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These dependable custom hitches are manufactured for 2013-2018 Toyota Avalon, 2012-2017 Toyota Camry and attach to your vehicle?s frame or bumper for a sleek, clean appearance. Each hitch also has a 1-1/4 inch square receiver tube opening so you can easily attach accessories like a bike rack or cargo carrier, or a utility trailer. DRAW-TITE Class 2 custom trailer hitches come complete with all the mounting hardware needed for installation and are backed by a nationwide lifetime limited warranty. So, whether you are headed out to the campground and need a place for the cooler, taking the bikes to hit the trails in the park, or you are tackling a DIY project (maybe some landscaping or a home repair), choose DRAW-TITE and travel with confidence knowing your setup is connected with the security only DRAW-TITE can provide. DRAW-TITE: North America?s Favorite Hitch.
Draw-Tite has designed custom-fit trailer hitches since 1946 and is one of North America's most widely fitted hitch brands. Receiver hitches use solid all-welded construction and low-profile designs that follow modern vehicle contours, install with minimal bumper cutting or drilling, meet or exceed V5 CSA and SAE J684 standards, and carry a limited lifetime warranty.
Draw-Tite has been leading custom-fit trailer hitch design and engineering since its founding in 1946, and it remains one of the most widely fitted hitch brands in North America. The company's stated approach is straightforward: every hitch is tested rigorously so that it performs well beyond published industry standards, a philosophy it markets as Tested Tough. It sits within the Horizon Global towing group alongside Reese, Fulton, Bulldog, Tekonsha, Bargman and Wesbar.
Custom fit is the defining characteristic. Rather than adapting a universal design, Draw-Tite engineers a trailer hitch for a specific make, model and model year, so it bolts to existing frame locations with minimal bumper cutting or drilling. Low-profile designs follow the rear contours and aerodynamic styling of modern vehicles, which matters more than it once did now that rear fascias are shaped and sensor-equipped. Construction is solid all-welded steel for maximum strength, and every hitch meets or exceeds V5 CSA and SAE J684 standards and is backed by a nationwide limited lifetime warranty.
The range spans receiver sizes and classes to suit different loads, from 1-1/4 inch receivers for bike racks, cargo carriers and light trailers up through 2 inch receivers for heavier towing. Front mount hitches add a receiver at the front of the vehicle for winch mounts, snow plows, spare carriers and precise trailer positioning.
The Hidden Hitch series takes concealment further by mounting behind the vehicle's rear fascia, so the vehicle keeps its factory appearance until a removable receiver is fitted. Each is custom designed per make and model for a no-drill installation that does not compromise ground clearance, rated for up to 3,500 pounds gross trailer weight and 350 pounds tongue weight. Matching plug-and-play wiring completes the towing system.
Experts available to answer your questions
Call 888-634-94941 compatible vehicles
| Year | Make & Model | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| 1999 | Toyota Camry | Except Hybrid |
The 2012-2017 Toyota Camry Except Hybrid Draw-tite Class 2 Trailer Hitch, 1-1/4 Inch Square Receiver Bundle w/ Plug-n-Play T-One Wiring Harness (Part #DTB36540-118405) fits the following vehicles: 1999 Toyota Camry. Always verify your specific year, make, and model before ordering.
Yes, the 2012-2017 Toyota Camry Except Hybrid Draw-tite Class 2 Trailer Hitch, 1-1/4 Inch Square Receiver Bundle w/ Plug-n-Play T-One Wiring Harness (Part #DTB36540-118405) is designed to fit the 1999 Toyota Camry.
The 2012-2017 Toyota Camry Except Hybrid Draw-tite Class 2 Trailer Hitch, 1-1/4 Inch Square Receiver Bundle w/ Plug-n-Play T-One Wiring Harness (Part #DTB36540-118405) fits 1999 Toyota Camry models. The 1999 model year is the last year covered by this part number. For newer models, check for an updated version.
The 2012-2017 Toyota Camry Except Hybrid Draw-tite Class 2 Trailer Hitch, 1-1/4 Inch Square Receiver Bundle w/ Plug-n-Play T-One Wiring Harness (Part #DTB36540-118405) Refer to the included instructions for installation details. Basic hand tools are typically all you need.
Yes, part number 36540 is designed to fit both Toyota Camry and Toyota Avalon. However, the installation procedure differs between the two models. Camry installation requires drilling two ½" pilot holes and then a 1" hole in the frame rail. Avalon installation requires drilling one ¼" pilot hole and then a 1" hole. Both models also have different exhaust configurations and heat shield locations that affect the installation process.
Yes, hitch 36540 can be installed on a Toyota Camry Hybrid, but with a modification on the passenger side. Instead of drilling a hole in the frame, you remove the rearmost bolt from the battery bracket attached to the frame and attach the hitch using the supplied M8 x 40mm hex bolt. Drilling is still required on the driver's side of the vehicle. The same procedure applies to Avalon Hybrid models.
For Camry installation, you will need: wrenches in 10mm, 12mm, 14mm, 17mm, and 11/16" sizes; drill bits in ½" and 1" sizes; a utility knife; and lubricant or soapy water. A torque wrench is required to tighten fasteners to specification. For Avalon installation, you will also need a 6" socket extension and an additional ¼" drill bit, plus straps or bungee cords to support the exhaust.
For Camry: Remove the appearance panel if it covers the driver's side frame rails. You may need to trim or remove part of the panel; obtain vehicle owner approval before trimming. For Avalon: Remove the appearance panel completely and return it to the owner. Some newer model vehicles may not require trimming. If the Camry panel is not reinstalled, there will be a ¾" to 1" gap between the hitch and fascia.
Yes, lowering the exhaust is required for both Camry and Avalon installations. For Camry: Remove two bolts at the exhaust hanger bracket and remove the rubber isolator on the forward side of the exhaust. For Avalon: Remove two bolts at the end panel and two bolts on the frame rail exhaust hanger bracket on each side. Support the exhaust with straps or bungee cords to prevent damage. Spraying lubricant or soapy water on the metal hanger rod and rubber isolator helps with removal.
Yes, the heat shield must be removed before raising the hitch into position. After drilling the frame rail hole and marking the heat shield for the 7/16" carriage bolt, the heat shield is reinstalled later in the process using M6 bolts as needed.
Yes, drilling is required on both sides of the Camry frame rail. You must drill a ½" pilot hole on both sides, then lower the hitch and drill a 1" hole in the frame rail on both sides. You will also drill the heat shield for the 7/16" carriage bolt. Drilling is permanent and cannot be avoided unless the vehicle is a Hybrid model, in which case drilling is still required on the driver's side only.
For Avalon installation, drill a ¼" pilot hole on both sides first, then lower the hitch and drill a 1" hole in the frame rail on both sides. You will also drill the heat shield for the 7/16" carriage bolt. Additionally, drill a ½" to ¾" hole for the forward rubber isolator bracket location.
Tighten all M10 CL8.8 hex bolts to 38 Lb.-Ft. (52 N·M) using a torque wrench. This applies to both Camry and Avalon installations.
Tighten all 7/16" GR5 carriage bolts to 50 Lb.-Ft. (68 N·M) using a torque wrench. This applies to both Camry and Avalon installations.
Tighten the M8 CL10.9 hex bolt to 27 Lb.-Ft. (37 N·M) using a torque wrench. This bolt is used on Hybrid models to attach the hitch to the battery bracket on the passenger side.
The maximum gross trailer weight is 3500 lbs (1589 kg) and the maximum tongue weight is 300 lbs (136 kg). However, do not exceed the lower of the towing vehicle manufacturer's rating or these specifications.
The fastener kit (36540F for Camry or 36514F for Avalon) includes: 4 M10 x 1.25 x 40 CL8.8 hex bolts, 2 7/16-14 x 1.5 GR5 carriage bolts, 2 7/16-14 hex nuts, 5 3/8" conical washers, 2 7/16" conical washers, 1 M8-1.25 x 50 CL10.9 hex bolt, 2 0.915 x 3.000 x 10GA spacers, and 2 M6 x 1.0 x 40 hex bolts.
No, the drawbar is not included. The drawbar kit (part number 36071) is sold separately. The hitch must be used in the RISE position only.
Observe safety precautions when working beneath a vehicle and wear eye protection. Do not cut access or attachment holes with a torch. If the hitch is removed, plug all holes in the trunk pan or other body panels to prevent entry of water and exhaust fumes. A hitch or ball that has been damaged should be removed and replaced.
Check the hitch frequently, making sure all fasteners and the ball are properly tightened. Verify that all fasteners have been tightened to the required torque specifications: M10 bolts to 38 Lb.-Ft. (52 N·M), 7/16" carriage bolts to 50 Lb.-Ft. (68 N·M), and M8 bolts to 27 Lb.-Ft. (37 N·M).
Check the hitch frequently to ensure all fasteners and the ball are properly tightened. The manual does not specify an exact interval, but recommends regular inspection.
For Camry: Raise the hitch into position and install M10 bolts on the driver's side first. Then remove the pull wire and install conical washers and nuts on the passenger side. Install the exhaust hanger bracket on the passenger side, then remove the pull wire and install conical washers and nuts on the driver's side. For Avalon: Install at least one M10 bolt on both sides, then remove the pull wire and install conical washers and nuts on both sides. Center the hitch and torque the 7/16" fasteners to specification.
The pull wire is attached to the carriage bolt and spacer and is used to thread the bolt through the bracket when raising the hitch into position. After the hitch is raised and the M10 bolts are installed, the pull wire is removed and conical washers and nuts are installed in its place.
Yes, the exhaust hanger bracket must be reinstalled. For Camry: Install the exhaust hanger bracket on the passenger side after removing the pull wire and installing conical washers and nuts. For Avalon: Remove the M10 bolts and install the exhaust hanger brackets through the forward weld nut on both sides. Bend the tab on the exhaust hanger to allow the bracket to lay flat on the hitch bracket.
For Camry: Yes, reinstall the appearance panel after drilling the frame rail holes and before raising the hitch into position. For Avalon: The appearance panel is removed and returned to the owner; it is not reinstalled as part of the hitch installation.
Yes, the heat shield must be reinstalled after the hitch is raised into position and the fasteners are installed. Reinstall the heat shield using M6 bolts as needed.
Yes, after all hitch fasteners are tightened and the heat shield is reinstalled, raise the exhaust back into position. For Camry: Reinstall the rubber isolator and bolts at the exhaust hanger bracket. For Avalon: Reinstall the rubber isolator brackets and bolts at the end panel and frame rail exhaust hanger bracket.
Yes, part 36540 fits both Toyota Camry and Avalon, but installation procedures differ. Camry requires two ½" pilot holes; Avalon requires one ¼" pilot hole. Both require a 1" frame rail hole.
Yes, drilling is required on both sides of the frame rail. Camry: drill ½" pilot holes, then 1" holes. Avalon: drill ¼" pilot holes, then 1" holes. Drilling is permanent and cannot be avoided except on Hybrid passenger side.
Wrenches: 10mm, 12mm, 14mm, 17mm, 11/16" (Camry); add 6" socket extension for Avalon. Drill bits: ½" and 1" (Camry); add ¼" for Avalon. Torque wrench required. Utility knife, lubricant or soapy water, and straps/bungee cords for exhaust support.
M10 CL8.8 bolts: 38 Lb.-Ft. (52 N·M). 7/16" GR5 carriage bolts: 50 Lb.-Ft. (68 N·M). M8 CL10.9 bolts (Hybrid): 27 Lb.-Ft. (37 N·M). Use a torque wrench for all fasteners.
Maximum gross trailer weight: 3500 lbs (1589 kg). Maximum tongue weight: 300 lbs (136 kg). Do not exceed the lower of the towing vehicle manufacturer's rating or these specifications.
Wear eye protection when working beneath the vehicle. Do not cut holes with a torch. If removed, plug all frame holes to prevent water and exhaust fume entry. Check fasteners and ball frequently. Replace any damaged hitch or ball immediately.
Check all fasteners and tighten them to the required torque specifications using a torque wrench: M10 CL8.8 bolts to 38 Lb.-Ft. (52 N·M), 7/16" GR5 carriage bolts to 50 Lb.-Ft. (68 N·M), and M8 CL10.9 bolts to 27 Lb.-Ft. (37 N·M). The manual recommends checking the hitch frequently to ensure all fasteners and the ball remain properly tightened.
A hitch or ball that has been damaged should be removed and replaced immediately. Do not continue to use a damaged hitch or ball for towing.
Spray lubricant or soapy water on the metal hanger rod and the rubber isolator. This helps ease removal of the rubber isolator from the muffler. Allow the lubricant to soak for a few moments before attempting removal again.
The T-Connector is a trailer wiring adapter that allows you to connect a trailer to your vehicle's electrical system. It taps into your vehicle's existing taillight wiring to provide power for trailer lights. The product includes a black box connector, wiring harnesses with colour-coded wires (red, yellow, green, black, and white), a fuse holder with a 10 amp fuse, butt connectors, an eyelet, a screw, foam-padded tape, double-sided tape, and cable ties.
The T-Connector 18405-037 is designed for Mazda 6 Sedan and Coupe, Toyota Camry, Mazda CX-7, and Toyota FJ Cruiser. Each vehicle has specific installation instructions. If your vehicle is not listed, this product will not fit.
Yes. The Toyota FJ Cruiser has significantly different installation instructions that begin on page 4 of the manual. The FJ Cruiser installation involves removing the jack storage compartment door, threshold plate, trim panels, and access panels. If your vehicle is equipped with an optional subwoofer unit on the passenger side, additional removal steps are required. The wiring connection points and routing are also different from the other supported vehicles.
You will need: a drill with a 3/32" drill bit, a Phillips head screwdriver, a 10mm socket and ratchet or 10mm wrench, wire crimpers, wire cutters, and a trim panel remover tool. These tools are required for the standard installation on Mazda 6, Toyota Camry, and Mazda CX-7. The Toyota FJ Cruiser installation requires the same tools.
Yes. You must disconnect the vehicle's negative (-) battery cable before connecting the fuse holder to the positive battery cable. This is done in step 7 of the installation. After all wiring connections are complete, you reconnect the negative battery cable in step 8 and install the 10 amp fuse.
Drilling is required only for the grounding connection (step 5). You must drill a 3/32" hole to secure the white ground wire using the supplied eyelet and screw. However, if your vehicle has an existing ground stud, you can use that instead by loosening the bolt, placing the screw eyelet on the stud, and re-tightening the bolt. Before drilling, you must verify what is behind the surface to avoid damage to the vehicle or personal injury. Do not drill into any exposed surfaces.
Yes, depending on your vehicle. For Toyota Camry and Mazda CX-7, you must carefully slit a rubber grommet to route the black 12 gauge wire out underneath the vehicle. For Mazda 6 Sedan and Coupe, the wire is routed through the taillight socket opening instead. For Toyota FJ Cruiser, you must cut a hole in the rubber grommet located near the wheel well to route the black wire through.
The T-Connector uses colour-coded wires for different functions: Red wire connects to the driver's side taillight for stop/turn signals; Yellow wire connects to the driver's side taillight for additional stop/turn signals; Green wire connects to the passenger's side taillight for stop/turn signals; Black wire connects to the vehicle's positive battery through a 10 amp fuse for power; White wire is the ground connection to the vehicle's chassis or frame.
The 10 amp fuse protects the circuit from overload. It is installed in the yellow fuse holder provided with the T-Connector. The fuse holder is connected between the black 12 gauge wire (which runs from the vehicle's positive battery terminal) and the black wire from the T-Connector black box. The fuse must be installed in step 8 after all other connections are complete.
Approximately 2 feet (0.60 meters) of black 12 gauge wire is routed into the trunk area. The remaining wire is routed through the opening in the taillight socket and behind the bumper (for Mazda 6), or out underneath the vehicle (for Toyota Camry and Mazda CX-7), or along the frame rail and through a grommet near the wheel well (for Toyota FJ Cruiser).
The T-Connector has the following maximum load limits: Max. stop/turn light: 1 per side (2.1 amps); Max. tail lights: (4.2 amps). Do not exceed the lower of your towing manufacturer's rating or these limits. Overloading the circuit can cause fires. Consult your vehicle's owner's manual and instruction sheet for additional information about your specific towing capacity.
After installation is complete, test and verify the installation with a test light or by connecting an actual trailer. All connections must be complete for the T-Connector to function properly. The manual emphasizes that testing is essential before using the T-Connector with a trailer.
After installation, verify that: all wiring connectors are fully inserted with locking tabs in place; the taillight housing is properly seated on its alignment tab (Mazda 6); the black wire is positioned between the taillight housing gasket and foam-padded tape (Mazda 6); all cable ties are secure and wires are protected from pinching or cutting; the T-Connector black box is securely mounted with double-sided tape; the 10 amp fuse is installed in the fuse holder; the negative battery cable is reconnected; and the installation functions properly with a test light or trailer.
The T-Connector black box is mounted on the driver's side on the floor of the rear cargo area. The area must be cleaned with a mixture of rubbing alcohol and water before mounting. The black box is secured using the double-sided tape provided with the T-Connector. After mounting, the trunk threshold and felt trunk liner are replaced.
The black 12 gauge wire must be routed carefully from the vehicle's positive battery terminal to the T-Connector black box. You must avoid hot pipes, heat shields, the fuel tank, and any other points that may pinch or break the wire. For Mazda 6, Toyota Camry, and Mazda CX-7, the wire is routed underneath the bumper and into the engine compartment. For Toyota FJ Cruiser, the wire is routed from the front of the vehicle along the frame rail rearward to the rear driver's side, then through a rubber grommet near the wheel well.
No. Only the Mazda 6 Sedan and Coupe require removal of the driver's side taillight housing. For Toyota Camry and Mazda CX-7, the taillight housing is not removed; instead, you access the wiring through the trunk area and route the black wire through a rubber grommet. For Toyota FJ Cruiser, the taillight connectors are accessed by removing interior trim panels and access panels, but the taillight housing itself is not removed.
The foam-padded tape is applied to the driver's side taillight socket area (Mazda 6 only) to cover any sharp edges on the sheet metal. The black 12 gauge wire is positioned between the taillight housing gasket and the foam-padded tape to protect the wire from being pinched or damaged. The area must be cleaned with a mixture of rubbing alcohol and water before applying the tape.
The yellow butt connector is used to join two wires together. In the T-Connector installation, it is used in two places: (1) to connect the black 12 gauge wire and the red wire from the T-Connector black box (step 4), and (2) to connect the fuse holder to the black 12 gauge wire from the battery (step 7). The yellow butt connector is supplied with the T-Connector kit.
The T-Connector has separate harnesses with colour-coded wires that plug into the vehicle's existing taillight connectors. On the driver's side, attach the T-Connector harnesses containing the red and yellow wires to the connection points on the back of the driver's side taillight housing. On the passenger's side, attach the T-Connector harness containing the green wire to the connection points on the back of the passenger's side taillight housing. Ensure that all connectors are fully inserted with locking tabs in place. For Toyota FJ Cruiser, the connections are made to the vehicle's 3-pin and 2-pin rear tail lamp connectors.
The 4-flat connector should be stored in the rear cargo area (trunk) when not in use. This keeps it protected and readily available when you need to connect a trailer.
The cable ties are used to secure the remainder of the T-Connector harness to prevent damage or rattling. They must be applied carefully to avoid any areas that would cut or pinch the wire. Proper cable tie placement protects the wiring from being damaged during vehicle operation.
If your Toyota FJ Cruiser is equipped with an optional subwoofer unit on the passenger side, you must remove it before installing the T-Connector. The subwoofer removal involves: removing the access panel below the subwoofer; removing the front trim/grill assembly (8 clips); removing four 10mm bolts (an extension is needed for the two upper bolts); disconnecting the wiring harness; and carefully removing the subwoofer unit. After the T-Connector installation is complete, you must reinstall the subwoofer unit and ensure its connection plug is fully inserted.
For Toyota FJ Cruiser: (1) Locate the trailer wiring harness on the driver's side and route the red and yellow wire harnesses behind the trim panel to the access panel location; (2) Locate the vehicle's 3-pin rear tail lamp connector, separate it, and plug the red wire harness between the separated halves; (3) Locate the vehicle's 2-pin rear tail lamp connector, separate it, and plug the yellow wire harness between the separated halves; (4) Route the green wire harness to the passenger's side by routing it out of the driver's side trim panel, along the rear threshold area, behind the passenger's side trim panel, to the access panel location; (5) Repeat the 2-pin connector connection using the green wire harness on the passenger's side.
On the Toyota FJ Cruiser, the white ground wire with the ring terminal is connected to the bolt on the left side of the jack inside the jack storage compartment. You remove the bolt using a 10mm socket, place the ring terminal on the bolt, and re-tighten the bolt to secure the ground connection.
Yes. Disconnect the vehicle's negative (-) battery cable before connecting the fuse holder to the positive battery terminal. Reconnect it after all wiring is complete and the 10 amp fuse is installed.
The T-Connector uses a 10 amp fuse installed in the yellow fuse holder provided. This fuse protects the circuit from overload. Do not exceed the maximum load limits: 1 stop/turn light per side (2.1 amps) or max. tail lights (4.2 amps).
Max. stop/turn light: 1 per side (2.1 amps); Max. tail lights: (4.2 amps). Do not exceed the lower of your towing manufacturer's rating or these limits. Overloading can cause fires.
Verify that all connections are complete and fully inserted. Check that all T-Connector harnesses are properly connected to the vehicle's taillight connectors with locking tabs in place. Verify that the black 12 gauge wire is properly connected to the red wire from the T-Connector black box using the yellow butt connector. Verify that the white ground wire is properly secured to a ground point. Verify that the fuse holder is properly connected to the vehicle's positive battery terminal and that the 10 amp fuse is installed. Verify that the negative battery cable is reconnected. Test the installation with a test light or trailer to confirm proper operation.
Ensure that the black 12 gauge wire is positioned correctly between the taillight housing gasket and the foam-padded tape. Verify that the foam-padded tape is properly applied to the taillight socket area and covers any sharp sheet metal edges. Carefully replace the taillight housing, ensuring it is properly seated on its alignment tab. Replace the two 10mm nuts and tighten them securely. The taillight housing should sit flush against the vehicle body with no gaps.
For Toyota FJ Cruiser, the tail lamp plug area is very small and may be difficult to reach with your hands. Long nose pliers may be used to assist in the removal and connection of the plugs. Ensure that you are inserting the connectors straight and fully, with locking tabs properly engaged. Do not force the connectors, as this may damage the locking tabs.
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