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1985 - 1986 Chevrolet Spark
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These dependable custom hitches are manufactured for 2016-2022 Chevrolet Spark and attach to your vehicle?s frame or bumper for a sleek, clean appearance. Each hitch also has a 1-1/4 inch square receiver tube opening so you can easily attach accessories like a bike rack or cargo carrier, or a utility trailer. DRAW-TITE Class 1 custom trailer hitches come complete with all the mounting hardware needed for installation and are backed by a nationwide lifetime limited warranty. So, whether you are headed out to the campground and need a place for the cooler, taking the bikes to hit the trails in the park, or you are tackling a DIY project (maybe some landscaping or a home repair), choose DRAW-TITE and travel with confidence knowing your setup is connected with the security only DRAW-TITE can provide. DRAW-TITE: North America?s Favorite Hitch.
Draw-Tite has designed custom-fit trailer hitches since 1946 and is one of North America's most widely fitted hitch brands. Receiver hitches use solid all-welded construction and low-profile designs that follow modern vehicle contours, install with minimal bumper cutting or drilling, meet or exceed V5 CSA and SAE J684 standards, and carry a limited lifetime warranty.
Draw-Tite has been leading custom-fit trailer hitch design and engineering since its founding in 1946, and it remains one of the most widely fitted hitch brands in North America. The company's stated approach is straightforward: every hitch is tested rigorously so that it performs well beyond published industry standards, a philosophy it markets as Tested Tough. It sits within the Horizon Global towing group alongside Reese, Fulton, Bulldog, Tekonsha, Bargman and Wesbar.
Custom fit is the defining characteristic. Rather than adapting a universal design, Draw-Tite engineers a trailer hitch for a specific make, model and model year, so it bolts to existing frame locations with minimal bumper cutting or drilling. Low-profile designs follow the rear contours and aerodynamic styling of modern vehicles, which matters more than it once did now that rear fascias are shaped and sensor-equipped. Construction is solid all-welded steel for maximum strength, and every hitch meets or exceeds V5 CSA and SAE J684 standards and is backed by a nationwide limited lifetime warranty.
The range spans receiver sizes and classes to suit different loads, from 1-1/4 inch receivers for bike racks, cargo carriers and light trailers up through 2 inch receivers for heavier towing. Front mount hitches add a receiver at the front of the vehicle for winch mounts, snow plows, spare carriers and precise trailer positioning.
The Hidden Hitch series takes concealment further by mounting behind the vehicle's rear fascia, so the vehicle keeps its factory appearance until a removable receiver is fitted. Each is custom designed per make and model for a no-drill installation that does not compromise ground clearance, rated for up to 3,500 pounds gross trailer weight and 350 pounds tongue weight. Matching plug-and-play wiring completes the towing system.
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Call 888-634-94941 compatible vehicles
| Year | Make & Model | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| 1985 - 1986 | Chevrolet Spark | — |
The 2016-2022 Chevrolet Spark Draw-tite Class 1 Trailer Hitch, 1-1/4 Inch Square Receiver Bundle w/ Plug-n-Play T-One Wiring Harness (Part #DTB24941-118694) fits 1985-1986 Chevrolet Spark models. The 1986 model year is the last year covered by this part number. For newer models, check for an updated version.
The 2016-2022 Chevrolet Spark Draw-tite Class 1 Trailer Hitch, 1-1/4 Inch Square Receiver Bundle w/ Plug-n-Play T-One Wiring Harness (Part #DTB24941-118694) fits the following vehicles: 1985-1986 Chevrolet Spark. Always verify your specific year, make, and model before ordering.
Yes, the 2016-2022 Chevrolet Spark Draw-tite Class 1 Trailer Hitch, 1-1/4 Inch Square Receiver Bundle w/ Plug-n-Play T-One Wiring Harness (Part #DTB24941-118694) is designed to fit the 1985-1986 Chevrolet Spark.
The 2016-2022 Chevrolet Spark Draw-tite Class 1 Trailer Hitch, 1-1/4 Inch Square Receiver Bundle w/ Plug-n-Play T-One Wiring Harness (Part #DTB24941-118694) Refer to the included instructions for installation details. Basic hand tools are typically all you need.
Yes, part number 24941 is designed for 2016-current Chevrolet Spark models. For the most up-to-date information regarding specific application years and trim levels, visit the Cequent website.
No. Part number 24941 is designed for 2016-current Chevrolet Spark models only. For information about compatibility with earlier model years, contact Cequent technical support at 800-632-3290 or visit www.cequentgroup.com.
The 24941 is a weight-carrying hitch with a maximum gross trailer weight of 2000 lb (908 kg) and maximum tongue weight of 200 lb (90.8 kg). Do not exceed the lower of your vehicle manufacturer's towing rating or these limits.
No. The 24941 is a weight-carrying hitch only. Weight-distributing capability is not available for this model, as indicated by the 'X' in the weight-distributing row of the specifications table.
Required tools include: 7 mm socket, 13 mm socket with 6-inch extension, ratchet, torque wrench, Phillips head screwdriver, flat head screwdriver, plastic trim tools, utility knife, tape measure, marker, and safety glasses.
The average installation time for professional installers is 45 minutes. If you do not feel comfortable performing the installation yourself or need assistance, contact a professional installer.
Yes. Step 2 of the installation requires removing the bumper beam by using a 13 mm socket with extension to remove 6 flange nuts attaching the bumper beam to the end panel. The hitch is then sandwiched between the bumper beam and end panel before the fasteners are reinstalled.
Yes. Step 1 requires complete removal of the rear fascia and taillights to access the hitch mounting area. This involves removing multiple screws and plastic retainers, disconnecting taillight wiring, and carefully removing the plastic fascia. The fascia is then trimmed and reinstalled after hitch installation.
Yes. Step 6 requires permanently trimming the fascia to accommodate the hitch. The fascia must be measured, marked, and trimmed as shown in Figure 4, with cuts of 3-1/4 inches and 2-1/4 inches from the centerline of the bumper. This modification cannot be reversed.
No. The hitch uses existing holes and studs on the vehicle's end panel. The installation involves removing the bumper beam, positioning the hitch to align with existing studs, and reinstalling the existing 6 flange nuts. No drilling is required.
All fasteners must be tightened to 20 Lb.-Ft. (27 N·M) using a torque wrench. This applies to the 6 existing M8-1.25 flange nuts that attach the hitch to the end panel studs, 3 per side.
The fasteners should be left loose initially. Step 4 requires loosely reinstalling the 6 existing flange nuts onto the studs. Only after the hitch is properly positioned and aligned should all fasteners be tightened to 20 Lb.-Ft. (27 N·M) in Step 5.
The hitch uses 6 existing M8-1.25 flange nuts that are already on the vehicle's end panel studs. These are the original fasteners that previously held the bumper beam. No new fasteners are required; the existing nuts are reused.
The hitch must be sandwiched between the bumper beam and the end panel. Raise the hitch and bumper beam into position, aligning the hitch holes with the studs on the end panel. The hitch sits between these two components, with the bumper beam on the outside and the end panel on the inside.
The removal order is: (1) fascia screws and retainers (Step 1a-1d), (2) taillight screws (Step 1c), (3) fascia itself (Step 1e), then (4) the 6 bumper beam flange nuts (Step 2). This sequence provides access to the hitch mounting studs.
According to the manual, the taillight wiring colors are: red wire (top), yellow wire (center), and blue wire (bottom). When disconnecting or reconnecting the taillight wiring during fascia removal and reinstallation, ensure these connections are properly matched.
You have a choice. Step 1c states you may either unplug the wiring harness or remove the bulbs from the taillight housings. Either method allows you to safely remove the taillights during fascia removal.
Always wear safety glasses when installing the hitch. Observe safety precautions when working beneath the vehicle. Do not cut access or attachment holes with a torch. If the hitch is removed, plug all holes in the trunk pan or body panels to prevent water and exhaust fumes from entering the vehicle.
If the hitch is removed, plug all holes in the trunk pan or other body panels to prevent entry of water and exhaust fumes. A damaged hitch or ball must be removed and replaced immediately.
Check the hitch frequently, making sure all fasteners and the ball are properly tightened. Proper torque is essential to keep the hitch secure to the vehicle when towing.
Always wear your seatbelt. Slow down when towing and never exceed any posted speed limit. Load the trailer heavier in front. Do not exceed the lower of your vehicle manufacturer's rating or the hitch rating of 2000 lb GVWR / 200 lb tongue weight. If excessive sway occurs, take your foot off the gas pedal and hold the steering wheel steady—do not apply brakes or speed up.
The authorized drawbar kit is part number 3593, sold separately. The drawbar must be used in the RISE position only.
There are 5 screws holding the splash guard to the fascia on each side, for a total of 10 screws (5 per side). These are removed using a 7 mm socket in Step 1a.
There are 2 plastic retainers located at the bottom center of the fascia. These are removed using a flat head screwdriver in Step 1b.
There are 2 screws holding each taillight to the vehicle, for a total of 4 screws (2 per side). These Phillips head screws are removed in Step 1c and reinstalled in Step 7.
There are 2 screws holding the fascia to the vehicle, 1 per side, for a total of 2 screws. These Phillips head screws are removed in Step 1d.
There is 1 screw inside the rear wheel well on each side. This screw is removed using a 7 mm socket in Step 1a.
The fascia must be trimmed 3-1/4 inches and 2-1/4 inches from the centerline of the bumper, as shown in Figure 4. Measure from the centerline of the bumper, not from the fascia tabs, as the tabs are not centered on the vehicle.
The fascia tabs are not centered on the vehicle. Measuring from the tabs would result in incorrect trim locations. Instead, measure from the centerline of the bumper to ensure accurate and symmetrical trimming.
Yes, the 24941 is designed for 2016-current Chevrolet Spark models. Check the Cequent website for the most current application information.
Maximum gross trailer weight is 2000 lb (908 kg) and maximum tongue weight is 200 lb (90.8 kg). Do not exceed the lower of your vehicle manufacturer's rating or these limits.
You need a 7 mm socket, 13 mm socket with 6-inch extension, ratchet, torque wrench, Phillips and flat head screwdrivers, plastic trim tools, utility knife, tape measure, marker, and safety glasses.
Yes. The bumper beam must be removed, and the entire rear fascia and taillights must be removed to access the hitch mounting area. The fascia is trimmed and reinstalled after hitch installation.
No. The hitch uses existing holes and studs on the vehicle's end panel. Fascia trimming is required, but no drilling is needed.
Always wear your seatbelt, slow down when towing, never exceed posted speed limits, load the trailer heavier in front, and do not exceed 2000 lb GVWR or 200 lb tongue weight. If excessive sway occurs, ease off the gas and hold the steering wheel steady—do not brake or accelerate.
Check the hitch frequently to ensure all fasteners and the ball are properly tightened. If the hitch is removed, plug all holes to prevent water and exhaust fumes from entering the vehicle.
The T-Connector is a trailer wiring adapter that connects your vehicle's electrical system to a trailer. It allows you to control trailer lights (stop, turn, and tail lights) from your vehicle's existing taillight circuits. The system includes a black box control module, wire harness with color-coded wires (yellow, brown, green, white, and black), connectors, and a fuse holder for battery connection.
The kit includes: T-Connector adapter with yellow and brown wires, T-Connector adapter with green wire, black box control module, black 12 gauge wire, white wire with eyelet, yellow fuse holder with fuse, ring terminal, yellow butt connectors, double-sided tape, cable ties, and a screw for grounding. The 4-flat connector should be stored in the trunk when not in use.
The T-Connector is designed for vehicles with rear taillight housings that have connection points matching the T-Connector adapter ends. Installation requires access to the rear interior trim panels, taillight housings on both driver and passenger sides, and the vehicle battery. Consult your vehicle's owner's manual and the instruction sheet for compatibility confirmation before purchasing.
Required tools are: trim panel remover, drill with 3/32" drill bit, 1/4" socket, wire crimpers, wire cutters, Phillips head screwdriver, and test probe. You will also need a test light or trailer to verify the installation after completion.
Yes. You must disconnect the vehicle's negative (−) battery cable before connecting the fuse holder to the positive (+) battery terminal in step 8. This is a critical safety step to prevent electrical shock or short circuits during installation.
You must partially remove the rear interior trim panels on both the driver and passenger sides of the vehicle to access the taillight housings. You will also need to temporarily remove the rear threshold, cargo net, and cargo cover. It may be helpful to fold the rear seat forward for better access.
Starting on the driver's side, separate the vehicle's wiring connectors behind the taillight housing, being careful not to break the locking tabs. Attach both ends of the T-Connector containing the yellow and brown wires to the driver's side taillight housing. Ensure connectors are fully inserted with locking tabs in place. Then route the T-Connector containing the green wire below the threshold cover to the passenger's side taillight housing and repeat the connection process.
Locate a suitable grounding point on the driver's side near the taillight connectors. Drill a 3/32" hole at this location. Before drilling, verify what is behind the surface to avoid damage to the vehicle or personal injury. Do not drill into any exposed surfaces. Secure the white wire with the eyelet using the screw provided.
Mount the T-Connector black box on the driver's side using the double-sided tape provided. The black box should be positioned near the taillight connectors for convenient wire routing.
From inside the vehicle, connect the black 12 gauge wire and the black wire from the T-Connector black box using the supplied yellow butt connector. You have two routing options: (1) route the black wire through a grommet and along the exterior frame, or (2) follow the existing wiring along the thresholds into the engine compartment up to the battery. Avoid areas that may pinch or break the wire. If routing through a grommet and along the exterior, avoid hot pipes, heat shields, the fuel tank, or any other points that may pinch or break the wire.
Disconnect the vehicle's negative (−) battery cable first. Remove the fuse from the yellow fuse holder if not already removed. Cut the fuse holder wire, attach the ring terminal to the cut end, and secure it to the vehicle's positive (+) battery cable. Connect the other end of the fuse holder to the black 12 gauge wire using the yellow butt connector provided. Do not reconnect the negative battery cable until all other connections are complete.
Secure the remainder of the T-Connector harness with the cable ties provided to prevent damage, rattling, and being careful to avoid any areas that would pinch, cut, or melt the wire. After securing the harness, reinstall all plastic trim panels, threshold, storage covers, floor covering, and other items that were removed during installation, being careful not to pinch or cut the wires.
Do not exceed the lower of your vehicle manufacturer's rating or: maximum 2 stop/turn lights per side (4.2 amps total) or maximum tail lights (7.5 amps). Overloading the circuit can cause fires. Consult your vehicle's owner's manual and instruction sheet for additional information on electrical capacity.
All connections must be complete for the T-Connector to function properly. Test and verify the installation with a test light or by connecting an actual trailer once installed. For the initial test, reset the vehicle electrical system by temporarily removing the key from the ignition, then reinserting it. This ensures all circuits are properly initialized.
Store the 4-flat connector in the trunk area of your vehicle when not in use.
Wear safety glasses during installation. Read and follow all warnings and cautions printed on the tow vehicle's battery. Before drilling, verify what is behind any surface to avoid damage to the vehicle or personal injury. Do not drill into exposed surfaces. When routing wires, avoid hot pipes, heat shields, the fuel tank, or any other points that may pinch or break the wire. Ensure all connections are complete and properly seated before testing.
The T-Connector requires rear taillight housings with matching connection points, access to rear interior trim panels, and battery access. Consult your vehicle's owner's manual and instruction sheet to confirm compatibility before purchasing.
You need a trim panel remover, drill with 3/32" bit, 1/4" socket, wire crimpers, wire cutters, Phillips head screwdriver, test probe, and a test light or trailer for verification.
Yes. You must drill one 3/32" hole on the driver's side near the taillight connectors to secure the white grounding wire with an eyelet. Verify what is behind the surface before drilling to avoid damage.
Yes. You must disconnect the vehicle's negative battery cable before connecting the fuse holder to the positive battery terminal. This is required for safety.
Do not exceed 2 stop/turn lights per side (4.2 amps) or 7.5 amps for tail lights, whichever is lower than your vehicle manufacturer's rating. Overloading can cause fires.
Test with a test light or by connecting a trailer. Reset the vehicle electrical system by temporarily removing the key from the ignition. All connections must be complete for proper function.
Verify that all connections are complete and fully seated. Check that the T-Connector adapters are fully inserted into the taillight housings with locking tabs in place. Ensure the white grounding wire is securely fastened with the eyelet. Confirm the black wire is properly connected to the battery positive terminal through the fuse holder. Reset the vehicle electrical system by temporarily removing the key from the ignition. Test with a test light or trailer. If still not working, check that the fuse in the yellow fuse holder is not blown.
Ensure you are not breaking or bending the locking tabs on either the vehicle's connectors or the T-Connector adapters. The locking tabs must be intact and properly aligned for full insertion. Gently push the connectors together until they are fully seated and the locking tabs click into place. If the connectors still do not seat, inspect both the vehicle's taillight connectors and the T-Connector adapters for damage or debris, and clean if necessary.
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