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Air Lift
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2010 - 2014 Ford F-150
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LoadLifter 5000.
The LoadLifter 5000 air suspension kits fit many 1/2-, 3/4-, and 1-ton pickups and vans to haul the big stuff. Perfect for commercial trucks, wreckers, ambulances, construction and utility trucks. Our air springs beef up your existing suspension to boost your safety and comfort when hauling massive loads.

Air Lift Company has developed dependable air spring suspension products since our inception in 1949. Our original product, a rubber air spring inserted into a car’s factory coil spring, was created and patented in 1950. We’ve come a long way since 1949 and are proud to be a dedicated suspension specialist company.
Today, Air Lift load support products are sold worldwide and are engineered to fit over 540 vehicles. Our extensive product line offers air helper springs for trucks, RVs, SUVs, CUVs, and vans, as well as the most technologically advanced on-board air compressor systems for on-the-go air spring control.
Air Lift leads the industry in no-drill applications – kits that bolt onto your vehicle’s frame, speeding the installation process. Our teams work constantly to bring innovative products to you and upgrade existing products with the latest technology.
All of our efforts are spent ensuring your safety and comfort by designing, engineering, and manufacturing the highest quality suspension products. We are a family-owned business based in Lansing, Michigan, and make your family and cargo’s safety our top priority.
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2 compatible vehicles
| Year | Make & Model | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| 2004 - 2009 | Ford F-150 | New body, excludes Heritage models |
| 2010 - 2014 | Ford F-150 | New body, excludes Heritage models, does not fit the F: 150 Raptor |
Yes, the Air Lift LoadLifter 5000 for Half Ton Vehicles. 57228 (Part #BBCG57228) is designed to fit the 2004-2014 Ford F-150.
The Air Lift LoadLifter 5000 for Half Ton Vehicles. 57228 (Part #BBCG57228) fits 2004-2014 Ford F-150 models. The 2014 model year is the last year covered by this part number. For newer models, check for an updated version.
The Air Lift LoadLifter 5000 for Half Ton Vehicles. 57228 (Part #BBCG57228) fits the following vehicles: 2004-2014 Ford F-150. Always verify your specific year, make, and model before ordering.
The Air Lift LoadLifter 5000 for Half Ton Vehicles. 57228 (Part #BBCG57228) Refer to the included instructions for installation details. Basic hand tools are typically all you need.
The LoadLifter 5000 is an air spring suspension support system that uses reinforced commercial-grade bellows to provide load leveling support. It delivers up to 5,000 lbs. of load leveling support with air adjustability from 5–100 PSI. The system is designed for 3/4 ton and 1 ton pickups and SUVs with leaf springs, motor home rear applications, and various front applications with leaf springs.
Kit 57228 is designed for Ford F-150 2WD rear application only. The manual does not specify which model years, cab styles, or bed lengths are compatible. Contact Air Lift customer service at (800) 248-0892 to confirm fitment for your specific F-150 configuration.
No. Installing air springs will not change the weight ratings (GAWR, GCWR, or GVWR) of your vehicle. You must not exceed your vehicle's maximum GVWR as stated in your vehicle's owner's manual and Safety Compliance Certification Label. Exceeding the GVWR is dangerous and voids the Air Lift warranty.
Required tools include: hoist or floor jacks, 2 safety stands, safety glasses, torque wrench, standard open-end combo wrenches, ratchet, metric and standard sockets, #6 metric Allen wrench, 7/32" Allen wrench, flat head screwdriver, hack saw or grinder, 5/16" drill bit (very sharp), heavy duty drill, hose cutter/razor blade/sharp knife, air compressor or compressed air source, and spray bottle with dish soap/water solution.
The kit includes: 2 bellows (58437), 2 upper frame brackets (07079, 07078), 2 upper spring brackets (07089, 07088), 2 lower brackets (03889), 4 roll plates (11951), 2 straight fittings (21839), 4 flat head screws (17215), 4 hex head bolts (17203), 4 lock washers (18427), 20 flat washers (18444), 3 clamp bars (01531), 1 axle strap (10451), 1 sleeve spacer (10673), 1 long carriage bolt (17168), 4 carriage bolts (17361), 2 button head screws (17366), 7 long carriage bolts (17163), 13 nylon lock nuts (18435), 2 universal nuts (18605), 1 clamp (26333), 1 hex bolt (17107), 1 air line (20086), 6 tie straps (10466), 2 valve caps (21230), 2 5/16" flat washers (18501), 2 rubber washers (21234), 2 star washers (18411), and 4 5/16" hex nuts (21233).
Yes. You must remove both jounce bumpers located between the frame and axle. For early 2004–2008 models, you must also remove the stock universal nut that held the jounce bumpers in place and install a new universal nut (part V) with the threaded portion facing up inside the frame. For 2009 and later models, no additional modification is needed after removing the jounce bumpers.
Yes. On the right (passenger) side, the emergency brake cable holder is bolted to a bracket welded to the axle with a self-tapping bolt. You must cut this bolt off and/or grind it flush to the bracket to make clearance for the axle strap. This modification is required for all model years.
The upper spring bracket (parts B and D) should be torqued to no more than 20 lb.-ft. when installing the four flat head screws (part J) into the bellows.
The upper frame bracket (parts A and C) should be torqued to 38 lb.-ft. when attaching to the frame using a flat washer (M) and button head screw (S). The bracket flange should point up and be pushed as tight to the frame as possible while tightening.
Attach the left and right bellows assemblies to the frame brackets using carriage bolts (R), flat washers (M), and nylon lock nuts (U), torqued to 31 lb.-ft.
The lower bracket nuts should be torqued evenly to 10 lb.-ft. This applies to both the clamp bar fasteners and the axle strap fasteners on the right side. Ensure the lower bracket stays against the leaf spring and between the stock U-bolts during tightening.
The roll plate (H) should be attached to the lower bracket using a 3/8" hex head bolt (K), lock washer (L), and flat washer (M). Since it is difficult to torque this bolt unless using a crow's foot wrench adapter, tighten the hardware securely to no more than 20 lb.-ft.
Install the straight fitting (I) into the top of the bellows (G) finger tight, then tighten it one and a half turns. The fitting should be hand-tightened first, then turned an additional 1.5 turns with a wrench.
Set a roll plate (H) over the top of the bellows (G) so that the radiused (rounded) edge of the roll plate faces the bellows, allowing the bellows to seat inside both roll plates. The roll plate should be positioned to nest over the bottom of the bellows and lined up as close as possible to the lower bracket holes.
Yes. The left and right assemblies are hand-specific. The left assembly (with parts B and D) goes on the driver side, and the right assembly goes on the passenger side. They are not interchangeable.
On the left (driver) side, use the inside square holes for the carriage bolts (T). On the right (passenger) side, use the outside set of square holes for the first two carriage bolts, and the outside square holes for the third bolt that goes through the axle strap.
Set the axle strap (O) under the axle between the emergency brake cable bracket and leaf spring retainer. The flange must be above the stock spring retainer and forward of the axle. Insert the long carriage bolt (T) through the outside square holes into the axle strap. Cap with sleeve spacer (P), flat washer (M), and nylon lock nut (U). On the backside of the axle, cap the axle strap with a flat washer (M) and nylon lock nut (U).
For 2009 and later models: (1) Remove the right ABS line from the bracket by pulling it straight up. (2) Set a clamp (W) around the left ABS and brake line and insert a hex bolt (X) and flat washer (M) through the clamp. (3) Install the bolt through the existing hole in the lower bracket where the right ABS line was removed, capping with flat washer (M) and nylon lock nut (U). Position the clamp so lines turn 90° coming out of the fitting. (4) Tie off the left ABS line to the right ABS line using a tie strap (BB). (5) Position the lower bracket on the left side with the inside leg outboard (leaf spring side) of the ABS line bracket.
Yes. You must drill two 5/16" holes to install the inflation valves. The holes should be drilled in a convenient location such as the wheel well flanges, license plate recess in bumper, under the gas cap access door, or through the license plate. Ensure there is enough clearance around the inflation valves for an air chuck.
Use a hose cutter, razor blade, or sharp knife to cut the air line. A clean, square cut will ensure against leaks. Do not use wire cutters or scissors, as these tools may flatten or crimp the air line, causing it to leak around the O-ring seal inside the elbow fitting. When inserting the air line into the fitting, leave approximately 12" of extra air line and ensure 9/16" of air line is inserted into the fitting.
No permanent modification to the exhaust is required. However, you must check that the exhaust clearance is 2–3 inches from the air cylinder. If a heat shield is included in the kit, install it on the exhaust pipe at the closest point to the air spring. The heat shield should be bent to form an "L" shape and positioned to maintain a "dead air" space of 1/2" to 1" between the tail pipe and the heat shield.
Route the air line along the frame to the air fitting on the air spring. Keep at least 6" of clearance between the air line and heat sources such as exhaust pipes, muffler, or catalytic converter. Avoid sharp bends and edges. Use plastic tie straps to secure the air line to fixed, non-moving points along the chassis. Tie straps should be tight but not pinch the air line. Leave at least 2" of slack to allow for any movement that might pull on the air line.
Drill a 5/16" hole in your chosen location. Place a 5/16" nut and star washer (FF) on the air valve. Push the inflation valve through the hole and use a rubber washer (EE), flat washer (DD), and another 5/16" nut (GG) to secure it in place. Tighten the nuts to secure the assembly. Approximately 1/2" of valve should be exposed after installation to easily apply a pressure gauge or air chuck. Install a valve cap (CC) on the valve.
The minimum recommended air pressure is 5 PSI. The maximum air pressure is 100 PSI. Never inflate beyond 100 PSI. The air pressure actually needed depends on your load and GVWR. Loaded vehicles require at least 25 PSI or more. A loaded vehicle refers to one with a heavy bed load, a trailer, or both.
Yes. For LoadLifter 5000 Ultimate, the recommended minimum air pressure is 5 PSI, but it can safely be run at zero air pressure. However, the system should be adjusted to maintain ride height at all times.
Do not try to inflate the air springs until they have been properly secured to the vehicle. Compressed air can cause injury and damage to the vehicle and parts if not handled properly. Only inflate after all brackets, bellows, and fasteners are properly installed and torqued.
The vehicle can be lifted on a hoist for short-term service work such as tire rotation or oil changes. However, if the vehicle will be on the hoist for a prolonged period, support the axle with jack stands to take the tension off the air springs. If you need to raise the vehicle by the frame, make sure the system is at minimum pressure (5 PSI) to reduce tension on the suspension and brake components.
Complete the following checks: (1) Clearance test—inflate to 60 PSI and ensure at least 1/2" clearance around each bellows away from tires, brake drums, frame, shock absorbers, and brake cables. (2) Leak test—inflate to 60 PSI and check all connections with soapy water solution; all leaks must be eliminated before road testing. (3) Heat test—ensure at least 6" clearance from heat sources; install heat shield if included. (4) Fastener test—recheck all bolts for proper torque and re-torque after 100 miles. (5) Road test—inflate to 25 PSI (or 50 PSI if loaded), drive 10 miles, and recheck for clearance, loose fasteners, and air leaks.
Inflate the air springs to 30 PSI. Spray all connections and inflation valves with a solution of 1/5 liquid dish soap and 4/5 water. Spot leaks by looking for bubbles in the soapy water. After the test, deflate the springs to the minimum pressure required to restore normal ride height (no lower than 5 PSI). Check the air pressure again after 24 hours. A 2–4 PSI loss after initial installation is normal. Retest for leaks if the loss is more than 5 lbs.
If there is a problem with the swivel fitting: (1) Deflate the spring and remove the line by pulling the collar against the fitting and pulling firmly on the air line. (2) Trim 1" off the end of the air line, ensuring the cut is clean and square. (3) Reinsert the air line into the push-to-connect fitting. If the threaded connection leaks, tighten the swivel fitting another 1/2 turn. If it still leaks, deflate the air spring, remove the fitting, re-coat the threads with thread sealant, and reinstall by hand tightening as much as possible, then use a wrench for an additional two turns.
If there is a problem with the inflation valve: (1) Check the valve core by tightening it with a valve core tool. (2) Check the air line by removing it from the barbed fitting. Cut the air line off a few inches in front of the fitting and use pliers or vice grips to pull/twist the air line off the fitting. Do not cut off the air line completely, as this will usually nick the barb and render the fitting useless. If these steps do not resolve the problem, call Air Lift customer service at (800) 248-0892.
Check the air pressure weekly. Always maintain normal ride height. Never inflate beyond 100 PSI. The air pressure needed depends on your load and GVWR.
The springs in this kit will support approximately 40 lbs. of load (combined on both springs) for each 1 PSI of pressure. The required air pressure will vary depending on the state of the original suspension.
If the air springs are properly installed and maintained, they can last indefinitely.
Follow these maintenance guidelines: (1) Check air pressure weekly. (2) Always maintain normal ride height; never inflate beyond 100 PSI. (3) If you develop an air leak, use a soapy water solution (1/5 liquid dish soap and 4/5 water) to check all air line connections and the inflation valve core before deflating. (4) Loaded vehicles require at least 25 PSI or more. (5) When increasing load, adjust air pressure to maintain normal ride height. (6) Always add air in small quantities, checking pressure frequently. (7) When raising the vehicle by the frame, ensure the system is at minimum pressure (5 PSI). (8) Periodically check fasteners for tightness and inspect air springs for rubbing. (9) Periodically spray the air springs with a garden hose to remove mud, sand, gravel, or other abrasive debris.
Recheck the air spring system after 30 days or 500 miles, whichever comes first. If any part shows signs of rubbing or abrasion, identify and move the source if possible. If relocation is not possible, the air spring may need to be remounted. Check all fasteners for tightness. Also, recheck all bolts for proper torque and re-torque after 100 miles.
A 2–4 PSI loss after initial installation is normal. If the loss is more than 5 lbs. after 24 hours, there is a leak that must be fixed. Retest for leaks using a soapy water solution (1/5 liquid dish soap and 4/5 water) on all connections and the inflation valves. Look for bubbles to spot leaks. Either fix the leak yourself or return to the installer for service.
Use a soapy water solution (1/5 liquid dish soap and 4/5 water) to check all air line connections and the inflation valve core. Spot leaks by looking for bubbles. Leak test the air line connections, the threaded connection into the air spring, and all fittings. Inspect air lines to ensure none are pinched (tie straps may be too tight). Inspect the air line for holes and cracks. Look for a kink or fold in the air line and reroute as needed. If these steps do not solve the problem, call Air Lift customer service at (800) 248-0892.
If the vehicle's headlights are shining into the trees or the vehicle is leaning to one side, it is not level. Raise the air pressure to correct either of these problems and level the vehicle. It may be necessary to maintain different pressures on each side of the vehicle. Loads such as water, fuel, and appliances will cause the vehicle to be heavier on one side. As much as a 50 PSI difference is not uncommon.
If the vehicle has a rough or harsh ride, it may be due to either too much pressure or not enough. Try different pressures to determine the best ride comfort. If the vehicle rocks and rolls, adjust the air pressure to reduce movement. Stability issues include roll control, bounce, dive during braking, and sponginess. Tuning out these problems usually requires an increase in pressure.
If the front of the vehicle dives while braking, increase the pressure in the front air bags if equipped. This is part of tuning the air pressure for stability and safety.
If it is ever suspected that the air bags have bottomed out, increase the pressure. Bottoming out indicates insufficient air pressure to support the load.
Yes. Remove both jounce bumpers between the frame and axle. For 2004–2008 models, also remove and replace the stock universal nut with a new one (part V) threaded portion up inside the frame. For 2009+ models, no additional modification is needed.
Upper spring bracket: 20 lb.-ft. Upper frame bracket: 38 lb.-ft. Bellows assembly to frame bracket: 31 lb.-ft. Lower bracket fasteners: 10 lb.-ft. Roll plate to lower bracket: no more than 20 lb.-ft.
The maximum air pressure is 100 PSI. Never inflate beyond 100 PSI. The minimum recommended pressure is 5 PSI. Loaded vehicles require at least 25 PSI or more.
Inflate to 30 PSI and spray all connections and valves with a solution of 1/5 liquid dish soap and 4/5 water. Look for bubbles to spot leaks. A 2–4 PSI loss after 24 hours is normal; if loss exceeds 5 lbs., retest for leaks.
Check air pressure weekly. Maintain normal ride height and never exceed 100 PSI. Periodically check fasteners for tightness, inspect for rubbing, and spray air springs with a garden hose to remove debris. Recheck the system after 30 days or 500 miles.
If the swivel fitting is leaking: (1) Deflate the spring and remove the line by pulling the collar against the fitting and pulling firmly on the air line. (2) Trim 1" off the end of the air line, ensuring the cut is clean and square. (3) Reinsert the air line into the push-to-connect fitting. If the threaded connection is leaking: (1) Tighten the swivel fitting another 1/2 turn. (2) If it still leaks, deflate the air spring, remove the fitting, re-coat the threads with thread sealant, and reinstall by hand tightening as much as possible, then use a wrench for an additional two turns.
If the inflation valve is leaking: (1) Check the valve core by tightening it with a valve core tool. (2) Check the air line by removing it from the barbed fitting. Cut the air line off a few inches in front of the fitting and use pliers or vice grips to pull/twist the air line off the fitting. Do not cut off the air line completely, as this will nick the barb and render the fitting useless. If these steps do not resolve the problem, call Air Lift customer service at (800) 248-0892.
Perform the following troubleshooting steps: (1) Leak test all air line connections, the threaded connection into the air spring, and all fittings using a soapy water solution (1/5 liquid dish soap and 4/5 water). (2) Inspect air lines to ensure none are pinched; loosen or replace tie straps if too tight. (3) Inspect the air line for holes and cracks; replace as needed. (4) Look for a kink or fold in the air line and reroute as needed. If these steps do not solve the problem, it is possibly caused by a failed air spring. Call Air Lift customer service at (800) 248-0892 for assistance.
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