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Air Lift
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2001 - 2010 Chevrolet Silverado 2500 HD
Confirmed to Fit
2007 Chevrolet Silverado 2500 HD Classic
Confirmed to Fit
2001 - 2010 Chevrolet Silverado 3500
Confirmed to Fit
2001 - 2010 GMC Sierra 2500 HD
Confirmed to Fit
2001 - 2006 GMC Sierra 3500
Confirmed to Fit
Confirmed to Fit
2008 - 2010 GMC Sierra 3500 HD
Confirmed to Fit
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The LoadLifter 7500 XL Ultimate offers greater leveling strength for towing and hauling with 7-inch double-bellows air springs and up to 7,500 lbs. load-leveling capacity. The fully adjustable kit helps support the most significant loads.
The LoadLifter 7500 XL Ultimate offers support for the heaviest tows with an internal jounce bumper, absorbing shock for the smoothest ride. Air Lift’s fully adjustable, industry-leading air springs are the perfect upgrade for your vehicle, eliminating any issues you might face when towing and hauling. Designed with an internal jounce bumper for select Chevy Silverado/GMC Sierra 2500HD and 3500HD, two-wheel and four-wheel drive, this air spring kit eliminates frequent issues you might face, like bottoming out, squat and trailer sway. Air Lift’s air springs are fully adjustable, and the jounce bumper allows you to tow and haul with lower pressures with 7500 lbs. of load-leveling capacity. The closed-cell urethane foam jounce bumper inside the air spring provides a cushion of air that absorbs shock, eliminates harsh jarring on rough roads, and protects vehicles carrying heavy loads. An Air Lift exclusive, the kit features upper and lower roll plates for added protection. All end caps are made with an ultra-high-strength nylon composite formula, strong as steel but much lighter and corrosion-proof. The air springs are built like tires, reinforced with 2-ply fabric for maximum strength. With the added stability that air springs provide, you can haul safely, knowing that you have optimal braking and steering control. The LoadLifter 7500 XL Ultimate has up to 20% more air spring volume when compared to Air Lift’s LoadLifter 5000 series. The LoadLifter 7500 XL Ultimate’s air springs are maintenance-free, can run safely on zero air pressure, and are fully adjustable from 5-100 PSI for precise control. Do not exceed the vehicle's gross vehicle weight rating (GVWR).
Air Lift Company has developed dependable air spring suspension products since our inception in 1949. Our original product, a rubber air spring inserted into a car’s factory coil spring, was created and patented in 1950. We’ve come a long way since 1949 and are proud to be a dedicated suspension specialist company.
Today, Air Lift load support products are sold worldwide and are engineered to fit over 540 vehicles. Our extensive product line offers air helper springs for trucks, RVs, SUVs, CUVs, and vans, as well as the most technologically advanced on-board air compressor systems for on-the-go air spring control.
Air Lift leads the industry in no-drill applications – kits that bolt onto your vehicle’s frame, speeding the installation process. Our teams work constantly to bring innovative products to you and upgrade existing products with the latest technology.
All of our efforts are spent ensuring your safety and comfort by designing, engineering, and manufacturing the highest quality suspension products. We are a family-owned business based in Lansing, Michigan, and make your family and cargo’s safety our top priority.
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7 compatible vehicles
| Year | Make & Model | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| 2001 - 2010 | Chevrolet Silverado 2500 HD | Does not fit cab & chassis applications Does not fit Quadrasteer applications |
| 2007 | Chevrolet Silverado 2500 HD Classic | Does not fit cab & chassis applications Does not fit Quadrasteer applications |
| 2001 - 2010 | Chevrolet Silverado 3500 | Does not fit cab & chassis applications Does not fit Quadrasteer applications |
| 2001 - 2010 | GMC Sierra 2500 HD | Does not fit cab & chassis applications Does not fit Quadrasteer applications |
| 2001 - 2006 | GMC Sierra 3500 | Does not fit cab & chassis applications Does not fit Quadrasteer applications |
| 2007 | GMC Sierra 3500 Classic | Does not fit cab & chassis applications Does not fit Quadrasteer applications |
| 2008 - 2010 | GMC Sierra 3500 HD | Does not fit cab & chassis applications Does not fit Quadrasteer applications |
The Air Lift LoadLifter 7500 XL Ultimate provides supreme support for heavy hauling 57575 (Part #BBCG57575) fits 2001-2010 Chevrolet Silverado 2500 HD models. The 2010 model year is the last year covered by this part number. For newer models, check for an updated version.
The Air Lift LoadLifter 7500 XL Ultimate provides supreme support for heavy hauling 57575 (Part #BBCG57575) fits the following vehicles: 2001-2010 Chevrolet Silverado 2500 HD; 2007 Chevrolet Silverado 2500 HD Classic; 2001-2010 Chevrolet Silverado 3500; 2001-2010 GMC Sierra 2500 HD; 2001-2006 GMC Sierra 3500; 2007 GMC Sierra 3500 Classic; 2008-2010 GMC Sierra 3500 HD. Always verify your specific year, make, and model before ordering.
Yes, the Air Lift LoadLifter 7500 XL Ultimate provides supreme support for heavy hauling 57575 (Part #BBCG57575) is designed to fit the 2001-2010 Chevrolet Silverado 2500 HD.
The Air Lift LoadLifter 7500 XL Ultimate provides supreme support for heavy hauling 57575 (Part #BBCG57575) Refer to the included instructions for installation details. Basic hand tools are typically all you need.
Yes, Kit 57575 (MN-1043) fits GM 2001-2010 2500/3500 HD trucks in both single rear wheel (SRW) and dual rear wheel (DRW) configurations. However, 2500HD and 3500HD models have different installation requirements for lower brackets and may require different modifications.
The LoadLifter 7500 XL provides up to 7,500 pounds of load-leveling support with air adjustability from 5–100 PSI. However, installation does not alter your vehicle's GVWR or payload. You must not exceed your vehicle's maximum load limits as specified in your owner's manual.
Required tools include: metric and standard open-end box wrenches and sockets; ratchet; 5/16" drill bit and drill; torque wrench; metric and standard hex-key wrenches; file or grinder; hose cutter, razor blade or sharp knife; hoist or floor jack; two safety stands; safety glasses; air compressor or compressed air source; and spray bottle with dish soap/water solution.
The manual does not specify battery disconnection as a requirement for this installation.
Drilling is required only if you choose to install a Schrader valve (inflation valve) in a location that does not already have a 5/16" hole. Common locations include inside the fuel tank filler door, inside rear wheel wells, or the license plate/rear bumper area. If you use an existing hole, drilling is not necessary.
Yes. On 2500HD models, you must remove a small bracket with a nut from the driver's side axle. Additionally, shock brackets may need to be filed or ground down so the lower bracket sits flat on the jounce bumper strike plate. These are permanent modifications.
The 3/8"-16 serrated flange nuts (part R) that attach the upper brackets to the frame must be torqued to 44 lb.-ft. (60 Nm).
Never inflate the air springs beyond 100 PSI. The recommended minimum pressure is 5 PSI. Loaded vehicles require at least 25 PSI. Always maintain normal ride height and do not exceed your vehicle's GVWR regardless of air pressure.
Perform a clearance test at 75–90 PSI (check tire, brakes, frame, shock absorbers and brake cables for 1/2" minimum clearance); leak test all connections; verify 6" clearance from heat sources; recheck all bolt torque; road test for 10 miles and recheck clearance, fasteners and leaks; and perform an overnight leak-down test after 24 hours (pressure loss should not exceed 5 PSI).
Check air pressure weekly. Also recheck the air spring system after 30 days or 500 miles, whichever comes first, and inspect for signs of rubbing or abrasion. Periodically check all fasteners for tightness.
The kit includes: 2 upper brackets (part 07976), 2 lower brackets (03843), 2 air springs (58115), 4 roll plates (11897), fasteners (socket cap screws, hex-cap screws, carriage bolts, hex flange bolts, lock washers, flat washers, nylon lock nuts, serrated flange nuts), 2 swivel elbow fittings (21830), emergency brake cable bracket (10421), 2 axle straps (10465), P-clamp (10466), lower bracket axle spacers (11117), air line (20086), 6 zip ties (10466), 2 valve caps (21230), rubber washers, and hex nuts. See the hardware list on page 5 for complete part numbers and quantities.
Yes, significant differences exist. The 2500HD may require filing or grinding shock brackets and removal of a small bracket from the driver's side axle. The 3500HD requires installation of a lower bracket axle spacer (part M) because the jounce bumper spacer block is higher off the axle. Additionally, the 3500HD requires an emergency brake cable bracket (part J) on the driver's side lower bracket, making the assemblies specific to left and right sides. The 2500HD assemblies are not side-specific.
1. Raise frame and lower axle as far as possible. 2. Remove jounce bumpers and install 3/8"-16 x 1.5" hex flange bolts through existing holes. 3. Install upper brackets and torque to 44 lb.-ft. (60 Nm). 4. Prepare vehicle (trim axle bracket on 2500HD if needed; check shock bracket clearance). 5. Build air spring assemblies with roll plates, swivel fittings, and lower brackets. 6. Install assemblies on axle, hooking legs under strike plate. 7. Raise axle and attach to upper bracket with 3/8"-24 x 7/8" hex-cap screws (leave loose initially). 8. Install axle straps and torque to 10 lb.-ft. (14 Nm). 9. Adjust and torque upper mounting hardware to no more than 20 lb.-ft. (27 Nm). 10. Adjust emergency brake cable. 11. Install air lines and thermal sleeve/heat shield. 12. Perform leak and clearance tests.
Possibly. On the driver's side, a small bracket with a nut must be removed from the axle. Additionally, shock brackets may be too tall for the lower bracket to sit flat on the jounce bumper strike plate. To check: install the 3/8"-16 x 3/4" bolt (part N) into the center hole of the lower bracket with a nylon lock nut (part S), set the bracket on the strike plate, and verify the bolt head touches the axle. If shock brackets prevent this contact, file or grind down the tops of the shock brackets to obtain clearance so the lower bracket sits flat on the axle.
3/8"-24 x 7/8" flat-head socket cap screws (part E) attaching lower bracket to air spring: no more than 20 lb.-ft. (27 Nm). 3/8"-24 x 7/8" hex-cap screws (part F) attaching air spring to upper bracket: no more than 20 lb.-ft. (27 Nm). 3/8"-16 x 2.5" carriage bolts (part O) through lower bracket large holes: torque not specified in manual. Axle straps (part K) with 3/8" flat washers (part H) and 3/8"-16 nylon lock nuts (part S): 10 lb.-ft. (14 Nm). Upper bracket frame mounting with 3/8"-16 serrated flange nuts (part R): 44 lb.-ft. (60 Nm).
On the 3500HD, the lower bracket axle spacer and emergency brake cable bracket are attached with 5/16"-18 x 1 1/8" hex-cap screws (part Q), 5/16" flat washers (part U), and 5/16"-18 nylon lock nuts (part T). Snug the emergency brake cable bracket hardware only enough so it still swivels; torque all other mounting hardware to 18 lb.-ft. (24 Nm). On the 2500HD, the emergency brake cable bracket is attached to the lower bracket with the same fasteners, snugged but left loose enough to rotate. The P-clamp (part L) is then attached with one 5/16"-18 x 1 1/8" hex-cap screw (part Q), 5/16" flat washers (part U), and 5/16"-18 nylon lock nut (part T), and all hardware is tightened to 18 lb.-ft. (24 Nm).
Choose a location for the Schrader valve such as inside the fuel tank filler door, inside a rear wheel well, or the license plate/rear bumper area. If the location does not have a 5/16" hole, drill one. Install the Schrader valve through the hole using the included hex nuts, flat washer, star washer, and rubber washer. The rubber washer goes between the valve and the vehicle body/bumper to create a seal. Connect the nylon air line to the barbed fitting on the valve.
Cut the air line in half using a razor blade or hose cutter, making clean, square cuts (do not use scissors or wire cutters). Route the hose forward of the assembly on the passenger side. Use zip ties to secure the air line to fixed points along the chassis. Do not pinch or kink the air line. Leave at least 2" of slack to allow for suspension movement. The minimum bend radius is 1". Keep at least 6" clearance between all air lines and the exhaust system. Avoid sharp bends and edges. Slide an air line thermal sleeve onto the hose and push it to cover all nylon air line up to the fitting.
Maintain at least 1/2" clearance from anything that might rub against each air spring sleeve when inflated to 75–90 PSI. Check the tire, brakes, frame, shock absorbers, and brake cables. Keep at least 6" clearance between all air lines and the exhaust system. If a heat shield is included in the kit, install it. If clearance cannot be achieved and no heat shield is provided, contact Air Lift customer service at (800) 248-0892.
The recommended minimum air pressure is 5 PSI. However, the system can safely be run at zero air pressure when the vehicle is unladen (carrying no load). Loaded vehicles require at least 25 PSI. A "loaded vehicle" refers to a vehicle with a heavy bed load, a trailer, or both. Operating the vehicle below the minimum air spring pressure will void the Air Lift warranty.
Inflate the air springs to 30 PSI. Spray all connections and inflation valves with a solution of 1/5 liquid dish soap and 4/5 water. Spot leaks by looking for bubbles in the soapy water. After testing, deflate to the minimum pressure required to restore normal ride height (not lower than 5 PSI). Check air pressure again after 24 hours. A 2–4 PSI loss after initial installation is normal. If loss exceeds 5 PSI, retest for leaks. Before road testing, inflate to 75–90 PSI and check all connections for leaks; all leaks must be eliminated before driving.
First, check the air line connection: deflate the spring, remove the line by pulling the collar against the fitting and pulling firmly on the air line, trim 1" off the end of the air line with a clean, square cut, and reinsert the air line into the push-to-connect fitting. If the leak persists, check the threaded connection by tightening the swivel fitting another half turn. If it still leaks, deflate the air spring, remove the fitting, re-coat the threads with thread sealant, and reinstall by hand-tightening as much as possible, then use a wrench for an additional two turns. If the problem continues, contact Air Lift customer service at (800) 248-0892.
First, check the valve core by tightening it with a valve core tool. If the leak persists, check the air line by removing it from the barbed fitting. Cut the air line a few inches in front of the fitting and use pliers or vice grips to pull/twist the air line off the fitting. Do not cut off the air line completely as this will nick the barb and render the fitting useless. If these steps do not resolve the problem, contact Air Lift customer service at (800) 248-0892.
Perform a leak test on the air line connections, the threaded connection into the air spring, and all fittings in the control system. Check to make sure air lines are seated in connectors. Inspect fittings with soapy water. Trim the hose or re-seal the fitting, ensuring lines are cut straight. Look for a kink or fold in the air line and replace any kinked air line. A 2–4 PSI loss after initial installation is normal, but if loss exceeds 5 PSI after 24 hours, there is a leak that must be fixed.
Pressure tuning depends on three factors: level vehicle, ride comfort, and stability. For a level vehicle, raise air pressure if headlights shine into trees or the vehicle leans to one side. For ride comfort, if the ride is rough or harsh, try different pressures to find the best comfort. For stability (the priority), address roll control, bounce, dive during braking, and sponginess by increasing pressure. Start with the vehicle level or slightly above. When in doubt, always add air. If the front dives while braking, increase front air bag pressure. If air bags bottom out, increase pressure. Adjust pressure up and down to find the best ride. If the vehicle rocks and rolls, adjust pressure to reduce movement. It may be necessary to maintain different pressures on each side (up to 50 PSI difference is not uncommon for uneven loads like water, fuel, or appliances).
Check air pressure weekly. Always maintain normal ride height and never inflate beyond 100 PSI. If a leak develops, use soapy water (1/5 liquid dish soap and 4/5 water) to check all air line connections and the inflation valve core before deflating. Periodically check all fasteners for tightness and inspect air springs for signs of rubbing; realign if necessary. On occasion, spray the air springs with a garden hose to remove mud, sand, gravel, or debris. Recheck the system after 30 days or 500 miles, whichever comes first, for signs of rubbing or abrasion. If the vehicle will be on a hoist for a prolonged period, support the axle with jack stands to reduce tension on the air springs.
No. Installing air springs will not change your vehicle's weight ratings (GAWR, GCWR, and/or GVWR). Exceeding the GVWR is dangerous and voids the Air Lift warranty. You must not exceed the maximum load limits specified in your vehicle's owner's manual and on the Safety Compliance Certification Label.
No. Air pressure can be adjusted with any type of compressor as long as it can produce sufficient pressure to service the springs. Even a bicycle tire pump can be used, though it requires significant effort. A dedicated on-board air compressor system is optional, not required.
If the air springs are properly installed and maintained, they can last indefinitely. Proper maintenance includes checking air pressure weekly, maintaining normal ride height, avoiding exceeding 100 PSI, checking for leaks, periodically checking fasteners for tightness, and inspecting for signs of rubbing or abrasion.
Yes, the vehicle can be lifted on a hoist for short-term service work such as tire rotation or oil changes. However, if the vehicle will be on the hoist for a prolonged period, support the axle with jack stands to take the tension off the air springs. Use of on-board leveling systems does not require deflation or disconnection.
Remove the wire emergency brake cable bracket from the side of the driver's side frame rail and twist the top cable out of the small upper loop in the bracket. Reattach the wire bracket to the frame. On 2500HD models, attach the emergency brake cable bracket (part J) to the front inside corner of the driver's side lower bracket with a 5/16"-18 x 1 1/8" hex-cap screw (part Q), 5/16" flat washers (part U), and 5/16"-18 nylon lock nut (part T), snugged but loose enough so the bracket can rotate. On both 2500HD and 3500HD models, attach the P-clamp (part L) over the emergency brake cable to the emergency brake cable bracket with one 5/16"-18 x 1 1/8" hex-cap screw (part Q), 5/16" flat washers (part U), and 5/16"-18 nylon lock nut (part T). Align the bracket and P-clamp perpendicular to the air spring and tighten all hardware to 18 lb.-ft. (24 Nm). If the cable is close to the tank, bend the bracket slightly toward the air spring for more clearance.
1. Set roll plates (part D) on both ends of the air spring (part C) with the radiused (rounded) edge toward the air spring. 2. Install a 90-degree swivel air fitting (part I) to the top of the air spring, tightening finger-tight plus 1 1/2 turns on the metal hex nut only; do not overtighten. 3. Insert two 3/8"-16 x 2.5" carriage bolts (part O) through the large holes in the lower bracket into the square holes on the lower bracket flanges. 4. Set the lower bracket onto the roll plate/air spring assembly with the flanges on the opposite side of the fitting. 5. Attach the lower bracket to the air spring with two 3/8"-24 x 7/8" flat-head socket cap screws (part E) and torque to no more than 20 lb.-ft. (27 Nm).
Set the assemblies onto the axle on both sides, hooking the lower legs under the jounce bumper strike plate. For 2500HD, the assemblies are not side-specific. For 3500HD, install the assembly with the emergency brake cable bracket on the driver's (left) side. Center the assembly somewhat under the upper bracket already installed on the frame. Point the fitting inboard to avoid damage while raising the axle. Align the holes in the roll plates with the upper mounting holes in the upper air spring end cap. Raise the axle to within 1/8" of the upper bracket. Attach the air spring to the upper bracket with 3/8"-24 x 7/8" hex-cap screws (part F), 3/8" lock washers (part G), and 3/8" flat washers (part H). Leave loose at this time. Lower the vehicle and remove jack stands. If necessary, move the lower bracket in and out on the axle to locate the air spring perpendicular to the upper bracket. Install the axle strap (part K) over the axle and onto the carriage bolts in the lower bracket, cap with 3/8" flat washers (part H) and 3/8"-16 nylon lock nuts (part S), and torque evenly to 10 lb.-ft. (14 Nm). Adjust the upper spring forward or back in the slots of the upper bracket to align and torque the upper mounting hardware to no more than 20 lb.-ft. (27 Nm).
Cut the air line in half using a razor blade or hose cutter, making clean, square cuts. Do not use scissors or wire cutters. A good cut is perpendicular to the hose; a bad cut is angled or ragged. When removing the air line from a barbed fitting, cut the air line a few inches in front of the fitting and use pliers or vice grips to pull/twist the air line off. Do not cut off the air line completely as this will nick the barb and render the fitting useless. If you need to trim the end of an installed air line, trim 1" off the end and ensure the cut is clean and square before reinserting into a push-to-connect fitting.
Route the hose forward of the assembly on the passenger side. Slide an air line thermal sleeve onto the hose and, once inserted into the fitting, push the thermal sleeve so it covers all the nylon air line up to the fitting. Bend tabs on the heat shield to provide a 1/2" dead air space between the exhaust pipe and heat shield. Attach the heat shield to the exhaust pipe using clamps. Bend the heat shield for maximum clearance to the air spring. Some vehicles have large resonators in this area; it may be necessary to double up on clamps to fit these models.
Raise the frame and support it with jack stands. Lower the axle as far as it can go. Then remove both jounce bumpers from under the frame and discard them. Insert two 3/8"-16 x 1.5" hex flange bolts (part P) through both existing jounce bumper holes on both left and right frame rails.
On some models, it may be necessary to pull the Christmas tree mount on the harness out of the way of the upper bracket by pulling it from the upper frame flange. This is done to ensure the upper bracket can be properly positioned without interference.
The hard brake line must not touch or rub the edge of the upper bracket. When indexing the upper bracket into position, make sure the hard brake line goes in between the two upper bracket frame supports. Push the line out of the way to obtain clearance if necessary. Rubbing can damage the brake line and compromise braking safety.
Look for a kink or fold in the air line. Replace any air line that has been kinked. Kinks can restrict air flow or cause leaks. Also perform a leak test using soapy water on all connections and fittings to identify the source of the leak.
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