either the lower control arm or upper spring seat to each air cylinder. Insert tubing through the spring seat and spacer, slide on a hose clamp, push the tubing onto the stem covering all barbs, and use pliers to slide the hose clamp upward until it fully covers the barbed section.
Select a location for the inflation valve in the gas cap well, trunk, rear bumper, fender flange, or behind the license plate. Ensure the valve will be protected and accessible with an air hose. Drill a 5/16" hole for the inflation valve. The rubber washer is for outside weather seal.
Drill a 5/16" hole for the inflation valve.
Place a 5/16" nut and star washer on the air valve, leaving enough valve exposed to extend through the hole and have room for the rubber washer, flat washer, and 5/16" nut and cap. Approximately ½" of valve should remain exposed after installation to easily apply a pressure gauge or air chuck. Push the inflation valve through the hole and use the rubber washer, flat washer, and another 5/16" nut to secure it in place. Tighten the nuts to secure the assembly.
Keep the air line at least 6 inches away from heat sources such as the exhaust pipes, muffler, or catalytic converter. This prevents the tubing from melting. Also avoid sharp bends and edges.
Use plastic tie straps to secure the air line to fixed, non-moving points along the chassis. Ensure the tie straps are tight, but do not pinch the air line. Leave at least 2 inches of slack to allow for any movement that might pull on the air line.
Use a hose cutter, a razor blade, or a sharp knife to cut the air line. A clean, square cut will ensure against leaks. Do not use wire cutters or scissors, as these tools may flatten or crimp the air line, causing it to leak around the O-ring seal inside the elbow fitting.
Cut the air line, leaving approximately 12 inches of extra air line. Make a clean square cut to ensure against leaks. Insert the air line into the 90° swivel fitting (a push-to-connect fitting) until it bottoms out. Approximately 9/16" of air line should be in the fitting.
Raise the axle or lower the body until the air cylinders lightly touch the upper spring seat and lower spacers. Check that the tailpipe clearance is at least 6 inches from the air cylinder. If necessary, loosen clamps and rotate or move the air line to obtain additional clearance.
Inflate the air spring to 30 PSI. Spray all connections and inflation valves with a solution of 1 part liquid dish soap and 4 parts water. Spot leaks by looking for bubbles in the soapy water. After the test, deflate the springs to the minimum pressure required to restore the system to normal ride height. Do not deflate to lower than 5 PSI. Check the air pressure again after 24 hours. A 2–4 PSI loss after initial installation is normal. Retest for leaks if the loss is more than 5 PSI.
Deflate the spring and remove the line by pulling the collar against the fitting and pulling firmly on the air line. Trim 1 inch off the end of the air line, ensuring the cut is clean and square. Reinsert the air line into the push-to-connect fitting.
Tighten the swivel fitting another ½ turn. If it still leaks, deflate the air spring, remove the fitting, and re-coat the threads with thread sealant. Reinstall by hand tightening as much as possible, then use a wrench for an additional two turns.
First, check the valve core by tightening it with a valve core tool. If that does not resolve the leak, check the air line by removing it from the barbed fitting. Cut the air line off a few inches in front of the fitting and use pliers or vice grips to pull or twist the air line off the fitting. Do not cut off the air line completely, as this will usually nick the barb and render the fitting useless.
Inflate the air springs to 15 PSI and ensure there is at least ½ inch clearance from anything that might rub against each sleeve. Check the tire, brake drum, frame, shock absorbers, and brake cables. Also verify there is sufficient clearance from heat sources—at least 6 inches for air springs and air lines.
Perform a leak test by inflating the air springs to 25 PSI and checking all connections for leaks. All leaks must be eliminated before the vehicle is road tested. After passing the leak test, road test the vehicle by driving it 10 miles and rechecking for clearance, loose fasteners, and air leaks.
The minimum air pressure should be maintained at all times. The minimum air pressure keeps the air spring in shape, ensuring that it will move throughout its travel without rubbing or wearing on itself. The manual specifies a minimum of 4 PSI and a maximum of 25 PSI. Do not deflate below 5 PSI during normal operation.
The maximum air pressure is 25 PSI. Never inflate beyond 25 PSI. Although the air springs are rated at a maximum inflation pressure of 25 PSI, the air pressure actually needed is dependent on your load and GVWR.
Check the air pressure weekly. Always maintain normal ride height by adjusting the air pressure as necessary. When increasing load, always adjust the air pressure to maintain normal ride height.
If the air springs are properly installed and maintained, they can last indefinitely.
Yes, the vehicle can be lifted on a hoist for short-term service work such as tire rotation or oil changes. However, if the vehicle will be on the hoist for a prolonged period of time, support the axle with jack stands to take the tension off the air springs.
No. Air pressure can be adjusted with any type of compressor as long as it can produce sufficient pressure to service the springs. Even a bicycle tire pump can be used, though it requires significant effort.
Inflate your air springs to 15 PSI before adding the payload. This will allow the air cylinder to properly mesh with the coil spring. After the vehicle is loaded, adjust your air pressure down to level the vehicle and for ride comfort.
When carrying a payload, increase the tire inflation pressure in proportion to any overload condition. Air Lift recommends a 2 PSI increase above normal for each 100 pounds of additional load on the axle, up to the maximum tire inflation pressure.
Use a soapy water solution to check all air line connections and the inflation valve core before deflating and removing the spring. Spray all connections with a solution of 1 part liquid dish soap and 4 parts water and look for bubbles to spot leaks.
If the vehicle will be on a hoist for a prolonged period of time, support the axle with jack stands to take the tension off the air springs. If you must raise the vehicle by the frame, make sure the system is at a minimum pressure of 4 PSI to reduce tension on the suspension and brake components.
Recheck the air spring system after 30 days or 500 miles, whichever comes first. If any part shows signs of rubbing or abrasion, identify and move the source if possible. If it is not possible to relocate the cause of the abrasion, the air spring may need to be remounted. Check all fasteners for tightness.
Recheck the air pressure after 24 hours. A 2–4 PSI loss after initial installation is normal. If the loss is more than 5 PSI, there is a leak that must be fixed. Either fix the leak yourself or return to the installer for service.
Perform a leak test by spraying all connections and the inflation valves with a solution of 1 part liquid dish soap and 4 parts water. Look for bubbles to spot leaks. Inspect the air lines to ensure none are pinched—tie straps may be too tight. Loosen or replace the strap and replace leaking components. Inspect the air line for holes and cracks and replace as needed. Look for a kink or fold in the air line and reroute as needed. If these steps do not solve the problem, call Air Lift at (800) 248-0892.
Air Lift Company warrants its PolyAir products with a Lifetime Limited warranty to the original retail purchaser against manufacturing defects when used on catalog-listed applications on cars, vans, light trucks and motorhomes under normal operating conditions. The warranty does not apply to products that have been improperly applied, improperly installed, used in racing or off-road applications, used for commercial purposes, or which have not been maintained in accordance with installation instructions. Failure to maintain correct minimum pressure, bottoming out, over-extension, or rubbing against another component will void the warranty.
Contact Air Lift Company customer service by calling (800) 248-0892, Monday through Friday, 8 a.m. to 8 p.m. Eastern Time. For calls from outside the USA or Canada, call (517) 322-2144. You may also contact them by mail at PO Box 80167, Lansing, MI 48908-0167, by e-mail at sales@airliftcompany.com, or on the web at www.airliftcompany.com.
The kit is designed for cars, vans, light trucks and motorhomes on catalog-listed applications. Contact Air Lift at (800) 248-0892 to confirm fitment for your specific vehicle model and year.
The kit includes 2 cylinders, 2 protectors, 2 styrofoam protectors, 15 feet of air hose, 4 nylon straps, fasteners (flat washers, star washers, hex nuts, rubber washers), 2 valve caps, 1 barbed tee, 2 valves with core, and 6 hose clamps. If any parts are missing, call Air Lift at (800) 248-0892.
Yes. You must drill a 5/16" hole for the inflation valve. Use a hose cutter, razor blade, or sharp knife to cut the air line—do not use wire cutters or scissors.
Inflate the air springs to 30 PSI and spray all connections with a solution of 1 part dish soap and 4 parts water. Look for bubbles to spot leaks. A 2–4 PSI loss after 24 hours is normal; if loss exceeds 5 PSI, there is a leak to fix.
Check the air pressure weekly. Always maintain normal ride height by adjusting pressure as needed. Do not exceed 25 PSI.
No. The air springs do not change your vehicle's GVWR, GAWR, or GCWR. You must not exceed your vehicle's GVWR.
Deflate the spring and remove the line by pulling the collar against the fitting and pulling firmly on the air line. Trim 1 inch off the end of the air line with a clean, square cut. Reinsert the air line into the push-to-connect fitting until it bottoms out.
Tighten the swivel fitting another ½ turn. If it still leaks, deflate the air spring, remove the fitting, and re-coat the threads with thread sealant. Reinstall by hand tightening as much as possible, then use a wrench for an additional two turns.
Check the valve core by tightening it with a valve core tool. If that does not resolve the leak, remove the air line from the barbed fitting by cutting it a few inches in front of the fitting and using pliers or vice grips to pull or twist it off. Do not cut the air line completely, as this will nick the barb and render the fitting useless.
Perform a leak test by spraying all connections and inflation valves with a solution of 1 part dish soap and 4 parts water and looking for bubbles. Inspect the air lines to ensure none are pinched—loosen or replace tight tie straps. Inspect the air line for holes and cracks and replace as needed. Look for kinks or folds in the air line and reroute as needed. If these steps do not solve the problem, call Air Lift at (800) 248-0892.
A 2–4 PSI loss after initial installation is normal. If the loss is more than 5 PSI after 24 hours, there is a leak that must be fixed. Perform a leak test by spraying all connections with soapy water and looking for bubbles.
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